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Church last won the day on May 15

Church had the most liked content!

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About Church

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    reading, PC liquid cooling, anime, manga, unix, GT86 & drifting :)
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  1. Church

    Lower seats

    Well, that j luth's wheel (sold under few other rebrands), and that spacer is about the only way for on twins to move steering wheel closer to driver but still retain stock airbag. If one goes for aftermarket wheel hub and steering wheels for such, there are more alternatives for "deep dish" offset wheels, but those will mean airbag deletion. If anything, i'd rather lean to spacer direction then j luth(atc/k racing/few other brands of same wheels or of same base and different trim), as 2cm imho is insufficient (helps a bit to reach control stalks though w/o extensions), and those steering wheels cost more. But back at the time i got my steering wheel, no spacers were available yet. Moving wheel closer can help a bit with getting pose right, as otherwise one has to choose between no headroom space, or with reclaimed back of seat another too choices, like too moved forward seat and awkward leg bend and hitting wheel when heal & toeing, or too far from steering wheel and too straight hands/less precision and more tiresome steering. Here two threads on spacer for a bit more nfo. 1 2 Sometimes i envy people of shorter height, or of better hands/legs/torso proportions to be able to find right ergonomically pose on everything stock. For me .. i can .. only if not wearing helmet.
  2. Church

    Lower seats

    Same problem as me. What do you think of getting this 5cm offset steering heel spacer, so that you can reclaim back of seat more to gain headroom for helmet? (only drawback i'm seeing, that light ad wiper stalks will be spaced too far to operate w/o taking hands off wheel, not big issue for track, and one may install stalk extenders such as these) I currently have J-luth steering wheel (2cm offset) but thinking that for best pose i'd need a bit more (still moving seat forward a bit to compensate back reclaiming, when wearing helmet), thus maybe will get spacer mentioned above. Then there are options like removing roof lining, trimming seat padding. And, aftermarket seats. If you want to keep stock safety systems, then not full bucket seats, but something like "street-ish" recaros that also have back adjustable, i guess. One may loose seat heating though. And aftermarket seats is rather expensive option.
  3. Church

    Squeak in Engine Bay, THINK It’s The AC

    Yeah, in most cases squeak from engine bay comes from worn belt. But there might also be less common cases of bearing of some auxiliary device driven by belt (A/C compressor, generator, or at some idler pulley) gone bad. If belt it is, slightly weird that noise propagated after driving. Most often worn/untight belts squeak during cold starts in winter or if got wet on rainy days, due some slipping, and after a while driving, squeak goes away. Also you mentioned that belt was changed few K miles ago? Was it changed to OE one or some cheaper replacement? Was it tightened when changed? From quick googling, maybe these might be of help: -1- -2-
  4. Something like diffuser i'd prefer even before agressive wing, as something hurting drag less. And if upping rear downforce, for balance sake i'd wish to add front splitter for front downforce too. And btw, some extra rear toe-in won't help a bit for more stable rear?
  5. Leeky: but what are your goals on track? Fun/learning, or setting competitive laptimes? For former imho no need for extensive aero, for later, worth also adding several things in addition (or imho even before) to aero parts, and those other things may impair daily usability of car. For example except lot of downforce generating aero parts even before that worth going for much stickier low thread wear slicks, much more track oriented brake setup, very stiff suspension setup with high spring rates, replacing most of bushings to less compliant poly or pillowball ones, do massive weight loss by interior stripping, deleting extra seats, A/C, stereo and alikes, adding rollcage, bucket seat and so on.
  6. Still seems bandaid, not serious aero. Imho worth going all-out with front splitter, real diffusor, gt wing (preferably if for actual use, eg. better laptimes, not just posing on streets with driving at legal speeds where extra downforce doesn't matter) .. or leave stock, not something in between. Without actual real use you won't use pros, but will get cons - you'll pay your own money to rise drag and to hurt fuel economy.
  7. As all OE parts often are overpriced, and spoilers often there are not so much to generate downforce as rather to prevent lift and to not cause lot of drag, i doubt there is much difference, especially warrantying "upgrade". Probably both do a job, but i prefer old one for one simple reason - it's easier to clean snof from car with old one :). AFAIK perrin or drambeenie 2017 risers, neither of those had any real CFD modeling or actual dowforce/drag testing done, so my bet is that it's just visual thing, to make wing-alike restyle spoiler look like aftermarket wing for cheap, by placing it higher.
  8. Church

    Alternative dash cluster

    Sorry, forgot to add links. Retrofitting MY2017 ABS module. That solidsnake11 guy AFAIK has retrofitted also dash. But somehow having trouble to quickly dig up thread about it. EDIT Hmm, after some googling, here is thread of someone else on instrument cluster retrofit.
  9. Church

    Alternative dash cluster

    To retrofit dash of MY2017. For extra gauges and stuff, i'd probably look into torque pro app to display data from OBD dongle on smartphone or tablet.
  10. Church

    mixing tyre sizes

    Lauren: is 4mm min thread legal requirement for both winter and summer tires @UK? Here in LV it's same for winters, but for summer tires 1.6mm is minimum required to pass MOT.
  11. Church

    mixing tyre sizes

    Nothing wrong with using primacies on track either. Yes, maximum speed/maximum cornering grip will be a bit limited a bit, but more then sufficient to get fun and learning car/track.
  12. Church

    mixing tyre sizes

    I'd take just one, and spacesaver one at that, to not rob any boot space and reduce excess stuff i have to bring long way from home till parking, as often bring enough crap along already, like toolboxes, helmet, jack, stands and so on. If i got flat tire mid track day i'd probably put spacesaver on and call it a day. No matter if flat will be front or rear, after all, as all wheels/tires for me are same, i can put from front one to replace punctured rear one and put spacesaver in front. But if it's because of wear or to switch to dedicated track tire set, then i'd rather bring all four, not just two. Maybe less so because of size, more so due tire model/compound/wear grip may noticeably differ and i wouldn't want to change much grip bias more to understeer or to oversteer. To even out wear from existing set if there is square wheel/tire setup, one can always do tire rotation of existing set anyway, and i doubt that wear will "arrive" unexpectedly mid track day, usually it's obvious, if tires with observable wear level will last or not. Whichever you do, always try to put as similar as possible tires in rear, due LSD. More then advised, same wheel, same tire model & sizing and preferably even wear.
  13. Take note on fuel usage, that most probably work involved disconnecting battery and thus clearing learnt fuel trims, so some driving in due to relearn those. And yes, grippier tires most often mean also higher rolling resistance, no free candy.
  14. Church

    That unique GT86 sound!

    Also aero drag and power to counter it grows at very high rate. So even if 70mph doesn't look that much slower then 100mph, drag (and power required) differs a LOT, so not sure, if worth to compare with cars/power/speed of past. From wiki, if car cruising at 50mph needs 10hp to counter aero drag, 80hp - to counter drag at speed of 100mph.
  15. Church

    Commercials and Promotionals for Our Cars

    Well, if purely & exactly "wind in hair", then of course mandatory helmet will rob some. But in sense how close ambient feels and of speed feel even at relatively slow speeds, only karts ever gave me something close to motorcycle's :). Maybe "track-toy" cars like ktm crossbow/radical/lotus 7/ariel atom might be similar with their much lower seating, tight cabin/open wheels in addition to open top, but mx5, when i had a go in it, felt too much "like car". Though both times with me driving in mx5 were on trackdays (so also with helmet :D), maybe road cruising is different.