infernouk

thanks mate, yeah its an awesome exhaust, best ive heard! and i got jumped by like 10 people for the lights but they had to go to the first person to offer listed price

Crooks? I think you're being too kind🤑

Build up with heavier and heavier braking 100-60mph in 4th gear. Repeat until you can smell them. 

Safest would be to bed in special rig, where rotors and pads can be mounted and it performed on it according set pressure/duration and so on. Very few specialised shops have such, so probably this option can be ignored
Find some stretch of road where you won't get stopped by police (though if it's about stock brakes and not the most track oriented pads, probably can easily be done within legal speed limits) and where you won't interfere with other traffic (i doubt someone behind you will enjoy you heavy braking on highway )& just bed yourself using repetitious heavy braking w/o completely stopping. Watch that youtube vid i linked in.

I found the Stoptech pads to be a lot quieter. I'm sure others will have other suggestions. You may find that you still get a little bit of squealing from whatever pad you fit. I'm running DS2500's (albeit on AP 4 pots up front), they do squeal a bit when I'm driving in light traffic and haven't really used the brakes, but it doesn't bother me as such. 

I reckon Aviva or Adrian Flux is your best bet.
Oddly enough my my renewal this year was very similar to yours. Admiral renewal came in at £688 and the cheapest insurer from price comparison sites was £540 from Esure.
Having seen how much people were paying I still wasn't happy so tried the brokers. Yeah its a pain but definitely worth the effort, i ended up ringing back 3 or 3 times. In the end the best I got was £420 from both Aviva and Adrian Flux. Flux clinched it as their price included legal cover which Aviva didnt. 
Make sure you jot down your cheapest quotes and who they are with as the brokers need this info.
Im 28, 8 years NCB, clean license, mods declared.

Yeah as @will300 said some are open on Saturdays, plus some have online forms you can fill in beforehand and ask for a call back to save some time giving details over the phone. Definitely worth a ring around imo.
Also bear in mind if you plan on doing more modifications a mod friendly insurer may save you money in the long run even if the annual premium is more expensive. Each mod I added with admiral normally cost £50+ a time. Now it's just a 5 min phone call (with somebody who actually knows something about cars and modifying) and no charge. Even adding a supercharger taking the car to 300bhp would only cost me £180!
Having like for like cover is also something to bear in mind, even though regular insurers will add mods to your policy, it doesn't necessarily mean that they are actually covered. So if you spend £1000+ on a set of coilovers for example and have a crash they may not replace them like for like, just with OEM parts which obviously aren't worth as much.
 

Quite a few of them do open on Saturday mornings till about 12. 

If you've modified then you can probably get cheaper quotes from some of the specialist insurers such as Adrian Flux, Greenlight, Chris Knott etc. These also come with extra perks such as non-power mods being included free depending on policy, cheap track day cover, like for like parts cover etc.
I'm with Adrian Flux now and have found them amazing so far. Even covered my TD NA remap free of charge.
Used to be with Admiral too but they were absolutely abysmal when it came to make a claim. Had a crash 4 cash style incident and they refused to even look at my dashcam footage proving that I was not at fault. (I even had to pay extra on my policy to declare the camera!) Ended up having to go through the insurance ombudsman to sort everything out. They even tried to keep me from moving and tried to make me accept a £1000 increase by saying they might be able to recover it and refund me after renewal but wouldn't be able to if I moved! I'd avoid them with a barge pole if I was you!

Fair do's, see you there! 

Sounds better, I wouldn’t call it good but it’s movement in the right direction, I think with a HU, amp and sub it’ll get there, worth the £150 investment anyway for now 

If you get this one you'd just run RCA cable to the amp. Then the outs of the amp probably will need to be sliced up to the cables on the 10 pin connector or find an adapter cable. Here is a the pinout. 

This...

I used more than 8 sheets for both doors but I did go all out. If you are trying to stick to a budget that should cover it.

