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Church

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Everything posted by Church

  1. Church

    2021 GT86 and BRZ

    Rumours of next having turbo or a bit higher displacement have surfaced again and again every year. Never happened in past years, and high (imho 90%) probability won't happen in future either. Especially now, when to past reasons is added another one - such souped up twin competing with low-trim 4-cyl supra. Imho these rumours stem from two things, most obvious being simple wish for having more stock power by many that are less appreciating for what it is and expecting more strait line oumph (ignoring that it will go against original conception of "good enough for cheap" and certain to add 5-10K to sticker price, rather cutting potential buyers amount that can afford it, or at least nullifying any actual profits to manufacturer), and second being usual journalistic guess .. but what if it will happen, then their yet another rumour/guess will add some extra credibility and extra visits to their site/press/person voicing that rumour, increasing advertisement profit.
  2. Church

    Touch and Go bluetooth issues

    My first guess would be to blame smartphone software / it's audio mixing implementation aswell .. except OP mentioned that with other output (BT headset on motorcycle) very same phone, very same software works fine. 😕
  3. Church

    Touch and Go bluetooth issues

    Gmaps audio volume .. check volume within smartphone. Waze .. don't know. While i use waze for navigation, i hate when voice instructions interrupt played music in abrupt (and frequent, at each turn) way, so i disable nav voice, and just quickly glance on visual output. (phone mount being in place that doesn't require to take off eyes far from normal driving one to glance on phone screen, helps)
  4. Church

    Knocking sound

    Are there few loud knocking noises when you suddenly floor accel (better heard at low speed, when not drowning in tire noise). If yes, then i'd check direct injector seals.
  5. Try asking directly in subaru dealership. Though imho something wrong with part number. IIRC most subaru part numbers are mostly numbers with two letters mid part-number.
  6. Church

    Help Trying to get pop and bangs

    Except if it's old twin with never updated old stock ecu tune. In B01C,d/A01G,l in may 2013 there were ignition transient related updates to fix not working that in earlier tunes, which could result in damaging direct injector seals due excessive detonation for those that track and change gears at high rpms. It's possible that several 2012-2013-2014 cars were flashed with earlier tunes in factory (700C,D,G,l/A00C,D,G,l), and some dealerships never update ecu tunes to never revisions. Was the case with mine, first registered in spring 2014, and still carrying A00 tune after all regular servicing visits to dealership for few 5 years.
  7. Church

    Help Trying to get pop and bangs

    There might be specific way how to engage it, i guess, just like non-standard features like eg. flat foot shifting and so on. Maybe specific clutch/throttle application. Too lazy to search, as not much interested in it. Then again, maybe TD somehow missed enabling it in tune. If you bought said tune and asked for it to be there, you are better off contacting them describing your issue, not forum, imho.
  8. Church

    Help Trying to get pop and bangs

    Pops & bangs come from ecu tune. By keeping injecting fuel and adjusting ignition and exhaust valve timings with such "feature" in ecu tune unburnt fuel gets thrown out in exhaust where it further burns/detonates producing those bangs. It's not as if cat deletion is how to get those, just that with such tune cats won't live long but can soon/easily be damaged, thus better not done on car with still catalisators in it. My own view would be to not bother with such things. To me unless those bangs are from real function such as turbo misfiring system/blow off valve or alikes, hearing such bangs from NA engine seems a bit too much of posing (alongside would be hated by all neighbors & becoming cop magnet). One thing is just reasonably louder exhaust, another something that rather hurts performance or damages parts. Imho not worth it. Like fitting uber-oversized rear wing on car that is only daiily driven, with mostly biggest impact being hurt fuel economy due increased drag.
  9. Church

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    Worth understanding that these mounts don't magically increase travel. They allow to retain travel when you overlower car by relocating upper mountpoint higher when otherwise one would need to lower car that much at expense of travel. If one doesn't lower to unwise amounts (possibly running into other issues, such as increased CV joint wear and fscked up geometry, and doesn't also get things like diff riser kit & roll center adjustment kits), but keeps it within range of adjustment of separate height adjustment, then such mounts serve no other function but that of emptying wallet. "2 inches of extra rear shock travel"? When reasonable lowering for twins is usually mentioned to keep within 1inch? As for ground-scraping slammers for looks .. i doubt they need any good shocks at all. I highly doubt good handling of car and coilover quality/performance is in any priority to them, so why pay extra for Ohlins + accompanying extra lowering hardware in such case.
  10. Church

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    Well, imho good adjustable shocks should be able to accommodate +/-30% spring rate change. As for MP20/MP21, IIRC they are essentially same, just that MP21 is German TUV approved and has rubber spring seats. So if there are any damping changes, then imho they might be vs earlier, MI20 shocks with stock 60/60Nm springs and included Ohlins camberplates in set. Hmm, that sticker .. i wonder if it's for shock itself, or just for that "cup" with threads for height adjustment and mounting hole to suspension arm .. if later, it might be from generic Ohlins parts-bin and to be in many kits (eg. for some other Subaru cars), and not linked what valving in shock "core" with shims used is.
  11. Church

