Ade

SOON......
 

Yeah they can be pretty decent in the wet, but they are very quick in the dry for a "summer" tyre. Only thing about them is they need a bit of heat to grip really well being a ~200 tread wear tyre. 
Never had them myself, but I had a passenger ride in Stu's car (ex forum mod on the otherside) with both the stock suspension and Ohlins. My god they grip when warm. I think they were AD08 not the AD08R which as about 1second slow over a 1:20 lap than the AD08R.
If you believe the below video the AD08R dropped the lap time from 1:25:5 on primacies to 1:21:8 on the AD08R
 
Also here is a comparison of most extreme performance tyres in the USA. Most of these are not available in europe due to regulations forcing the use of reused oil. Anyway you can see some footage in the wet WARM weather.
 

New arrivals today :-)

Thanks. I got them over here for about £1100 in the end all in. I picked them up directly from STS imports.
These are cheap because they are a little known company, but these are semi forged flow formed which makes them light (8.4kg for a 18x9 wheel) but also strong with a load rating of 720kg which is more than many high quality, much more expensive branded wheels. 
Snetterton on the 27th April? 
I waited ages. Order them from Trackwerks in Canada, early December and they were delivered to Florida mid December. I missed the December shipment by 2 days  so I had to wait till the 15th Feb for them to be shipped and they arrived at STS in Chelmsford on friday 18th March. Typically they ship a container every 6 weeks but the xmas period extended that by a week or so. If you are lucky and order an item and it arrive right before they pack the container, then you might only be waiting 4 weeks. 
Was quoted $750 to ship them to the UK so would have cost about £1550 all in. 

Brake Bias Calculations 
So the RR racing sport performance rear brake kit comes with Wilwood BP-10 pad compound and i'd rather not have to waste a perfectly good set of pads if I can avoid it.    Here's the friction profile ~ 0.4-0.45u   I quite fancy the Cosworth Streetmaster pads at the front as they are cheap at £120 for the CP7040 AP caliper I plan to use. These have a pretty flat 0.5u from cold to 500C. I decided to do a bias spreadsheet to see the effect varying pad mu has on brake bias.   Obviously this doesn't include temperatures but I do plan to update with temperature data after i've had the setup on track.      The numbers seem reasonable, but if anyone thinks I may have done something wrong, please drop me a PM and i'll get it sorted. 

Sneak peak 
     
 
 

Not at all. I preferred the power delivery of the twin screw so we'll disregard the centri chargers though I think the HKS stuff looks good. 
I was considering the Sprintex a few years back until I heard about the problem with intake temperatures with trackday driving. The problem with high intake temps is that the air gets less dense with oxygen but also you lose knock resistance. So with increasign intake temps you lose quite a lot of the power you'd have driving gently in the street. Also the Sprintex is limited to about 250WHP.
Regarding the Harrop and Edlebrock kits, I think these are pretty decent, especially for the money. I didn't go for these mainly because the heat exchanges didn't look as big as the Cosworth kit. Now more data is available we've seen the Edlebrock runs about +30-35C over ambient on the track. There is no current data on the Harrop. The Cosworth kit as you can see in my chart above runs about +12-15C so half of the Edlebrock.
In my mind what this means is that the Edlebrock is a bit limited as running more boost will make IATs a little higher still whereas the Cosworth kit has more headroom if I was to go for a built engine. 
Also both the Edlebrock and Harrop run about 0.7Bar of boost to match the WHP of the Cosworth kit on 0.5Bar of boost. This is mostly down to the fact that the bigger TVS 1320 chargers are not as optimal in terms of efficiency for a 2.0l engine as the TVS900 used in the Cosworth kit. Bigger is not always better, otherwise Eaton could make alot few variants than they currently do!
Another reason I picked the Cosworth is the tune and R&D they did.
Here's a response I got from the lead engineer on the Cosworth FA20 programme:
the larger R1320 charger will take more power to turn and our analysis showed the R900 to be the optimum for a 2 ltr engine so this may be why it needs more boost to achieve the same power as ours, that in conjunction with the higher IAT's will limit the spark that can be run
we also tested our kit for over 300 hours on the dyno which included a 50 hour endurance test on an otherwise stock engine
the test was a 1 minute cycle with 45 seconds of full throttle , accelerating the engine through the gears and then allowing 15 seconds fast idle and then repeated
that test was then run for 10 hours, the oil changed and we went again until 50 hours was completed
at the end the engine was stripped, crack tested and found all parts to be within acceptable wear limits with no signs of undue stress
so with our calibration and our kit it should be a reliable 280Bhp
 
Regarding prices for self fit:
Cosworth Kit  including the Low temp thermostat, Air Filter, licence and Cosworth tune (you'll need to borrow or hire a programming dongle) ~ £5200 Self Fit Harrop kit (SC unit and ECUTEK cable/license + base tune) £4699.74 Edlebrock with ECUTEK tuner cable and base tune  £4548.33 I am unsure if the last two include the ECUTEK cable as a purchase or if they are borrowed from Abbey motorsport.
Either way you can see the Cosworth is a bit more expensive, but for me the lower IATs and Cosworth Calibration was enough to pay the extra £500.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Caliper so the disc sits in the middle. 

