Ade

This was my discs after 15 minutes on Bedford. Assuming this is quite normal? 

Well it's totally the immobiliser. I'd get that to Toyota. You mention a big spark, so I'd go over the relevant fuses too.

I'm sure you both think you're winning the argument and that the other person is a moron. In reality, you look equally foolish.
Go outside for a drive, it's sunny.

Not wound up due owning oem brakes, but due you labeling everybody on stock brakes as not knowing how to drive, to rise selfworth by belittling others.

The ring is very easy on pads, just throwing it out there. 
Good pads and a stock calliper will work just fine for most agreed by most here, for HARD driving to achieve a consistent and repeatable pedal throughout the day a BBK is the most sustainable way forward.

I ended up looking nothing like standard. I went with the HKS Spec-L. It sounds only subtly different from stock, a little less noticeable than I expected but when I go to a new manifold I expect it to still have a neighbour friendly non-chavtastic kind of sound. Sadly, the planned manifold swap will have to wait as I had a house boiler failure this week and replaced it this morning robbing me of close to £3k in the process.

I totally get that you are right and this is I guess the point that @Deacon is making they are not necessary if you are doing a few trackdays a year and as Jeff pointed out track orientated pads with matching discs will be up for the job if you are. So yes, not worth it for the majority of owners who go and have a play. Even in the sprint series the stock calipers with different pads will do the job and won't hold you back from being competitive. Look at Rob Dowsett competing in my class in a stock car bar PS4's. He's not far off. 
I would concur with @Ade for the reason for going BBK as I do at lot of miles on the road. 

Here is my take on this.
Firstly I believe it is a myth that inexperienced drivers that brake early are the one overheating their brakes. The faster you go the more kinetic energy goes into the brakes. If you over brake and take the corner slowly you'll be going slower at the end the straight ect.
Some people are faster than other and that's a fact. Some will struggle to fade DS2500 others will fade them in one lap ect...
 
Jeff is correct you don need a BBK to track a GT86. Proper race pads that work best when the disc is glowing will give you fade free performance for ~20min track sessions. TMG racecars used to run Project Mu999 then switched to carbotech for long disc life until they eventually fitted Alcon brake kits. 
I ran project Mu Racer 999 which are not the best race pad by any means but they didnt fade after 30minute at bedford on a supercharged car. 
However there are drawbacks:
1) Disc wear was high. I took 25% of the disc life in one trackday.
2) They are not road friendly at all; screeching, grinding and poor bite at low temp. So you have to switch pads out.
3) The high temperature can damage the piston seals in the caliper meaning they need rebuilding more often; one of my calipers was leaking after the bedford trackday
4) Even if the caliper doesnt leak, the dust boots will get burned up, exposing the steel piston to road salt leading to eventual seizing. 
5) you might have to use race fluid which needs changing more often
 
So I fitted a 355mm x 32mm 6 pot AP kit so I could run soft road friendly pads on road or track and never worry about reliability as the disc never goes much beyond 350C. Its a choice I made for convenience. Does it stop faster than stock caliper and Project mu 999? Not a chance.
In the early 90s the 600+HP 230+mph Mclaren F1 came with 330mmx28mm discs. It also came with race pads and if you watch some of the youtube videos you will find they screech like buggery. They also dont hold up very long on track. 
Now you buy a £1M hypercar and they come with 400+mm ceramic brakes  with 8 pot calipers and you can drive on road or track and never worry and they are super quiet and work in cold conditions. 
 
Racecars use race calipers and use the smallest, lightest disc they can get away with. Different kettle of fish and not recommend for UK winter driving. Yes Church lack of dust boot mean salt ingress and your steel pistons will eventually seize or become pitted and leak. 
 
A the end of the day it choice of convenience but my goal was a car I could drive on road or track and it will handle it in it stride. 
 

It's also one of the best sounding

Here is my take on this.
Firstly I believe it is a myth that inexperienced drivers that brake early are the one overheating their brakes. The faster you go the more kinetic energy goes into the brakes. If you over brake and take the corner slowly you'll be going slower at the end the straight ect.
Some people are faster than other and that's a fact. Some will struggle to fade DS2500 others will fade them in one lap ect...
 
