KAS

Yep, the stock mic is powered via the loom, but the pioneer mic is plugged into the head unit with a 3.5mm jack or similar. If I remember correctly, I’ve tucked the old mic under the steering wheel cowl somewhere and routed the new mic and clip in its place. Pretty easy to do

Are you using the mic that came with the head unit?

Parts catalogue is at amayama.com That website is good value for ordering small OEM parts straight from Japan Google “BRZ repair manual“ and you should find a link to a few versions on the American forum. Don’t think they have part numbers but they’re useful to have anyway

Can’t really hear anything in there. Check for any contact between the manifold on the metal undertray? Possible noisy tensioner or alternator?

Depends on what you want out of it. Android auto, wireless CarPlay etc? The only headunits that fit without needing fascia plates are the xtrons android type units for the 86s, which are wider than normal double din units. I think kenwood used to make a “Toyota Wide” unit but was only available over in Japan/Oz etc

Be careful with the jet wash, the fins are pretty fragile, and the pressure could blow them out of the rad

You can use a good degreaser or all purpose cleaner like Bilt Hamber surfex HD diluted down. Spray on, let it soak in, use a soft brush to agitate, and hose from the back of the rad to flush it out. And repeat. If you can blow some air thru from the back that would help too. Rich’s idea of having the core replaced would probably be way cheaper than buying new!

It’s the wire that comes off the handbrake switch. Is this for a (pioneer) stereo install? You can buy parking brake sensor bypasses for about £15 and save yourself from having to splice in to factory wiring

I only run them in winter, and only have one pretty rubbish photo, sorry lol. I’m back on my 18s now

I second varelco. I use 15mm eibach bolt on spacers when I run stock wheels. If you run 6mm spacers you will need to replace your wheels studs with longer ones which is quite involved. 15mm spacers on stock wheels look much better. Fitting is easy although torquing the bolts on the front spacers is a bit of a pain. Just remember that 50miles after first fitting the bolt on spacers, you need to take the wheels off and check/retorque the spacer nuts. Then 50miles after that check/retorque the wheel nuts.

Have you tried an ecu reset? https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68328 You could also try to recalibrate the throttle pedal. I’ve got the TD NA kit, and if the issue is similar to what I get at around 3000rpm, a slight hesitancy then surge on reapplying the throttle, I wonder if it could it be something to do with the VVT [emoji848]

Thanks James. If it’s the legit TRD kit they should’ve been installed with pop clips into pre-existing holes in the sills and screws/brackets in the arches the arches. So could you make sure they keep the fitting kit please?

I’m keen on the TRD skirts. When will they be ready?

Those spot welds on mine have separated on both sides but I thought that was because of my subwoofer [emoji1787] I’m surprised it’s making a noise when you’re pulling away tho, I can’t see why it would be under any load… glad you found it!

What time stamp should we hear the noise? How old is the car and are there any mods? Try checking the exhaust or heat shields for rubbing. Are the diff bushings done up tight? Are the brake pads sticking at all? Is the squeak from the seat belt socket? I can’t really tell what the noise is so I’m just throwing some ideas out lol