KAS

It’s been a while since I’ve update this thread, and that’s mostly as the car has been running without fault, the only issue that’s been niggling for the last while is a crunchy shift on 2nd gear, something that becomes audibly worse as gearbox temperatures rise during a session on track.
I was pretty sure the issue was a worn synchro even through the gearbox already had carbon synchros installed by PAR Engineering when the straight cut gearset was originally installed by them. I intended on farming out the job of rebuilding the gearbox but pickings are slim here in Ireland and I couldn’t find anyone that instilled any confidence when I spoke to them so decided I’d just go ahead and do it myself.
The patient on the operating table




 
For the most part the gear sets, shafts and synchros were in good order with the exception of 2nd gear. Unfortunately it appears the carbon synchro had delaminated and in turn the poor alignment had pretty much damaged all the engagement teeth on the gear itself. Its hard to see from the photos but the damage was sufficient to warrant a new 2nd gear from PAR Engineering which took a number of weeks to arrive.
Damaged 2nd Gear

 

Once the new 2nd gear arrived it was time to put it all back together


 

Thankfully with that lot completed and a couple of track-days since reinstall under my belt I can say that 2nd gear changes are now butter smooth 

I'd personally take it to fensport or Abbey. With a company that has an excellent reputation and experience with ecutek. No disrespect to your friend or his company

Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk

It’s the wire that comes off the handbrake switch.

Is this for a (pioneer) stereo install? You can buy parking brake sensor bypasses for about £15 and save yourself from having to splice in to factory wiring

I only run them in winter, and only have one pretty rubbish photo, sorry lol. I’m back on my 18s now

I second varelco. I use 15mm eibach bolt on spacers when I run stock wheels.
 
If you run 6mm spacers you will need to replace your wheels studs with longer ones which is quite involved.
 
15mm spacers on stock wheels look much better. Fitting is easy although torquing the bolts on the front spacers is a bit of a pain.
 
Just remember that 50miles after first fitting the bolt on spacers, you need to take the wheels off and check/retorque the spacer nuts. Then 50miles after that check/retorque the wheel nuts.

Finally got round to doing lol
 
Found some info about the coating here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/438430-ported-throttle-body-plate-sealant-2.html
 
 
This is what is left of “goop” on the back of the throttle body which my initial “cleaning” missed. Looks like it was brushed on. Similar moly paste is £60 a tin, so I went with the spray on moly dry lube by CRC which ended up being quite a thin layer despite a few coats
 

 
Masked up
 

 
Sprayed on front and back, I opened the valve to spray on the circumference of it too
 

 
Cured for three hours and then lightly buffed
 

 
 
Reconnected the battery, and did the relearn procedure as before.
 
Results: the Rev hang has gone when shifting gears so I’m happy.
 
But I still feel like the engine braking isn’t immediate when I let off the throttle, it very smoothly transitions to engine braking - I don’t know if that’s normal so I might have to book a test drive of another 86 I could be used to my KTM single cylinder strong ass engine braking tho lol
 
 
Lesson 1: don’t clean your throttle body with carb cleaner. I think there’s actually a couple of brands who make proper throttle body cleaning spray which don’t remove the molybdenum coating.
 
I reckon a quick wipe with a dry rag would’ve removed the tiny bit of dirt that had accumulated at the bottom of the valve. And that’s lesson 2: don’t go straight for the big guns when cleaning, use the least aggressive method first

What time stamp should we hear the noise?

How old is the car and are there any mods?

Try checking the exhaust or heat shields for rubbing.

Are the diff bushings done up tight?

Are the brake pads sticking at all?

Is the squeak from the seat belt socket?


I can’t really tell what the noise is so I’m just throwing some ideas out lol

Don’t use copper grease. Use proper disc brake grease like cera-tec. The repair manual states “Lithium Soap Base Glycol Grease”

If you buy the bush and shin kit from toyota it comes with the grease you need to use.

I’ve always found copper grease attracts dirt and can harden over time. Not recommended for abs either I think.

The parts guy at toyota said he never sells them so I doubt many people actually do renew them bolts.

I’m sure my PFC or EBC pads instructions said not to file the pads, and to file the carrier instead. But I know what you mean, the paint isn’t exactly uniform on the pads.

Last time I tried to stops the squeaks, I had to file the stock pads to stop them from sticking coz rust had bubbled up under the paint. All fun and games lol