Jeff is correct you don need a BBK to track a GT86. Proper race pads that work best when the disc is glowing will give you fade free performance for ~20min track sessions. TMG racecars used to run Project Mu999 then switched to carbotech for long disc life until they eventually fitted Alcon brake kits. 
I ran project Mu Racer 999 which are not the best race pad by any means but they didnt fade after 30minute at bedford on a supercharged car. 
However there are drawbacks:
1) Disc wear was high. I took 25% of the disc life in one trackday.
2) They are not road friendly at all; screeching, grinding and poor bite at low temp. So you have to switch pads out.
3) The high temperature can damage the piston seals in the caliper meaning they need rebuilding more often; one of my calipers was leaking after the bedford trackday
4) Even if the caliper doesnt leak, the dust boots will get burned up, exposing the steel piston to road salt leading to eventual seizing. 
5) you might have to use race fluid which needs changing more often
 
So I fitted a 355mm x 32mm 6 pot AP kit so I could run soft road friendly pads on road or track and never worry about reliability as the disc never goes much beyond 350C. Its a choice I made for convenience. Does it stop faster than stock caliper and Project mu 999? Not a chance.
In the early 90s the 600+HP 230+mph Mclaren F1 came with 330mmx28mm discs. It also came with race pads and if you watch some of the youtube videos you will find they screech like buggery. They also dont hold up very long on track. 
Now you buy a £1M hypercar and they come with 400+mm ceramic brakes  with 8 pot calipers and you can drive on road or track and never worry and they are super quiet and work in cold conditions. 
 
Racecars use race calipers and use the smallest, lightest disc they can get away with. Different kettle of fish and not recommend for UK winter driving. Yes Church lack of dust boot mean salt ingress and your steel pistons will eventually seize or become pitted and leak. 
 
A the end of the day it choice of convenience but my goal was a car I could drive on road or track and it will handle it in it stride. 
 

Admittedly I have a charged car. However I started with DS2500 pads on stock callipers. 2 laps of donny and they were shot so much fade! Pedal always felt wooden from cold. I then upped the game to carbotech XP10 pads, I removed the disc stone guards and put on GT3 cooling ducts. These were night and day compared to the DS2500, bite was always there and was consistent which made modulation easy. I didn't get any fade when I did brands or Cadwell ect, the tyres would give up before the brakes did! However when it came to man sized stops I was getting fade, this was on the Nurburging GP into T1 hairpin  which was the biggest brake in F1, and Rockingham T1, when you had come off the banking into the hairpin. The common theme is a hairpin big speed 150mph to 30ish? Could have lived with this perhaps but I got through them fast, they did not last long at all. We are talking 4 track days. These pads arent cheap and I didnt see that as sustainable.....
For a spot of context:
The car I came from before the GT86 was a MK3 MX5. Even more track biased. The MX5 was on stock discs and callipers, and Carbotech XP8 pads. This car was around 1100kg, and 190 HP at the fly. It used pretty much the same size disc as the GT86. 290mm x 24mm, the MX5 was a single pot slider the GT86 a twin pot slider.
The MX5 ran Carbotech XP8 pads, and did a complete 10 track day season about 200 track miles per day, and never suffered fade and did a season on a single set of pads.
So the 86 is 150-200kg heavier than the MX5, and has another 70hp? and its was running a very similar sized disc and pad which is going to have a similar thermal capacity. Therefore to gain more thermal capacity a BBK is the only way. This would lead to no fade, greater consistency and lower pad wear. Yes I could have gone for a higher rated pad, it may have stopped the fade, however it was going to generate more heat and probably wear out as quick if not quicker.
I bit the bullet and for the Rayland BBK, Cp9200 calliper and a 330mm disc. I am using a Mintex F4R pad, these are fairly aggressive but cost around £100 so nice and cheap. The brake fade is gone, the consistency is spot on every time making modulation easy, they look great, the wear is low. Oh and the POWER. These rip your face off when you throw out the anker, its my favourite bit of the car. So you can now stop faster, with no fade lap after lap until the tyres give up.
Best track day upgrade for the car!! I would not bother if your not a keen track day goer though. If you do 1 or 2 a year for fun and your not "fast" put a decent set of pads on take the disc stone guards off and put some £20 GT3 ducts on and enjoy.
No matter what brakes you have all ways use decent fluid, you do not want to boil it and end up with no brakes!!! I use RBF600, and always bleed a pedals worth out the calliper when I have the wheels off as thats where its going to boil.

