Jay Bamrah

I found the res to drones with the manifold swap it had a really loud jump in volume around 3000rpm no matter how little throttle you were using. I swapped mine out for the super res and found it much better although the turbo has quietened it down a bit now so tempted to go back to res.
if you tried the res and found it to late I’d be happy to swap out the centre pipe with my super res 👍🏻

I had the NA kit with a non-res miltek (probably cracked) that got the attention of the neighbours, it could set car alarms off in multi storey car parks. I got the TD super res fitted, quieter all round but still sounds good. Next time I set off for work after getting it fitted, it set next doors car alarm off... 😁

Important question Jay - Are you in for it for the sound or for performance gains? If you are in for the former, then super res it is as with a decatted manifold it gets very loud otherwise. If you are in for the latter, there is really not much in it, so not worth it. 
 
 

Hello again Jay mate,
I've got the TD res fitted to my otherwise stock gt86 so if all goes well with picking up the light you could hear it then!
 

This.
My partner hated the resonated version on both the N/A and the Turbo. The car was loud on the N/A kit and wasn't appreciated by heathens when on cold start. Generally couldn't listen to the radio without it almost being at full volume.
I've only had the SR on the turbo, and is fairly quiet, listen to the radio on cruises, and allows you to hear the turbo do it's thing. It's also quiet enough to meet noise regs at tracks like Bedford (or I wasn't warned about it) but I know it was near the limit at Oulton Park on the N/A with the resonated.
Personally, I would get the SR.

It sounds nice with the super-resonator, no drone on the motorway but still makes its presence known.

It's everything wrong with paying own money to make car, which is often chosen for handling as driver's car, handle worse, for sake of arguable change of looks few if any but owner will notice, and probably guided by several misconceptions. Things "gained" with staggered setup: inability to even out wear by rotating wheels, limited tire choice that has both sizings available, way more understeery car, twice harder to find/source single replacement wheel in case of damage, harder to find buyers for staggered wheel set later on. And as one of reasons to go staggered was probably to fit widest tires one can, not only car will loose playfulness, but tire cost probably also will be doubled.

I had to swap out the resonator for the super-resonator.
My BRZ is my daily driver and it was just too loud to be tolerable on my 40 mile commute. It was also sleepy village uncouth at night.

I was on my mobile and in bed when I posted that; https://www.willtheyfit.com/ can show you how the fitment of a wheel will change compared to stock.  The standard wheels on our cars are a 17x7J, ET48 (wheel diameter x wheel width, offset) with a 215/45 tyre (tread width/profile).
Just as an aside, there's nothing wrong with a staggered setup (wider rears than fronts) from a technical point of view, many sports cars/supercars use that, but the stock setup isn't staggered so you just need to be aware that you will change the handling balance if you go that route and even turbo/SC you wouldn't need to go staggered.

Yeah I bought from speedline when the GBP/USD exchange was so good it was £190 all in
Let me know if they’re all good tho when they arrive!

They won't fit, you need a 5x100 bolt pattern and these are 5x120. Also these are two different widths (8" front, 9" rear), so you'll end up with wider rear tyres and understeer.
Looks like you can get the same wheels in 5x100 though, pop "bola b9 5x100" into Google and have a look through those. I'd recommend reading up on wheel fitment/sizing first, as it'll help you understand what you're buying. There are online calculators that can show you if the wheels will fit.

I used to own the speed line ones so il compare them for you bro. I crashed the back left of my car so I still have one tail light left from the speed line lol (right one).

Still for sale....

This should get you started, I'm fairly certain I've used 4x of these:
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/1-x-canbus-bright-amber-led-indicator-bulb-no-hyperflash-7440-w16w-w21w-t20-582
That's your front and rear indicators. None of the other bulbs need to be CAN bus compatible. You'll want the little wedge bulbs for side repeaters and the rear number plate (I think), and bigger ones for the reverse lights. All of the bulb sizes are in the owners handbook so just cross-reference on the website and you'll find what you need.

Wow, an 11 minute video for replacing some bulbs. Anyway, I've done all of mine (including number plate, reverse, and interior) and the car looks much more modern. Buy the CAN bus compatible bulbs and you don't need to worry about changing the flasher unit.
I got all of mine from https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/, highly recommended.

No, I'm afraid not.

I ordered the TD UEL Manifold and fitted it myself, then had it mapped by Abbey and got the HKS drop in air filter along side it.
My car passed it's MOT for the 3rd time since running this tune and setup last week. You do need to make sure the secondary cat in the front pipe is still there, and it needs to be warmed up to a decent temperature for the car to pass on emissions.

Yup spot on, if you ever see an MOT with "Undertray fitted" take it that this means they dont have stock CATs but it passed the test  Plausible deniability etc.

