nerdstrike

FWIW I managed to drop a few dBs of white noise by sticking foam on rear wheel arches behind the interior. It was a nice change for moderate effort, but you can't do that with the front wheels particularly. The GT86 suffers from quite a lot of road noise, due to the lightness/cheapness objective.

I guess once the weak parts have snapped you can turn up the boost on the remainders?

I guess once the weak parts have snapped you can turn up the boost on the remainders?

Interesting. It looks like the bumper is intended for TRD-style twin exits. I like the pseudocarbon detail and wheels.

In the standard car, steady-state coolant is usually in the low-mid-80s I believe, rising up to 105 which is about as high as it shouild get with out it being a concern. Oil tracks coolant except under duress when it can rise well above, with the perceived wisdom round here to be a max of 130 before cooldown is essential.
With a turbo at stake, you might want to keep it lower still.
 

Just writing from the verge where my winter tyre has a big old puncture. It's on the inner shoulder so that won't repair either.
I thought it was just slippery roads initially!

I got some enjoyment out of the movie, and the theatre was loud enough to really give you the howling madness of being inside a GT40, but rather like Days of Thunder it suffers from rev and gearchange-itis. The sound and cutting room guys managed to arrange more than one full-throttle before the apex. I did enjoy the dead-eye rivalry between drivers, and I liked the portayal of car development, but the overall quality of the movie was mixed in my view. A grudging 7?
 

Here is a brain dump of all I have learned while trying to do this:
Firstly, the process takes ages. Unless you have magic tools, it will be incredibly slow, like an hour a plug or more as you get tired or drop things
3/8" kit is well suited. 1/2" ratchets are too large. 1/4" helps for the coil pack bolt and other ancillaries that must be removed. Vortex/through sockets are your friends here too as they increase your options. They might let you get a longer handle on a small job, you're going to want that!
A flexible magnet on a stick is absolutely indispensable. Ideally not too magnetic to help with threading the needle. You *will* drop something eventually. Otherwise you need to get the car up on stands so you can poke around the drainage holes or take the undertray off! Otherwise small bits of cloth it towel can be jammed underneath, but I couldn't get full coverage.
There is a tonne of thread on the spark plugs so the combo of socket and extension that works initially can be too long to get out once the plug is loose! Nicely worn extensions will be easier to detach than new ones, and a long flat bladed screwdriver might help depending on your stuff. My halfords advanced 3/8" short extension was too long to separate with screwdriver so I had to man up to detach it from the socket with fingertips of one hand.
Each spark plug requires slightly different tricks! Driver's side is most accessible and the passenger side is always difficult unless you care to mess with fuel lines or aircon. Taking the battery out gives you more elbow room to come in under the hardlines. I've used a mixture of the following tools while trying to find the easiest method:
1/2" ratchet + 3/8" adaptor plus very short extension in to deep 15mm socket. Then remove the insert to get it all the way out before you run out of length to remove anything. Stabilise the turning with a finger to make the ratchet click
3/8" ratchet + short wobble bar plus deep 15mm socket. Crack it loose with the ratchet, then twiddle with fingers. From certain angles it is possible to grip the extension with thumb AND finger! What a treat.

Here is a brain dump of all I have learned while trying to do this:
Firstly, the process takes ages. Unless you have magic tools, it will be incredibly slow, like an hour a plug or more as you get tired or drop things
3/8" kit is well suited. 1/2" ratchets are too large. 1/4" helps for the coil pack bolt and other ancillaries that must be removed. Vortex/through sockets are your friends here too as they increase your options. They might let you get a longer handle on a small job, you're going to want that!
A flexible magnet on a stick is absolutely indispensable. Ideally not too magnetic to help with threading the needle. You *will* drop something eventually. Otherwise you need to get the car up on stands so you can poke around the drainage holes or take the undertray off! Otherwise small bits of cloth it towel can be jammed underneath, but I couldn't get full coverage.
There is a tonne of thread on the spark plugs so the combo of socket and extension that works initially can be too long to get out once the plug is loose! Nicely worn extensions will be easier to detach than new ones, and a long flat bladed screwdriver might help depending on your stuff. My halfords advanced 3/8" short extension was too long to separate with screwdriver so I had to man up to detach it from the socket with fingertips of one hand.
Each spark plug requires slightly different tricks! Driver's side is most accessible and the passenger side is always difficult unless you care to mess with fuel lines or aircon. Taking the battery out gives you more elbow room to come in under the hardlines. I've used a mixture of the following tools while trying to find the easiest method:
1/2" ratchet + 3/8" adaptor plus very short extension in to deep 15mm socket. Then remove the insert to get it all the way out before you run out of length to remove anything. Stabilise the turning with a finger to make the ratchet click
3/8" ratchet + short wobble bar plus deep 15mm socket. Crack it loose with the ratchet, then twiddle with fingers. From certain angles it is possible to grip the extension with thumb AND finger! What a treat.

The previous notable racing rivalry film: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1979320/?ref_=nv_sr_2?ref_=nv_sr_2 . It was good fun, there could have been more focus on racing.
It wouldn't surprise me if the two films have a lot in common.

Follow-up!
Tapered bolts are for the injector ecu, standard bolts for coils, one short bolt for the fuel rail cover.
One of my coil pack cables wasn't quite clicked in it seems, as when I tweaked it, it clicked. Cleared the code on the ecu and the car got back into the mood. Coil C is rear most on the UK driver's side.

Seriously, the integral satnav is at best quirky and offers confusing instructions. It also zooms in very close on big roundabouts so you can't tell which exit you need at a glance. It also costs a small fortune to refresh the maps, and the DIY process is hilariously convoluted. If there are roadworks or heavy traffic on your route it will prompt you every five minutes whether you want to change route, but can't offer much insight as to what the redirect will do. It also likes to inform you of heavy traffic just after you've passed the last possible escape.
Many of these criticism can be levelled at Garmin devices too, but at least those cost less than a map update. All these things are overshadowed by the capabilities of Google Maps.
Basically, buy the right car, not the one with satnav.

Follow-up!
Tapered bolts are for the injector ecu, standard bolts for coils, one short bolt for the fuel rail cover.
One of my coil pack cables wasn't quite clicked in it seems, as when I tweaked it, it clicked. Cleared the code on the ecu and the car got back into the mood. Coil C is rear most on the UK driver's side.

They should be called "The Reverb Guys".

I'm getting a coil c CEL, which I infer implies the coil pack is not correctly seated in place. The car ran fine on its first journey but I'm pretty sure it's firing on three on second start. Very uneven idle.
Q1: which one is coil C? The Americans say passenger side rear, which might be drivers side over here..
Q2: during the change we're not sure we used the right bolts for the right things. There are short 10mm ones, and longer 10mm ones with a tapered nose. Which ones hold the coil packs, and which ones hold the injector ECU to the side of the engine?
It was a nasty and slow job, so I'm not pleased to have to go back down there! Hope you can help me clarify this!
 
I have also noted that the HKS plugs supplied by Fensport have only one prominence compared with three on the Denso plugs that came with the car. I don't believe that will be an issue, but it's interesting.

Collected a set of front and rear brembos off the Impreza's on Sunday - which I'm sure a few of you will recognise. Fitted yesterday;

Also grabbed the carbon boot for good measure 😆

Ooh, I love a bit of fettling! 

Enjoy the Izzard! I'm sad I couldn't get tickets to this show, but all the good acts sell out the Corn Exchange very quickly. The Queen Ann carpark is cheaper than the Grand Arcade FWIW. It's a bit tight though!

I like those orange inserts. Not entirely sure why though.

We can form a Steven Eagell Appreciation Society...

I think you're basically looking at streaky drying with extra sauce on the lacquer. It might just need a regular water wash and dry to get rid of it. Going in heavy-handed might backfire, so take your time trying to rectify things.
You could have a go at it with a clay bar if the easy approaches don't move it. Claying the whole car takes bloomin' ages and you have to start with a freshly washed car, but the result is pleasing once the car has years of road grime coating the paint - the surface feels glassy smooth again. It takes wax off too, so you need more time to properly finish the car.

Well it's totally the immobiliser. I'd get that to Toyota. You mention a big spark, so I'd go over the relevant fuses too.

Crocodile electric remote roller door owner here. I’ve had it now 5 years and its never put a foot wrong.
I loved it so much I bought my father one too for his 60th.
Mine is identical to this (picture found on a quick google search) -
 

 
If you try and lever it up with a crowbar the motor turns on and forces it back down again, so its proper secure.

I just e-mailed James at Amber Performance and yes - it's off their ramp!
 
LOL
 

To be clear, it's not just tread wear. You can get lots of little tears in the surface of the tyre from spinning out, and it would be a shame to do it to new tyres. The only obstacles to hit are plastic cones and your ego.