+1 for Holts tyre weld. Its what I have had in the car since changing wheels/brakes and adding a sub in the boot. 
 
Never had to use it to say if its any good and reviews are mixed, but no other (realistic) option.
 
 

As someone mentioned above Splitter's aren't really functional unless you can stand on them.
Likewise Diffuser's are even trickier, they're not functional in the slightest unless the entire under body of the car is smooth, an inch from the ground and the diffuser extends well behind the car. It's actually more functional to just totally remove the rear bumper altogether.
This guy has some really good videos on the subjects
 

I designed the Helmholtz chambers to kill noise in the 2-4k region. My main issue was wot on the wotorway in 6th gear. 
They reduced noise at 3k by about 10dB. 
 
Regarding aero. I haven't got a sausage but I like the noise. A bigger bore cat back can gain you 10-15hp on a supercharged car. Stock one is quite restrictive with forced induction.
It doesn't look very stock though with the big twin Y silencers on the back.
Their standard prices are using the stock tips. You can spec your own if you want with H&S.

I designed the Helmholtz chambers to kill noise in the 2-4k region. My main issue was wot on the wotorway in 6th gear. 
They reduced noise at 3k by about 10dB. 
 
Regarding aero. I haven't got a sausage but I like the noise. A bigger bore cat back can gain you 10-15hp on a supercharged car. Stock one is quite restrictive with forced induction.
It doesn't look very stock though with the big twin Y silencers on the back.
Their standard prices are using the stock tips. You can spec your own if you want with H&S.

Peter Collen (of AP racing) is a fountain of knowledge when it comes to picking AP racing parts. 
 
Thanks for acknowledging me @will300 
 
I spoke to Martin Hadland about the CP9200 kit about 4 years ago before the CP9200 was out but I knew it was in development and a replacement to the CP5200.
Ultimately I decided I wanted a bigger 355mm disc because I am supercharged and wanted to run soft street friendly pads. Otherwise the Reyland kit with the CP9200 is the best 330mm kit for the 86 if you want road and track use. The Essex parts kits are excellent competition kits but the calipers wont last very well in your winter road conditions. 
 
So if you want a 330mm disc for road and track: Reyland 330mm CP9200
If you want a racing brake setup that can handle race pads without killing the caliper, but not a good idea for the road; Essex Endurance kit. 

Peter Collen (of AP racing) is a fountain of knowledge when it comes to picking AP racing parts. 
 
Thanks for acknowledging me @will300 
 
I spoke to Martin Hadland about the CP9200 kit about 4 years ago before the CP9200 was out but I knew it was in development and a replacement to the CP5200.
Ultimately I decided I wanted a bigger 355mm disc because I am supercharged and wanted to run soft street friendly pads. Otherwise the Reyland kit with the CP9200 is the best 330mm kit for the 86 if you want road and track use. The Essex parts kits are excellent competition kits but the calipers wont last very well in your winter road conditions. 
 
So if you want a 330mm disc for road and track: Reyland 330mm CP9200
If you want a racing brake setup that can handle race pads without killing the caliper, but not a good idea for the road; Essex Endurance kit. 

Peter Collen (of AP racing) is a fountain of knowledge when it comes to picking AP racing parts. 
 
Thanks for acknowledging me @will300 
 
I spoke to Martin Hadland about the CP9200 kit about 4 years ago before the CP9200 was out but I knew it was in development and a replacement to the CP5200.
Ultimately I decided I wanted a bigger 355mm disc because I am supercharged and wanted to run soft street friendly pads. Otherwise the Reyland kit with the CP9200 is the best 330mm kit for the 86 if you want road and track use. The Essex parts kits are excellent competition kits but the calipers wont last very well in your winter road conditions. 
 
So if you want a 330mm disc for road and track: Reyland 330mm CP9200
If you want a racing brake setup that can handle race pads without killing the caliper, but not a good idea for the road; Essex Endurance kit. 

Peter Collen (of AP racing) is a fountain of knowledge when it comes to picking AP racing parts. 
 
