TommyC

Thanks to everyone who attended. I hope everyone had a good time despite the weather.

In my limited understanding and own thoughts regarding this, a failure could vary from little impact to quite catasrophic! (I've had some training in early failure detection and oil debris monitoring for Gas Turbine lubrication systems, but only training).
Firstly I imagine there have been some impurities in the metal, or problems with heat treatment, which would instigate a crack and eventual failure. (Ever seen a broken suspension spring? You can normally see where the failure originated when you look at the jagged surfaces of the failure point).
Depending on where the crack/failure is in the spring may mean it just stops holding the valve closed meaning no compression and no push on the piston. This could also lead to valve-piston collision (if the engine is an interference type). If it's just a small part of the spring (half a coil maybe) then this could break free and float around, get jammed in othe moving parts causing significant damage (wedged in other vale springs and mashed, getting jammed under the cam lobes, interfering with variable valve timing/lift parts and jamming those, floating round in the oil system and jamming other moving components).
It's really not a good situation however I think about it 😵
If Toyota/Subaru are going to replace them FOC then I say don't hesitate!! 
Sorry to be alarmist, but I feel it's not something I'd be putting off!
I'd say it's more likely to occur with higher mileage due to the strain (stress over time) of repeated compression-extension cycles.
It quite a complex thing to analyse/predict, which is why I think the recall covers so many vehicles...

Hope you guys have a great time but due to unforeseen events shall we say I won’t be coming along


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Well I've booked in for the work at TD at the end of the month.. will see what the pre-remap dyno run says in comparison to the baseline taken pre-BPB's being put in a couple of months ago...
Then it's a case of seeing what the re-mapping makes of the standard TD manifold, overpipe with the BPB''s hence them keeping it a bit longer than a normal remap session.

From what I understand Direct Injection systems cause a lot more carbon buildup than a regular engine because of higher compression and a better burn. There are a few discussions about this on various GT86 forums but I don't actually know any UK GT86 owner that's had this issue yet.
The way they clear it out is to fire walnut shell chippings at the build up under high pressure. Apparently its the best way to clear it off without doing any damage to the engine.
Quick google - https://www.terracleanswaffham.co.uk/walnut-blasting
My understanding is that carbon buildup in DI Engines is down to poor maintenance and I've also heard that you can get carbon buildup if you only ever drive for economy (not sure how much truth there is in the latter).
But seeing as my 86 is my dedicated track car I'm happy that it should never get carbon buildup. It only ever sees low rpm on the way to and from the track lol

Toyota will be issuing a recall on cars manufactured between April 2012 and May 2013. They have identified a defect in the composition of the material used in the valve springs which may cause fatigue and potentially failure. 
They will send out letters in December/January for the work to be done. It's an engine out job as surely they'll have to remove the heads to change the valve springs. 

Glad to hear you are fixed up now.
Looking at that 2nd picture though, I think they may have left their razor behind!

A redline a day keeps the walnut blast away

I've got a set fitted and I have noticed a difference in the engine being a bit quicker on acceleration, seems to pick up quicker.
I know I've sacrified the very top end of my rev range (at this time) but to be honest how often do you redline when on normal roads.
I've got a baseline dyno done at TD, so one of my things to do this month is get booked in for the manifold and overpipe fitting and remap - then I'll have the dyno's to compare the non BPB, with just BPB and then BPB + TD NA kit.

That looks really cool! 😀

Shift knob now fitted. It's a lovely shape and size in your hand 

Forget E85, you'd get even better gains with kryptonite - and it'd probably be more widely available in the UK.

Those powerblocks do well on otherwise completely stock car. For some loss near redline, they add noticeably at lower/mid rpms (which also happen to be used more at daily driving). They move "optimisation", power & torque peak to lower rpms.
They make a less sense to be used with custom ecu tune/other boltons though.
Imho best bet for NA power gains is aftermarket airfilter+catless header+ecu tune. And, if at local fuel stations available, E85 as fuel (+E85 tune or flexfuel kit & flexfuel tune).

Put simply you can get far better gains from a decent manifold, decat and remap. This is what the majority of us have done. If fitting the Crawford inlet manifold spacers is all you are going to do in terms of tuning then it could be beneficial it seems. 

I think you will find general opinion is keep your money for other things

https://motoiq.com/tested-crawford-performance-fr-s-brz-power-blocks-intake-manifold-spacers/3/

@TommyC To be honest, any sort of power upgrade on NA car is valuable. If you think you're going to stay away from Forced Induction for reliability or other reasons I recommend getting this, a decent intake, exhaust manifold and a good cat-back. All that with a remap will make a big difference. Of course, if you are planning on getting a supercharger or a turbo, you don't need to spend this amount of money on the above mentioned mods at all. So at the end of the day, it's up to you.

Hi Everyone,
Picking up my first 86 on Sunday. Fell in love with the cars as soon as I saw them but had to wait till now to actually own one. Its a 67 plate club series in the subtle orange colour. Seems to be a good community on here - I've been lurking for a while now. 
Car will remain standards for a while, mainly due to the warranty and the fact that I've had company cars for years so insurance is not so great at the moment.. But eventually I do hope to spend some money and get the thing turbo'd. 
For now I just want to drive and enjoy it... Roll on Sunday! 
 
Alex

If none of the above work you need to find a face hugger and use some of it's blood, use sparingly, a little goes a long way.
Try not to get facehugger on your face.

kik deactivate my account

In my chemistry days I had to figure what solvents to use to preferentially dissolve things. The cleaning pattern in increasing severity went thus: soapy water -> scrubby brush -> acetone -> conc. hydrochloric acid -> ultrasound bath -> piranha solution. You're still at stage two so there's a few non-dangerous options to try yet!
See if you can cadge some nail polish remover and try that on a spot. It's just acetone with some perfume in it. Try to keep it away from the plastic and rubber parts.
WD40 is a lightweight and volatile oil blend, so it may or may not do the job.

https://www.visordown.com/motorcycle-news-general-news/evo-triangle-be-fitted-speed-cameras
 
Keep an eye out everyone.

I sense many bald tyres in your future!

I've just read 38 pages of this build. 90% of it with an erection. Poor left arm saw too much car porn 

The early 1UZ that I have, has the thick Rods and can take up to 600ish before the heads need work.
The later 1UZ and subsequent 2UZ and 3UZ have much thinner rods and can only do about 400 without needing internal work. 
We're aiming for about 450 with the M122 charger.

Done a bit in last few days and it is much better now