ThatGuyThere

Looking awesome.
How does the wrap work with the arches and rivets - will they wrap the metal, and the arches seperately and then they'll be re-mounted? Or wrapped over the joints?

No.
No no. No.

So as last week closed out I got the rear arches installed on the car and the big cuts to the rear body of the car made.
I really can't say I did a good job at it, infact i'm still quite regretful. It's no the end of the world that's for sure and everything is nicely covered up by the arch as well as having the inner and outer skin of the arch closed back up with all new nice sheet metal however it's more the size and quality of the cut im regretful over.
Check out the video to see for yourself where I talk about it in more detail as well!   https://youtu.be/aZ0T0BAwiqU     Below are a few pictures of tthe finished product however!  
 
 
   

I've followed him for years until recently and in that case it's a bit different as Chris from BIFB has often only fit fake v1 kits to his BRZ's which are considerably easier to fit than the v2/v3 and the only real Rocket bunny kit he's used is the Datsun 240z kit which are known to be bad on the rear arch areas as they were likely modelled off a bent car.
DedicationBlog Content is better for an insight in to tthe 86 as BIFB tends to be more on the bodge-job side of things atleast in his earlier content.

There's a YouTuber called 'B is for build' and I remember him saying that he found the fitment and quality to be better on the replica than the genuine Rocket Bunny kit.
His series on the gt86 might be of interest to you.
 

Due to the start of what is now 'the crisis' and a spare day a few weeks back, I was lucky enough to get access to a friend's garage space and set my mind to paint correction. I'd seen some minor defects (and one major one) when I was recently getting some strange goop off the passenger door and have been itching to spend some quality time with my new toy - a Rupes LHR 75E Mini. For detailing perverts like myself, the Rupes is the little Bigfoot offering for smaller areas and confined spaces. I used one for a few days a couple of years ago and fell in love, I finally convinced Santa to sort me out last winter.
It's too small for most cars and people, as your only polisher, but despite that, I went for it because it's so light and low vibration that the drawbacks of larger areas taking longer, did not outweigh all the upsides in the trickier bits of our small and intricate panels. I will regret this decision if I ever own a Range Rover, but, lets face it, I will probably just use that as an excuse to buy a big Bigfoot anyway
Back to the task at hand, exploiting an indoor workspace to go after this sort of thing. Nothing really offensive, just the stuff you notice in petrol station, filling up at night under the lights.



 
The bonnet is a bit of a head scratcher as I have no idea where this has picked up so many defects from. I can only assume it's from washing, but I do try and observe a very gentle wash process. You can see on the spot, the swirls radiating out, accidentally the overhead strip shows what effects this has on larger reflections - they just look dull and dirty.

 
This was only meant to be a single stage job (I only had 10 hours of time) so it was a small test patch to see what got a reasonable improvement and then blanket job all over. The yellow pad and polish combo from Rupes was fine, expect for one stubborn area on the rear bumper where I have gotten too close to the brambles in the work car park - SHAMEFACE - I know, it's unforgivable. Really hard to photograph this but there were three distinct scrapes all on the crease.

 
The only 50/50 I took - not so easy to see the difference in the photo, but it is night and day in the video below.

 
And this is the bonnet...

 
...which is miles away from the horror show I started with.

Having access to an indoor workspace is an amazing treat for me (especially as it rained most of the day) but having a ramp as well? HEAVEN.

My back was her so grateful for this. As a Johnny Pencilpusher in my day job, a day of physical effort is no minor undertaking
 
After all the polishing, I laid down a coat of AMMO Reflex, which I am increasingly impressed with. It's so quick and easy to work with and has literally none of the pitfalls of the super strength ceramic stuff that I am yet to be impressed with - sorry I know I'm a dinosaur. Naturally after all that effort I could not resist a very quick glamour shot or two.

 
If you've stayed with me this far, you may as well lose 90 more seconds on the movie too.
 

Mtec clutch spring!
Thanks a lot @Mike@TD.co.uk, delivered in a day like he said! 

 
Install was fairly straightforward, although very very uncomfortable and tight due to the lack of space in the footwell and engine bay. 
Once the clutch pedal assembly is off, rest is easy. Getting it off was the pain for me.

 
First impressions on a short drive to Tesco, clutch is slightly firmer and removes the initial play/sponginess in the stock spring. Engagement and feel is improved drastically and can actually feel the bite point. Also, makes changing gears more enjoyable and faster as the clutch springs back up more.
Would recommend, simple and cheap mod.

