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  1. Adi

    Recommendations on brake pads?

    Stoptech has replacement disks and with their 309 Sport Pads they were quite decent for both road and track when I started tracking the car. There is a set with both front and rear disks, pads, and SS brake lines for something like 660 GBP https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/brakes/brake-discs/stoptech-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz-13-15-subaru-impreza-wrx-08-14-front-and-rear-drilled-sport-kit.html They held well for about 18 track days, last 12 being with instructor full day pushing it to the limit constantly, needing new front pads every 2 track days (rears last forever).. Went to BBK in front after that. Still keeping same config in the rear - doing totally fine - just new pads once a year.
  2. Been doing it for 2 years now, in conjunction with about 10 Car Limits handling days per year. I wish it was all fun, but buying new tyres (PS4) every 4 month, having full service (engine, tranny, diff, brake flush) and new front pads every 2-3 month, gets a little tiring sometimes. Not counting the cost of track days and full day instruction (which is worth every penny imho). And the more you learn, the more you realize how much more there is to learn (and how much you forgotten since the last session). Can be a bit discouraging sometimes. But the highs are pretty high too when things come out right.
  3. I don't think ABS was engaging, not in the usual way at least., the pedal just sags for half an inch but pressure is still controllable, I don't feel loss of braking power. Everything feels normal except for the bit of sagging in the middle. Again this is when I'm standing on the pedal, braking late and hard after a long straight, and I am still going in a straight line, slowing down from 100+ to 35. It feels like some pressure is released somewhere (feeling is hydraulic/progressive, not abrupt), but no vibration or rock-hard pedal. While my ABS was still ON, I was in Pedal Dance mode otherwise.
  4. Thanks guys, I really appreciate it. I'll look into some Ti shims and better quality pads (Pagid RS29 )and see what happens. @Sentinal187 I will try refreshing the fluid by bleeding it and rear braided lines. Cheers!
  5. Around 20 track days per year (2/month). Yes, Millers dot 4 300 I have been told to brake later and harder, and I do tend to stay on the brakes a bit longer than my instructor likes it, so I see your point. Still, it feels like my brake pedal has 2 modes of operation. 1) If I am light on them they don't fade. Ever. 2) If I am hard on them, like when I do brake later and harder, there is the initial application (I can even stomp on them, they will be firm), and then they compress. I don't experience any 'fade' per se in braking power. It's just the pedal "compresses" - soft hydraulic feeling of lowering for about half an inch - after one or 2 seconds if I stand on it. Braking power still there.
  6. I don't feel a drop in braking power but rather a softening of the pedal, that feels almost hydraulic (like when you release the valve of a hydraulic jack stand). I might have fluid fade rather than pad fade.
  7. Car is daily driver, no issues on road. 20min sessions on track.
  8. So I take it you guys think it is most likely brake fade from pads overheating, rather than a bad MC or anything else ? Would the pedal go down if the brake pad was overheating?
  9. Stopetch sport pads in the rear, with stock caliper, OEM rubber lines, and Stoptech uprated disks. BBK installed and liquid flush in December with Stoptechs. Had a flush and EBC yellow pads installed in April. Had pads changed again to new Stoptechs in June, nu flush, still doing it. I've got a Master Cylinder brace also, and brake ducts.
  10. Was wondering if anyone experienced this. Mostly happens on track, I brake hard at the end of a straight before a hairpin (think hairpin at bedford at the end of the second straight, after the 1km straight - which is a very hard braking zone, from 100+mph to 35-ish, ), The brake pedal is quite firm for the first 1-2 seconds, but then the pedal goes down slowly, almost like the brakepads became wooly and compressed 50% or something loosing pressure somewhere. It does not go all the way to the floor, but significant enough to feel it softening. It does not seem to affect the braking itself, can still control the slow down, and then trail brake, and it is fine for the next corner. I also never felt unsafe, since the actual braking was not affected, but weird feeling to have the pedal go soft in the middle like that when held under pressure for a bit longer. Again this only happens when I'm really standing on the brakes, 100% pressure, after at least 1 or 2 seconds, not right away. I've got BBK in fornt (Stoptech) and stock calipers in the rear. Stainles lines in front. rubber ones in the rear. I had the pads changed not too long ago and brakes bled. Brake fluid is Millers racing fluid dot 4. Had this happen both with EBC Yellows and Stoptech Sport pads Any ideas ?
  11. Adi

    Big brake kit time?

    @VAD17 Not just with FI, but even on NA, once your driving improves same will happen. Once I started instruction, I went through pads much faster. 3-4 track days on DS2500, EBC Yellows, Stoptech Sports. (I've got the Stoptech BBK and Velox brake ducts but otherwise completely stock power). I will try Pagid RS29 next. They are supposed to last longer and still be very good. Or just drive slow : P .
  12. What tune did you use for this?
  13. Adi

    Rear Caliper Options

    You don't need rear BBK. Been doing 20 track days and about 15 Car Limits days last year, and the rears still had about 1/3 left. I did get the StopTech uprated OEM disk replacements and their Sport pads, but still much cheaper than BBK. Fensport race car (a real monster) has the same configuration for the rears. If they didn't bother with BBK in the back at 400+ hp, , 19" wheels, and big semi-slicks ... I have a hard time finding a good reason to do it.
  14. I replaced the diff bushes with the Superpro Poly ones (not the inserts but full replacement). I also have the subframe inserts. The increase in the NVH is there. Same noise as the transmission mount poly bushing which I had on my other car, but the change in how the car feels is 100 times better. For the first time in an 86 I had this feeling of the rear being really solid, like being in a 911 or Lotus. Every throttle input is felt simultaneously in the lower back, no squating, almost like my back is connected to the chassis. It took the garage about 3 hours to do it, which is more than the inserts would have taken, but I'm happy with it more than with the inserts I tried before (just the rear ones).
  15. Adi

    wheel nuts

    I've got an OEM set with locking nuts and key also from my original wheels. £15