GTB

After 2 days driving I can confirm I have a very slick gearchange just like the brochure promised. The pedal stroke is what it is, determined by upper and lower hard stops. Lowering it by using the master cylinder pushrod is wrong. You are then surely using the back stop of the push rod as the upper hard stop which over time will surely knacker your master cylinder ? The push rod adjustment is not for this. The bite point and travel are fine for me. I am just very disappointed with Toyota that they are failing to look at the blindingly obvious and am glad that in my particular case can now stick 2 fingers up to them and say "told you so, clutch drag !" I have written to my local service centre manager as I promised him I would keep him informed of any developments. That`s WKB Toyota in Chichester. Be interesting to see if I get a reply.

Can`t see any, as long as you torque the bolts correctly and re-check wheel nuts a few miles later none what so ever. The nuts that connect the spacer to the hub would only cause an issue if thay ALL came loose. Very unlikely. When you go to fit make sure any spigot rings are removed..................

Since day 1 my gearbox has not been acceptable in its operation. 1st to 2nd has always been crunchy, 2nd to 3rd intermittently crunchy and general gear selection poor. It would often clunk all the way to the back axle when engaging first which is a sure sign the clutch is not fully breaking and is dragging. The car went back to Toyota twice for "adjustment" with no improvement. I fitted Redline MTL oil and had Abbey fit MTEC shift springs. A little improvement but not significant. I read on the FRS forum about altering the bite point lower and tried this. Whilst it improved driveability it actually made the problem worse and the placebo effect soon wore off.
 
I have been convinced from day 1 that the issue owners experience is clutch drag. Have experienced this so many times on bikes with cable operated clutches if the cable is not kept well lubricated and adjusted.
 
Yesterday at The Trundle I sat in Subota Boys car and felt his clutch - ooer ! Totally different to mine. After he sat in my car we both agreed that my clutch felt like it had air in it. I was all prepared to do some bleeding this weekend when today I strayed across an excellent website. Read it through a couple of times and it all made sense. Watched the video a couple of times and the guy actually has a clutch assembly on the bench to show you what to do (same as moving bite point). I set my clutch this afternoon EXACTLY how he says and double checked it. The actuator is on top of the clutch housing so you don`t need the buddy he mentions to check actuator operation.
 
I have just been out for a spin and can`t believe the difference. Bite point is probably now higher than from when I got it but gearchanges very very good. You can just feel the massive improvement. No baulking, no crunching and much much smoother. The pedal is more solid and feels exactly how it should, not like it has air in it.
 
I highly recommend anyone with the crunchy nut gearbox to try this. It is just a 10 minute job. Read the website and watch the video a couple of times. The setting is quite critical it would appear. Perhaps this car is quite sensitive to the set up and a general assembly at the factory is not sufficient ?
 
I`ll keep you posted but so far very very impressed.
 
Toyota could do with taking note of this site:
 
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros
 
and the video here:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=vYJxQyjIhUw

Since day 1 my gearbox has not been acceptable in its operation. 1st to 2nd has always been crunchy, 2nd to 3rd intermittently crunchy and general gear selection poor. It would often clunk all the way to the back axle when engaging first which is a sure sign the clutch is not fully breaking and is dragging. The car went back to Toyota twice for "adjustment" with no improvement. I fitted Redline MTL oil and had Abbey fit MTEC shift springs. A little improvement but not significant. I read on the FRS forum about altering the bite point lower and tried this. Whilst it improved driveability it actually made the problem worse and the placebo effect soon wore off.
 
I have been convinced from day 1 that the issue owners experience is clutch drag. Have experienced this so many times on bikes with cable operated clutches if the cable is not kept well lubricated and adjusted.
 
Yesterday at The Trundle I sat in Subota Boys car and felt his clutch - ooer ! Totally different to mine. After he sat in my car we both agreed that my clutch felt like it had air in it. I was all prepared to do some bleeding this weekend when today I strayed across an excellent website. Read it through a couple of times and it all made sense. Watched the video a couple of times and the guy actually has a clutch assembly on the bench to show you what to do (same as moving bite point). I set my clutch this afternoon EXACTLY how he says and double checked it. The actuator is on top of the clutch housing so you don`t need the buddy he mentions to check actuator operation.
 
I have just been out for a spin and can`t believe the difference. Bite point is probably now higher than from when I got it but gearchanges very very good. You can just feel the massive improvement. No baulking, no crunching and much much smoother. The pedal is more solid and feels exactly how it should, not like it has air in it.
 
I highly recommend anyone with the crunchy nut gearbox to try this. It is just a 10 minute job. Read the website and watch the video a couple of times. The setting is quite critical it would appear. Perhaps this car is quite sensitive to the set up and a general assembly at the factory is not sufficient ?
 
I`ll keep you posted but so far very very impressed.
 
Toyota could do with taking note of this site:
 
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros
 
and the video here:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=vYJxQyjIhUw

Since day 1 my gearbox has not been acceptable in its operation. 1st to 2nd has always been crunchy, 2nd to 3rd intermittently crunchy and general gear selection poor. It would often clunk all the way to the back axle when engaging first which is a sure sign the clutch is not fully breaking and is dragging. The car went back to Toyota twice for "adjustment" with no improvement. I fitted Redline MTL oil and had Abbey fit MTEC shift springs. A little improvement but not significant. I read on the FRS forum about altering the bite point lower and tried this. Whilst it improved driveability it actually made the problem worse and the placebo effect soon wore off.
 
I have been convinced from day 1 that the issue owners experience is clutch drag. Have experienced this so many times on bikes with cable operated clutches if the cable is not kept well lubricated and adjusted.
 
