vanko25

Deeper bass note will be lush!
 
Agree about facebook.  Lots of repeat questions and no continuity.  What is wrong with forums?  You get to know people.

I have the Eibach spacers too on my stock aero wheels and have the Reyland kit. 
Ran them for years with no issues even when driven hard. 
Bought mine from Autodoc as that was the cheapest place. 

Most of us are running the Reyland AP Racing Kit. 
I had mine for 2 years now on my TD Turbo car and had zero issues with them. 
Been running the car on track with zero fade. 

Most of us are running the Reyland AP Racing Kit. 
I had mine for 2 years now on my TD Turbo car and had zero issues with them. 
Been running the car on track with zero fade. 

The Exedy Stage 1 clutch is remarkably fuss-free.  The biting point for me is a touch lower in the pedal travel than before (my stock clutch was finished) and the quality of bite is smooth but more defined, meaning it's been useful practising matching speeds as I do when changing down.  Most importantly, the action is smooth and the pedal is no heavier to operate than stock.  It's as good a performance upgrade as I could hope for, and now I can lay down all the torque at my disposal.

I know it's not BRZ or even GT86, but I am so pleased with this work that's been done I wanted to show it off and give a shout out to Revolve Automotive and I know there's fellow detailing nerds like me on here too. If you're in the North and thinking of getting some paint correction and protection, look no further. Usually I like to get my hands dirty when it comes to keeping my car clean, but sometimes a job needs indoor space and professional skills, way beyond my own. I've known Paul at Revolve for a few years via a 350z club and a while back he struck out to follow his passion for detailing. I have been watching his work online ever since. After letting him practice on lesser marques like Maserati, Aston Martin and Ferrari, I've been looking forward to having the right job to send his way. I wasn't expecting perfect paint when I purchased on a 6 year old black car, but one of my first visits to the petrol station revealed just how bad things were.

 
As well as correcting this horrorshow, I also booked in to have some protection applied and a "little" job that's been on my list for a while. I've never really liked the black badges. First the easy bit.

Then the template.

All done.

 
I'm super pleased with the result. I know chrome is not for everyone, but it is literally the only non-black part of the whole car, so I think it's not too bling. The spacing and alignment are absolutely spot on.
Onto the paint. As you can see, he had his work cut out. 

 
But he was more than match for the hard Porsche paint. Two stages of correction has given it a beautiful depth, removed all the minor marks and a lot of the big ones too. Where they've not been eliminated, they've been softened so much as to make them almost unnoticeable.


 
 
Also the wheels came off for some love and protection on them and the callipers too.

He cleansed the leather and alcantara, leaving a layer of protection inside and a nice little signature that my ass has since dealt with.

He also stocked me up on the good stuff from Envy. I am a big fan of all the Envy products I have used to date, not tried Iron Awe yet so looking forward to that.

As well as the Envy gear, I left with some SC-MIST to keep the ceramic protection topped up. As well as making her look almost perfect, Paul's done his best to lock it in with a couple of layers of Envy Futureproof+. I'm impressed just by the gloss and I hope I'll be the same for many months to come, perhaps even years.
 
After all that, now for the glamour. She came up alright.



 
Looking ever better outside in the sunshine.





 
Delighted doesn't come close to how pleased I am with the outcome. From following Revolve Automotive on Facebook for years, I had really high expectations but Paul's manage to surpass them with his skill. It's almost a different colour, much more like the 'Jet' black that Porsche call this shade. On top of doing amazing work on the car, the process of booking in, discussing what work was needed, talking through options for coatings, agreeing a price and even throwing in a lovable courtesy car - the whole service was superb and I'm really, really pleased. If you want to do something special for your pride & joy, this is a pretty good option. I'd be taking the BRZ over if it wasn't for the fact it needs paint on the front bumper and the Cayman has blown my budget for a few months. On top of this fantastic work, it's recently been in for retrofit of cruise control, had new rubber all round and a minor oil leak sorting. The good thing is, all the interesting mods I might usually think to do, involve adding bits from it's bigger GT brothers - which makes them so expensive I'm not even entertaining the idea 

Managed to get the last two major Verus Pieces wrapped up over the last few days
I tackled the bonnet vents first while I waiting on a few parts to arrive for the rear wing install. It’s always a little tense cutting into body panels so I must have checked my dimensions about 5 times before the drill and cutting disc were unleashed.   

 
Once I had the holes cut out I taped up on both sides and sprayed all the cut edges just to seal them up and stop any aluminum corrosion taking hold.

After all the messing about the vents were finally bolted in, safe to say the front of the car no longer looks stock!