Inferno, you will want to remove the plastic membrane/water shedder yes. It does not go back on as you will wreck it getting it off, you will either want to replace it or fit an alternative. What I did was apply a self-adhesive foam sheet over the top of the inner door skin where the membrane was (Silent coat absorber 15mm). The foam acts like the membrane as its water resistant, it also adds to the sound deadening and compresses against the plastic door card which will help reduce rattles..
In terms of applying the stuff you will want to apply it to both the inner and outer door skin, the key places are any flat sheet metal areas, anywhere you will feel could vibrate, creases, corners and bends tend to be stiffer and won't necessarily need coverage. Use your knuckle to tap areas to get an idea of where to put it. The other option is complete coverage. It will take less time to completely cover the door but you will use alot more material and as a result add more weight, consider it the ultimate option. I’m no expert, as I’ve only done this to 2 cars but it seems to work well.

For something that light, any polish with a small amount of cut on a small section (like your fingertip) of clean microfibre towel will remove it.

I am no expert but have used silent coat and like it. It was a lot cheaper than that link on amazon when I bought it about a year ago though. I have also used flashband too which is cheaper still but silent coat has a stronger top layer which I imagine helps and is slightly less messy to apply. I bought one sheet of dynamat but havent actually used it yet but doesnt jump out as obviously better than silent coat to look at but as I say, I am no expert.
Lots of videos on youtube about sound deadening but, as always, not always easy to know who to believe!
There seems to be a consensus though that you get most benefit from having a little sound deadening on each panel and only slight improvements as you apply more. I applied it to the floor and firewall of my MR2, just tapping the panels looking for noisy ones and putting a small bit of SC in the centre. It certainly made the car a lot quieter.
Unless you are trying to get the best sound possible, I wouldnt worry too much and just have a go.

London, says it all.

Once you modify a car, its market is limited. If it can be put back to stock then a percentage can be recouped by selling on the mods. If you are doing something that can't be returned to stock, then you will lose money on both the mods you paid out on and the value of the car itself.
If you have the money, can afford the loss and it's what you really want, then go for it. The fact you are asking the question though should really be your answer.

Yeah if you're even thinking about the retail value of your car widebody kits are not the way to go. Look at Adam's car, £50k has gone into that on top of the car itself and it's now to £27k asking.

Personally I don't see the point, I ended up having my five axis kit riveted to the car and smoothed in but that's as war as I was going to go. It's still reversible, hacking away at a car isn't really. Re-sale will also be drastically affected.

cheers as long as its fixable then thats fine im in no hurry, i live in a horrible area and doubt this is the last damage ill sustain! may as well collect a few bits before i head to the repair guys as long as its all possible! 

Around £250. Yes, you would need a remap as well to make the most of it.

You can custom add the oil temp for the 86 it just requires some manual config rather than picking off the list. 
Do you guys unplug the adapter or leave it in all the time 

There is a limit to what you can infer from the car's own sensors, but there are quite a few of them. It can help for diagnosing modest faults, but only if you put the car through its paces, and know what the graphs should look like.
Some examples:
MAF vs RPM can show air restriction, if a variable intake sticks. It can also show a badly behaving sensor on a nasty aftermarket induction kit The '86 has an Oil temperature readout, which is not reported on the dash Excessive LTFT can indicate a fuelling issue if all else is in order What we'd really benefit from is if we could add additional sensors to the canbus, but that's prohibitively expensive, hence the abundance of boost gauge pods and other such things which usually get hard-wired into the sensors.
Speaking as a software dev myself, I think the most useful thing you could add to the OBDII software readers would be better data logging and processing. Torque pro will log many sensors but it's hard work to get it to do anything with that data. Last time I did some logging, I had to take out the raw data and work with it in R to make any interesting plots. It would have been handy to be able to facet on full throttle condition.
I have also learned from poking around how Torque computes its display values that the sensor data is a hot mess when it comes to scaling/fudge factors and units.
The car does have inlet pressure sensors, but it's not clear to me whether that would give nice boost readouts with FI.

I'd take a small torch and check to see how bad the rear engine oil leak is.
It seems to be a known flaw on the FA20 engine.
My car is less than 12 months old, about 8K miles and the other day I smelt burning, had a check and I can see evidence of dripping onto the over-pipe.
To do this:
Pop the bonnect
Stand slightly behind the drivers wheel and look down behind the engine
You will see a engine plate with 3 bolts: (This is not my picture, it's a Google image search)

It leaks from behind this cover and drips onto the exhaust overpipe. From what I've read it's a warranty fix, but they basically seem to bodge it and it's only a matter of time before it will leak again.
If it is leaking, you may smell it and keep an eye on your oil levels.
Longer term you can purchase a aftermarket kit to permanently fix this issue.