@Mike 
Here some of my observations of the various kits - bare in mind I thought about this for 18 months before committing to the Reyland kit.
I actually ordered but then cancelled both the Essex AP Racing Sprint kit and the Godspeed AP kit, before settling on the Reyland kit, this was after speaking with @Ade and one of the technical team at AP Racing.
These are for the approx 330mm kits (355mm+ kits have different requirements) 
Reyland - AP Kit:
Pro's:
AP Caliper - CP9200 (2 piece aluminum body)  4 Pistons Dust Boots - Made by Brembo  Perfect for Street and track Common Pad Size 330mm x 28mm discs - 2 piece Good thermal capacity High quality caliper by premium brake manufacturer.  Keeps stock brake bias Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs Various disc options - Either bolted or floating brake disc hat/bell. AP or Reyland disc's.  Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Latest design of caliper by AP Racing - including new paint finish Used by various members of the community - with extensive track use Con's:
Reasonably expensive Custom made brackets, which you need to shim to get perfect fitment Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer.  
Godspeed - Brembo's:
Pro's: 
Brembo caliper 4 piston Dust boots 330 x 28 discs 2 piece discs Cheap Con's: 
Unknown caliper model Unknown caliper material Unknown piston sizes - not sure what effect this will have on brake bias Unknown pad size No brake lines included  
Godspeed - AP Kit:
Pro's:
AP Caliper - CP9040 (2 piece aluminum body)  Dust Boots - Made by Brembo  Common Pad Size Good thermal capacity High quality caliper by premium brake manufacturer.  Latest design of caliper by AP Racing - including new paint finish Con's
Reasonably expensive Caliper designed for a 362mm disc - not 330mm as included Caliper designed for a 32mm thick disc - not 30mm as included Ø330mm disc in this caliper will leave a fairly large gap between the discs OD and the calipers disc pathway and this gap can be prone to collecting road debris. 6 pistons - overkill  No brake lines included  
K-Sport: 
Pro's:
Cheap Used by various members of the community - with extensive track use Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs 330mm x 32mm? disc - 2 piece Dust boots Perfect for Street and track Con's
8 pistons Unknown piston sizes - not sure what effect this will have on brake bias Unknown pad size Unknown replacement disc price Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer.  
STi Brembo's - Used on Subaru Impreza WRX STi:
Pro's:
Cheap Used by various members of the community - with extensive track use Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs 326mm x 30mm disc Various disc options Common pad size Dust boots 4 pistons Con's
Shifts brake bias forward massively Steel calipers - heavy Bleed nipples need swapping - i.e. caliper refurb before fitment Not a complete kit Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer. Only available second hand  
RR Racing (Wilwood😞
Pro's:
Cheap Wilwood caliper Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs 326mm x 30mm disc - STi disc's so cheap replacements Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Con's
6 pistons  no dust boots Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer. Limited pad selection Only available from the US Moves brake bias forward  
Essex Parts - AP Racing Sprint Kit:
Pro's:
AP Caliper - CP8350  4 Pistons Perfect for Track Use Common Pad Size 2 piece discs Extremely light High quality caliper by premium brake manufacturer.  Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Keeps stock brake bias Used by various members of the community - with extensive track use Con's:
Expensive 299x32mm disc's - Can have some thermal issues Only available from the US Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer. No dust boots Not a daily driver friendly caliper  
AP Racing Genuine kit:
Pro's:
AP Caliper - CP6600 (2 piece aluminum body)  4 Pistons Dust Boots Perfect for Street and track Keeps stock brake bias Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs Clear's the majority of 17" wheels - including stock wheels Con's:
Very Expensive 26mm thick discs Limited pad options Limited disc options Uses older AP caliper  
Stoptech ST40:
Pro's:
Stoptech ST40 caliper 4 Pistons Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs 328mm x 28mm disc - 2 piece Dust boots Perfect for Street and track Con's
Expensive Can't 100% confirm piston sizes Limited pad replacement options Unknown replacement disc cost Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer.  

There's someone selling one on the "UK GT86 & BRZ cars & parts for sale" facebook page dude.  Think he's in Newcastle as well

Welcome!  What do you drive in the TSS?

Shims!  That's the word lol
 
Glad its pretty much sorted for you!

I've done some data logs on the intake temps. With just the open HKS intake I was seeing intake temps in excess of 40° above ambient. With the box and wrapping I was seeing 3-7° above ambient and with the box, wrapping and scoop I was seeing ambient to 2° above ambient even after 20/25 minute sessions on track. Certainly seems quite effective. 

Where do you suppose the energy comes from that makes the post-turbo air charge hot? It's proportionate to the temperature of the air coming into the turbo. Aside from a bit of soak from the impeller itself, it's mainly the compression that increases the temperature - see ideal gas law. The higher the starting temperature the more energy in the resulting compressed air,  and the more effort it takes to compress. The intercooler can take 10 degrees or more out of the intake charge, but I don't believe the cooling efficiency increases with temperature as much as the heat of compression does.
That's before you take into account the practical effects of a car that heatsoaks at idle and has to drain the engine bay of hot air, instead of just the intake volume. I've lost count of how many times I've seen people complaining about wobbly idles and erratic fuelling from replacing their intakes and filter boxes. Good air supply matters! At least to a point. NA ram-scoops have a tiny effect, and most cold air induction kits trade weather resilience for marginal improvements over OEM offerings.

Slick work Tommy - I think I’ll copy your mic idea!

I bought the handbrake cable bypass mod off amazon, because you can’t just earth the green wire to bring up the full menus on my headunit and I don’t like the idea of splicing oem wiring.