Yesterday at The Trundle I sat in Subota Boys car and felt his clutch - ooer ! Totally different to mine. After he sat in my car we both agreed that my clutch felt like it had air in it. I was all prepared to do some bleeding this weekend when today I strayed across an excellent website. Read it through a couple of times and it all made sense. Watched the video a couple of times and the guy actually has a clutch assembly on the bench to show you what to do (same as moving bite point). I set my clutch this afternoon EXACTLY how he says and double checked it. The actuator is on top of the clutch housing so you don`t need the buddy he mentions to check actuator operation.
 
I have just been out for a spin and can`t believe the difference. Bite point is probably now higher than from when I got it but gearchanges very very good. You can just feel the massive improvement. No baulking, no crunching and much much smoother. The pedal is more solid and feels exactly how it should, not like it has air in it.
 
I highly recommend anyone with the crunchy nut gearbox to try this. It is just a 10 minute job. Read the website and watch the video a couple of times. The setting is quite critical it would appear. Perhaps this car is quite sensitive to the set up and a general assembly at the factory is not sufficient ?
 
I`ll keep you posted but so far very very impressed.
 
Toyota could do with taking note of this site:
 
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros
 
and the video here:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=vYJxQyjIhUw

If this works a statue of you will be commissioned.

I have recently fitted 15mm front and 20mm rear on my 17" Rota Boost wheels (which are only 3mm different offset to OEM I think) and very pleased with the aesthetic results. Very marginally heavier on steering and slightly less tendency to put the back end out (which is a -ve not +ve). Very pleased.

A272 perhaps ? lovely on a bike let alone a car !

You will hear it before you see it.......

Sorry as it involves walking and I not able to walk far,I am out !!

Sent from my Archos 53 Platinum using Tapatalk

Yep, I agree, really great product for the price. I used electrical switch contact cleaner to degrease the window then fitted myself. Start at one side, get it all lined up and press it down well as you go across. Do a couple of dry runs first before lifting the corners of the tape. It kind of snugs down and fills across the screen as you work across peeling the tape as you go. Best aesthetic mod I`ve had so far based on the price. Looks fantastic on white and goes really well with the TRD boot spoiler.

yeah these spigots are annoying, sometimes they stick to the hub, other times they stick to the wheel. Then you get the bastards that roll down the driveway!

15mm front and 20mm rear this is with Rota Boost 17" wheels (can`t remember offset) running OEM tyres and HKS Hipermax 4GT suspension (-17mm front and -16mm rear). I`m now proposing to drop a further 8mm. Looks pretty good.

Don't feel embarrassed...I probably wouldn't have noticed at first either - that's the point of forums like this

If I had £1 for every brain dead moron that stepped off the kerb in front of me too busy *staring at their phone, *using their phone, *listening to their Ipod, *screaming at their kids/dog to look for oncoming traffic then I`d be richer than Special K !
 
*delete as applicable
 
Please can I be second on the panel of 3 worthy people ?

All new drivers - whether approved by a UK Testing facility or immigrant using an Int'l Driving Permit - should have a microchip implanted in them for their first three years which will "read" their distance travelled/speed attained/legal parking/stupid turning/volume and type of in-car music preferred.
 
A panel of three worthy people in the UK - and I offer myself as one - should have the arbitrary right to ban 'em, without leave to appeal.
 
This would include all EU lorry/coach/car drivers as well...
 
Vote for me....
 
 
Spec K 

My take on this , manufacturer are always looking at saving costs nowadays so if they didn't need to add a damper that helped the harmonics they wouldn't;
 
We have built a couple of FA20 motors both where balanced prior to being built both come back with some work on the front pulley to get the balance spot on.
 
Personally I wouldn't remove the stock damped front pulley. The light weight propshaft/flywheel will make the motor respond quicker, but this also makes the motor drop it revs quicker as there isn't as much inertia in the rotating items.
 
Pro and cons like a lot of things on cars/engines. 

Was told on the phone i'd be called back in 20 mins as nobody was available to quote. This was at around 5pm yesterday. So when should I be expecting this call back? 
 
Why you guys are employing people not able to quote is beyond me, I press the option to go through to new insurance queries and get a useless bird on the other end?

1. GTB

Problem is so are ours!

Being a big fan of the Vulcan, we popped in to see XM655 on our way to Gaydon, as it lives only a few miles away.  Being a member of the association, we were able to enter the pan for some photos.  However, they often have Saturday visits from car clubs.  You get a tour of the cockpit and group photo opportunities.  Maybe I could organise something for the future?
Google Xm655 for more information.













 
Keith has a Subaru for family duties. Julia has a Toyota for work. And now we have a black manual Subota GT with mods just for fun.  

I took these before I shot off to Bute for the New Year, as you can probably notice from all the booze sat at the door in one of the pics.
Really enjoying it, even though at the moment it only involves driving to work in the dark, and coming home in the dark. It does make going to work and coming home alot more fun. 
Had a few comments from workmates about it, most positive, but a few not so much. I'll put it down to jealousy or a healthy hatred of yellow. 
It certainly polarizes opinions, and surely that's a good thing. As long as I like it 
 
 

Glad you are loving them. I found for road use softening the front dampers by a few clicks (5-7) made it even easier for daily use with very little detriment to handling. Have a play around and i'll be interested to see how you get on.

it sounds like old car stereos interfering with speakers and spark plugs... but very quiet. Whine kicks in after 5000rpm and meanwhile you feeling the boost and the torque on your chest... It gives the chills. Really!!! And gives a great grin to the face and when you look around, you are alone because they are so small in the mirror...
 
Happiness is loneliness!

At low revs you get a very faint whistle
 
Above 5krpm you'll hear the whine
 
Both are highly addictive and in no way annoying!