-
Content Count
74 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About KAS
-
Rank
Member
Profile Information
-
Location
Manchester
-
Colour Car
Black
Recent Profile Visitors
The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.
-
KAS started following Rotational Squeaking from Discs?, 8” alloys with decent poke [emoji1428], Chipped Windscreen Repair and and 2 others
-
I’m after some quality alloys, no more than 8” wide, 17” or 18” diameter. Decent poke of at least 42 but no more than ET35 Also, less than ten spokes bc I’m lazy when it comes to cleaning [emoji23] What you got!
-
You can get kits to diy https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/scratch-repair-and-paint-restorers/rain-x-windscreen-repair-kit-125108.html
-
Oh check out the uneven wear on the inside of factory discs and pads after 4 years and 32,000 miles! Most likely another reason why the rears start to squeak so much. Also, the single use carrier bolts get pretty bad which is why toyota say to replace them
-
-
I nearly bought some from eurocarparts just for the shims, but I got the shims from brakes international for less than half the price of toyota instead. The fronts came with new boots for the sliders, but the rears didn’t. But toyota only sell them as part of a rebuild kit. Fitted new bushes to the lower pins all runs from toyota tho. 500 miles squeak free so far [emoji23]
-
-
The parts guy at toyota said he never sells them so I doubt many people actually do renew them bolts. I’m sure my PFC or EBC pads instructions said not to file the pads, and to file the carrier instead. But I know what you mean, the paint isn’t exactly uniform on the pads. Last time I tried to stops the squeaks, I had to file the stock pads to stop them from sticking coz rust had bubbled up under the paint. All fun and games lol
-
Actual copper grease? Hope you didn’t use it on the slider pins! What else did you get in the kit? Was it just the rubber boots and seals? Didn’t know toyota even had an eBay store lol. https://mintex.com/copper-slip-vs-ceratec/?lang=en-gbr
-
He’s an absolute legend! Luckily I already own a couple of wash mitts so I don’t need to watch this one of his vids [emoji23]
-
I’ve just changed the discs and pads all round on mine - I’m pretty certain they were the same ones from factory, I can’t find anything on MyToyota login or invoices from the previous owner about brake changes. I haven’t changed them in the 2 years I’ve owned the car either. The rear discs were below min thickness of 16mm, with about 2mm of pad left. The front discs were just over min at 22.35mm with about 3-4mm of pad left. 32,000 miles and just over 4 years old. So it looks like for me at least, one set of discs per set of pads! Only tracked it once, and the rest of the time the car is my daily...
-
You’re right about the kit church, it’s doesn’t include the pad support plates - my mistake! I bought a kit from eBay which came with new boots for the sliders and new grease but had to send them back because they were for non vented discs. Annoying! Looks like I may have to pay toyota prices for new plates and boots [emoji24]
-
You shouldn't really have to file the pads themselves. The caliper carrier contact points should be filed down to clean metal and all brake dust and crud cleaned off. The shims that the pads sit in are non re-usable parts and are supposed to be changed when the pads are changed. They're a jip from Toyota if you buy them separately, but I think they come as part of a caliper rebuild kit that also comes with new rubber boots for the slider pins, new piston seals, and grease - its £20 for the pack but I dunno if that was per axel or per caliper.. The caliper carrier bolts have to be renewed as well when changing the discs, they cost me about £20 for 8 bolts from Toyota. You also need to renew the bush on the lower slider pin on each of the calipers, as well as cleaning and re-greasing the pins and fitting new boots. If any of the above is missed it can cause sticking etc. The metal backing plates are "supposed" to be anti squeal shims lol with another shim in between those and the pad. You need to put grease between the pad and the backing plate according to the repair manual. I got new thinner metal backing plates/shims with my EBS Yellowstuff pads so I used them instead.
-
The shims that the pads sit in get dirty and cause the inner pad to stick. I’ve just changed the discs and pads all round, and the insides of the discs had uneven wear. It’s worth cleaning the shims but if the inside of the disc is uneven it may not make much difference . This is one of the shims I took out of the rear callipers yesterday
-
They’re not both left hand discs - look at the groove directions. The label is wrong, they did the same with mine!
-
Don’t use copper grease. Use proper disc brake grease like cera-tec. The repair manual states “Lithium Soap Base Glycol Grease” If you buy the bush and shin kit from toyota it comes with the grease you need to use. I’ve always found copper grease attracts dirt and can harden over time. Not recommended for abs either I think.
-
KAS started following For Sale GT86 / BRZ Parts
-
-
KAS started following BBK Options
-
Ah, my bad. I was just going off the offset. Where are you based btw?