Well this isn't my first rodeo when it comes to these cars having owned two of its sister car the Toyota GT86.  This purchase was a little unexpected and happened very quickly but I cant wait to get stuck into it as its definitely a project.  
So I've had a search saved in ebay for years now looking at salvaged BRZ's, however it always seems to be GT86 that come up cheap as the BRZ holds its value better due to there being fewer of them.   Nothing significant has come of it until early last week when a 2013 Subaru BRZ with 41k on the clock popped up.  It ticked all the boxes with heated half leathers, back 3/4's spotless, engine running, theres just the small matter of half the front end missing.  It came up cheap so a quick conversation later to Turbo Monkeys in Burton who were selling it and I headed up there last Wednesday to see it.  It was as described so I left a deposit and arranged a tow truck to collect it.  It arrived today and I couldn't be happier.  And before anyone asks the other cars I have aren't going anywhere this is a +1 project. 
Spec wise its stock, pearl white, manual, heated half leathers, CD player etc.  It is a Cat S, I've seen why and will get it all checked out before it goes back on the road.  
So what are my plans, firstly acquire all the parts to rebuild it, I have a rad pack ready to go on which means its easier to move around.  I've never attempted such a project before, I normally start with at least a complete car, so this will be challenge and I am expecting bumps along the way.  Once I have all the parts I will fit as much as I can before it heads over to a specialist to ensure its all straight and lines up before everything is bolted down.
Not sure where I am going with the car right now as theres so many options, but one thing I do know is it needs a facelift as those tail lights are really dated.  So already have a list of parts to fit the 2017 facelift BRZ front end and I have 2017 style rear lights to be fitted later today.  I do know It will be getting a full respray as I've not seen many bodyshops match the pearl paint to a standard I would be happy with, a colour change to something none Toyota/Subaru for sure.  It also will be remaining stock body, no wide body kits here.  
I also have a HT Auto lip kit ready to go and a Top Sage rear diffuser lip to keep me ticking over while working on the boring stuff up front.  I'm tempted to take the approach of building what Subaru would have done if they had built a proper BRZ STI.   
Time for some photos:
Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr
The boot was full of parts clearly picked up off the road following the accident:
Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr
The front end, not so tidy:
Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr
And a better look of the front end damage:
Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr
 

Esure only look at last 3 years of accident history. But just use confused.com, fill in the details for last 5 years as requested but the cheapest quotes will be the ones that don't look past 3!

Had my recall work done by Huddersfield dealership this week.
Provided a top-spec Corolla as courtesy car, communicated well, did the service and plugs (and diff oil, unlike some!) at the same time, washed the car, and charged me £130.
Very pleased with the service received. Would recommend.
 

Had my recall work done by Huddersfield dealership this week.
Provided a top-spec Corolla as courtesy car, communicated well, did the service and plugs (and diff oil, unlike some!) at the same time, washed the car, and charged me £130.
Very pleased with the service received. Would recommend.
 

Had my recall work done by Huddersfield dealership this week.
Provided a top-spec Corolla as courtesy car, communicated well, did the service and plugs (and diff oil, unlike some!) at the same time, washed the car, and charged me £130.
Very pleased with the service received. Would recommend.
 

I made my own.
MDF base with the universal holders that came with the gauges, fitted and bonded into the base. Housing then protected and flocked in black. Unit then mounted from underneath using the heater vent and clipped back into place. Wiring routed through the lower dash up through the speaker grille. Cost just shy of £35 with the flocking being the most expensive part. 60mm Oil temp and water temp gauges as staying N/A. 
 

The OEM tyres are notoriously shite. Can understand why someone wouldn't pay twice the price for tyres with a reputation for low-grip.
Arguably putting hugely grippy tyres on this car misses the point anyway.
Don't worry too much about it, get it bought and good luck.
 

Audiophiles and wine-testing professionals can be quickly shamed with something very simple, called "blind testing" :). "butt dyno" was mentioned in meaning/context, as change to better or worse most probably cannot be felt and thus mostly product rating/evaluation, even if from own experience, plays little role.
And you are 100%, absolutely, swear on bible, sure that "quieter" & "run smoother" is not there because you expect it in subconsciousness and drive differently? For example, some exhaust bolt-on mods theoretically should add performance & let engine run more efficiently and should rise fuel economy .. but then again it's possible that simply driver's foot becomes "heavier", so to see that extra performance he paid for, and so to hear more audial pleasure he paid for, thus running more often at higher rpms or flooring more often, instead of granny eco-coasting and early downshifting, as result fuel economy drops, even though to driver it seems that he drove no different as before. Actual gain (or opposite) should be evaluated by leaving out personal/subjective bit and with trying to eliminate other variables. For example, that quietness/smoothness to be measured with actual sound level meter and something to measure actual vibrations of engine, with it operated in some mechanized/automated way for repeatability. Long term wear level - on larger number of engines (to reduce particular bad engine possibility) running with or without those additives, filled/operated/run in some specific testing rigs same way. One shouldn't undermine placebo feel/positive affirmation bias/purchase self-justification big role in personal/subjective tests. We are humans, it's our nature, it's known shortcoming of our psiche. We paid money for that, we expect it to enhance things, and we'd hate of opposite and feel remorse of finding out that money was spent for naught or if we need to admit own mistake. Unfortunately there are many less honest vendors/shops/institutions that are glad to exploit known shortcoming/trait to make money.

Placebo feel/positive affirmation bias/purchase self-justification feel has high chance of valuing product wrong. If there are any actual changes then it should be of extent not detectable by "butt dyno" and only in long term at best and if you have two identical and identically used cars. Otherwise only frequent oil sampling checks at laboratory may tell a story. So that own "personal opinion" is worth little. One shouldn't be able to tell difference. To me enough that makers don't advise such, that people that abuse cars most (motorsports) don't use such. My car expenses are already high (due sometimes tracking car too). There are better things (and wearables) to spend on, that actually make difference (or need due replacement).

Alternative view: they are all snake oil, so it doesn't matter which one you use, but you'd be better off not using any. I've never seen a Toyota (or Subaru) recommendation to use any engine treatment.
 

Thanks
I lost my Mom 3 months ago and wanted to show her my new treat but i know what you mean 

Here is a brain dump of all I have learned while trying to do this:
Firstly, the process takes ages. Unless you have magic tools, it will be incredibly slow, like an hour a plug or more as you get tired or drop things
3/8" kit is well suited. 1/2" ratchets are too large. 1/4" helps for the coil pack bolt and other ancillaries that must be removed. Vortex/through sockets are your friends here too as they increase your options. They might let you get a longer handle on a small job, you're going to want that!
A flexible magnet on a stick is absolutely indispensable. Ideally not too magnetic to help with threading the needle. You *will* drop something eventually. Otherwise you need to get the car up on stands so you can poke around the drainage holes or take the undertray off! Otherwise small bits of cloth it towel can be jammed underneath, but I couldn't get full coverage.
There is a tonne of thread on the spark plugs so the combo of socket and extension that works initially can be too long to get out once the plug is loose! Nicely worn extensions will be easier to detach than new ones, and a long flat bladed screwdriver might help depending on your stuff. My halfords advanced 3/8" short extension was too long to separate with screwdriver so I had to man up to detach it from the socket with fingertips of one hand.
Each spark plug requires slightly different tricks! Driver's side is most accessible and the passenger side is always difficult unless you care to mess with fuel lines or aircon. Taking the battery out gives you more elbow room to come in under the hardlines. I've used a mixture of the following tools while trying to find the easiest method:
1/2" ratchet + 3/8" adaptor plus very short extension in to deep 15mm socket. Then remove the insert to get it all the way out before you run out of length to remove anything. Stabilise the turning with a finger to make the ratchet click
3/8" ratchet + short wobble bar plus deep 15mm socket. Crack it loose with the ratchet, then twiddle with fingers. From certain angles it is possible to grip the extension with thumb AND finger! What a treat.

It's a Toyota cost but involves effectively a full engine rebuild and from what I've heard they've not been 100% successful.

I'm sure you both think you're winning the argument and that the other person is a moron. In reality, you look equally foolish.
Go outside for a drive, it's sunny.

I'm sure you both think you're winning the argument and that the other person is a moron. In reality, you look equally foolish.
Go outside for a drive, it's sunny.

Last few days have been spent stripping down the engine completely, ready for inspection, measuring and ensuring everything is good before doing anything major. Was good fun getting my hands dirty for the 1st time in a while, and good to see the ins and outs of the engine too. 
Rogue Motorsport measured all the bores, crank and pistons today. Happy to report that everything is as good as it can be, meaning I'll go ahead and get everything professionally cleaned and painted up before we start the build itself. 
Just waiting on the new oil pump to arrive and need to order some new OEM rings now we know the gap measurements are good. 

It's an air to water intercooler, so I'll also be getting a front mount which cools the water going through the cooler before the inlet manifold. 
The rods are THICK in this engine. The extra expense and time needed to install forged rods isn't worth it with OEM pistons. Plus you need to be north of 600bhp before you really have to consider forged components which I'll be well below. 
In an ideal world I'd forge everything, but budget doesn't allow for that I'm afraid. 
We're doing the best work on a realistic budget to make this engine more bulletproof than when it came from the factory. The ARP rod bolts and ACL bearings will be the biggest upgrade in terms of reliability. 

If you've got nothing nice to say...