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Church

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  1. Like
    Church reacted to Lowe in GR86 Finally Spied   
    Christ this better drive amazingly because it looks crap 😕 
  2. Like
    Church got a reaction from Jay in GR86 Finally Spied   
    I almost missed rather important bit. Where is "normal" handbrake? Helloo electronic one 😕
    What's next .. supra-alike no MT option?
  3. Like
    Church got a reaction from sam534 in Geo and alignment numbers   
    BTW, recalling one funny case of weird car handling. Lot of time was spent on debugging handling problem in suspension/alignment .. real issue was one of tires (of asymetric thread pattern) was mounted on wheel wrong way and i somehow didn't notice it after tire mount shop
  4. Haha
    Church reacted to nerdstrike in ABS/Traction control warnings   
    I imagine the typical "free safety check" involves peering at the brake pads to see if they can charge you for replacing them.
  5. Like
    Church got a reaction from Jay in 2021 GT86 and BRZ   
    Porsche?
    In my eyes boxer in twins has only one characteristic by which it's above alternatives. It allowed for car to look better, as in higher engines + current pedestrian safety regs in other engine layout cases would ask for supra-ish fat bulb up front, instead of low ferrari-wedge sleekness. On other accounts .. COG from engine alone is overrated, powercurve nothing special and many complain about torque dip for it, and pure performance/higher rpms imho are easier to design in inline engine imho, with potentially lower weight rest being same.
  6. Like
    Church got a reaction from james_ly in Toyota 86 Gt 2014 Brake modification   
    Why have you decided to replace? Do you have planned particular usage that stock doesn't do well? Done right, upgrade to BBK is not cheap, without actual need (if for example you only daily drive yours) you won't experience pros of BBK (mostly higher heat capacity/better cooling rate) but will have to suffice cons (except obvious spending a lot of money for naught, also reduced compatible wheel selection, sometimes requiring buying new wheels and tires, possibly narrower compatible pads selection, possibly less resilency for corrosion issues if driven throughout winter with roadsalt and it's race caliper w/o dustboots & dual-piece rotors, sometimes extra noise issues). Done wrong (where i write off retrofitting used calipers from other cars with different layout/weight distribution/master cylinder ratios, considering only mechanical fitment and cheapness) may make braking even worse, introducing extra instability under heavy braking or making longer braking distances, depending to which direction such brake swap shifts front-rear brake bias.
    In most cases for daily driving stock brakes are best choice. One already has them "for free", they are more then sufficient for most uses except long sessions on track, have much better wheel clearance allowing fitting most wheels including downsized ones, there are plenty of different pads for any taste available, and they are certainly MOT legal (for example here in LV legally most BBKs won't let pass MOT), and manufacturer engineers have spent lot of time to get brake bias fit best for this particular car.
    Not sure why you need to know piston size/master cylinder size and other data for BBK upgrade. One just should choose BBK designed for these car models by reputable vendor that should dial with keeping brake bias close to stock, then all you have to care for, caliper wheel clearance. For later on BBK manufacturer sites usually there are downloadable brake fitment templates, which one can print out, glue on carton, cut out and check with own wheels or ones that planning to buy, if they clear particular BBK. Or if vendor lists wheels of checked clearance, or if such info on particular kit can be found in forums.
    Who are "they"? There are several manufacturers/vendors making/selling BBKs for twins, often even several BBK models. There are plenty aftermarket parts shops that sell parts online. Yes, some BBKs are front-only and that's OK, if they are designed to work with stock rear brakes & retain brake bias (as fronts do most braking, and in this fashion one can reduce upgrade costs). Some upgrade both fronts and rears. There are many kits available for twins.
  7. Like
    Church got a reaction from GT86-Ian in 2021 GT86 and BRZ   
    Boxer is not the only means to get COG of car low. New Supra has lower COG then twins even with much higher and heavier inline-6. And boxer has drawbacks like limiting space for wheel clearance (imho main reason why our cars stock have relatively shallow max steering angle vs other cars of similar size) and is more PITA to work on due reduced clearance in engine bay (recalling official procedure on changing plugs .. with lifting engine up for that). I'd rather wish for Honda inline-4 high-rpm screamer with 9K redline and more advanced variable valve tech. Losses in COG could have been a bit compensated with lower overall weight of engine and even higher power per displacement.
  8. Like
    Church got a reaction from Joolz in GT86 Non red powder-coated engine intake manifold/Alcantara dash   
    Red manifold is not cheap. And is not the only one repsonsible for slight perf gains, there was also reworked exhaust header, less resistive airfilter and different ecu tune. Speaking about later, imho most gains come from it .. heard that tuned prerestyle & kouki cars reach similar numbers, just that kouki "starts" stock a bit higher.
    So drop-in aftermarket airfilter + ecu tune imho much better price/performancy & gains investment, then trying to buy and retrofit red alu manifold. Too little gains from $500 part.
  9. Like
    Church got a reaction from Addymk2 in Replacement for Ohlins R&T   
    Worth understanding that these mounts don't magically increase travel. They allow to retain travel when you overlower car by relocating upper mountpoint higher when otherwise one would need to lower car that much at expense of travel.
    If one doesn't lower to unwise amounts (possibly running into other issues, such as increased CV joint wear and fscked up geometry, and doesn't also get things like diff riser kit & roll center adjustment kits), but keeps it within range of adjustment of separate height adjustment, then such mounts serve no other function but that of emptying wallet.
    "2 inches of extra rear shock travel"? When reasonable lowering for twins is usually mentioned to keep within 1inch?
    As for ground-scraping slammers for looks .. i doubt they need any good shocks at all. I highly doubt good handling of car and coilover quality/performance is in any priority to them, so why pay extra for Ohlins + accompanying extra lowering hardware in such case.
  10. Like
    Church got a reaction from MartinT in Help Trying to get pop and bangs   
    Pops &  bangs come from ecu tune. By keeping injecting fuel and adjusting ignition and exhaust valve timings with such "feature" in ecu tune unburnt fuel gets thrown out in exhaust where it further burns/detonates producing those bangs.
    It's not as if cat deletion is how to get those,  just that with such tune cats won't live long but can soon/easily be damaged, thus better not done on car with still catalisators in it.
    My own view would be to not bother with such things. To me unless those bangs are from real function such as turbo misfiring system/blow off valve or alikes, hearing such bangs from NA engine seems a bit too much of posing (alongside would be hated  by all neighbors & becoming cop magnet). One thing is just reasonably louder exhaust, another something that rather hurts performance or damages parts. Imho not worth it. Like fitting uber-oversized rear wing on car that is only daiily driven, with mostly biggest impact being hurt fuel economy due increased drag.
  11. Like
    Church got a reaction from MartinT in Help Trying to get pop and bangs   
    Pops &  bangs come from ecu tune. By keeping injecting fuel and adjusting ignition and exhaust valve timings with such "feature" in ecu tune unburnt fuel gets thrown out in exhaust where it further burns/detonates producing those bangs.
    It's not as if cat deletion is how to get those,  just that with such tune cats won't live long but can soon/easily be damaged, thus better not done on car with still catalisators in it.
    My own view would be to not bother with such things. To me unless those bangs are from real function such as turbo misfiring system/blow off valve or alikes, hearing such bangs from NA engine seems a bit too much of posing (alongside would be hated  by all neighbors & becoming cop magnet). One thing is just reasonably louder exhaust, another something that rather hurts performance or damages parts. Imho not worth it. Like fitting uber-oversized rear wing on car that is only daiily driven, with mostly biggest impact being hurt fuel economy due increased drag.
  12. Like
    Church got a reaction from MartinT in Help Trying to get pop and bangs   
    Pops &  bangs come from ecu tune. By keeping injecting fuel and adjusting ignition and exhaust valve timings with such "feature" in ecu tune unburnt fuel gets thrown out in exhaust where it further burns/detonates producing those bangs.
    It's not as if cat deletion is how to get those,  just that with such tune cats won't live long but can soon/easily be damaged, thus better not done on car with still catalisators in it.
    My own view would be to not bother with such things. To me unless those bangs are from real function such as turbo misfiring system/blow off valve or alikes, hearing such bangs from NA engine seems a bit too much of posing (alongside would be hated  by all neighbors & becoming cop magnet). One thing is just reasonably louder exhaust, another something that rather hurts performance or damages parts. Imho not worth it. Like fitting uber-oversized rear wing on car that is only daiily driven, with mostly biggest impact being hurt fuel economy due increased drag.
  13. Like
    Church reacted to Adi in Replacement for Ohlins R&T   
    I had the Ohlins MP20 on my previous 2014 GT86 with the 30/40 springs, and have the MP21 on my current 2016 GT86 with the 50/50 springs and the Ohlins (solid) top mounts.
    My experience with the 30/40 spring was similar to yours, and lost the rear at the track a couple of times quite unexpectedly because of not enough travel at the back. Luckly I recovered both times. The car was lowered to Ohlins recommendations, about 20mm in front and 15mm back.
    With the 50/50 springs and 2' of camber at the back I have a quite a hard time getting the rear loose, and I also feel it long before it happens. But I also did not lower the car, I kept it stock height.
    If I were in your shoes I would give the 50/50 springs a try.  I liked the stock shocks to be honest for making the car very playful. With the Ohlins, besides riding nicer over bumps , I have to go 10-15 mph faster to feel the same thrill . They just make the car feel so much more stable while communicating everything.  And If I had to get rid of the Ohlins, I would go back to OEM shocks, for being quite decent and for enhanced fun factor.
  14. Like
    Church reacted to Deacon in Replacement for Ohlins R&T   
    Nigel's were the original ohlins and he had just Flex A's - no edfc.
    Meister R has excellent customer service and refunded my money. I'll say no more.
    Motons are amazing. Low speed ride is not as good as e.g. the Flex A's but they are much better on big bumps, potholes, etc and at high speed they are amazing.
  15. Like
    Church reacted to Deacon in Thoughts on Pirelli PZERO Nero Tyres?   
    They took a full day on Bedford (approx 175 track miles) and behaved as the PS4's did. The wear was very limited so no reason to believe they won't last reasonably well. 

  16. Like
    Church reacted to Deacon in Thoughts on Pirelli PZERO Nero Tyres?   
    @Church I did longer sessions on track on these than I did on the PS4's and felt they took longer to overheat. Obviously they are a road not track tyre though.
  17. Like
    Church got a reaction from 3782mc in Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?   
    Well, then it just ups the statistic, that these mounts unlike whiteline com-c so far work fine for most and can be considered for those that wish more camber w/o compromising NVH.
  18. Like
    Church got a reaction from 3782mc in Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?   
    Hmm, from looks of those LCAs, they have also adjustment of track .. but doesn't that adjustment not only changes track, but also changes camber? And toe adjusment, doesn't it change both toe & camber? In general, by that painted line over trick over you may check everything that is adjustable in suspension, to see culprit, which had moved, not just camberbolts. Also, what struts you have? Maybe height adjustable? Do adjusting collars stay snug? In general, as many using camberbolts also auto-x or HPDE their cars including going over kerbs, and for most camberbolts stay as they were when tightened, i suspect something else at fault. If for camberbolts themselves - then eg. misused some type of grease which may reduce friction and increase chance of slip.
    If it's single clunk over bumps .. hmm, i'd check state of bushings and wheel bearing. Metallic clunk .. especially i'd check state of pillowball bushings, if somewhere are such, and also if some tie/endlink doesn't rub somewhere. For me source of metallic clunk over some bumps was eg. when topmounts where pillowball camberplates :), hence what i wished to fix by reverting to rubber topmounts but retaining extra camber. Seen cases in forums of eg. some aftermarket suspension/coilovers/swaybars combo, where with specific endlink length it rubbed when that corner was bottomed out.
  19. Thanks
    Church got a reaction from 3782mc in Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?   
    Hmm, interesting. Can you post a link, what are those widetrack LCAs?
    As for camberbolts, weird. Imho something is off/wrong. They shouldn't slip, normally torqued, they don't for most, if they do, probably there had been some some heavy hit to suspension, that might aswell also bend something. Hmm, maybe you have applied some antiseize grease or alike? (which should increase torque value to provide same level of friction to not slip .. maybe even past camberbolt shearing torque). Well, regarding camberbolts usage i may add two hints i've seen in forums: 1) when adjusting alignment, at end worth to paint line over bolt head & joint, so that one can see, if it has moved or not, and one can easily turn back to orig position, 2) seen DIY ways to ensure for bolts to never slip (though they were mentioned more in context of bolt within larger, slotted strut hole, less about lobed camberbolts) - to glue it. Saw mentions of eg. blue loctite, paint or even fingernail paint , to apply under washer sides and head of the bolt and under flange of the nut.
    Also, can you be more specific on describing that clunking noise? I wonder if it is from topmounts at all. Issues with topmounts noises usually are when their bearing binds, so then when turning wheel lock to lock there might be noises of coil spring "skipping" in spring perch.
    But that binding bearing / skipping spring noise is just from turning wheel, not exactly clunking when driving over bumps, as you wrote, so makes me think if topmount is source of that at all?
  20. Like
    Church got a reaction from 3782mc in Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?   
    To me was more actual (in track use context) total camber i could net. As in, if i could or couldn't get front camber to -3 w/o resorting to install camberplates or not.
    BTW, you still have option of powerflex bushings. Imho they might be safer possible issues wise. Those eccentric LCA bushings go in rearward joint, that, if i get it right, mostly moves in just one axis, unlike front LCA bushing, where eg. eccentric whiteline bushings for some fail.
  21. Like
    Church got a reaction from 3782mc in Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?   
    Hmm, so far no complaints, "just works" and no issues to report. For about, hmm, IIRC ~ 5K miles and coincidentally also 2 trackdays. I'm now fighting with other suspension parts problems .. as in it seems that unexpectedly hard to buy bilstein B6, with most sellers inquired turning out restocking with those no sooner then in two months
  22. Like
    Church got a reaction from willclarke in New car   
    "Depends". There are such that buy it purely for sportish-coupe-ish looks, there are such, that decided upon online video reviews raving about it's handling. Some that like to play around, and some that want absolute performance. Thing is .. grippy tires turn to very different type of handling, and one thing stock not that powerful/torqy engine and not exactly sport-level-stiff suspension paired with limited grip tires, and another - if you pair it with grippy & wide tires (like some do so .. interestingly often guiding in that not for grip, but for "looks"). Lot of points that were voiced in those reviews, lot of first impressions from first drives may become moot. It's not as if it will make car worse, grippy tires will make it - different. And i've seen not only threads of "i installed better tires X, car should have come as such from factory", but also threads like "what other tires would feel like primacies", and where people reverted tire change due not liking grippier/not playful change, or loosing steering sharpness and alike.
    To each his own. Different people may have different subjective preferences. Imho simply worth experiencing both ways so that choice is done in educated fashion, by knowing what one will like best, what changes one wishes over what has been before. I myself have had my share of fun on primacies and now moved up for more capable tires on track, but i certainly not regret of having driven on those and wouldn't write them off as something inherently bad.
  23. Like
    Church reacted to Lauren in New car   
    Hello Dave, welcome aboard.
    I've had my car seven years and have driven 148,000 miles in it from new. In that time I've had the opportunity to try different tyres. I've also driven a fair amount of other people's GT86's too. 
    I kept the Primacy tyre for the first 25,000 miles or so. I think it's good to learn the balance of the car with this tyre. You can play with it at low speeds and it's a lot of fun, bringing out the playful nature of what is an excellent and well balanced chassis. The Primacy tyre is also fantastic fun on track if you so wish. After about 4 laps they go off, but stay consistent and you can just slide and drift the car all day. They last really well too. 
    That said, they aren't the most progressive tyre and it can be a bit tricky in the wet. Yes in low temperatures in greasy conditions they can prove tricky, though that is true of any tyre. 
    Everyone will tell you to fit Michelin Pilot 4 tyres. Whilst they are a great tyre, they take away from the playfulness of the chassis. They are a a great choice if you are not a confident or experienced driver as for the most part they will totally tame the car and you'll feel more confident. I have these on my car because I sprint my car and they are the most competitive tyre in class, giving around a 1.5-2 second advantage on a sprint lap. Yes, at high speeds you can still slide the car and have fun, providing you are committed, but the speeds at which you do this mean that you will not really be able to do so on the public road. 
    The PS4 is great in the wet too. In fact they are utterly brilliant in the wet, a point I have underlined whenever it is wet in the Toyota Sprint Series, which will see all of us running them at the top of the leaderboard. 
    I like the PS4, it's a great tyre. But, you have to push it to have fun on the road. 
    Another really good choice is the Yokohama Advan Sport V105. I have gone through 5 sets of these and would have carried on with them were it not for them not being competitive in the sprint series I compete in. They are perhaps the best balance between grip and playfullness for the GT86. They are more progressive than the Primacy but not as grippy as the PS4. This means you can still have fun drifting a roundabout or on a decent B-road blast. They do really well on track too and  you can slide the car around just as well as the Primacy. 
    If I wasn't competing in the sprint series I would run a V105 instead of a PS4. It makes the car far more fun to drive. 
    The other point to note is that I use stock 215/45/17 sizes albeit on a forged lightweight 17x8 wheel. If you like to play with the chassis do not make the mistake putting on wider tyres. All it does is detract from the fun and add unsprung weight. 
  24. Like
    Church got a reaction from james_ly in New car   
    Well, i'm maybe using it a bit different context, as main meaning, which can be for example googled, as "tendency of wheels to follow contours in the surface upon which it runs".
    I'm using more with meaning like - "car has way too much grip for it's capabilities" / "over-tyred" / "car can be driven without care floored everywhere, not dropping speed anywhere" / "always having more grip then needed, needing intentional very stupid driver inputs to overcome grip/traction". In exaggerated fashion - "mini on formula track slicks", car drives like tram on rails no matter what you do.
    Just that many may like for giggles some playfulness here and there, especially if those some tire chirps here and there, or small extra rear rotations, or some intentional tire spins do happen at still slow/legal speeds, and may miss with more grippier tires. With later - of course one can still loose grip .. subjective fun aside, problem being, the more grip tire has, that loosing grip now will happen eg. at higher speeds, in more abrupt manner, with less reaction time to correct.
    Of course i've seen also line of thought - those "prius" primacies have too little grip, i need to install grippy tires, now car drives "as it should come from factory" .. but from my experiences, when i still had primacies (for around 10-15K daily driven miles and then 4 trackdays, to "finish them off" :)), i still could drive on average a bit faster then (admittedly heavier or less powerful family) cars i drove before (if average speed in same roundabout counts), and yes, car will loose grip/traction when eg. giving gas mid turn, or when going in some turn faster then tire grip allows .. but that doesn't mean that tires are bad, that doesn't mean that right way to "fix" is not to adjust own driver inputs to not mindlessly push everywhere but adding in that much tire grip for it to be more then own wrong inputs may overcome. IIRC twins with stock primacy hp tires pulled 0.89 g on skidpad. I'm not willing to classify that as "bad tires", and one can drive with them without any grip/traction loss aswell .. imho there is misimpression that normal cars have more grip comes from them usually having softer suspension>more roll, which subjectively tells driver to ease off, while twins roll less, thus one guiding by subjective feel/habbits push more .. till grip loss, and then labels these tires as gripless. As to mention that they do bad in cold & wet .. well, they are not winter nor all-season tires. So even if UK winters are relatively warm and snow-less, i'd simply change to all-seasons from mid-autumn to mid-spring. When i drive in rain, i simply push less, drive slower/more careful - it's common sense to do so on other cars, why it should be wrong to do same on these cars/on primacy tires? It's driver duty to drive within car capabilities/available grip/road specifics, adjusting oneself, not requesting that only right way is to mod car to enable not minding how one drives. Yes, for example mentioned PS4 have fenomenal wet grip, to level that it surprised me, remembering track day soon after fitting them, where speed/laptime didn't drop that much in morning when track was still wet, yes, primacies grip less .. but that change is not required, and primacies are usuable, and there are good bits too in having less grip like on Chris Harris video, where he changed all four tires to space-saver donuts on AMG merc and took around track .
    So imho there is nothing wrong when buying twin to drive it on those stock primacies and they are fine for learning/familiarizing with car .. just that i wouldn't get them as next set because of price and because trackdays joined my hobby list
  25. Like
    Church got a reaction from james_ly in New car   
    Well, i'm maybe using it a bit different context, as main meaning, which can be for example googled, as "tendency of wheels to follow contours in the surface upon which it runs".
    I'm using more with meaning like - "car has way too much grip for it's capabilities" / "over-tyred" / "car can be driven without care floored everywhere, not dropping speed anywhere" / "always having more grip then needed, needing intentional very stupid driver inputs to overcome grip/traction". In exaggerated fashion - "mini on formula track slicks", car drives like tram on rails no matter what you do.
    Just that many may like for giggles some playfulness here and there, especially if those some tire chirps here and there, or small extra rear rotations, or some intentional tire spins do happen at still slow/legal speeds, and may miss with more grippier tires. With later - of course one can still loose grip .. subjective fun aside, problem being, the more grip tire has, that loosing grip now will happen eg. at higher speeds, in more abrupt manner, with less reaction time to correct.
    Of course i've seen also line of thought - those "prius" primacies have too little grip, i need to install grippy tires, now car drives "as it should come from factory" .. but from my experiences, when i still had primacies (for around 10-15K daily driven miles and then 4 trackdays, to "finish them off" :)), i still could drive on average a bit faster then (admittedly heavier or less powerful family) cars i drove before (if average speed in same roundabout counts), and yes, car will loose grip/traction when eg. giving gas mid turn, or when going in some turn faster then tire grip allows .. but that doesn't mean that tires are bad, that doesn't mean that right way to "fix" is not to adjust own driver inputs to not mindlessly push everywhere but adding in that much tire grip for it to be more then own wrong inputs may overcome. IIRC twins with stock primacy hp tires pulled 0.89 g on skidpad. I'm not willing to classify that as "bad tires", and one can drive with them without any grip/traction loss aswell .. imho there is misimpression that normal cars have more grip comes from them usually having softer suspension>more roll, which subjectively tells driver to ease off, while twins roll less, thus one guiding by subjective feel/habbits push more .. till grip loss, and then labels these tires as gripless. As to mention that they do bad in cold & wet .. well, they are not winter nor all-season tires. So even if UK winters are relatively warm and snow-less, i'd simply change to all-seasons from mid-autumn to mid-spring. When i drive in rain, i simply push less, drive slower/more careful - it's common sense to do so on other cars, why it should be wrong to do same on these cars/on primacy tires? It's driver duty to drive within car capabilities/available grip/road specifics, adjusting oneself, not requesting that only right way is to mod car to enable not minding how one drives. Yes, for example mentioned PS4 have fenomenal wet grip, to level that it surprised me, remembering track day soon after fitting them, where speed/laptime didn't drop that much in morning when track was still wet, yes, primacies grip less .. but that change is not required, and primacies are usuable, and there are good bits too in having less grip like on Chris Harris video, where he changed all four tires to space-saver donuts on AMG merc and took around track .
    So imho there is nothing wrong when buying twin to drive it on those stock primacies and they are fine for learning/familiarizing with car .. just that i wouldn't get them as next set because of price and because trackdays joined my hobby list
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