With the vents completed I tackled the rear wing install, I knew I was going to have to make some small alterations as I have a full fibreglass ducktail that covers the entire bootlid, and the Verus kit is designed to fit onto  a standard bootlid. However funnily enough the Verus wing is designed to work with a ducktail and the profile of the wing should nicely tie in with it.
In order to get it to work I need to drill through the various layers of fibreglass and bootlid steel and use some extended aluminium spacers inside the boot with longer stainless steel bolts. The wing then uses a stainless steel backing plate on the inside and aluminium uprights on the outside to ensure there is no flex, which is helped by the fact the uprights are right out on the edge of the bootlid. A jacking nut is also incorporated that you adjust so that it is in contact with the OEM boot hinge stopper to further ensure no flexing.

When all was installed it does seem very effective, and ties in nicely with the ducktail like I hoped



 

I think I must be going mad, but it was reassuring to know I was not the only one when my 6am alarm went off this morning. Time for another Sunday drive. This time I had Richard from RRG Macc' out with me in their black GR Yaris demonstrator, Mark in my old GT86 along with his friend from work in a Golf GTI. As we headed out on the M56 from Manchester Airport, in the pouring rain and held a steady speed in all the standing water that was there, I pondered to myself, that this is absolute madness. As it transpired the GR Yaris took it in its stride, though Mark in the GT86 was having a few wake up calls trying to drive in a straight line. As we neared our rendezvous with Richard, I was seriously reconsidering why I had had such a bright idea to go out in these conditions. It was certainly hardcore. I reassured the convoy that things would improve as we headed down the A49 as it we emerged into daylight. I'd also pointed out that there would be no heroics and reminded all to take it easy.
 
As it turns out things did get better as we neared Whitchurch McDonald's for our breakfast stop, though it was all somewhat relative. Breakfast helped though and it when off in the direction of Market Drayton for the Eccleshall Loop. I had my car in track mode, stability on considering the conditions. My car felt so surefooted which was reassuring and I found I could launch it out of the corners, getting on the power earlier than I felt would have been reasonable. Mark at the back in my old GT86, was having a whole different kind of fun! To be fair, there was no way this was ever going to be more than a brisk drive in places and I still have to consider that I haven't yet driven my car in the dry. This car does give you confidence though. Traction is absolute and though I had the front wheels perhaps edging into clawing their way into the tarmac, it was nearly always surprising in the manner in which the car could be fired through the apex and just tear down the next straight. I would normally of course be looking for some really fast long radius bends, where I could properly load up the chassis, but in today's conditions this was neither the time or the place and caution as they say wins.
 
After losing Mark and his friend when they went the wrong way when we joined the M6 it was just the two GR Yaris for the drive back to Wilmslow. We took the back roads of course though inevitably there was the odd horse box and duffer along the way. Now we were two cars rather than four overtaking was a lot easier. There were a couple of times, when I went to overtake one car, only to think I may as well take the next as well. Getting to 6K rpm now I've got 500 miles on the clock, you can really make the car fly. The jet like sound from the exhaust as the revs climb to six thousand, does a bit addictive I admit.
 
Overall in these difficult times where going out for a drive is about all you can, do much fun was had. So much so that my friend from Toyota is now buying his own GR Yaris and it only took a day with the demonstrator for him to do that! This car does impress. I am now contemplating what it might be like come warm and dry roads. My alarm for the summer on a Sunday is going to be very early indeed! 
 

 

 

When you get the new oil in and the new oil filter installed, prime the oil system by pressing the clutch and accelerator pedals all the way. 
That kills the spark and let the engine crank for as long as you need it to get the oil through the engine. 

So finally over the weekend I got the new engine to fire up. When I initially tried to start the engine on its base map I just couldn’t get it to start. I checked over everything and got my tuner logged on remotely and we began to trouble-shoot. I initially thought maybe the new fuel pump was acting up but the newly installed pressure sensor was showing good pressure (paying for itself already!)
 
The issue was manifesting as stall on cranking which we thought was maybe a lack of cranking amps from the battery, which to be fair we had stressed while trying to trouble shoot. I really couldn’t understand where the issue was coming from but I had my suspicion that the battery was probably not the issue.
 
Then by chance while researching the issue on-line I came across this article and it all started to sound too familiar. https://www.picoauto.com/library/cas...gine-non-start
 
Just to be sure I dug out some photos I’d taken during assembly and sure enough I could tell I had made the same mistake when setting the timing. And it appears I’m not the first to have done it either.
 
Having gone through the OEM manual again I can see exactly how I made the mistake, luckily when you do make this mistake you essentially set the right bank 180Deg out of phase so there is no valve interference but it does mean the front cover has to come off. In the end I opted to strip the front off the car and do it in situ.
 

 
Once the timing was sorted the engine fired up first turn of the key. I haven’t run it up to temperature yet as it will be broken in on the dyno, so I can’t tell how many oil leaks I have yet....but fingers crossed!
 
Once that was completed I spent a bit of time configuring the CANBUS signals between the Motec ECU and AIM dash. Currently I have the oil pressure sensor routed directly to the AIM dash to control the Accumsump but I plan to re-wire it via the Motec to utilise the inbuilt rev cut, then relay the signal over CANBUS to the AIM dash.
 
