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  1. KAS

    Incoming Part Out

    Thanks James. If it’s the legit TRD kit they should’ve been installed with pop clips into pre-existing holes in the sills and screws/brackets in the arches the arches. So could you make sure they keep the fitting kit please?
  2. KAS

    Incoming Part Out

    I’m keen on the TRD skirts. When will they be ready?
  3. Those spot welds on mine have separated on both sides but I thought that was because of my subwoofer [emoji1787] I’m surprised it’s making a noise when you’re pulling away tho, I can’t see why it would be under any load… glad you found it!
  4. What time stamp should we hear the noise? How old is the car and are there any mods? Try checking the exhaust or heat shields for rubbing. Are the diff bushings done up tight? Are the brake pads sticking at all? Is the squeak from the seat belt socket? I can’t really tell what the noise is so I’m just throwing some ideas out lol
  5. Finally got round to doing lol Found some info about the coating here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/438430-ported-throttle-body-plate-sealant-2.html This is what is left of “goop” on the back of the throttle body which my initial “cleaning” missed. Looks like it was brushed on. Similar moly paste is £60 a tin, so I went with the spray on moly dry lube by CRC which ended up being quite a thin layer despite a few coats Masked up Sprayed on front and back, I opened the valve to spray on the circumference of it too Cured for three hours and then lightly buffed Reconnected the battery, and did the relearn procedure as before. Results: the Rev hang has gone when shifting gears so I’m happy. But I still feel like the engine braking isn’t immediate when I let off the throttle, it very smoothly transitions to engine braking - I don’t know if that’s normal so I might have to book a test drive of another 86 [emoji1787] I could be used to my KTM single cylinder strong ass engine braking tho lol Lesson 1: don’t clean your throttle body with carb cleaner. I think there’s actually a couple of brands who make proper throttle body cleaning spray which don’t remove the molybdenum coating. I reckon a quick wipe with a dry rag would’ve removed the tiny bit of dirt that had accumulated at the bottom of the valve. And that’s lesson 2: don’t go straight for the big guns when cleaning, use the least aggressive method first [emoji1787]
  6. I don’t wanna speak too soon, but cleaning the MAF and resetting the ecu last night using this method https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68328 seems to have improved it. There still seem to be a little bit of Rev hang changing gear, and deceleration doesn’t seem to be immediate but it hasn’t spiked higher than 1200rpm when dipping the clutch coming to a stop which is the main improvement. I just can’t remember if all that’s normal behaviour or not lol I spent £20 on some special Moly spray and £30 on a new gasket so I’ll probably remove the TB after the MOT and give it a new coating anyway and hope I don’t make it worse [emoji1787]
  7. Idle is spot on. I only removed the intake hose from the TB, and disconnected it from the sound gen tube and airbox. I actually used a ratchet to tighten the clips back up, so I know they’re good. But I’ll be removing the intake hose again to clean the maf now that my maf cleaner spray has turned up. So I’ll double check for leaks, I always forget to check the simple stuff so cheers for the reminder [emoji1787] I found this pic of a brand new engine on the Perrin website, the TB has the same black stuff around the valve so I’ve ordered some dry moly spray to recoat the valve and rear TB walls.
  8. Yup, that was the before pic, and that’s what I thought as well. But every photo I’ve seen since of TBs on these cars all have the same “soot” around the valve. That’s why I’m starting to believe it is actually a molybdenum coating, rather than soot/dirt. I didn’t actually spray anything into the TB, just carb cleaner on a rag to wipe it all “clean” lol - so there shouldn’t be any debris I’ve got some CRC maf sensor cleaner on the way, but there’s no issues with idling or stalling, or general running other than mentioned in my first post. I don’t think the valve is sticking either because as soon as I come to a complete stop, the revs go back down to normal idle. It’s just that period of pressing the clutch in to actually halting where the revs drop to 1k then rise up to 1.5 or 2k rpm. If the coating on the valve was there deliberately, then it would have reduced the amount of air that can pass thru when no throttle is applied, so now I feel that the ECU may effectively be seeing more air than normal with the valve in that position, so is having to compensate to close it a little further. I dunno, but it’s doing my head in [emoji1787] Will try disconnecting the battery tonight, and if that doesn’t sort it, I’ve read that flashing the Map/tune back onto the ECU can fix it.
  9. So because I’m old school and I was doing some prep for my MOT, I thought I’d give the inside of the throttle body a quick clean now that the cars done 45k miles. Now, when driving, and pressing the clutch coming to a stop, the revs will drop to 1krpm but then rise up to 1.5 or 2krpm until I’ve come to an absolute stop. There seems to be a bit of Rev hang and delay when decelerating too. Has anyone cleaned their throttle body and had this issue? I’ve tried removing the EFI fuses and recalibrating the throttle pedal (pressing it 5 times slowly while ignition is on but engine off) To clean it, I used carb cleaner and a rag and a load of what I assumed was soot/dirt/oil residue came off from around the butterfly and behind it. The actual bore of the throttle body was clean, and so was the front of the valve. But there was a circle of black around the edge of the valve and in the bore behind it. I can only find one post of the FT86 forum in which one person suggests it’s a molybdenum coating to reduce friction and help seal around the valve.
  10. KAS

    Bonnet alarm sensor

    So that’s what the white pad is for! I bought mine when it was 2 years old and it never had the cup - just the white pad lol Learn something new everyday. I like the zip tie idea [emoji1417]
  11. KAS

    Chipped Windscreen Repair

    You can get kits to diy https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/scratch-repair-and-paint-restorers/rain-x-windscreen-repair-kit-125108.html
  12. KAS

    Rotational Squeaking from Discs?

    Oh check out the uneven wear on the inside of factory discs and pads after 4 years and 32,000 miles! Most likely another reason why the rears start to squeak so much. Also, the single use carrier bolts get pretty bad which is why toyota say to replace them
  13. KAS

    Rotational Squeaking from Discs?

    I nearly bought some from eurocarparts just for the shims, but I got the shims from brakes international for less than half the price of toyota instead. The fronts came with new boots for the sliders, but the rears didn’t. But toyota only sell them as part of a rebuild kit. Fitted new bushes to the lower pins all runs from toyota tho. 500 miles squeak free so far [emoji23]
  14. KAS

    Rotational Squeaking from Discs?

    The parts guy at toyota said he never sells them so I doubt many people actually do renew them bolts. I’m sure my PFC or EBC pads instructions said not to file the pads, and to file the carrier instead. But I know what you mean, the paint isn’t exactly uniform on the pads. Last time I tried to stops the squeaks, I had to file the stock pads to stop them from sticking coz rust had bubbled up under the paint. All fun and games lol