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Church

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Church last won the day on May 15

Church had the most liked content!

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About Church

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 05/16/1978

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Riga
  • Interests
    reading, PC liquid cooling, anime, manga, unix, GT86 & drifting :)
  • Colour Car
    Orange

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  1. Church

    Bonnet weather strip

    Maybe lowers lifespan, but imho it's more about misdesign of early coilpacks, as supposedly updated coilpacks in later years don't show failures with them.
  2. Church

    Bonnet weather strip

    Purely looks wise i like CSG trackspec ones better too, then verus, but verus provide also optional rainguards & are of size to not cut over hood's strengthening ribs.
  3. Church

    Bonnet weather strip

    +1. IIRC from pic from Velox/Verus CFD modeled air flows related to designing hood vents extra openings there won't do much to help evacuate hot air from engine compartment. Linkie #1, Linkie #2. So rather you'll loose more, as in more rain/snow will get there, then you will gain something cooling/venting wise. BTW, windscreen vipers put in that recess also are there for a reason, to reduce their impact on drag. I suggest to make normal vents rather (eg. in same places as verus vent kit, or CSG trackspec one) in right bonnet places, where low pressure zones are. They do work/help with reducing underbonnet temps some and also for reducing front lift.
  4. Church

    Air-Con gas

    For new ones eco gas is back? Didn't know that. And price quoted seems sensible (was it for full fill or slight topping up though?). After all refill for me back then was 400eur 😕
  5. Church

    Air-Con gas

    Lauren: aren't you mistaken? AFAIK R134A is classic cheap AC gas, that was before, and was after, and is plentiful in most shops alongside hardware for it's refills, and R1234yf very expensive eco AC gas. Before, because of EU new regulation for manufacturers, and after, because EU dropped that requirement, and thus all manufacturers were happy to revert. - so for that brief timeframe it was R1234YF, not R134A. Unfortunately after one front end incident which damaged also AC heat exchanger and thus leaked it out, i found out in first person about wonderful pricing of R1234YF refills 😕
  6. Church

    Air-Con gas

    Eek. Whenever i look at that sticker and see R1234yf, i can only let out heavy sight. It was for not that much of production time, and not that long after manufacturing date of mine reverted to cheaper, but i didn't luckied out
  7. Several tried. Suggest not to. For example google for site:ft86club.com Com-C In short, whiteline com-c eccentric topmounts failed for most (usually with binding bearing). Whiteline made few revisions, provided new ones several times, people on forums tried few "fixes" they seemed that might help (eg. fitting different conical washer instead of stock that is welded on top of stock top spring perch), but sooner or later for most bearings started to bind again, with spring skipping noises on turning wheels returning. Whiteline ended up delisting twins as compatible with Com-C top mounts, and if some shops still sell them as for twins, they don't refresh to uptodate manufacturer info/description or trying to sell leftovers (if it's FT86-only related shop. These mounts supposedly work better/fail less on imprezas, maybe due heavier car weight, maybe due lesser strut angle, maybe due different shape of spring perch). If you are searching such, fixed offset rubber top mount, recently there appeared another alternative, in way of Pedders PED-580096 top mount that i mentioned earlier. Which is similar to what Whiteline Com-C is, eccentric offset rubber top mount with a bit stiffer rubber, which (mind you, claimed by manufacturer) supposedly has fixed it's binding bearing issues, for example it's bearing now is at angle. I have now such on my car, but i still cannot swear 100% for sure, that pedders topmounts are safe to get, i simply received them and put them on car just half a month ago, still not enough mileage/track days on these, for me to claim these won't fail, but if considering such product, then whiteline is known to fail on twins in most cases and even manufacturer with delisting twins says so, so i'd think only of Pedder's which so far doesn't have yet bad history :).
  8. Church

    Weird rattle...

    And if it's particularly Ace's, AFAIK it may rub also in overpipe portion, if worn engine mounts. Just hammering tray won't help in that case. BTW, you should have read CEL code. "not able to use cruise control" CEL sounds very like what P0420 code of failed cat readiness check does. If one has aftermarket exhaust header installed, there is big chance for that to be the culprit. High chance for it to pop up sooner with catless header, but even using O2 sensor bungs/spacers on catless or having catted aftermarket header doesn't eliminate chance of it appearing. Hence why in most aftermarket ECU tunes P0420 related cat readiness checks get disabled. If you have ECU tuned, then i'd turn to tuner whichever did tune, so that to disable those cat readiness checks, how he should. (for example IIRC OFT forgot in early OFT OTS v4 stage2+ tunes to disable it. For that people posted manual fix in forum. If it's closed tune via ecutek, then one needs to turn to shop that made that tune). And another source of noise might have been failed direct injector seals, if it's one of early twins with still very first stock ecu tunes, which dealership hadn't updated with newer one, "with transient ignition retard fix", and car got tracked (gear switches near redline). But less of a chance then rubbing of header / engine mounts as noise/rattling reason.
  9. Church

    Good news

    Not perfect, when one babies throttle on ice tracks and/or for balancing weight & grip mid-curve on track. At such occasions i miss extra precision at initial throttle travel.
  10. Church

    Good news

    Linearity of our throttles is a bit arguable :). There still is torque dip and throttle drive-by-wire mapping in stock ecu tune is non linear (probably to fake at low rpms impression as that of a bigger engine :)).
  11. Ade: I wonder why cossie decided to stop with their SC kit. Not enough demand? Imho their NA 1.3 setup was not sufficiently competitive price/performancy or top gains wise, but not so with SC 2.0, where they made good kit competitive enough and with several good points, including ones you mentioned. While i plan to stay NA, cossie SC would have been my first choice if going FI.
  12. 380hp SC build in addition for more then advised built engine with strenghtened internals to match also needs uprated clutch, gearbox (heard too often term of grenading gears fir higher power FI builds) and axles. If one takes into account additional costs of accompanying mods, choosing modest boost makes lot of sense.
  13. Church

    Which winter tyre?

    Twigman: might be local shop offering specific. Here in LV i can easily find online Xi3, WS80, R2 in 205/50R17 size. Of course what i'm actually buying are for my 16" winter wheels, but i see those sizes for 17 offered too.
  14. Church

    Which winter tyre?

    Proper snow tires do well on snow without studs (soft compound + lot of small sipes in thread). If you see also lot of ice or do trackdays on ice tracks, and it's legal in country i'd think of studded. Studs won't help on snow though. Definitely not fan of adding weight. It may increase a bit pressure on contact patch, but also adds mass inertia to counter when accelerating/braking/turning. In rare cases when grip of current tires need some extra (usually always fitting good proper winter tires at winter season), from hacks one can try rather temporary let out some air pressure from tires. Imho if traction is insufficient without adding weight, main issue is because of too wide tires for car weight. Which might be often the case, if stock size choice might be sporty/summer oriented or even more so owner applies to winter tire sizing same thinking as for summer ones, going too wide, maybe even wider then stock, as result making car/tires snow-plane over snow slush, not pushing through to grippier pavement beneath. Wide tires can add grip in winter too .. but on tarmac. On actual snow & ice - a bit different story. Cars of common 1.5t weight do well on 215 wide tires. Imho 215 is a bit too wide for 1.2t our cars weight, with 195 being more optimal. Most 17" winter tires start from 205 though, so that's what i would go with on stock wheels (with upping profile height one notch 45>50 to compensate width change).
  15. Church

    Which winter tyre?

    If you don't track/drift, winter tires not used through summer (when soft rubber compound in wrong season will make them wear faster) will last long as any normal tires. Normally only for daily driving used tires usually last for me 3 seasons easily. I guess, you want non-studded and normal winter tires, not ones for soft euro winters, which are closer to all-seasons. I guess, most of top winter tires in most roundups, like michelin x-ice xi3, bridgestone blizzak ws80, nokian hakkapeliita r2, should do well. I'd probably choose no wider then stock, maybe even narrower, eg. 205/50/R17, if used on stock wheels. My own choice was getting R16 wheels for winter though. Tires are often noticeably cheaper, one can find even narrower sized tires for 16" & extra sidewall helps with rim protection over worse roads/potholes.
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