Rich196

It doesn't matter that much, its about optimisation of the setup. The better flow you have from the instake and exhaust the less the engine is punished to make the same power, or can make more. So often with a forced induction setup if you have a free flowing exhaust you can make a little bit more power with 5psi. Or you could make the same power but with only 4psi. If you blow through a block straw its hard work, if you blow through a larger diameter not blocked straw its easier, the side effect of less free flowing setup is heat.

That moment where you mention not doing anything to quick, an sticking a tuning box on in the same post. The slope is slippery for you!

Im sure it was a company called finishline on ebay where I last got them from. Not bought for a while as I have a set on the shelf still.

They don't have a lot of feel when cold, im not going to lie doesn't take much to get a little bit of heat into them and then they are fine. I would prefer to have the road manner of the F4R over the track manner of the DS2500 personally.

I was the same thats the only reason I didnt give them a try again!

I use Mintex F4R, usually cost around £100 a set.

I have done the above, i wrapped it in electrical tape until it was a tight fit, rattle gone.

worth noting that im sure I have been told the HKS is good for minimal pressure drop.

Interesting! I might have seen a bit of this when not used HARD for a while but Iv never run my finger over it to feel, I assumed this was down to be running a pretty aggressive pad. Ill keep and eye out, I have only put a small grove in my discs when running my pads to low and the hangers were contacting the disc. Do we know what pad he was using, and if he tried changing the pad to resolve this, as isnt pad deposits usual due to compound and what kind of temperature window you use them in? Ah nice! Thanks for highlighting this, I shall bare it in mine when I need new ones!

Second that? @will300 can you elaborate? I have the Reyland kit, with Reyland J hook discs, and I don't believe I have had an issues, but I would be interested to know. @Deacon does this mean Reyland do their own disc with curved veins now? While we are on the topic of discs, I went with floating. If I was to do it again I wouldn't, at low town speed they rattle, even with anti rattle shims, but hey race car right?🙄 Braided lines, I choose to fit goodridge ones I had kicking around and not the ones that came with the Reyland kit this was only down to the fact the Reyland lines had no mounting bracket that goes on to the bottom of the shock, no other reason. Overall I am very happy with the kit, simple to fit, and has resolved the issue of getting through discs and pads at a silly rate doing track days on the OEM callipers.

interesting, this is where I would go after the GT86 possibly in GT4 guise. As I am charged the grunt wouldn't be as bigger jump. Look forward to hearing some more comparisons. Looks really nice enjoy!

Ah okay, I know the seller, and if he say they can be noisy then they can hes a great guy. I personally never had an issue with it then.

I find it depends how you bed them in i think, give them death on the bedding in process and mine were quiet I had no noise issues like you describe. Tends to only be an issue if one set of pads are bad for leaving deposits. I have no real experience of doing this though as i am hella lazy

As you know I didnt like my Ds2500 they went in the bin after 1 track day. Best pads I used on the stock calliper was a carbotech XP8/10. The other option would be to swap pads for track day then you get the best of both worlds

It can be done with the stock ECU most use ECUTEK software