Technically if you remove either catalytic converter from the car, it should be an MOT fail. Whether it passes the emissions or not. 
 

I take my car to Abbey each year for its MOT. They know how to get it through the test.
It was there just last week and passed without any additional notes.
Not the NA package, they installed my Rogue manifold and Harrop supercharger a year ago.

I know theirs 1000 posts on this but I think the more people that post on it the better.  Each post might have something of value to someone so I wanted to as well.
 

first rattle is here this is what it looks like exposed...

The plastic clips rattle here so I used adhesive foam on the bottom of them(link at bottom to cheap foam)
Next rattle is this ...
 

the exposed part is made of plastic and so I put adhesive foam here (this is the bottom of the back seat)
next is here ...

This corner piece on both ends rattles against the glass window, I filled behind it with foam. The hole here is what hole you need to push foam through to fill it, i recommend you put your finger in first to feel where it needs to go, photo of hole is below...
 

 
next is here...
 

(at the top of the window that plastic piece) the roof liner is lose you can easily get small chunks of foam and push them in there hidden...
 
next place ...
 

this area in general, I know it looks ugly how I did it but it’s all invisible when the seats are back so I don’t care, I just made it tight as hell, no movement..
 
next...
 

this is where the break light is... that piece, I put foam on the edge where it sits against the back seats as it was plastic on metal and had movement...
next...
 

next is all of the holes in the boot, this pushes the third break light up so it can’t vibrate on the glass window. I filled every hole and put duck tape there to make sure it doesn’t pop out. Also every cable here I made tight so they can’t move about 
here is one extra photo

Next part...


 
this is the obvious part, I put foam where the wheel arches are and then I put adhesive 3m foam EVERYWHERE after that, im sorry I have no photo of that but you know what I mean, the entire boot is covered in 3m adhesive foam.
 
Hope I had some stuff useful to you.
 
THIS IS THE FINAL LOOK FROM BOOT...oh I also did that part on the boot door I just took that off and put foam underneath, makes opening and closing the boot feel nicer too 

 
hope I can help someone
ADHESIVE FOAM - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-6mm-Car-Sound-Proofing-Deadening-Camper-Van-Insulation-Closed-Cell-Foam-Sheet/184106555361?pageci=20637d0f-8686-41bb-9ca2-a8a4cfb8a525
 
REGULAR FOAM - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOAM-SHEETS-CUT-TO-70-x20-x1-TO-5-IN-DEPTH-DENSITY-HARD-MED-SOFT-/264125917402?pageci=c327efe7-12b0-4865-a00d-33d9dedbcdb8
——————————-THE END——————————
 

I bought the Tuning Developments UEL Manifold when there was a sale and had it shipped to me, then fitted the manifold myself (Not an overly difficult job to be honest), and took it to Abbey Motorsports for the EcuTek license + dyno tune. It does save money and is also a good option if you live many many hours away from Tuning Developments.

@Jay Bamrah just to close the loop on the top thread, the EcuTek packages are as follows:
ECU License: Usually around £250, this is to allow the ECU to take an EcuTek ROM. The ECU only needs this the 1st time it's flashed, so there may be 2nd hand cars that have this already. Programming Kit (or the BT EVI Kit) with Dongle: The Dongle is the part that allows use of the ProECU software on your PC/Laptop. This is used to flash and log files to the ECU. You do not need this if you're getting tuned by someone else. Needed if you're remote mapping or logging. Can be used to make basic maps for your car and can be used to flash OTS maps if you want. The cable or BT EVI is just the device to connect laptop to the OBD port. RaceROM Upgrade: This is basically a Tuner License lite. It's applied to the dongle and is there to give you greater access to maps, including the custom and RaceROM maps, for self tuning. So this allows you to create better maps, but makes zero difference if you are flashng someone else's maps. https://www.ecutek.com/Products/Retail/ProECU-Programming-Kit/Features/ProECU-BRZ

As with any tuning modification on an NA engine it is expensive for a little gain.
Changes the power delivery and makes it much easier to drive which I like. Does it feel faster, not really. Would I do it again, probably as it does make for a nicer drive.
I assume from your other comments you may have had a turbo car before. You will never get the cost vs performance gains you get with those cars with these unfortunately.

I had a Custom Built Exhaust System made for my car and then took the car to Fensport, where Adrian worked his magic on mapping it.
 
My GT86 was the 11th Auto he had mapped at the time and in total had mapped about 50 GT86's.
 
The whole system gave me a power gain of between 25bhp - 30bhp approx and certainly noticed the difference
 
Custom Exhaust System £2,200
Fitted by Bespoke Performance £400
Fensport Mapping License £160
Fensport Maps x3 £450
 
I would say money well spent
 
Mileage now 133,105