Check all this wiring I’ve got to work with for the Pioneer AVH-Z9100 and backup camera, there’s more loom already in the dash from the OEM Audio+ system

Potentially have some interesting results if they give enough of a kick! Do you have a sub fitted?

I’ve got the OEM Audio+ install, the sub is fine but I feel like there’s not enough low-mid range kick from the components.

I know the doors aren’t sealed the best so they’re gonna limit performance.

Keen to see how you get on!

I think this is probably the right place for a quick post...
While I was enjoying family summer holidays, my 2017 auto GT86 had a trip to Warrington to visit @Mike@TD.co.uk 
After getting TD's NA package last December FI "upgrade" was always a consideration and I decided not to wait much longer a jump on an FI wagon.
In addition to TD turbo kit upgrade I have opted for "super silent" 2nd decat, "super resonated" cat back and screamer pipe re-circulated into downpipe - the idea being that the car should stay quiet and be allowed on all major UK track days, with Bedford being close and Thruxton on the target list... Well, Mike managed to exceed my expectations here - its only 1-2 db higher, just the exhaust tone is somewhat deeper/ more mature. Don't get me wrong, I do like the growl of a V6 or a V8, but I wanted to keep it "neighbours and track friendly" (Mike did say though its a bit too quiet for his liking, but I've got exactly what I was after).
The car now makes just over 281HP with 0.4 bars, with over 200 FtLb of torque after 4k.
Now, first impression after 3 days of driving and just over 320 miles:
In "normal" street driving, because it stays quiet you barely notice it has FI, it does feel "livelier" but you can drive it just like before (I don't think my Mrs would even notice on city/ daily routes), but as soon as come on the main road or just push the throttle beyond 3k revs you just hear a gentle whistle, somewhat deeper growl and... few seconds later you are at (or over) speed limit. Enjoy it a second longer and you are over 80 mph. Although I had a good run on M6 toll road, in normal D (auto) mode I could hardly push it enough to truly say what its capable of... have to wait couple weeks until I manage to go on track end of August.
Mike also installed MFactory 4.67 FD, nice upgrade for my auto.
And I have got an engine oil cooler and an autobox oil cooler. Too early to tell but after 3hrs of driving at 30+C the oil temp have not moved above 90C, not by a degree. Hope it can cope well on track with current temps, I will have 3 days in 1 week shortly 
So far very enjoyable and very happy I have decided to take a plunge with FI, will post an update after few track days and more experience...

Well I didn’t expect to hear that! Maybe I should reduce my surety down to 90%

Did you replace the shims when you upgraded? I was a little heavy handed with mine when cleaning so I will be changing them.

Gonna try to kill these stock pads off at Three Sisters on Friday so hopefully won’t be too much longer before I upgrade them haha! Lauren mentioned you’re there on Friday too, so I’ll hopefully catch you then

I’m 99.9% sure that stock pads squeal coz they stick in the calipers!

What I found when cleaning up the calipers is that the rear pads fit very tightly into the shims. It’s takes very little dirt or corrosion on the pad or carrier to make them stick in place and cause the loud squealing.

I cleaned the rust and the hardened copper grease out of both front and rear carriers and shims, and used Cera-Tec brake grease back in December which stopped the squealing. Almost 6 months later and the fronts still don’t make a sound!





BUT the rear pads were nearly as loud as before after about 3 months and the squeal was so bad it sounded like it was the fronts as well - but defo only the rears.

A few weeks ago I couldn’t take any more of the squealing so I cleaned the rears again. They were nowhere near as bad as before tho, but I noticed this time that there was corrosion under the coating on the edges of the square tabs at the ends of the pads. This meant I had to use some force to remove the pads from the caliper.

I filed the edges of the tabs down on the pads to clean metal, greased up with Cera-Tec, and the pads were able to slot in and out of the shims on the calipers easily and there was smooth movement. Stopped all squeal. And I didn’t touch the pad or disc surfaces.

Didn’t take any pics but I’ve highlighted the bits I filed



The car is my daily driver and the brakes only get a lil workout every couple of weeks.

I think aftermarket pads must have a thinner or better coating on the tabs if they stop the squeal.

Thanks for the tips @VAD17 , I like how you planned it out!
@sam534 i never even thought about donninngton. I’ve got family in Nottingham so won’t need a hotel, think I’ll look into that

Hunt completed!

Hunt completed!

Thanks guys!

The drive through the Scottish countryside was nice and the only snow was on the hills luckily.

I'm not gonna lie, I was still far too scared to drive it hard in case I spun off - I think I saw the redline twice in 4 hours which is totally not like me

Not sure if the new (odd budget) front tyre was causing problems, because it was tracking to the same (left) side at motorway speeds.

Will fit a couple new potenzas (bin the budget tyre and keep the other potenza as spare) and hope that fixes it. If not, then a visit to RRG Mac for alignment will be done next week.

It's a toyota approved car and this stuff should've been checked, so I'm not entirely happy right now. I'll be smiling when she's right.

I'm used to dirty black cars, this is my side chick

Hunt completed!