Rich196

Back on track at Brands hatch.
 
50277277688_bd1b962995_o by Richard Beale, on Flickr

cheers for this - it was exactly that. Aircon now lovely and cold!

A church said, you do not require to change suspension to use a BBK however, if with you current choice of tyres you can lock the wheels its pointless fitting a BBK. If however your using stickier rubber and you cannot lock the brakes with them then a BBK will give you increased performance.
 
For reference have the Rayland 330mm kit:
http://www.reyland.co.uk/subaru-impreza/
 
It fits under my Rota Boost, 17x17.5 E48 with a 15mm spacer. It also fits under my XXR 527 18x8.75 E35.

you went for them then! They look great!

So with the engine out, I started to strip the block. First up was to strip off the inlet manifold and remove the fueling systems, the beauty of boxer engines it you have two of everything, two high pressure fuel rails for the DI system and two low pressure rails for the port injection etc etc....
 

 

 
Finally with some of that lot removed the main wiring loom is exposed so that it could be removed.
 

ill try and make it, someone remind me closer the time!!

Didn't think about, done it!

ill try and make it, someone remind me closer the time!!

looks really good that! Nice work!

I changed it mainly for intake temperatures on track, in that regards yes the cosworth is much much better.

However road driving, there isnt much in it. I think the sprintex might have given a bit more power lower down, before the cam,  the cosworth feels a bit stronger once on cam pull hard to the red line.

Yeh its back. That was to fill it from empty, I had to change the condenser due to a leak so I know there was nothing in it.

The filling ports are different for the two gasses, so they cannot put the wrong gas in. Take it to a garage and have them check
 

It sure is!

on the underside of the bonnet on the leading edge

I mean its not because its illegal for one, but even if you can find someone to do it, you need to change the AC filling ports as the are different for each kind of gas.
 
I got my AC R1234yf done at toyota for £70 last month.

I think the plastic piece goes on the underside of the bonnet above the alarm switch.
 

Put me dwon, I should be able to make this

The ring is very easy on pads, just throwing it out there. 
Good pads and a stock calliper will work just fine for most agreed by most here, for HARD driving to achieve a consistent and repeatable pedal throughout the day a BBK is the most sustainable way forward.

8:28 is a good lap but isnt that fast for a car of the spec. But its not down the brakes iv been quicker on STOCK CALLIPERS no problem, it the fleshy bit between the steering wheel and the seat the only thing slowing it down there.  You see that STOCK CALLIPERS aren't the limiting factor, on a track that isnt that demanding on brakes.

Another great meet, thanks Keith for organising!! 

The ring is very easy on pads, just throwing it out there. 
Good pads and a stock calliper will work just fine for most agreed by most here, for HARD driving to achieve a consistent and repeatable pedal throughout the day a BBK is the most sustainable way forward.

Another great meet, thanks Keith for organising!! 