If they don't come with a selection of shims you will need them. Shouldn't cost much from Reyland.

If you've got nothing nice to say...

Ive noticed on three different system ive had on mine, that they get louder when hot after a long run. Its the packing material in the absorption silencers I think. 
 
Exhaust sounds really nice! love a subtle pop too. 

Yesterday I took a drive up to Tuning Developments. Mike and the team fitted my RCM manifold, Miltek overpipe and then remapped everything to suit. Came out with a respectable 201.2bhp which I'm happy with. Funny that the car is now producing what it's supposed to produce from factory... 
So the overall set up is:
Grimmspeed Intake > Engine (lol) > RCM (unbadged Tomei) UEL manifold > Miltek overpipe > OEM 2nd Cat >Cobrasport Resonated Catback.
 

The car feels great, far more eager to get going and it pulls smoothly across the whole rev range with no dips or hesitations. Cold start fast idle is also now gone (YAY!)
But the best bit by far is the noise. It's loud, but just about on the right side of being obnoxious... just. By like a hairs width if you're lucky. Keeping it to about 2k RPM with small throttle usage and it's actually quieter than it was before. But if you start to use the accelerator pedal it really lets the boxer rumble rip, it literally is a loud pedal. Downshift blips are addictive, there's some lovely crackle on the over run but it doesn't sound a bit 'forced' like the Audi's do.
I took a quick static video earlier on:
Really pleased.  

Good choice. Still my favourite sounding exhaust on the 86.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Hi Sam,
I dont back off as my oil cooler keeps the temp down and I can lap indefinitely. 
I use the oil pressure gauge to keep and eye for oil pressure surging in long fast corners. 
If you are not running an oil cooler I would back off at 130C and use a 0W30 oil (miller Nanodrive is good stuff).
Stock I had oil up to 140C on the toyota 0W20 oil at the track, pressure at the top gallery next to the AC was 2.5bar at the red line. I wouldn't recommend doing this to anyone but it was okay on my car for a couple trackdays. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hmmm I wouldn't be so sure. You can sound deaden and seal the doors in a day. Makes a huge difference and it's not very costly nor heavy. Fortunately you just have to sneeze and the 86 interior comes apart. 

Yeah exactly they are not illegal. Noise cancelling headphones don't block everything, at least not the ones I've tried.
If you consider objectively, all of the sound insulation people are adding to doors and boots etc is essentially a very basic, heavy and inefficient form of noise cancelling. 
What I was trying to get across is the Focals are not a massive step forward. If you can't even listen to the stock speakers, you're not gonna be that impressed with just Focals either in my experience. Proper noise insulation is the only way to go for decent sound.

A timely post as I was going to see if you had done anything else... maybe a charger !?? 

Hi Mike
What were the reasons behind designing the kit with an 80 degree stat rather than one closer to the regular oil temperatures?
Thanks 

If you use Google you can install the following add on which automatically fixes old broken Photobucket photo links. I've tried it on my phone and it's working for me so may be useful for anyone wanting to access pictures on some of the older threads 👍
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en

Their "spec" is for some sort of "typical" output, a pure sine wave current is also given, it's 200A!
The specs are here: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t1500-1bdcp/
Average Current Draw (13.8V Music)  100 A Max. Current Draw (13.8V Sinewave)   200 A   That sine wave would be over the recommended wiring spec mind you, as well as drawing a lot of current from the alternator.

Then I suggest you need a more powerful alternator

One from the other week.
y
 

See its stuff like this that winds me up. Its utter lies. On a proper calibrated engine dyno they made a bit more than 230bhp. That same engine stock tune, stock exhaust made 193hp. 
You cant compare a rolling road to a multi million pound calibrated to British standards, engine test cell. Those cells will give you the same results every day/month/year because all fluids and air is controlled to British Standards and the dynomometer is calibrated regularly to account for drift over time and usage. 
Rolling roads are for comparisons and nothing more. 

Got one in mine, worth the effort for sure.

The WRX 2 pots are exactly the same size pistons as our stock floating caliper, so wont change bias.