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    While CSG spec Flex A or SRC or RCE Tarmac and clubsport ones (KW/ST based) sound promising (and i also extend that with 949 racing Xidas shocks (many from US miata track crowd swear by those, so might turn out very competitive too) .. there is big BUT. shipping/import costs & non-locality for warrantying & servicing. For example, even if KW (in Germany) made by RCE valving spec theirs .. to service them you need them to ship back to RCE@US, then they will send to KW, then back, then to you .. non-locality imho is important enough bit, unless one by large gives up potential warrantying with extra shipping cost and waiting times and will use them for whatever wear resource they have till they last. I suspect non-locality issues also with australian suspension vendors products, unless they have local dealerships in UK.
  12. Church

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    Well, it may differ where there are several mountpoints, but i guess not revolutionary, proportional to lever (wheel vs strut from LCA pivot axle) change if coilover mounts closer or further to wheel (as different lever - for same force pushed at wheel, different force on shock/spring), as alternative mount holes are close enough. I have to double check though how real spring rate should be calculated from that motion ratio. Found eg. that motion ratio needs to be squared to get wheel rate from spring rate. You can google on 0.75 motion ratio site:ft86club.com. Was mentioned in several suspension related threads. EDIT ok, this seems reputable enough source, as RCE is one of knowledgeable & well spoken of suspension vendors for twins. so indeed: "To get the "wheel" rate of the spring, or the spring rate at the wheel, you multiply the spring rate by the square of the motion ratio. So that 7k/5k is really more like 7 kg/mm front and 2.8125 kg/mm rear."
  13. Church

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    Imho one needs to keep in mind that while rears are shorter and of short travel, but it's more of challenge for shock maker, as actual rear wheel travel is higher then shock's itself, due suspension ratio of 0.75 (as shock is attached not to rear wheel hub like front mcpherson struts, but to mid of LCA. That changes also effective springrate btw).
  14. Church

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    Well, there is also such option (warning: some car porn pics ) with way more travel & capability, but due $17K price range i suspect that it won't be considered Deacon: was Nigel's Ohlins original MI20 or MP21 with softer springrates? And just Flex A, or +EDFC? BTW, how you think of Meister-s & Motons relative to eg. stock or Teins?
  15. Church

    Thoughts on Pirelli PZERO Nero Tyres?

    BTW, question on stiffness was more regarding handling feel, not comfort. As in liked sharp turn-in of PS4, and dislike higher slip-angle, subjectively less sharp turn-in of ultracs for example, that seemed both relatively a bit lazyer to follow steering input and a bit more turned wheel. Not bad, still UHP summer tire .. but i liked feel on PS4 & wishing similar in other tires
  16. Church

    Thoughts on Pirelli PZERO Nero Tyres?

    I liked PS4 on track .. except it was not that hard to overheat them, increasing wear, reducing grip. If these are similar, but cheaper, they seem to at least compensate increased track abuse wear with cost. Still feeling bad that PS4S/GYEF1SS/CS6 are not offered in 17" in Europe :(. Anyway, adding these Maxxis to consideration list for next set (alongside well spoken of in US forum track crowd GT Radial champiro sx2). Currently have Vreds Ulrac Vorti, but liking them way less then PS4 i had before.
  17. Church

    Thoughts on Pirelli PZERO Nero Tyres?

    What was grip vs PS4? How stiff are firewalls? By chance have you also tried them in wet?
  18. Reason for extra camber might bet not just to enable clearance for widest possible wheels/tires. On track extra static negative camber increases cornering grip & evens out wear instead of just ripping tire outer side. "Free extra grip" from same tires on track, and longer lasting. Another reason to increase front camber (relative to rear) might be to reduce understeer-ish bias of stock alignment. Of course, how much camber is optimal, may depend more from where most of tire wear happens, be it on track or from daily driving. Obviously not counting by relative mileage alone, but by extent of wear, as 5-10 trackdays can go through all the thread of new tire set. If just two trackdays per year, maybe more street oriented alignment averages as more optimal. If 5+ full trackdays, then probably tire set will last at most one season and it's "normal" driving wear relatively will be negligible, so worth align for track.
  19. Church

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    Having remote canisters or not imho has little relation to available bumpless shock travel. And, if anything, given that clubsport seems targeting more track and is stiffer sprung (imho might greatily compromising compliance/comfort for daily driving), and more lowering, i wouldn't be surprised if there had been even less travel. (no clue on actual data). External canisters main purposes are more volume, less overheat/more predictable functioning, maybe more adjustment options. Not affecting travel in any way. I'd rather expect less hardcore-ish V3 or V1 to have more travel. I'm still not too convinced that it's coilovers to blame for unwished handling specifics.
  20. Church

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    Ohlins have height adjustment independent from spring preload. See from spring perch, not from threaded cup on shock bottom, which can be bolted on deeper or for higher total coilover height, less, with no change to preload/travel/damping. Still, imho there seems something off. Seen also good spoken of reviews about even softer R&T, at least for driving on public roads. Hmm, btw, those ARBs cannot cause issues? Thicker/stiffer rollbars reduce roll, yes .. but they also make suspension less independent and reduce grip due overloading one from them on axle. And in some cases "making car faster" comes from driver feeling more subjective confidence to push more on flatter cornering car, not because aftermarket rollbars somehow magically gained grip. How about trying stock rollbars? I'd also think of trying out a bit more toe-in in rear, hence why i asked your current alignment numbers. If one drives on grip limit, sometimes also electronic nannies may introduce some unwished corrections, such as unexpected/abrupt stability control or "e-diff" interruptions with braking wheels during slip or if one wheel hops in air. Though i'm not sure it's wise to drive on very limit on public roads with many uncontrollable variables (oncoming traffic, blind corners, unpredictability of others in traffic, kids/pets) and where by road design mistakes may cost more (blind corners, kerbs, no run-off zones), but imho driving on some 7/10 should surface way less possible issues/limits.
  21. Church

    Replacement for Ohlins R&T

    If more suspension travel is goal, heard mentioned in that context KW (or ST, which is "budget" subbrand of KW). What is your use? Track or only those mentioned b roads? Are you absolutely sure that it's bottomed out rear shocks that make your car unstable? Have you tried adjusting shocks? Can you post your alignment numbers (i'm suspecting that rather current alignment might be culprit)? Also how exactly unstability propagates? Rear? Entering corner? Exciting corner? In straight under gas?
  22. Well, then it just ups the statistic, that these mounts unlike whiteline com-c so far work fine for most and can be considered for those that wish more camber w/o compromising NVH.
  23. Wheel bearings usually have different types of noise though. For example humming when under load such as when cornering fast with car leaning on that wheel heavier. Hmm, one thing is contstruction design/"type", other .. are all dimensions such as endlink attachment points/place same as stock? IIRC TRD rally suspension was 10-15mm higher and of different spring & damping rates, and of green color :), that's about all i know about them. But are attachment points placed same? Is shock travel same and thus endlinks travel about same? Check wheel arches, suspension arms and so on, if somewhere there aren't some rubbing marks. It might be missed if car is steady for maintenance, or one at most lightly can swing it, when something like that happens only during specific stage of driving (such as case above mentioned for bearings), eg. when during bump it gets fully compressed. Hmm, fully compressed .. btw, how are things with bumpstops on those struts? Sometimes source of noise might be from unexpected source and take long time to debug (especially if it was after several changes/mods done at same time and especially if it propagated after longer time). For example for me not that long ago such noise was braided brake line for rear right wheel. Lot of time was lost trying to find where/what in suspension during it's movement over bumps or when one swinged car produced noises .. it was brake line that moved around rubbing in bracket, that producing noise during compression of rear suspension on bumps. 3hours lost on test drives, checking just about anything in rear suspension, on debugging that stupid noise actual source
  24. Hmm, from looks of those LCAs, they have also adjustment of track .. but doesn't that adjustment not only changes track, but also changes camber? And toe adjusment, doesn't it change both toe & camber? In general, by that painted line over trick over you may check everything that is adjustable in suspension, to see culprit, which had moved, not just camberbolts. Also, what struts you have? Maybe height adjustable? Do adjusting collars stay snug? In general, as many using camberbolts also auto-x or HPDE their cars including going over kerbs, and for most camberbolts stay as they were when tightened, i suspect something else at fault. If for camberbolts themselves - then eg. misused some type of grease which may reduce friction and increase chance of slip. If it's single clunk over bumps .. hmm, i'd check state of bushings and wheel bearing. Metallic clunk .. especially i'd check state of pillowball bushings, if somewhere are such, and also if some tie/endlink doesn't rub somewhere. For me source of metallic clunk over some bumps was eg. when topmounts where pillowball camberplates :), hence what i wished to fix by reverting to rubber topmounts but retaining extra camber. Seen cases in forums of eg. some aftermarket suspension/coilovers/swaybars combo, where with specific endlink length it rubbed when that corner was bottomed out.
  25. Hmm, interesting. Can you post a link, what are those widetrack LCAs? As for camberbolts, weird. Imho something is off/wrong. They shouldn't slip, normally torqued, they don't for most, if they do, probably there had been some some heavy hit to suspension, that might aswell also bend something. Hmm, maybe you have applied some antiseize grease or alike? (which should increase torque value to provide same level of friction to not slip .. maybe even past camberbolt shearing torque). Well, regarding camberbolts usage i may add two hints i've seen in forums: 1) when adjusting alignment, at end worth to paint line over bolt head & joint, so that one can see, if it has moved or not, and one can easily turn back to orig position, 2) seen DIY ways to ensure for bolts to never slip (though they were mentioned more in context of bolt within larger, slotted strut hole, less about lobed camberbolts) - to glue it. Saw mentions of eg. blue loctite, paint or even fingernail paint , to apply under washer sides and head of the bolt and under flange of the nut. Also, can you be more specific on describing that clunking noise? I wonder if it is from topmounts at all. Issues with topmounts noises usually are when their bearing binds, so then when turning wheel lock to lock there might be noises of coil spring "skipping" in spring perch. But that binding bearing / skipping spring noise is just from turning wheel, not exactly clunking when driving over bumps, as you wrote, so makes me think if topmount is source of that at all?
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