Admittedly I have a charged car. However I started with DS2500 pads on stock callipers. 2 laps of donny and they were shot so much fade! Pedal always felt wooden from cold. I then upped the game to carbotech XP10 pads, I removed the disc stone guards and put on GT3 cooling ducts. These were night and day compared to the DS2500, bite was always there and was consistent which made modulation easy. I didn't get any fade when I did brands or Cadwell ect, the tyres would give up before the brakes did! However when it came to man sized stops I was getting fade, this was on the Nurburging GP into T1 hairpin  which was the biggest brake in F1, and Rockingham T1, when you had come off the banking into the hairpin. The common theme is a hairpin big speed 150mph to 30ish? Could have lived with this perhaps but I got through them fast, they did not last long at all. We are talking 4 track days. These pads arent cheap and I didnt see that as sustainable.....
For a spot of context:
The car I came from before the GT86 was a MK3 MX5. Even more track biased. The MX5 was on stock discs and callipers, and Carbotech XP8 pads. This car was around 1100kg, and 190 HP at the fly. It used pretty much the same size disc as the GT86. 290mm x 24mm, the MX5 was a single pot slider the GT86 a twin pot slider.
The MX5 ran Carbotech XP8 pads, and did a complete 10 track day season about 200 track miles per day, and never suffered fade and did a season on a single set of pads.
So the 86 is 150-200kg heavier than the MX5, and has another 70hp? and its was running a very similar sized disc and pad which is going to have a similar thermal capacity. Therefore to gain more thermal capacity a BBK is the only way. This would lead to no fade, greater consistency and lower pad wear. Yes I could have gone for a higher rated pad, it may have stopped the fade, however it was going to generate more heat and probably wear out as quick if not quicker.
I bit the bullet and for the Rayland BBK, Cp9200 calliper and a 330mm disc. I am using a Mintex F4R pad, these are fairly aggressive but cost around £100 so nice and cheap. The brake fade is gone, the consistency is spot on every time making modulation easy, they look great, the wear is low. Oh and the POWER. These rip your face off when you throw out the anker, its my favourite bit of the car. So you can now stop faster, with no fade lap after lap until the tyres give up.
Best track day upgrade for the car!! I would not bother if your not a keen track day goer though. If you do 1 or 2 a year for fun and your not "fast" put a decent set of pads on take the disc stone guards off and put some £20 GT3 ducts on and enjoy.
No matter what brakes you have all ways use decent fluid, you do not want to boil it and end up with no brakes!!! I use RBF600, and always bleed a pedals worth out the calliper when I have the wheels off as thats where its going to boil.

Admittedly I have a charged car. However I started with DS2500 pads on stock callipers. 2 laps of donny and they were shot so much fade! Pedal always felt wooden from cold. I then upped the game to carbotech XP10 pads, I removed the disc stone guards and put on GT3 cooling ducts. These were night and day compared to the DS2500, bite was always there and was consistent which made modulation easy. I didn't get any fade when I did brands or Cadwell ect, the tyres would give up before the brakes did! However when it came to man sized stops I was getting fade, this was on the Nurburging GP into T1 hairpin  which was the biggest brake in F1, and Rockingham T1, when you had come off the banking into the hairpin. The common theme is a hairpin big speed 150mph to 30ish? Could have lived with this perhaps but I got through them fast, they did not last long at all. We are talking 4 track days. These pads arent cheap and I didnt see that as sustainable.....
For a spot of context:
The car I came from before the GT86 was a MK3 MX5. Even more track biased. The MX5 was on stock discs and callipers, and Carbotech XP8 pads. This car was around 1100kg, and 190 HP at the fly. It used pretty much the same size disc as the GT86. 290mm x 24mm, the MX5 was a single pot slider the GT86 a twin pot slider.
The MX5 ran Carbotech XP8 pads, and did a complete 10 track day season about 200 track miles per day, and never suffered fade and did a season on a single set of pads.
So the 86 is 150-200kg heavier than the MX5, and has another 70hp? and its was running a very similar sized disc and pad which is going to have a similar thermal capacity. Therefore to gain more thermal capacity a BBK is the only way. This would lead to no fade, greater consistency and lower pad wear. Yes I could have gone for a higher rated pad, it may have stopped the fade, however it was going to generate more heat and probably wear out as quick if not quicker.
I bit the bullet and for the Rayland BBK, Cp9200 calliper and a 330mm disc. I am using a Mintex F4R pad, these are fairly aggressive but cost around £100 so nice and cheap. The brake fade is gone, the consistency is spot on every time making modulation easy, they look great, the wear is low. Oh and the POWER. These rip your face off when you throw out the anker, its my favourite bit of the car. So you can now stop faster, with no fade lap after lap until the tyres give up.
Best track day upgrade for the car!! I would not bother if your not a keen track day goer though. If you do 1 or 2 a year for fun and your not "fast" put a decent set of pads on take the disc stone guards off and put some £20 GT3 ducts on and enjoy.
No matter what brakes you have all ways use decent fluid, you do not want to boil it and end up with no brakes!!! I use RBF600, and always bleed a pedals worth out the calliper when I have the wheels off as thats where its going to boil.

Dont usually look at that page, I just go straight to the forum pages. I shall keep an eye!