BRZ-123

Do not use In their other cars, I meant. Apologies. So this is a subaru repackaged one and hence I gave you the picture with the 50/50 mix. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Definitely looks like they are paying the full cost and very kind of them to do that though I agree it was their recall that was messed up. A new engine is a huge bonus and these engines are very reliable from the factory. Make sure you run it in properly for the first 1000 miles and do an oil change after that. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Clearly not the right one unless you put battery the other way round. Afaik based on my notes, the 2 halfords ones that fit are Halfords HB072, 68Ah, 550A, 18.3Kg, Dimension 26.1*17.5*22 (£99) Halfords Yuasa HSB072, silver 5000, 75Ah, 640A , 18.1 Kg, dimensions 26.9*17.4*22.5(£129) Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I have a BRZ ,yes. On the alarm , I have heard 2 versions , they are not factory fitted but are fitted in the UK ( Portbury docks) , which might make them different.@Lauren : what does the guru know about this one? If they are factory fitted by Subaru in Japan, I will expect them to be exactly same with just a different looking fob. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

So yes, I think you have got deep discharge a bit wrong. A fully charged battery is 12.5 to 12.2 V on a multimeter with engine off andv14.4 V with engine/ alternator on. The car will not start if the voltage drops below 12.2 V pretty much irrespective of CCA. So your margin is very thin but for Alarms, interior lights etc , there is months of energy still left in battery. Rule if thumb for our cars , unless you have a current leak, a full charge once a month using CTek MXS 5.0 is more than sufficient to keep battery in good condition. Even once every 6 weeks is not bad. Just don't expect the car to start after 3 weeks of no use but battery wise its fine. The no of hrs ctek takes to charge will give you approx drain. 0 to 80% (light 4) takes 12 hrs for our 62Ah battery with MXS5.0 Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Based on my research and a bit old data , following batteries will fit but some will go outside tray. Please recheck prices, check weights if you believe in gram strategy and see last few sentences on my reco Part references : 069, 071, 072 Yuasa YBX3014, 60Ah, 500A, 14.9Kg, dimensions 23.2*17.5*22.5 (£56.99) Yuasa YBX7014 65Ah, 620A, 17.5Kg, dimensions 23.2*17.3*22.5 EFB Start Stop (£121.99) Bosch S4 025, 60Ah, 540A, Dimension 23*17.3*22.2, (£63.99) Varta Blue 014, 60Ah, 540A, dimensions 23*17.3*22.2 (£75 @50%off, Eurocarparts), Sealed maintenance free Bosch 70Ah, 630A, dimension 26.1*17.5*22 ( £64.95, Tayna batteries) Varta 70Ah, 630A, E24DIN570 413 063 , dimension 26.1 cm * 17.5 * 22 ( to top of terminal) (£65.89) Halfords HB072, 68Ah, 550A, 18.3Kg, Dimension 26.1*17.5*22 (£99) Halfords Yuasa HSB072, silver 5000, 75Ah, 640A , 18.1 Kg, dimensions 26.9*17.4*22.5(£129) OE uprated battery 62Ah, 620A, Dimensions 23*17*22.5 Based on tray size go for length 25.5 max if it needs to fit tray width max 17.5, height does not matter much as there is space When battery is front facing us, Red terminal (+) to left Good luck! Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Its an interesting question and technically its a half way house between AGM and Flooded lead acid again used fir cheaper start stop enabled cars. The honest difference between wet and EFB is no of starts 30K vs 270K per battery. Our cars are not equipped with stop start so even getting to 30K starts assuming 5 starts a day is 6000 days / 16 yrs. The deep discharge benefit is hugely over rated and under quantified. You can use a multimeter to check discharge current and voltage on a weekly basis and decide your CTEK recharge frequency as we never deep discharge our batteries, just that starts g needs a lot of charge. Deep discharge happens in marine/ caravan use. Net net , wet batteries are more than sufficient and the AH is more impt than battery tech. Sorry for a long response but hope it makes sense. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

The reason this yaris is not called GRMN is two fold (all my logic): 1. There has been a GRMN Yaris already in recent past and it was supercharged and hugely confusing if they launch another with same name but a totally different approach. 2. Secondly MN stood for Meister of Nurburgring which is where it was developed/ tested. This new car is WRC based , so totally different idea , hence MN doesn't make sense. PS: I feel bad for those who bought the limited edition GRMN as its not so exclusive anymore. https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-review/toyota/yaris-grmn-2017-2018 Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

If you do not plan to go forced induction, I wouldn't suggest an aftermarket clutch as the OE one can easily handle the NA mods torque. Any aftermarket clutch will make the pedal feel heavier. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Will you be getting a clutch upgrade like Conscript is thinking of? I believe in later OE clutch the release bearing and clutch fork were improved. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Good luck Nigel. What new car are you going for? Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

This one https://www.sumopower.com/Brands/HKS/HKS-Pulley-70mm-Idler-tensioner-12002-AK021 Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I am going for the same front rear pads combo as you. Just the discs are OE replacement and black to avoid showing through wheels. Did not go slotted , vented as they were very expensive and I could not justify cost vs value in my head. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I got new discs EBC OE replacement 6.9 kg each. Hope that helps with some baseline. Not sure of the OE ones but once I get them removed I can try and weigh. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk