Church

I rarely use search of any forum. In most cases searching via google (with adding "site:forumsite.domain" to search terms) produce better results.

I'd prefer having same tires (including wear) all around to not change balance. Luckily our cars have non-staggered wheel/tire setup stock, so tires can be rotated to get more out of them/to even out wear/to simplify replacement.

PS4 WILL have more grip. Immensely more if wet. But .. funnily imho stock grip-less primacies are a bit more "fun". All those slight tire chirps when start going, or at some sharper turns even while at legal speeds .. i enjoyed those. Now, for better track performance i'm on PS4 (thought about AD08R too) .. but if it had been daily driven only, i'd probably would like something less grippy

Congrats! I wish for you to enjoy her as much as we enjoy ours

I actually don't get this aswell, why to remove profile and all posts one has made. It's doable, but why? If one decides to not visit anymore one can always just never visit/never log in. And if one does that for some privacy reasons, one can change to some fake email registration address and remove any personal info in profile.

Church on some coilovers it's a necessary evil as it can be hard to grip the shaft and there's no Allen key slot in the top to hold it. On the stock strut there is an Allen slot and thus an impact is not necessary.
If you do use a impact you need to be careful!
(This is from practical experience of fitting a few sets of coilovers top mounts and OEM struts)
 

Different dampers Church. This only seems to be an issue on stock dampers.
Its good practice not to use that method anyway. When a damper rod has a hex/torx socket recess or flats built into the end of it, its usually there for a reason.
You can tighten the top hat nut sufficiently with a ring spanner. Not to mention to the correct torque setting, no need to an impact gun, its not like your trying to whack off crank pulley bolts etc.

What? You want to say that TRD fuel cap won't make car faster?!! Blasphemy!

So, basically the entire car?  

Sorry, only just picked it up this evening
SU003-05827 (Plate Bmpr Upr)
That is just the metal strip, no clips, rubber etc.

Graemel: bronze will go well with blue car, congrats

Safest would be to bed in special rig, where rotors and pads can be mounted and it performed on it according set pressure/duration and so on. Very few specialised shops have such, so probably this option can be ignored
Find some stretch of road where you won't get stopped by police (though if it's about stock brakes and not the most track oriented pads, probably can easily be done within legal speed limits) and where you won't interfere with other traffic (i doubt someone behind you will enjoy you heavy braking on highway )& just bed yourself using repetitious heavy braking w/o completely stopping. Watch that youtube vid i linked in.

To relearn fuel trims:
Make several slow (as slow as you can without feeling unstable) climbs to 5500rpm. I usually do this in 3rd or 4th. Once your LTFT has stabilized, and if your IAM is still at 1, it should be done.
Dead pedal fix:
When car is off, turn ignition to accessory, slowly press accelerator to floor 5-6 times.
Though i've seen also posts just to wait 30sec in accessory mode. And maybe repeat once more, (turn off, accessory, 30sec wait), and finished with starting engine and let 1min idle.

Would be nice to see at least DIY guide pictures hosted locally, so that such will stay independent from cases such as when photobucket policy change fscked up so many. :/
One thing is eye candy,  generic blog pics and alikes, another - pics for useful instructions. It would be nice if there was a way to have different local storage policies for these different use types.

Imho this video is rather good on describing strength and weaknesses of cup2.
 

It's toyota/trd optional part with specific MSRP. I doubt there will be high discount to it even in batch (unless it's some VERY big group buy that probably will never happen). Maybe something can be saved on combined shipping, but i doubt shipping for plastic piece to be very expensive and thus if there is potential to save enough on it.
IIRC it's part number is MS346-18001. Fensport in UK also offers it (£179.60). You can google by this part number for other sources/shops.

link #1 link#2
From some subaru brakers yard 16" Subaru Impreza (2004) space saver (without cut outs, does not foul callipers) or 17", with many round holes. 
If it will fit GT86 calipers pics: #1 , #2
=============
Extras to mount it:
Y51931-0H010 (N/STK CARRIER, S/WHEEL) - £4.71 + VAT
Y64777-0D060 (N/STK CUSHION, SPARE) - 13.71 + VAT

Stutopia: take a look for this sample chart friction Mu vs temps:

Other vendors probably also have pads covering different temp ranges as optimal operating ones for them. This helps to see why those cold stops for some pads may have friction worse even twice or more for first stops in cold and why/how it differs for different pads designed for different uses. Luckily it's rare one needs heavy braking from car just started, as it's usually waiting a bit for engine to warm and slow moving in yard inner roads to normal ones ..
Check nfo in links / charts here for example.

Stutopia: take a look for this sample chart friction Mu vs temps:

Other vendors probably also have pads covering different temp ranges as optimal operating ones for them. This helps to see why those cold stops for some pads may have friction worse even twice or more for first stops in cold and why/how it differs for different pads designed for different uses. Luckily it's rare one needs heavy braking from car just started, as it's usually waiting a bit for engine to warm and slow moving in yard inner roads to normal ones ..
Check nfo in links / charts here for example.

IIIRC on these cars THE main & most common source of rattles usually comes from rear seat U latches. Try eg. covering them few rounds with tape (not TOO much, sufficient so that teethed locking gear can still lock on), may work for a while (after few opening-closing gear will cut through tape though). And double check if it really is closed/latched.

Lauren: PS4 were available in stock size since long ago. PS4S, which i guess is meant as true PSS successor, - only recently 17" aswell, being only 19" & 20" at initial launch.
Michelin.co.uk lists so far only 19/20/21. US-side tirerack.com now also 17" & 18".

I'd agree to what Lowe says. Youtube vids usually are very bad at giving way of objective comparison & choice of exhaust sound. And not just by tone, even loudness-wise.
Most vids are taken with widely varying recording equipment/recording settings & level/recording methodics AND then there goes on what & how sound is played back. Yes, many aftermarket catbacks sound good and add up to aural pleasure vs stock, so there is high chance for them to be good in real life too .. but to objectively compare them among themselves by those vids to get one that may sound best from all the others? Or even their loudness? Put mic at much closer distance and Q300 or stock, especially during cold start, will sound louder then straight track pipe. Turn recording level differently - same result, even if listened on same equipment.
BEST way to judge both tone and loudness is to actually hear them in person, by eg. going to some clubmeet or trackday and hear setups of others by own ears.

I'd agree to what Lowe says. Youtube vids usually are very bad at giving way of objective comparison & choice of exhaust sound. And not just by tone, even loudness-wise.
Most vids are taken with widely varying recording equipment/recording settings & level/recording methodics AND then there goes on what & how sound is played back. Yes, many aftermarket catbacks sound good and add up to aural pleasure vs stock, so there is high chance for them to be good in real life too .. but to objectively compare them among themselves by those vids to get one that may sound best from all the others? Or even their loudness? Put mic at much closer distance and Q300 or stock, especially during cold start, will sound louder then straight track pipe. Turn recording level differently - same result, even if listened on same equipment.
BEST way to judge both tone and loudness is to actually hear them in person, by eg. going to some clubmeet or trackday and hear setups of others by own ears.

IIRC pproblem of clearance is both for Velox/Verus & APR. I wonder if Touge Factory may work then, with inlets not behind foglamp intakes, but behind main rad bumperhole. There is also option of Porsche plastic wings that can be ziptied to control arm. Less effective, directs air to rotor from one side, instead of properly blowing inside, but saving grace is these porsche "ducts" are very cheap.

Why not take the bulbs off and see what happens? Getting the bubs in/out is a 10 min job, then if the fuses stop blowing you know it's the fogs. If it's the only thing that's been changes then it's the 1st place I'd be looking to prove.