Shad

+1 Only an issue when logged in though. When I delete all the cookies for the domain (and become logged out) it's fine. Logging in with cache disabled makes no difference, still broken. Firefox 97 on macOS.

That's a shame. I bought some MTEC parts from them last year over the phone and had a positive experience.

There's nothing particularly wrong with good quality hub-centric spacers that either have their own studs, or include longer studs. It's much the same as having a different offset wheel. The issues are mainly when people try to use the original studs and there isn't enough thread for the wheel nuts, and the increased load on the hub bearings is negligiable for the sort of spacer sizes involved here.

Ideally you'd want a floating disc with a fixed caliper like that, otherwise you may start to see the effects of pad knock-back/knock-off after cornering - i.e. a long brake pedal for the initial pedal press after a corner. It can depend a lot on the age and quality of the hub, piston seals, and whether or not there are any anti-knock-back springs in the caliper (unusual on road cars). If you're unfamiliar with pad knock-back, what happens is when you corner there will be a certain amount of flex in the hub and a certain amount of run-out from the hub and disc that contribute to the disc running slightly off-axis, and that pushes the pad and pistons slightly further back into the caliper. The next time you press the brake pedal you have to overcome this extra distance before the pads are making good contact on the disc again, which can be a bit disconcerting. We see it all the time in the Caterhams and a lot of people get used to giving the pedal a light brush with their left foot along the straights. The ideal solution is a floating disc or caliper (standard road car calipers 'float' on sliders) to accomodate for the flexing.

No worries. The BRZ interior is a much more subtle and grown-up affair

I have one from my MY2016 BRZ which I replaced with a new one I bought from Japan in September (cost £97.59 including shipping by the way). It's in good condition, the leather is a little shiny from use and there's a very small scratch on the silver ring around the gear pattern. Difficult to photograph. Yours for £50 posted.

End of year trip to Weymouth, and now tucked up in the garage with the rest of the toys.

I did this job a couple of months ago, fairly sure you push the connector to free it. One of the video references I used seems to confirm - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbbyT1ayEjQ

I'm after a set of 4 first gen OEM wheels. If anyone not too far from the Newbury area has a mint set of wheels, ideally without tyres, please let me know.

If I didn't actually like the car and want to keep it, I've probably got a healthy £4k profit in my BRZ since buying it last November. But whatever you gain you'd lose right away buying a replacement car, unless you go back down the ladder, or don't need another car at the moment. So it's all a bit academic really Give it 18-24 months and things will start to get back to normal.

Is it as simple as that though? In the instance of the windscreen, Toyota list that as part SU003G0005 and Subaru as part 65009CA030. My BRZ glass has 'Subaru' lettering printed on it too, so I would be surprised if it was exactly the same part. If you're a picky bastard like me I'd be after a genuine Subaru screen, even if it means waiting a few weeks.

Probably on a boat from Japan, give it another couple of weeks. Did you need to do any work to convince them to use a genuine Subaru screen?

Nice to see a recommendation for Bulldog. I've been using them for parts so far. I do the servicing myself so not worried about that (plus the car has only covered 27k miles so I won't be touching the spark plugs for a long while yet). Seems like a fair price for the undersealing work though, thanks for that info

The trouble is the by-the-book process for getting at the switch involves taking the gearbox out, so on that basis 4 hours doesn't seem unreasonable. The switch seems to be on the top side of the gearbox so getting at it while the gearbox is in the car is going to be tricky at best, but it may still be doable with small hands/perseverence/the right tools. Obviously if it can be done with the gearbox left in-situ it should take much less time and consumables. You can view the details through here: https://dgefsm40w4znf.cloudfront.net/stis/index.html#/diagnostics

Does anyone have any experience with having their BRZ go through its 6th year body service and the underbody retreatment process? I'm approaching that point with my car and will be speaking to the local Subaru dealers for prices, but possibly also 3rd parties who do that sort of thing too. Sadly my body service history is missing 2 stamps so with the warranty now void I'm not tied to getting Subaru to do the job, although I'm wondering if they'd be the best place anyway. All input welcome!