Kodename47

The glass part of the policy is separate from the main policy and it's just an additional cover they offer. You don't have to declare it on renewal. TBH, you can just ask them what their policy is.

No. The clutch is only showing minor wear and as I'm not keeping the car I didn't see the point in throwing money away  

Mine's currently in at Yeoman's Eastbourne. Master Tech took it out for a spin and then spent some time discussing the supercharger installation and how he'd do it. I got a video this morning with recommendations for a new clutch and release bearing, I knew it was a bit noisy so decided to go for it anyway.

Good luck. As I'm finding now, the market is slow (not surprising given the economic climate TBH).

No new belt, put a drop of oil on bearing edge and stopped for a short while


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Not for some time now he hasn't

I've had this from new, this was my own purchase when I first tuned my car and then bought the upgrade as a way to learn tuning the ECU when the released the Retail tuning options but I have since had a full tuner dongle for some time now, so this is redundant.
Base stock maps are downloaded with the Software, but you have to make your own maps. You can use a variety of the OTS free maps that are around to make a base map if you want to do that. Loads of info and resources here (I'm on there as Kodename47) https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=88
You need, what most people call and EcuTek license for the ECU for the initial write, this is the only additional cost that would be required for these. Once the ECU has the license it allows you to flash it as many time as you like. The license is available from any Master Tuner (Abbey Motorsport would be my choice) and is applied remotely to the dongle ID which you then apply using the software update. I believe the license is around £250.
If your ECU has a license already then you won't have any extra costs. The usual way to know if you've been flashed with EcuTek is that you have map switching as most tuners enable this. Note that you can't read a tune off an ECU, only flash maps to one.
More info on EcuTek here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117520
 

For sale is my EcuTek ProECU Programming Kit. The dongle has been applied with the RaceROM tuning upgrade, a £250 add-on, which would make this around £500 to purchase separately. More info on the upgrade can be found here but this give you access to tuning all the Custom Maps and all 4 mapswitch modes, so this is ideally aimed at those that want to self-tune or have a more in depth understanding of how the BRZ/GT86 ECU works. 
Kit Includes:
> ProEcu OBD Interface Cable
> EcuTek Software Dongle
> RaceROM Tuning Upgrade Applied to Dongle
EcuTek ECU License NOT included. This is required for the 1st time an ECU is flashed by EcuTek and can be purchased separately from any EcuTek Master Tuner, so not required by anyone already running EcuTek.
Price: £210 Posted
Location: East Sussex
 
 

It's definitely worth a test drive. But it does depend on what you want from a car. It's a fast GT car IMO, it's less engaging than the 86. Easy to pile on speed, much less effort to drive (see engagement comment). I found that after getting back into the 86 the desire to have one went away, but the B58 is damn good engine, if way too subdued in noise. It'll be a better place to be in for daily driving but less accommodating if you would use the rear seats at all.

If you've not had an alignment done, then you have no idea how much you've changed the geometry and this (plus tyre pressures?) can cause the car to handle badly, even dangerously. I would have had the alignment done as part of the suspension swap, or have it booked in ready for when you did the work if done at home.

Really? We didn't know.....
The engine is still the let down on this car, had no character from the factory (sound and power delivery). Obviously adequate enough to buy one and powerful enough and I'm not even on about the torque dip as that wasn't an issue for me either, but the engine character is missing.
I also read a post recently by a Prodrive engineer who claimed that the WRX EJ motors actually had a higher COG vs the I4 competition due to the ancillaries. I'm not sure how that translates to this platform as the engine is definitely mounted lower than the WRX but I for one wouldn't mind an I4 that sounds better and peaks higher.

Like what? I see no assumptions, only statements (except the fact that having only just bought your new car, that I doubt you've driven it hard on very wet surfaces - given it's July, that's probably a fair assumption?)

I thought the ZF8 was a good gearbox. Changes are quick. The fact that many higher power M cars use it over a DCT certainly suggests that the ZF is not a poor man's DCT. Having driven both an M4 on track and the Supra, they both have the same issue IMO and it is the engagement factor. Driven in isolation I did enjoy them, but getting back into the 86 it's a clear comparison. I'd have a DCT M2 or even a ZF8 M240 because of the long distance I do and due to the fact the BM 6 speed doesn't get a good rep, but I'd rather a manual (not an option in the 240 any more).
I don't think we'll even see the 2.0 Supra here, they struggle to sell the 3.0. As there are no longer B58 manual cars, I doubt that will ever get it - I'd put money on the GRMN version still being the ZF.

JDM cars don't have rear fog lights, AUDM/UKDM cars do.
BRZ is a different setup than 86, that is the standard BRZ setup worldwide.
 

No need for it to as you only have access to one speed system in Aus/NZ. The FR-S is the same. I'd imagine only Euro cars have it TBH

Can't see anything  Might be around next weekend.....

This.... When boosted you do get the advantages of better manifolds, but from what I've seen a mid-range manifold won't sacrifice you that much power. I'd say max it's 10bhp/lb.ft, less than that vs the TD (which I still class as a upper-mid system). So that means you can get better value for money, or probably free vs the sale of the TD one. Options are: Cobra (doesn't look UEL but is classed as), HKS and Tomei to name a few, or some USA offerings. 

Well I use ProECU for looking at logs or the best free data tool is this:
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=10481
[Nothing to do with the fact I helped develop it.....]

Try Subaru info as I'm fairly sure they are used in multiple engines and like all the parts on this car, they are just re-branded Toyota and given the Toyota part number.

On most tunes you have to feather the throttle when you lift off as otherwise the ECU cuts fuel, so you won't get any noise.
@leeky you should be able to do that quite easily, usually a sign of too much fuel

I have the Litchfield springs on their own. I'm happy with it. I'm sure a coilover kit could be more comfortable, but this is similar to stock, looks better (I like the raked look) and handles better than OEM too.

Denso ECU, similar to those in Subaru's.
D4S is indeed just an indicator of PI/DI/Both.
Loads of people in the US get really shitty over IAM changes. Some will occur unless mapped conservatively, this engine is high compression and the setup is known to be overly sensitive. High gear loading can do it as well. Dropping to 0.5 isn't ideal though, especially if you're on V-Power.
I take it that as you're running EcuTek you're tuned as well. There is a lot of knock correction going on. Look at the ign correction - fine parameter, any time it's negative it's pulling timing, any time it's positive it's trying to restore the IAM. That's FLKC. FBKC is Knock Correction

It's just how you add strength to a flexible metal without making it thick and heavy  The bonnet is the same on all models. Some come with less insulation, like this:

If you remove all the insulation, the whole bonnet is like that.
Here are the original set of 4 Verus vents:

You could do them as a pair or all 4. They have also recently done a pair for the outside rear, but I believe they are less efficient (better looking though IMO). I also think TrackSpec make some larger ones if that's what you fancy....

That's because the well designed kits aren't designed to shift bias. You use piston area and disc size to maintain the balance, a BBK isn't primarily for improved braking distances, it's to get the heat out the system for longevity.

Don't forget that underneath this is a Subaru platform. Subaru now do boxer hybrids so I expect that this, most likely being produced in the Subaru plant again, will fit the mold better.
Plus TNGA is FWD.