KAS

I don’t wanna speak too soon, but cleaning the MAF and resetting the ecu last night using this method https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68328 seems to have improved it. There still seem to be a little bit of Rev hang changing gear, and deceleration doesn’t seem to be immediate but it hasn’t spiked higher than 1200rpm when dipping the clutch coming to a stop which is the main improvement. I just can’t remember if all that’s normal behaviour or not lol I spent £20 on some special Moly spray and £30 on a new gasket so I’ll probably remove the TB after the MOT and give it a new coating anyway and hope I don’t make it worse [emoji1787]

Idle is spot on. I only removed the intake hose from the TB, and disconnected it from the sound gen tube and airbox. I actually used a ratchet to tighten the clips back up, so I know they’re good. But I’ll be removing the intake hose again to clean the maf now that my maf cleaner spray has turned up. So I’ll double check for leaks, I always forget to check the simple stuff so cheers for the reminder [emoji1787] I found this pic of a brand new engine on the Perrin website, the TB has the same black stuff around the valve so I’ve ordered some dry moly spray to recoat the valve and rear TB walls.

Yup, that was the before pic, and that’s what I thought as well. But every photo I’ve seen since of TBs on these cars all have the same “soot” around the valve. That’s why I’m starting to believe it is actually a molybdenum coating, rather than soot/dirt. I didn’t actually spray anything into the TB, just carb cleaner on a rag to wipe it all “clean” lol - so there shouldn’t be any debris I’ve got some CRC maf sensor cleaner on the way, but there’s no issues with idling or stalling, or general running other than mentioned in my first post. I don’t think the valve is sticking either because as soon as I come to a complete stop, the revs go back down to normal idle. It’s just that period of pressing the clutch in to actually halting where the revs drop to 1k then rise up to 1.5 or 2k rpm. If the coating on the valve was there deliberately, then it would have reduced the amount of air that can pass thru when no throttle is applied, so now I feel that the ECU may effectively be seeing more air than normal with the valve in that position, so is having to compensate to close it a little further. I dunno, but it’s doing my head in [emoji1787] Will try disconnecting the battery tonight, and if that doesn’t sort it, I’ve read that flashing the Map/tune back onto the ECU can fix it.

So because I’m old school and I was doing some prep for my MOT, I thought I’d give the inside of the throttle body a quick clean now that the cars done 45k miles. Now, when driving, and pressing the clutch coming to a stop, the revs will drop to 1krpm but then rise up to 1.5 or 2krpm until I’ve come to an absolute stop. There seems to be a bit of Rev hang and delay when decelerating too. Has anyone cleaned their throttle body and had this issue? I’ve tried removing the EFI fuses and recalibrating the throttle pedal (pressing it 5 times slowly while ignition is on but engine off) To clean it, I used carb cleaner and a rag and a load of what I assumed was soot/dirt/oil residue came off from around the butterfly and behind it. The actual bore of the throttle body was clean, and so was the front of the valve. But there was a circle of black around the edge of the valve and in the bore behind it. I can only find one post of the FT86 forum in which one person suggests it’s a molybdenum coating to reduce friction and help seal around the valve.

So that’s what the white pad is for! I bought mine when it was 2 years old and it never had the cup - just the white pad lol Learn something new everyday. I like the zip tie idea [emoji1417]

Sorted

You can get kits to diy https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/scratch-repair-and-paint-restorers/rain-x-windscreen-repair-kit-125108.html

Oh check out the uneven wear on the inside of factory discs and pads after 4 years and 32,000 miles! Most likely another reason why the rears start to squeak so much. Also, the single use carrier bolts get pretty bad which is why toyota say to replace them

I nearly bought some from eurocarparts just for the shims, but I got the shims from brakes international for less than half the price of toyota instead. The fronts came with new boots for the sliders, but the rears didn’t. But toyota only sell them as part of a rebuild kit. Fitted new bushes to the lower pins all runs from toyota tho. 500 miles squeak free so far [emoji23]

The parts guy at toyota said he never sells them so I doubt many people actually do renew them bolts. I’m sure my PFC or EBC pads instructions said not to file the pads, and to file the carrier instead. But I know what you mean, the paint isn’t exactly uniform on the pads. Last time I tried to stops the squeaks, I had to file the stock pads to stop them from sticking coz rust had bubbled up under the paint. All fun and games lol

Actual copper grease? Hope you didn’t use it on the slider pins! What else did you get in the kit? Was it just the rubber boots and seals? Didn’t know toyota even had an eBay store lol. https://mintex.com/copper-slip-vs-ceratec/?lang=en-gbr

He’s an absolute legend! Luckily I already own a couple of wash mitts so I don’t need to watch this one of his vids [emoji23]

I’ve just changed the discs and pads all round on mine - I’m pretty certain they were the same ones from factory, I can’t find anything on MyToyota login or invoices from the previous owner about brake changes. I haven’t changed them in the 2 years I’ve owned the car either. The rear discs were below min thickness of 16mm, with about 2mm of pad left. The front discs were just over min at 22.35mm with about 3-4mm of pad left. 32,000 miles and just over 4 years old. So it looks like for me at least, one set of discs per set of pads! Only tracked it once, and the rest of the time the car is my daily...

You’re right about the kit church, it’s doesn’t include the pad support plates - my mistake! I bought a kit from eBay which came with new boots for the sliders and new grease but had to send them back because they were for non vented discs. Annoying! Looks like I may have to pay toyota prices for new plates and boots [emoji24]