sam534

Don't have it yet pal I'm booked in for 20th Feb

My interest is for a non res please!

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Looking like a lovely piece of machining there Mike, I work in manufacturing for a well known UK aerospace company so these things interest me. What exactly where the forged components you added?

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Thanks Mike!

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@sam534 i've no Db readings for that i'm afraid, the drone isn't too bad considering it is non res. I much prefer the resonated system however personally.
 
Mike

@sam534 - in which case i'd look at a resonated CAT Back and look towards a tuning package at a later date instead?
 
Losing the second CAT and then ending up on a manifold (like a lot of people do!) will get quite loud, especially with a non res system.
 
Mike

It looks like we have 5/6 people interested in these now

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I just had 25mm Wheel Spacers Installed on my car last night and still have the 17" Alloys

The car handles pretty good and am currently at Mallory Park today

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related question... for those of us with oil pressure gauges, what kind of pressures should I be seeing in various driving conditions?

I normally back off at around 130C oil temp, but as Lauren says, it does stabilise to some extent around that temperature.
I'm looking to fit a Laminova oil to water cooler this year; hopefully I'll have proper car working space soon.

I've done 110k miles and five years of track days and sprinting. I have seen oil temps upto 129C. It does weirdly seem to stabilise a bit at those temps. Mind you sprinting is irrelevant as you won't get the temps hot enough over one lap. On track days I only run for 10 minutes or so at at time. Anymore and my concentration is going anyway, but doing shorter stints means the oil temps don't get that high. I've yet to fit an oil cooler. I think it's a good idea, but really you will only need it if you are doing long sessions on track. 

Apart from how hot oil can get, there is also such thing as recommended working temps. If too cold, imho oil might also not work properly. So i guess it's worth to get something with thermostat, which will decide if oil needs cooled more or not. I'd think that 110C might be normal temps, oil doesn't need to be cooler then eg. water boiling temps. But if redlined/used heavy on track,, or sometimes even if idling in standstill traffic on some hot summer day, oil may get too hot, and not just reducing pressure, but also it can degrade much quicker overheated, requiring change more often. Car can be tracked everything stock, but i'd change oil then very often, eg. every few thousand track miles, not doing it just when it's due scheduled regular maintenance.
Some forester style L2O coolers might be sufficient for light track use, but if one tracks often, i guess normal external oil A2O rad might be mod worth to consider, to ensure proper oiling and longetivity of engine.
P.S. Regarding oiling our cars may have some other shortcomings too, eg. if running on high-grip tires and or lot of aero downforce getting oil starving in long high G turns at least without some sump mods to increase oil capacity or some means to better direct where it goes when with side-Gs.

@sam534hi buddy iam from Derby would defo be interested if iam free that day depending on wether the missis is at work or not👍🏼

Sadly not. Here's a picture of the problem. 
Oil cooler pipes need the stock airbox manipulating to clear:-
 

There's no room to mount the sandwich plate the other way due to the hard lines. 

You may be able to get more 'angled' pieces going into the sandwich plate (I'm not sure on this) or HKS/Greddy etc do a sandwich plate where the fixings go straight up vertically rather than horizontally which would also give the necessary clearance. 
I'm swapping to an induction kit which will get rid of the problem (the hks oil cap on mine also makes it slightly worse than the plastic oem cap). 
I had a gauge fitted giving me oil temps and pressure. The oil temp is tapped into the sump and pressure is read from the block. 
Before fitting the cooler I was seeing temps getting into the mid 120's within three flying laps at Bedford so having to do a cool down lap and give it a 20 min break before going back out again. 
Post cooler temps didn't get much above about 115 and my sessions were only curtailed by my knackeredness! 
As Knightyrider said the killer is the pressure drop at higher temps. 
I'm currently running 0w30 and even just driving home with a temp of about 83 the pressure drops to low teens at idle. If you're tracking a bit I'd definitely get an oil cooler sorted. Seeing the pressure drops (plummet) was enough to convince me! 

Modern decent oil will protect better and last longer at higher temps than older oils. The issue is that with high temps you see the oil pressures drop and that is really more key than a temperature limit. Standard OW20 oils will likely be thinner at higher temps than a thicker oil, so a 5W30 oil would give you better pressures under extended running.

Depends on the cooler you get, but the one I have, the connectors will end up touching the back of the airbox, @Deacon will be able to give more detail and/or a picture as he's already had his fitted

I've seen 139, been fine at that so 120 certainly no issue. That said I do now run an oil cooler. But didn't have one for well over a year.

On previous cars at 110 I would take a break, tge FA20 appears to run hot but 120 is still high. Having said that not heard of problems yet, driver discretion advised.

You can custom add the oil temp for the 86 it just requires some manual config rather than picking off the list. 
Do you guys unplug the adapter or leave it in all the time 

Yes from Derby here, I'm in.

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mmmm pizza 

Spent 3 weeks in the countryside back at my hometown for Christmas and the car got filthy! So I was taking some pictures and thought I'd share my cleaning process, this might turn into a detailing thread as I have plans to get my DA into work this spring.
 
First off the state of the car.
 

 

 

 

 
Lots of dirt and grime.
 
First up the wheels, these get sprayed with a AG wheel protection spray can every wash, not the best but I'm using it up, works pretty well but does not last at all.
 
Jet wash only turns them up pretty clean.
 

 
Then with a full shampoo clean using BH auto wash, a noddle mitt and wheel woollies in bucket no. 1.
 

 

 
Onto the paint work! As it was really grimey I though I'd hit it with all the tools. So after a jet wash to get rid of the big stuff first, a citrus pre-wash by valet pro 1:10 ratio, this is fairly weak for this much grime as normally I do a weekly wash.
.
 
Then it was onto BH Autofoam, and first time using this, used a mesto foamer. From what I understand 4% dilution and as long as you get the panel wet with the stuff it's working.
 

 

 
Right so most of the grime is off now, time for the two bucket wash, again BH Autowash and my incredipad.
 

 
Unfortunately I hadnt been able to put winter protection on so have been just using sonax bsd and Adams quick detailer 50:50 after every wash. The protection is still working ish after 3 weeks of grime washed away.
 

 
And there she is after being dried down, windows cleaned with AG Fast glass, my quick detailer mix, AG tyre shine, AG wheel protector spray.
 

 

 

 

 
And when picking up pizza that evening.
 

 
Bit of a 3 way shot for instagram
 

 
Why we use the 3 bucket method!!
 

 

 

 

 
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Will be taking mine there next month for the 5th year service.

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Made the drive up to RRG Macclesfield this morning for an intermittent service. Ric & Andy were brill! Definitely recommend taking the time to drive up there (about 56 miles for me). 
Thanks again guys! 

I can sell you my stock exhaust for £80, have the muffler chopped off which will cost about £60 and you have that, how does that sound?