Thanks for acknowledging me @will300 
 
I spoke to Martin Hadland about the CP9200 kit about 4 years ago before the CP9200 was out but I knew it was in development and a replacement to the CP5200.
Ultimately I decided I wanted a bigger 355mm disc because I am supercharged and wanted to run soft street friendly pads. Otherwise the Reyland kit with the CP9200 is the best 330mm kit for the 86 if you want road and track use. The Essex parts kits are excellent competition kits but the calipers wont last very well in your winter road conditions. 
 
So if you want a 330mm disc for road and track: Reyland 330mm CP9200
If you want a racing brake setup that can handle race pads without killing the caliper, but not a good idea for the road; Essex Endurance kit. 

@Mike 
Here some of my observations of the various kits - bare in mind I thought about this for 18 months before committing to the Reyland kit.
I actually ordered but then cancelled both the Essex AP Racing Sprint kit and the Godspeed AP kit, before settling on the Reyland kit, this was after speaking with @Ade and one of the technical team at AP Racing.
These are for the approx 330mm kits (355mm+ kits have different requirements) 
Reyland - AP Kit:
Pro's:
AP Caliper - CP9200 (2 piece aluminum body)  4 Pistons Dust Boots - Made by Brembo  Perfect for Street and track Common Pad Size 330mm x 28mm discs - 2 piece Good thermal capacity High quality caliper by premium brake manufacturer.  Keeps stock brake bias Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs Various disc options - Either bolted or floating brake disc hat/bell. AP or Reyland disc's.  Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Latest design of caliper by AP Racing - including new paint finish Used by various members of the community - with extensive track use Con's:
Reasonably expensive Custom made brackets, which you need to shim to get perfect fitment Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer.  
Godspeed - Brembo's:
Pro's: 
Brembo caliper 4 piston Dust boots 330 x 28 discs 2 piece discs Cheap Con's: 
Unknown caliper model Unknown caliper material Unknown piston sizes - not sure what effect this will have on brake bias Unknown pad size No brake lines included  
Godspeed - AP Kit:
Pro's:
AP Caliper - CP9040 (2 piece aluminum body)  Dust Boots - Made by Brembo  Common Pad Size Good thermal capacity High quality caliper by premium brake manufacturer.  Latest design of caliper by AP Racing - including new paint finish Con's
Reasonably expensive Caliper designed for a 362mm disc - not 330mm as included Caliper designed for a 32mm thick disc - not 30mm as included Ø330mm disc in this caliper will leave a fairly large gap between the discs OD and the calipers disc pathway and this gap can be prone to collecting road debris. 6 pistons - overkill  No brake lines included  
K-Sport: 
Pro's:
Cheap Used by various members of the community - with extensive track use Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs 330mm x 32mm? disc - 2 piece Dust boots Perfect for Street and track Con's
8 pistons Unknown piston sizes - not sure what effect this will have on brake bias Unknown pad size Unknown replacement disc price Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer.  
STi Brembo's - Used on Subaru Impreza WRX STi:
Pro's:
Cheap Used by various members of the community - with extensive track use Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs 326mm x 30mm disc Various disc options Common pad size Dust boots 4 pistons Con's
Shifts brake bias forward massively Steel calipers - heavy Bleed nipples need swapping - i.e. caliper refurb before fitment Not a complete kit Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer. Only available second hand  
RR Racing (Wilwood😞
Pro's:
Cheap Wilwood caliper Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs 326mm x 30mm disc - STi disc's so cheap replacements Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Con's
6 pistons  no dust boots Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer. Limited pad selection Only available from the US Moves brake bias forward  
Essex Parts - AP Racing Sprint Kit:
Pro's:
AP Caliper - CP8350  4 Pistons Perfect for Track Use Common Pad Size 2 piece discs Extremely light High quality caliper by premium brake manufacturer.  Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Keeps stock brake bias Used by various members of the community - with extensive track use Con's:
Expensive 299x32mm disc's - Can have some thermal issues Only available from the US Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer. No dust boots Not a daily driver friendly caliper  
AP Racing Genuine kit:
Pro's:
AP Caliper - CP6600 (2 piece aluminum body)  4 Pistons Dust Boots Perfect for Street and track Keeps stock brake bias Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs Clear's the majority of 17" wheels - including stock wheels Con's:
Very Expensive 26mm thick discs Limited pad options Limited disc options Uses older AP caliper  
Stoptech ST40:
Pro's:
Stoptech ST40 caliper 4 Pistons Clear's the majority of 17" wheels Complete kit - Calipers, Pads, Brake lines, brackets, discs 328mm x 28mm disc - 2 piece Dust boots Perfect for Street and track Con's
Expensive Can't 100% confirm piston sizes Limited pad replacement options Unknown replacement disc cost Won't fit under stock wheels without spacer.  

