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Keethos

Eibach Spacers - Pro's and Con's?

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Hey all,

This may have been asked before somewhere somehow but I can't seem to find it (might have even been on the other side ), but I was wondering what the pros and cons are of having spacers.

I was originally going to go 10mm wider at the front and then 20mm at the rears which I know some people have done but now I'm thinking of going 20mm wider all round to use with my stock wheels.

This would be for use on road and even possibly on track. I've had my car lower by 30mm and -2deg of camber at the front and -1.75deg at the rear. Would there be any down sides or even benefits to the handling of the car and even increased wear on connecting components? Thanks all.

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I have recently fitted 15mm front and 20mm rear on my 17" Rota Boost wheels (which are only 3mm different offset to OEM I think) and very pleased with the aesthetic results. Very marginally heavier on steering and slightly less tendency to put the back end out (which is a -ve not +ve). Very pleased.

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Obviously it's better to get wheels with the right offset and avoid the use of spacers. However, I don't think there's an issue with a relatively small change. 

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Keith - I have 10mm front and 20mm rear.  I don't notice the steering being heavier, but then Geoff's (above) are 5mm wider on the front, and his wheels fill the arches more due to offset.  Agree with him that the back is more planted now.  

 

Lots of people in the States use them, and there only seem to be problems with the cheap ones.  Eibachs are well engineered.  I tried Special K's before I purchased, in order to get the stance that I wanted.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Keith

 

That's three "Keiths" in one post - must be a record!

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Can`t see any, as long as you torque the bolts correctly and re-check wheel nuts a few miles later none what so ever. The nuts that connect the spacer to the hub would only cause an issue if thay ALL came loose. Very unlikely. When you go to fit make sure any spigot rings are removed.................. :wacko:

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Hey all, another quick question which might be useful to those who might be considering spacers but with regards to the 10mm and 20mm spacers, do either of the spacers require new/longer bolts to fit stock wheels onto?  What do you get in the box besides the actual spacers themselves?  Thanks.

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The 10mm ones need the OEM studs removing and replacement ones (supplied) fitting. Subota Boy has done this so may have tips for you. I am a lazy b&stard and went for 15mm. The 15mm & 20mm are plug and play and all parts required are supplied being hub spacer and nuts.

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Does this mean that 10mm you have to remove the disc and the other sizes you don't to fit them?

 

you have to be careful on some of the smaller spacers that have the studs inserted in them, as the OE studs can stick out past the face of the new spacer, meaning the wheel cannot sit flush on the new spacer.  you will need to make sure the wheel you have has recesses in the back to take the studs in, or you may have to cut the OE studs down.  

 

here is a link to all the options Eibach do :

 

http://www.amber-performance.co.uk/section.php?xSec=8579&xPage=1

 

cheers

James 

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Yes thanks for the info, and here's me thinking it would be the other way round, that the smaller spacers would be plug and play while the larger ones needed another set of bolts. How easy is it to remove the bolts from the discs and I take it that the wider spacers need bolting to the hud and then the spacers have new bolts to bolt to the wheel? Anyone got pics of the fronts with 15mm spacers on stock wheels?

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Yes thanks for the info, and here's me thinking it would be the other way round, that the smaller spacers would be plug and play while the larger ones needed another set of bolts. How easy is it to remove the bolts from the discs and I take it that the wider spacers need bolting to the hud and then the spacers have new bolts to bolt to the wheel? Anyone got pics of the fronts with 15mm spacers on stock wheels?

 

yes bolt the spacer to the hub, and bolt the wheel to the spacer.  if you have std wheels, these do have recesses in them, so you should find they drop straight on.

 

that's a much easier option that taking the front hubs off to put in the longer studs. 

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Thanks for the 15mm pics Keith, are they too far out then on 15mm?  They road legal?  How far out do they look from behind (if you can remember)?  Wondering if they're too far out that they'll end up kicking up too much crud onto the body too :(

 

I'd prefer it if I didn't need to take off the discs as I plan on keeping my Stocks for Track (possibly winter too) and my future 18's during the rest of the time which won't need the spacers on.

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As an Engineer, I would say that the "safest" way of spacing is to use longer studs and spacers, and ensure the spacers have locating spigots for the wheel and a register to locate on the hub.

Having said that, I'll probably have to use the bolt on version on my project car, simply because I can't find wheels I like in the right offset and PCD for the RB kit.

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Here are mine on Rota Boost 17" x 7.5" ET48 and HKS Hipermax 1vGT Suspension (-17mm front and -16mm rear). 15mm spacers front and 20mm rear. Don`t worry about the dirt, I don`t do cleaning, it`s a ******g car ! and meant for driving.

 

Eibach1.jpg

 

Eibach2.jpg

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Lol, thanks for the pics, but when I said kicking up crud onto the body, I was more referring to stones and bits that might damage or chip the Paint down the sides of the car, not so much just getting dirty, like yourself, I don't clean my car, I'm not that anal, but I don't fancy running my new paint job.

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Thanks for the 15mm pics Keith, are they too far out then on 15mm?  They road legal?  How far out do they look from behind (if you can remember)?  Wondering if they're too far out that they'll end up kicking up too much crud onto the body too :(

 

I'd prefer it if I didn't need to take off the discs as I plan on keeping my Stocks for Track (possibly winter too) and my future 18's during the rest of the time which won't need the spacers on.

 

 

 

Hi Keith.  I felt they were borderline at 15mm on the front, plus I wanted the front and back to look "even" so went for 10mm on the front to try and get the car to look "right".  If I had stuck with 15mm on the front, I would have needed 25mm on the back, which would have fitted within the arch no problem.  The 15mm did look a bit sticky-outy when viewed from behind, but when I took that view I had no spacer on the back, so it looked wrong.

 

As has been said, having a longer stud is perhaps ideal, more so on the steering axle.  However, if changing wheels over for track use, far less convenient.  It only takes a few more moments to de-spacer with the 15mm upwards arrangement.

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Lol, is this the new film (50 shades of anal) don't mind the car being covered in crap but don't want a stone chip, brilliant.

 

I have a stone chip by the nose badge, big one.  I suppose it's a "badge of honour" - yay! I used my car!    :D

 

Mudflaps ought to stop the stones a bit if your wheels are sticky-outy.  They don't offer much protection for the front panel, I find.

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