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Adi

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Adi last won the day on January 27 2020

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About Adi

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London
  • Colour Car
    Grey

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  1. Adi

    Clutch pedal adjustment

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54RrACeyjCA Done this just now, very easy to do. So far the clutch action feels much better.
  2. Is this still available ?
  3. Adi

    What could the noise be?

    I've got the whistle too after having the car washed. The garage I took it to could not find an exhaust leak. They think it may be intake leak.
  4. Adi

    What could the noise be?

    Did you guys ever figured it out? I have a similar issue.
  5. Hi, Did you solve the issue ? Thank You.
  6. Just talked to the garage again, they tested the ball joints and everything and said they can't see any issue. They believe car is perfectly safe to drive. One more thing they can do without replacing any part is to drop and refit the suspension, hopefully this will cure it.
  7. Lauren, you are correct. Thank you. Not sure these guys can isolate it, and most other places are closed. There is no play anywhere when the car is on the ramp. Wheel has to be loaded and weight shifting. Heard similar story from someone with an Audi, went to many garages and dealerships until one mechanic decided to replace the ball joint and fixed it. So I either find a damn good mechanic - which is not easy now, at least within N. London area, or I try replacing parts and hope one of them is the culprit :( How would you test for the drop links / ARB ?
  8. Hi Lauren, I think it may the bushes or the ball joint. There is some vibration in the wheel but also in the chasis and pedals, usually accompanied by a springy clunk / pop sound when moving at very low speed. Less strong at high speed. It is stronger when moving on, accelerating or breaking. I took it to a local shop, they looked at everything, even changed the wheel bearings, but found nothing while on the ramp. It also seems to be less noticeable when car is cold, and it needs the front wheels to be loaded and have some weight shifting movement. They think may be may be something to do with the front lower arm.
  9. Anyone has a set of OEM or otherwise, new or used front lower arm? Or at least the RH (driver side) one ? I may have the ball-joint or bushes going on mine, most likely the RH one. Cheers.
  10. Adi

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    I had the Ohlins MP20 on my previous 2014 GT86 with the 30/40 springs, and have the MP21 on my current 2016 GT86 with the 50/50 springs and the Ohlins (solid) top mounts. My experience with the 30/40 spring was similar to yours, and lost the rear at the track a couple of times quite unexpectedly because of not enough travel at the back. Luckly I recovered both times. The car was lowered to Ohlins recommendations, about 20mm in front and 15mm back. With the 50/50 springs and 2' of camber at the back I have a quite a hard time getting the rear loose, and I also feel it long before it happens. But I also did not lower the car, I kept it stock height. If I were in your shoes I would give the 50/50 springs a try.
  11. I think they will fit, especially with et38. If you want to be sure you can write to OZ and ask them. I sent them this letter, and they got back to me in 48 hours: To: info@ozracing.com Dear Sir/Madam I would like to know if your wheel (put your own wheel spec here) can clear these Big Break Kit calipers on a Toyota GT86. I am giving bellow links to the templates for these brake systems: 1. Stop Tech 328x28: https://www.apcautotech.com/APCAutoTech/media/APCAutoTech/Files/WheelFitment/98-827-2430-01_FP.pdf 2. Essex AP Sprint Kit: https://www.essexparts.com/storage/wysiwyg/FT86_CP8350-300_front_wheel_template.pdf Thank you very much, .....
  12. I had the Essex AP kit. It's not worth it. Unless you are a race/track only car, focused on shaving the last 10th of a second from your timing, forget about it. Besides no dust boots and being expensive to import: - It squeals like crazy when coming to a stop on normal road, regardless of what pads you use, period. - It has less mass than other kits, therefore it will get hotter. You need high temp race pads to use with it. If you are using hybrid track/road pads (like DS2500) it will lead to "warping", i.e. pad deposits unevenly stuck to the disk, and require resurfacing. Also pads last less than you'd expect. I don't have experience with Reyland, but I had very good experience with the StopTech BBK , which has been very reliable. Done about 18 Track days and 14 airfield training days on them. Great quality, plug and play, never had a problem, much better experience than the Essex kit. Price-wise it comes about the same as Reyland.
  13. My rear differential assembly with an m-factory 4.67 final drive and Super-Pro outrigger bushes. The diff is from my 2016 car and has about 35k miles on it. It was installed by Fensport and has been on for only 10k miles. https://www.fensport.co.uk/…/m-factory-4-67-final-drive-gt8… Flawless operation,the car pulls much harder than stock in all gears. You will be at 500rpm more in each gear than the oem diff at the same speed. The diff has Superpro bushes up-front (also called the outrigger or pinion diff bushes). This makes the car and shifting feel super connected, you feel and hear everything the diff and transmission do. The trade-off is that you will have to shift more often since the gears become shorter and it will increase your NVH (mostly because of the bushes, and the whine of the diff above 72mph because of semi-straightl gears) but if you read so far, you already have a louder exhaust and are into the race car feel anyway . £685 - this is a good price considering that the labor cost plus the cost of the final drive would be around the 1300 mark, and now you also get to you keep your current diff to sell or to put it back to stock later. Collection only (High Barnet - North London) or you arrange for shipping. Weight = 50Kg.
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