As the AIM Dash is receiving two CANBUS signals (ECU, and OEM Chassis CAN) but it can only run its inbuilt template on one channel I’ve had to remap the OEM chassis signals on the second channel. It’s quiet simple to do once you know the addresses etc. The info might be useful to other 86 owners so the signals I’ve mapped are below. I’ve only mapped these few as they are the main ones I’m after.
 

 
So that’s it for now, my final part still hasn’t arrived yet but as soon as lockdown is lifted it will be off for dyno tuning.

The different shape is only true for the BRZs. 
The facelift 86s use the same size as the pre facelift. 
I think Subaru did that so they can fit a standard unit they were having on the shelf. 
All cars come to the UK with no head units. The HU and the alarm are being installed before the car is delivered to the customer. 

I've followed him for years until recently and in that case it's a bit different as Chris from BIFB has often only fit fake v1 kits to his BRZ's which are considerably easier to fit than the v2/v3 and the only real Rocket bunny kit he's used is the Datsun 240z kit which are known to be bad on the rear arch areas as they were likely modelled off a bent car.
DedicationBlog Content is better for an insight in to tthe 86 as BIFB tends to be more on the bodge-job side of things atleast in his earlier content.

I can confirm that the Reyland kit fits under 18x7.5 ET46 Aero wheels with no problem. 
It also fits under the STI space saver wheel too. 
Shouldn't have problems undner 18x8"

As you can tell it's been full steam ahead on the 86 with the recent goings on and i've managed to get another big step finished at the end of last week just before my birthday - Making the first big cuts on the car and installing the front Arches!     It was a big step to get at the car with the angry tools but it went by so quickly and came out quite well. You'll see from the video and pictures just how much I decided to cut away but what isn't quite shown is how many times I went back to tidy up the cuts. So far i'm just going around the car to get the initial cuts sorted, rust proofed and the arches fitted with the supplied self tapping screws (yes, really!) before i eventually go around the whole car once again for a second revision pass where i'll remove the panels, clean up any rough cuts, better rust-proof the affected areas with a proper sanding back, primer and underseal as well as shaving down any high spots on the Rocket bunny panels that can lead to a nicer smoother fit and finish on the kit overall when they're resolved and of course drill out the holes made by the screws using them as guides for my Rubber Well-nuts and bolts!   Below is the latest youtube video showing off the whole process:   https://youtu.be/2zdG1lK-3uQ   And some follow up pictures!  

If the performance pack wheels are 7.5J and stock are 7J you might nee to get some spacers i.e. 10mm for them to fit over the brakes. 
Regarding the space saver, WRX STi 17 inch one fits over my Reyland BBK so should fit the brembos as they are more or less similar to the ones on the STi. 

Get the Reyland AP four pot 330mm kit. £1500. Brilliant for the money. Had it on for two years and 40K miles now, still on original pads and discs. 

I don't know about the stock cat but with a sports cat mine is making 270hp with TD Turbo Stage 1. 
Had tried the stock cat in place of the sports cat and the car is quieter and more environmentally friendly but so sluggish so I have put the sports cat back in place. 
 

Follow-up!
Tapered bolts are for the injector ecu, standard bolts for coils, one short bolt for the fuel rail cover.
One of my coil pack cables wasn't quite clicked in it seems, as when I tweaked it, it clicked. Cleared the code on the ecu and the car got back into the mood. Coil C is rear most on the UK driver's side.

Adi, 
If there is a part number for that bush it will be on this graph. 
https://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist.php?maker=toyota&type=264110&cartype=20&fig=4101
Edit: Look at the bottom of the image. There is a comment that the front bush is not coming separately. At least not from the OEM. 

In the email it said it has to be printed. But I guess you can show it on your phone. 

@Luke
 
The engine was sold to Jordan as an early engine which has the thick rods but it turned out is a later engine with thinner rods, hence the failure when got boosted. 

I will be up for this. It will make a nice trip south. 
We will probably drive down on Saturday, stay for the night and join you on Sunday. 

Here's the weight of the Reyland setup - taken from the AP Racing website
CP9200 Calipers without pads & brackets: 2.43kg
330mm x 28mm AP Racing brake rotor (Not including the hat/bell): 5.94kg

@Varelco you could find stock brakes weight on the ft86 forum and will be able tell you how much the CP9200 weigh hopefully this or next week. Reyland just dispatched my kit. 
 
BTW I asked Reyland to add the kit on eBay because I was not comfortable giving my card details over the phone and they did. There are another 3 sets available on eBay if anyone is interested. 

Just ordered my Reyland kit in red. Most likely I will get Gary to fit it while the car is with RRG for the recall in May. 
Thanks to @will300 for the comprehensive pros and cons list. That the was the final push to say the Reyland kit is the right one for me.