willclarke

It looks like a 8mm bolt to me. If the head size is 12mm it is 100% 8mm bolt according to the JIS standard. You will be able to find some bolts in Screwfix or ToolStation which are 8mm but with 13mm head as we use the ISO over here. Preferably look to get high tensile bolt.
Also look at the attached table for reference.
 
Hope it helps!

Snetterton track day for Thursday, August 29th is now in the calendar.

£161 with group discount (+ free garage) when 5 if us book

Hope to see you there

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Cool, not sure if I'll be doing this 4 person day thing yet, more keen for Snetterton but will let you know if I change my mind! Cheers

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Think I'll join you at Snetterton on the 29th Aug mate. Do you have any discount ahead for this one?

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The stock tyres are hilarious after about four laps, they go off, but are really consistent. Remember mine on stock tyres the first time I tracked it. Went pretty quick for a few laps then drifted everywhere. Great fun.

Done
Been in their shoes before, so difficult to get meaningful surveys done for studies

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So having read this and other forums, finally took the plunge and decided to get my 2012 BRZ mapped.
Contacted Mike on the 18th Feb and he was very helpful, responding quickly to my initial enquiry and patiently responded to my numerous questions.
After a bit of back and forward I decided to go for the NA Tuning Package (UEL), MTEC Uprated Spring and Whiteline Positive shift upgrade kits and since TD would have the car for the best part of the day, decided to have the Billet Cam Plate kit fitted as a preventative measure at the same time.
Everything was arranged for the 7th of March and I was up and out on the road early (5:20am)  to make the trip south from Glasgow.
Arrived at 8:30am and Mike was 15 minutes behind me to open up.  Having handed over the keys, Mike was kind enough to give me a lift to the nearby UBC business centre (3 miles away) where I had booked an office for the day, I currently work mostly remotely from home so was able to effectively work there for the day, meaning I didn’t have to use a days holiday - result!
Picked the car up at 4pm and couldn’t be happier with the upgrades - drives like a different car with the dreaded torque did almost entirely gone with the increased lower rev torque noticeable across all the gears.  Gear changes are now much snappier and the exhaust note subtly enhanced.
Had a bit of a blether with Mike before heading off home, and ooh'd and ahh'd about possibly getting a turbo at some point in the future as well as a couple of options for dealing with the cars suspension, which I have been unhappy about almost from the day I bought it in the summer of 2015. Previous owner had lowered the car on Eibach sportline springs and I subsequently upgraded to 18" rims with the rear end especially, being very unforgiving with the car bouncing badly on rough roads.
Long story short, I was heading back down the M6 two weeks later, this time to get the BC Racing coilovers and the TD Super Resonated CAT back exhaust (my stock exhaust was corroded badly and very slightly beginning to blow so seemed like a good enough excuse).
I have not stopped smiling since ... ride quality and handling are 100% improved and the exhaust note is just loud enough to be noticeable, without being in your face but at the same time very civilised when cruising on the motorway.  
Can’t speak highly enough about Mike, Nick and the rest of the guys at TD. I was well looked after, their prices are competitive and the work has been carried out to a high standard. I have spent a fair chunk of change in anyone’s book in a short space of time, but every upgrade has had a noticeable and very positive effect, all in all it's like having a new car.
My only dilemma now is which kidney am I selling to fund the turbo upgrade? ...

Rich put a fuel cleaner in, but I must admit it went away... I would sometimes press the power button without the clutch if it's been sat a while just to prime the pump for a little bit (you'll hear it whine) and then start the engine.
 
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A bit of heatsoak can really mess with engine starting, as the perceived air temperature is out of whack. I'm thinking about minutes rather than hours between starts though.
An underperforming spark plug/ignition coil can lead to a weak start too. If it continues I'd think about inspecting them for signs of fouling, corrosion or arcing as well as checking battery condition under load. Shame the plugs are tricky to whip out.

I guess I'm the only one happy with how quick their 86 is.
It's slower than my last two cars, but handles so much better.

Plus, it does skids.

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Honda were getting 100bhp/1lr 20 years ago, when emission requirements were way way way more lax. It was getting harder and harder to keep on and even they, in my eyes best NA inline-4 makers, gave up. Current type-R has forced induction - does it says something to you? High efficiency NA engines becoming thing of past (excluding poster super cars mere mortals won't own) and in that light i have high respect for toyobaru for FA20.

Both I believe, getting some lovely pops and crackles at the moment! I have it booked in Saturday to a 'friendly' garage.

It'll probably throw a CEL from o2 sensor (assuming it's catless manifold you're looking at) and then you'll lose cruise control but not sure if this can be cleared with torque app each time. Also heard risk of it running slightly rich if not mapped but don't think this is a big deal short term

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Ah my thread has been brought back to life.
Fyi I got the TD na pack and am happy with the decision. 
After a few track days with it fitted I am happy with the power for now as it has made enough of a difference to stock to make it more fun and drivable.

So earlier today on parking up I went to get my phone out of the centre box. As I opened the lid it came off in my hand. Luckily it seems to be a fairly simple fix, so I thought I'd share in case it happens to anyone else. There's two pins which act as the hinge, and in my case one had come off and fallen inside the lid itself.

Right hand side has the hinge pin in place. Left one is missing.
 

Turn the lid upside down. You'll see 6 screw caps - use a flat bladed screw driver or similar to pop these off. Under neath you'll find allen bolts holding the lid together.

Undo them all and hopefully you'll find the lost pin inside.

The pin itself is split, so it expands along its length and holds itself in place. Put it back in so that the expanded end is inside the lid.


Put the lid back in the car and then reassemble. Easy
 
 

I will add that if you don't want this problem to manifest itself again glue the pin in, then you aren't just relying on a press fit.
 I had the same issue, for those who do this don't go mad with pushing the pin back in either, being tapered and made of metal it will split the plastic case of the arm rest! I just noticed mine had a crack in it before I went any further. Superglue works just fine.

I didn't know about RRG when I brought my car from the Toyota dealer in Preston (wasn't aware or the two UK forums either until after being an owner), but thankfully by the time my first service came around I'd picked up on the good reviews and discussions on the forums and so have used them every year since. Funnily enough when my local dealer phoned me to book me in for that first service and I told them that I was going to use RRG instead the girl on the phone laughed and said something like 'oh no, not another one, I'll take you off the list as well'  so I think even then other dealers were well aware of the RRG effect on their return business!

Will,
 
Letters haven't been send out yet I believe. Once I got one through the post I will look at booking it with Rich at RRG and probably do the spark plugs when the engine is out as the car is 5 years old now. 

Will,
I live in Kettering and I will be doing the trek to RRG and getting lift on the way back as they are the only place I trust. When I had a chat with Adrian at Fensport he also said that Listers Toyota Cheltenham are not bad too but never tried them. 

RRG Macclesfield are based in Macclesfield funnily enough  Bit of a trek form Peterborough for the OP, but it is a good place to get to know for any 86/BRZ owner as Rich and Gary really care about our cars, have no issue with mods (and will supply and fit many of them) and in my (and plenty of others) experience are the best main dealer you'll find and I'm always happy to travel down to them from where I live.

It's not a myth, but usually the adaptation is toward safety and economy rather than "gains". A remap takes away some safety margin, or puts some back in if you're adding boost.
Things that can change:
Derestricted intake (e.g. less effective air filter), leans out AFR, ECU applies a little extra fuel to compensate Dodgy intake misleads air meter, car makes more peak power by leaning out the AFR. May self-correct over time. Freer breathing engine makes more usable power - irrespective of fuelling, an engine under less load can generate more torque. Exhaust pressure is load, intake restriction is load. It may make a little extra on top due to unexpected leanness. Things that cannot change without intervention:
The base map. That safety margin for crap fuel, bad weather, high altitude and such is still there. Trims have upper and lower limits - you can't just add a turbo and expect the ECU to compensate. You might just about be able to handle a low pressure supercharger, but you would be living right on the edge. It doesn't know you need a different AFR, but it can at least add more fuel to match the observed airflow. Valve timing and lift settings, ignition timing In "closed loop" at low load the ECU uses the O2 sensor in the exhaust to compute a short-term fuel trim which it combines with long term and base map to decide fuelling. That informs the next fuel injection cycle and the long term fuel trim is tweaked. In "open loop" at high load, the ECU ignores the O2 sensor and blindly applies the long term trim to the base map. The learning is in the range of +/- 20%.
Disconnecting the battery and flushing the trims is usually less helpful than normal driving.

To fully gain yes, but the power and torque gains are low compared to someone who went stock upwards. So if budget and/or availability of a reputable tuner is hard, you can benefit from the manifold only.

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Kinda looks like the ecu adjusted pretty well by itself to the new hardware even before the map!

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No worries, with it being one of the less common choices hopefully it saves someone the same hassle if they pick the cobra. Yes bud, mean the engine undertray. 

Just a heads up to anyone else considering the cobra. It badly rubs on the shield in quite a large spot.  Now at Toyota having brought it in due to the rattles that started to appear a couple days ago, tech just took me through and showed me. They're now attempting to mod the shield as well as my bank balance. Make sure if you get this fitted you or the garage mod the shield. 😪