Eyes wide open, you won't regret your choice. A bigger calliper, pad and disc will need a less severe pad to function well. There's nothing like having meaty callipers to make a car look like it means business.
I'm pleased to hear at least some of the relevant BBKs are fit and forget.

For anyone that wants to import good from the USA, I highly recommend STS imports.
  For those of you that don't know, when you import goods to the UK from North America, you pay 3-5% import duty on Automotive items and the further 20% VAT on the top of that.   Here is an example shipped via courier:   A nice set of wheels might cost ~$1200, but shipping is $600 on top of that. Bringing to the total to $1800 or about £1200.   When they arrive in the UK they have 4.5% duty => £54 and VAT (20%) => £240 and also a fee for bringing them through customs.    Bring the total to about £1500   Here is the same example shipped via STS Imports:   Now the way STS imports work is you have the goods sent to their warehouse in Florida and they get put on their next container (usually one every 6 weeks) and delivered to their UK warehouse in Chelmsford Essex about 3 weeks later. From there you can either pick the goods up or arrange for STS to send them on to your address of choice. STS imports charges vary depending on the item, but for a set of wheels it cost me £100 + VAT and import duty.   So going back to the example of the $1200 wheels. You can get them shipped at a low cost inside the USA usually for something like $50 to their Florida address. So about £850   You then wait for them to arrive and RON will bill you. In the case above it would be £100 for the service + import (£38) + VAT (£170) + shipping within the UK (£50). So the total cost would be £258   Bring the total cost getting the wheels here using STS imports as £850 + £258 = ~ £1100   That a massive £400 saving if you don't mind waiting.    I used STS imports to bring over some wheels from Canada as I couldn't find a distributor in the UK for them.   Ron, owner of STS, tells me that the massive savings come from importing large heavy and/or bulky items.    I got their details from a friend who imports a lot of stuff for his Ford Mustang which includes, wheels, exhausts, suspension and body parts.    If anyone is interested in using STS Imports, you can find there info on their main website: http://www.stsimports.co.uk/containers.html   Just pop ron@stsimports.co.uk an email before you buy to discuss your needs.   Thanks for reading 

Finally got the brakes sort the evening before Snettereton

 




Spend the morning bedding in the front pads onto the used AP Racing Discs.
Very happy with the feel now they are bedded in nicely and no signs of fade all day from the Streetmaster pads.
 

Snetterton Trackday 27/04/16
  Had a cracking day at Snetterton on wednesday with Dan, Rich, Paul and Sheldon. Also good to see Jay, Dan (steeps) and Mike pop over.   Weather was good in the morning session starting out quite cold but dry. I was quite tentative most of the day on the brakes because I fitted them the night before and they were still bedding in most of the morning sessions. I hadn't considered just how much time old discs and new pad need to properly bed in.    We got a bit of rain around 3pm which made things interesting if not a bit hairy, but it was good to practice consistent driving with the lower grip threshold.   Some car data. Very happy with temps, though its clear the added heat from the oil to water cooler is pushing up my water temps a little bit, especially in area where there is alot of WOT at lower speeds (less airflow throguh the bumper)   Dry session. You can see the bumps in the coolant temp curve where you have slower sections directly following the longish straights.    This was on a wet/damp track so I built up the pace and hence this stead rise in temps as the session went on.       Some pics         Two garages 5 cars? Easy   Only track pic I have is one pilfered from the Javelin website:
 
Also forgot to add anything about the transmission.
It felt good all day. The shift did get a little loser than when normal road driving, but it remained much firmer than previously. I don't know if it was the gear oil or the insert or a combination of both but I am very happy to see the back of the sloppy shiftier. 
Bring on the next trackday in a month or so

Finally after what feels like eternity, I have my 720form GTF2 fitted 
  Obligatory pictures: