Jump to content

Church

Members
  • Content Count

    1283
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Everything posted by Church

  1. State also your use&driving type/tires/goals&preferences.
  2. Church

    Fuel when lower compression

    When one drops compression (usually because adding some forced induction of sorts), you still would be better off running better quality fuel due said FI, which with extra boosting blows in more air & fuel, "reverting compression change", to not knock much. Also boosting engine puts higher load/wear on it, more reasons to feed it quality fuel, to reduce knock.
  3. Church

    Spigot ring issue

    Conflicting info from whom? From misc endusers, views of whom have been nurtured from various sources, including "reliable" gut feel & myths they heard? . If even wheel manufacturers and tuning shops say that hubcentric centering rings are convenience item to ease mount but not required for properly mounted wheel, i see no reason to not trust them. So if you have those wheels you can start using them right away, just torque lugnuts properly, in star fashion and for right torque value, recheck torque after driving some mileage, and you should be ok/safe. For said convenience in background you can search/find hubcentric rings that fit your wheels, but their absence shouldn't keep you from using wheels already now. Normally it's friction between hub and tightened down wheel that keeps wheel in place. With great force (as probably with heavy hits you'll rather break/bend wheel, instead of it slipping from hub). And properly tightened in star fashion lugnuts with conical lug seat do the centering job. Hubrings just ease putting wheel on (especially on cars with lug bolts instead of lug nuts, like eg. bmw). Even with hubcentric ring, if wheel is not properly tightened, it will still slip and break studs (or lug bolts) even with ring in place, ring alone or studs/lugbolts(that are not designed for strong enough side bending force) just cannot carry any meaningful load such as car weight.
  4. Church

    Spigot ring issue

    My advise would be driving without them. They are only there to simplify a bit putting on. They do nothing once wheel properly torqued down. If you are ok with slightly less convenient putting wheel on, there is no drawback with driving w/o them.
  5. If you mostly only track car, OE alignment is very off for such use. Mostly - due insufficient camber all around, especially in front. Car is too understeer biased and sees heavy camber wear for tires with ripped tire outer sides while almost no wear on insides (and due such uneven contact for use at track also reduced grip). Though OE brakes usually is first limit one hits at track/HPDE (but with not too grippy tires usually good track pads and better brake fluid might be sufficient), OE alignment is next limitation one hits. If by OE there is zero front camber, -1dg rear camber, then more optimal for track would be -3 to -3.5 degrees front camber and -2.5dg rear camber.
  6. adjustable rear arms add camber adjustment. (stock for twins there is only toe adjustment in front and rear) this traction mod modifies pickup point, as in car suspension behaves, when you transfer mass to rear, when adding gas, changing a bit traction for accelerating out of corners. i myself get a bit of that stuff by toe-in in rear (which adds stability/self centering of that axle. it's also in stock alignment).
  7. Church

    Wheel nut covers

    Hmm .. try measuring internal hole diameter and then google for "plastic cap XX mm"? Imho most open ended lugnut covers are either made by manufacturer specific to theirs, or for most generic, external hex ones.
  8. you left out important variable out of equation. Those "exceptional" NA engines with even higher specific power output per volume, were way less strangled by modern eco emission standards. I'm certain that be it now, those wouldn't be that "exceptional". If even Honda, maker of (in my eyes) best inline-4 engines "gave up" and went for turbo in latest type-r generations, should speak a lot about it. Now only supercar makers can still afford to develop/make "exceptional" NA engines comparable to those in past.
  9. Adjusting with those bushings is more cumbersome. I have them in "maxed out" position and never touched since, doing adjustment with camberbolts (previously on stock struts and now on bilstein B6 ones). As for Ohlins struts .. why they don't take camber bolts? They have slotted mount holes on strut? Then use those slots for adjustment. Or reuse in larger top hole "crashbolts" like those in smaller lower hole. Or they need some nonstandard sized, smaller bolts, so that generic lobed camberbolts for twins won't fit?
  10. Mostly equal change wise. As in there were some differences even with stock everything, so these won't "fix" or make it worse. And i have other parts changing geometry (eg. i had powerflex eccentric bushings and two camberbolt sets too) prior install of these mounts, and difference that needed to be adjusted. Just get in addition to topmounts at least single camberbolt set. It's relatively cheap, even more common and quicker to get, and in addition to allow precise dialing of even alignment also up adjustment range, whereas mentioned pedder topmounts just add fixed amount of camber. As stock, our cars have only toe adjustment in front and rear. And as installing them asks for undoing several screws/mounts, and also camber changes are linked with toe changes, alignment after install of these topmounts is highly advised anyway.
  11. As usual with regular maintenance, mileage or year, "whichever comes first". There are things that wear from driving, there are things that degrade by age. For maintaining proper history of maintenance one needs to change at right dates even if driven very little (as frequently is, in these covid times, at least those, that work now from "home office").
  12. Church

    Reverse light switch

    reminds me that original procedure of changing sparkplags involved lifting engine, and due that also was expensive (and also with right tools people managed to DIY change spark plugs without engine lift).
  13. Church

    Spotted - two Giallo's in two days

    Don't. Just as trying to drive as passenger in rear seat of these cars. Theoretically somewhat possible, but you'll feel bad if trying, quickly. Not as if sleeping is bad in ours because "sporty" or because "coupe", in most cases, wherever one has to sleep in (any) car seat, you'll wake up all stiff/in pain due uncomfortable sleeping pose. I recall one friend of mine that chose one specific SUV for that purpose to be able to sleep in it during some fishing trips, that must have feature for it was for seats to be foldable in way for completely flat floor for not that uncomfortable sleeping. In case if i'd use this car for long trips, i'd probably get sleeping places via booking.com or take normal tent/carpet/sleeping bag with me to sleep outside car.
  14. Church

    Weird noise?

    Why it's not meant to? Isn't it normal operating mode of it, that it with that clunk engages when asked to by A/C climate control and disengages to save fuel when wished temps reached? Obviously louder if listening with hood opened, less from inside car .. which, to keep weight light has little noise insulation on these cars.
  15. Church

    Spotted - two Giallo's in two days

    Storage space in twins is surprisingly big once rear seats are lowered. Doesn't help if one cannot get too wide stuff through small/narrow opening though like eg. for large tv set and alikes. Still, no problems carrying all four wheels with track tires to track, or skis to mountain and alike..
  16. Church

    Post your GT86 / BRZ pic of day!

    Hmm, that's dirty? After one "track day" on "supposedly ice track" but with still enough gravel & grass ..
  17. Church

    Weird noise?

    clutch of airconditioning?
  18. I never limited myself to one country shops for car parts. Have bought from JP, USA, UK, DE, and last one even from Canada with shipping via US shipping proxy :). I buy what i need wherever i find it cheapest. Especially because i don't live in UK and local (in LV) carpart offering is scarce and often overpriced. As for diff riser kits .. IIRC most were also solid metal ones, thus probably will also increase NVH. Well, not a problem for me, as i never considered making car worse for sake of arguable looks, and it's better both for comfort and handling wise to actually let suspension do it's job, even more so on cars that don't have much bumpstop free shock travel to begin with. Mine still at stock heigth and even with such there are some kerbs i cannot park over, and on some worse badly plown roads with deep ridges (such as in my yard) i have to enjoy listening scraping ice against buffer underside. Lower even more? Never. Thus i never searched much on lowering related parts, just few bits that remained in memory from few threads on twins related forums. In your place i'd dial back lowering to that of within 1", and stop bothering about extra parts needed to fix issues caused by overlowering. As side bonus, your ride will also become more comfortable and capable of being actually used as driven car over wider road selection
  19. I'd probably think via guiding by what is usually called reasonable lowering for twins, and what is - excessive. Most commonly people say that lowering within 1 inch is former, and advise to add extra parts to fix geometry and other issues, if you lower even more (eg. said roll center correction kit, diff riser and so on).
  20. Church

    Eibach springs and coilovers

    Neil-h: in general, our cars as stock have front and rear toe adjustment. While it's nice to have camber adjustability, even more so if one wishes non-standard alignment (eg. optimized for track), for no handling artifacts (or abnormal tire wear) getting toe right is more important. Unfortunately while it's cheap to gain camber adjustability for front via camberbolts, for rear, if one wishes camber adjustability, one needs more expensive then plain camberbolts adjustable LCA-s. (there are other ways too, but one - eccentric bushings while are cheaper, are PITA to adjust and work to install them may rise total cost to more then LCA+work, and another - adjustable UCAs are even more expensive then LCAs).
  21. Church

    Eibach springs and coilovers

    Fitting/mounting is relatively easy. But after that one needs to perform alignment, which in DIY form is major PITA, takes lot of time, and usually makes sense to be done in shop on laser alignment rig.
  22. Church

    Post your GT86 / BRZ pic of day!

    Wish you to enjoy it's ownership
  23. Church

    Oil for occasional track days

    0W-20 is ok for daily use, especially if there are short drives and winter driving involved. For summer only and heavier track abuse 5W-30 also can be considered, which may retain oil pressure at high rpms better imho. It's mentioned in manual/handbook, that "If SAE 0W-20 oil is not available, SAE 5W-30 oil may be used. However, it should be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change". But as to what type of driving what suits better, imho as per above. Then again you worded as "occasional" .. imho then just don't bother with choice and go with 0W-20. I'd care more about brake pad choice and suspension alignment, then engine oil type.
  24. Church

    Torque low - why?

    One of FA20 claimed "traits" vs old EJ engines was increased efficiency .. partially gained by shaving any excess material wherever possible .. obviously that adds limitations when you want to boost to higher levels. Otherwise i'd say that FA20 is producing power & torque remarkably well for current stricter and stricter emission requirements. There is reason why most vendors (supercar makers excluded) giving up making high specific output NA engines, including traditionally among best NA 4-cyl engine makers, Honda. Latest gen civic type-r engine in my eyes marked end of NA era most. "If even they gave up"..
  25. Church

    Brake Pedal Effort??

    Well .. actually when dealership during regular maintenance supposedly did "brake diagnostics", they should have caught it, and do some overhaul job, eg. cleaning some rust, relubing, changing rubber bushings on guides and so on.. So i wouldn't exactly call it "inevitable"
×