Church

To prevent potential injuries to someone sticking head or hand out of window, modern car window lifters incorporate check, to if they have some hardship rising window, on detecting of which they stop and go into this mode of not closing completely, and on twins it's also indicating with flashing window operating buttons.
Not that uncommon to see in winters if glass is frozen to seals (advise to use some rubber conditioner eg. gummipflege to reduce frosting to). Weird to see it happening not in winter.
If windows lifting mechanism didn't work after reset trick (btw, no need to wait that long as 15s, just with closed doors press and hold it 2-3s past it lowered, and then press to rise and hold 2-3s past it rised. If worked, should be observable right away, with buttons not flashing anymore, and windows operating normally), then i guess yes, something might be wrong and worth making a trip to dealership. (BTW, my memory is a bit vague on this, frozen glass to seals didn't yet happened for last years since started using said gummipflege, but it's also possible, that one needs to use the switches on door, whose window lifting controller needs to be reset)

I just relocated with adapter cable off back of headunit usb ports to inside of glovebox. Thought line goes like this, that anything plugged in clear sight (such as in usb ports in centre console) will extra motivate thieves to break in. And constant plugging in/out whenever i leave car imho redundant hassle.

Probably the time to pull out this pic

Interesting but I’d wait for feedback on the new tyre first.
Michelin have previous form for downgrading tyres, remember the PS3 being worse than the PS2.

I’ve no experience of them but there are always plenty of people selling used Gt86 Air suspension, so on that basis I doubt its much good. I assume they go back to springs.
Personally I wouldn’t want to lose my boot to all the gubbins for it and also the extra weight of it all.
Great I suppose if you’re only interested in road use, posing, #stance and shows etc But you don’t get track cars with air ride for good reason.

If car is NA i find it unlikely to have issues with rods even if abused. If overboosted with FI non built engine w/o forged internals .. but imho one can fsck up engine in this case irrelevant of FD ratio.
Short gear ratio gearset + FD is what i'd love to see in mine (so that 1st & 2nd gear stays somewhat same, but other gears come closer down). Pitty that especially former costs more then i'd willing to pay for that.

adjustable rear arms add camber adjustment. (stock for twins there is only toe adjustment in front and rear)
this traction mod modifies pickup point, as in car suspension behaves, when you transfer mass to rear, when adding gas, changing a bit traction for accelerating out of corners.
i myself get a bit of that stuff by toe-in in rear (which adds stability/self centering of that axle. it's also in stock alignment).

you left out important variable out of equation. Those "exceptional" NA engines with even higher specific power output per volume, were way less strangled by modern eco emission standards. I'm certain that be it now, those wouldn't be that "exceptional". If even Honda, maker of (in my eyes) best inline-4 engines "gave up" and went for turbo in latest type-r generations, should speak a lot about it. Now only supercar makers can still afford to develop/make "exceptional" NA engines comparable to those in past.

Why it's not meant to? Isn't it normal operating mode of it, that it with that clunk engages when asked to by A/C climate control and disengages to save fuel when wished temps reached? Obviously louder if listening with hood opened, less from inside car .. which, to keep weight light has little noise insulation on these cars.

clutch of airconditioning?

Hmm, that's dirty?
After one "track day" on "supposedly ice track" but with still enough gravel & grass ..

0W-20 is ok for daily use, especially if there are short drives and winter driving involved.
For summer only and heavier track abuse 5W-30 also can be considered, which may retain oil pressure at high rpms better imho.
It's mentioned in manual/handbook, that "If SAE 0W-20 oil is not available, SAE 5W-30 oil may be used. However, it should be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change". But as to what type of driving what suits better, imho as per above. Then again you worded as "occasional" .. imho then just don't bother with choice and go with 0W-20. I'd care more about brake pad choice and suspension alignment, then engine oil type.

One of FA20 claimed "traits" vs old EJ engines was increased efficiency .. partially gained by shaving any excess material wherever possible .. obviously that adds limitations when you want to boost to higher levels. Otherwise i'd say that FA20 is producing power & torque remarkably well for current stricter and stricter emission requirements. There is reason why most vendors (supercar makers excluded) giving up making high specific output NA engines, including traditionally among best NA 4-cyl engine makers, Honda. Latest gen civic type-r engine in my eyes marked end of NA era most. "If even they gave up"..

Well .. actually when dealership during regular maintenance supposedly did "brake diagnostics", they should have caught it, and do some overhaul job, eg. cleaning some rust, relubing, changing rubber bushings on guides and so on..
So i wouldn't exactly call it "inevitable"

No need for usage video though, there are already several EJECTO SEATO CUZ on youtube guides

No need for usage video though, there are already several EJECTO SEATO CUZ on youtube guides

There are no best pads in general. There might be many good pads for specific use. Track pads suck for daily driving, street pads soon run into limits on track.
Hence won't advise to get any "real" track pads, unless squealing sound at every stoplight & enhanced rotor/pad wear (due almost never getting them upto optimal working temps they are intended to, thus wearing down bedded layer from rotors) & dusting is your thing. Initially i suggest to keep using stock pads you got "for free" till they wear down. I usually for DD use Ferrodo DS2500.

Advise not to get Milltek. They blew it with catback for twins. Seen too many people too often had problems with to consider theirs for these cars. Even if there is lifetime warranty for original owner, changing few times exhaust with involved time to get replacement and extra work to change to fix something that should work properly in first place seems not what i'd ever wish.
Also advising not to choose exhausts from youtube vids and other people reviews. Liking or not specific sound and loudness levels is very subjective thing for later, and online video recordings of unknown recording levels and varied recording equipment & settings used also hardly is usable to decide if to buy or not. At most .. if for some specific exhaust there are many many users and all speaking positively and along the lines one expect from product. Best way is to hear specific exhaust bit combo live in person, in eg. some trackday or car meet (unfortunately due pandemia these are rare occasions nowadays) and decide from that if one likes or not.

Hmm? Legal in what sense? What are requirements for catback to be legal in Spain? Having something like TUV certificate? Or having not higher then specific loudness level? Or to not touch in any way existing catalisators? If later, then all catbacks should be legal, as they by name & definition are further back from cats, cat-backs.

Lucky for them you didn't drive the fire engine on track then! Imagine the embarassment being passed by one of those!

Most common notchiness twins owners with MT gearbox observe - is harder to get into 2nd when cold. Most ignore, as it goes away after 5min of driving.
Now if it's hard to get 2>3 .. imho it's something else. Unfortunately i don't know well, what it might be and how to fix. One thing i'd try, is to adjust plate that positions lever at right places .. was it reverse lockout plate? If that doesn't help .. while oil change is relatively simplest/cheapest thing to do, so worth trying for that reason, but i somewhat doubt if it will fix (after all, other gear engagement is fine?), i suspect something wrong with gearbox of this specific car. But as it's 2018 .. there should be warranty, no? Make dealership fix/replace it. Disassembly of gearbox to inspect synchros/gears and-or replace will take long time and will cost a lot. New gearbox costs extraorbitant sums (IIRC ~4K?). If warranty is not an option, i'd also explore to get used gearbox (600-1K), as imho it would be cheaper and quicker then disassembly/overhaul/cost of parts/time to receive them

Normal price for high-end forged wheel. Most first tier forged wheel manufacturers price theirs similar. Volks will cost similar, i don't think that some TE-37/ZE40/CN28 will cost less. And if it's lowest weight about, TWS T66-F of 16x7 size weight 4.82kg (17x8 6.32kg).

It's everything wrong with paying own money to make car, which is often chosen for handling as driver's car, handle worse, for sake of arguable change of looks few if any but owner will notice, and probably guided by several misconceptions. Things "gained" with staggered setup: inability to even out wear by rotating wheels, limited tire choice that has both sizings available, way more understeery car, twice harder to find/source single replacement wheel in case of damage, harder to find buyers for staggered wheel set later on. And as one of reasons to go staggered was probably to fit widest tires one can, not only car will loose playfulness, but tire cost probably also will be doubled.

Can you please check your Spam / Junk folders, confirmation emails are in there, I just checked our email server logs and they are delivered to your address.