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Church

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Church last won the day on August 10

Church had the most liked content!

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About Church

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 05/16/1978

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Riga
  • Interests
    reading, PC liquid cooling, anime, manga, unix, GT86 & drifting :)
  • Colour Car
    Orange

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  1. Church

    Sell With or Without Mods

    Better price for "stock" car obviously. Another reason why i keep OE when upgrading anything to aftermarket and prefer reversible mods. One hardly will get even 1/4-1/3 of mod parts price, but car's price itself usually can be made noticeably higher.
  2. If car is NA i find it unlikely to have issues with rods even if abused. If overboosted with FI non built engine w/o forged internals .. but imho one can fsck up engine in this case irrelevant of FD ratio. Short gear ratio gearset + FD is what i'd love to see in mine (so that 1st & 2nd gear stays somewhat same, but other gears come closer down). Pitty that especially former costs more then i'd willing to pay for that.
  3. Church

    Autobahn fun

    Twins can go even faster then that, but IIRC top speed was limited in ECU (more so in JDM one, to ~180kmh). I guess, engine & roadnoise at such speed was not exactly enjoyable? As for stability .. it also greatly depends on alignment of suspension. If it's out of whack (especially toe), it may behave differently.
  4. State also your use&driving type/tires/goals&preferences.
  5. Church

    Fuel when lower compression

    When one drops compression (usually because adding some forced induction of sorts), you still would be better off running better quality fuel due said FI, which with extra boosting blows in more air & fuel, "reverting compression change", to not knock much. Also boosting engine puts higher load/wear on it, more reasons to feed it quality fuel, to reduce knock.
  6. Church

    Spigot ring issue

    Conflicting info from whom? From misc endusers, views of whom have been nurtured from various sources, including "reliable" gut feel & myths they heard? . If even wheel manufacturers and tuning shops say that hubcentric centering rings are convenience item to ease mount but not required for properly mounted wheel, i see no reason to not trust them. So if you have those wheels you can start using them right away, just torque lugnuts properly, in star fashion and for right torque value, recheck torque after driving some mileage, and you should be ok/safe. For said convenience in background you can search/find hubcentric rings that fit your wheels, but their absence shouldn't keep you from using wheels already now. Normally it's friction between hub and tightened down wheel that keeps wheel in place. With great force (as probably with heavy hits you'll rather break/bend wheel, instead of it slipping from hub). And properly tightened in star fashion lugnuts with conical lug seat do the centering job. Hubrings just ease putting wheel on (especially on cars with lug bolts instead of lug nuts, like eg. bmw). Even with hubcentric ring, if wheel is not properly tightened, it will still slip and break studs (or lug bolts) even with ring in place, ring alone or studs/lugbolts(that are not designed for strong enough side bending force) just cannot carry any meaningful load such as car weight.
  7. Church

    Spigot ring issue

    My advise would be driving without them. They are only there to simplify a bit putting on. They do nothing once wheel properly torqued down. If you are ok with slightly less convenient putting wheel on, there is no drawback with driving w/o them.
  8. If you mostly only track car, OE alignment is very off for such use. Mostly - due insufficient camber all around, especially in front. Car is too understeer biased and sees heavy camber wear for tires with ripped tire outer sides while almost no wear on insides (and due such uneven contact for use at track also reduced grip). Though OE brakes usually is first limit one hits at track/HPDE (but with not too grippy tires usually good track pads and better brake fluid might be sufficient), OE alignment is next limitation one hits. If by OE there is zero front camber, -1dg rear camber, then more optimal for track would be -3 to -3.5 degrees front camber and -2.5dg rear camber.
  9. adjustable rear arms add camber adjustment. (stock for twins there is only toe adjustment in front and rear) this traction mod modifies pickup point, as in car suspension behaves, when you transfer mass to rear, when adding gas, changing a bit traction for accelerating out of corners. i myself get a bit of that stuff by toe-in in rear (which adds stability/self centering of that axle. it's also in stock alignment).
  10. Church

    Wheel nut covers

    Hmm .. try measuring internal hole diameter and then google for "plastic cap XX mm"? Imho most open ended lugnut covers are either made by manufacturer specific to theirs, or for most generic, external hex ones.
  11. you left out important variable out of equation. Those "exceptional" NA engines with even higher specific power output per volume, were way less strangled by modern eco emission standards. I'm certain that be it now, those wouldn't be that "exceptional". If even Honda, maker of (in my eyes) best inline-4 engines "gave up" and went for turbo in latest type-r generations, should speak a lot about it. Now only supercar makers can still afford to develop/make "exceptional" NA engines comparable to those in past.
  12. Adjusting with those bushings is more cumbersome. I have them in "maxed out" position and never touched since, doing adjustment with camberbolts (previously on stock struts and now on bilstein B6 ones). As for Ohlins struts .. why they don't take camber bolts? They have slotted mount holes on strut? Then use those slots for adjustment. Or reuse in larger top hole "crashbolts" like those in smaller lower hole. Or they need some nonstandard sized, smaller bolts, so that generic lobed camberbolts for twins won't fit?
  13. Mostly equal change wise. As in there were some differences even with stock everything, so these won't "fix" or make it worse. And i have other parts changing geometry (eg. i had powerflex eccentric bushings and two camberbolt sets too) prior install of these mounts, and difference that needed to be adjusted. Just get in addition to topmounts at least single camberbolt set. It's relatively cheap, even more common and quicker to get, and in addition to allow precise dialing of even alignment also up adjustment range, whereas mentioned pedder topmounts just add fixed amount of camber. As stock, our cars have only toe adjustment in front and rear. And as installing them asks for undoing several screws/mounts, and also camber changes are linked with toe changes, alignment after install of these topmounts is highly advised anyway.
  14. As usual with regular maintenance, mileage or year, "whichever comes first". There are things that wear from driving, there are things that degrade by age. For maintaining proper history of maintenance one needs to change at right dates even if driven very little (as frequently is, in these covid times, at least those, that work now from "home office").
  15. Church

    Reverse light switch

    reminds me that original procedure of changing sparkplags involved lifting engine, and due that also was expensive (and also with right tools people managed to DIY change spark plugs without engine lift).
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