Jay Bamrah

And as@spikyone said, it's probably better to buy a faster, more powerful car as there is always an element of risk with going with mods that take the factory numbers up substantially by 30 to 50% ( 260 to 300 bhp).

You need to be ready to take the risk and agree that the overall life of the car / platform will be reduced as it adds an amount of stress on all components from transmission to clutch to Differential to everything in between . Its just luck for how long and whether that meets your personal driving style and needs and you take on the additional wear and tear.

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Since you are googling up, Google LSPI ( Low Speed Pre Ignition) and you will get why people say that. It comes back to peak cylinder pressures like the post from Mark yesterday.

Low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) is a premature combustion event, occurring prior to spark ignition in turbocharged, downsized gasoline vehicles. As the name implies, it occurs when engines operate at low speeds and high loads. It can result in extremely high cylinder-pressures and can lead to heavy knock. At a minimum, LSPI can generate an audible knocking noise noticeable to the driver. Repeated exposure to these conditions can cause engine hardware failure, including broken spark plugs and cracked pistons

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It sort of means rpm; rpm is a non-standard unit, so to do torque x speed = power, you have to use:
Torque in Nm
Speed* in radians per second
Power in Watts
You can do a calculation using other units (e.g. rpm for speed) but you have to use a conversion factor to correct it.
 
To get more power, you would generally want more torque, yes. However you can also achieve it by changing where the peak torque occurs, depending on the engine characteristics. So if you had peak power at, say, 4000rpm, it might be that your torque drops off at higher rpms. You might be able to increase the torque at 6000rpm so that it's the same torque you previously made at 4000rpm: in that case your peak torque figure hasn't changed, but because it occurs at a higher rpm you'll make a higher power. It will mean that instead of making peak power at 4000rpm, you'd make peak power at 6000rpm. Hopefully that makes sense...
If your car is tuned properly with forced induction, you won't be in a situation where you can add more power by changing the shape of the torque curve though. Peak power for these engines is very high in the rev range and the torque curve should be fairly flat in that region.
Just my opinion here, but a GT86 with nearly 300bhp (as you'd get with forced induction) is pretty quick. To get that power, with appropriate suspension/brake upgrades, is going to cost £8-10k. If you really want more than 300bhp you'd be better off selling the GT86 and buying something else.
 
(*As a note, "speed" is actually angular velocity, but I thought that was even more confusing!)

Power is torque x speed (with a multiplier if you're not using Nm and radians/sec), not torque x time.
So, at a given engine rpm, if you increase the torque, you will also increase power at that rpm. When you see dyno graphs, they use rpm as the x-axis (along the bottom), and both torque and power on the y-axis. If you pick a certain rpm - say 4000rpm - the engine will make a certain torque, and as a result of that, a particular power. If you increase the torque at 4000rpm (by tuning), you'll have more power at 4000rpm.

I think so, yes.
I guess the other way of increasing HP is to raise the rev limit but keep the torque relatively flat.

Martin,
I'm interested in your experience with the uprated coils. Do you think the the improved driveability is down to the uprated coils, or just due to new items vs old/tired originals?
Cheers!

So are you saying that maximum chance of damage is at max torque (5000rpm) or when you’re full throttle at 2000rpm gear 6?

Ahh, Martin is supercharged, not turbo.
My bad


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No mate. I got the ej20 engine with custom manifold made. 

That looks mint bro and no problem!

Biggest bit of advice is make sure the cat is really warmed up before it goes through emission checks as you’ve not got the primary cat the secondary cat needs to be warmed up by running the engine. 

I don't think so. Valet mode stops the car from revving so there's no hoonage. The MOT emission checks are done at idle.
AFAIUI remaps use the stock ECU for idle control and only really do their thing higher up the rev ranges when fueling and ignition need to be adjusted.

A few years back, iOS devices couldn't use bluetooth to connect to OBD devices. They had to have Wifi-based communication, so the ecosystem is a bit different. Don't know if that's still true? Check your dongle is suitable! Lots of issues with the apps often stem from the reader being a cheap knock-off.
Apart from that you could try dashcommand, or perhaps forscan.

@Jay Bamrah … that is some coincidence and the wheels look great 
also thanks for sharing the link for the black locking wheel nuts … I was thinking about searching for one on my way back from the garage so this was perfect timing 
Have just put in the orders so can’t wait for them to arrive 
you are a star!!  Thanks

Hey @Jay Bamrah sorry didn’t see your message until after I had booked my wheels for a refurb and painting (Gloss Black)
Took the car in this morning and the guys did a great job to turn it around in less than 6 hours at a very reasonable price
This is how they look now 😍
 

The constant noise isn't crickets its your direct injectors, they are noisy by design.
The clunk is the clutch of your A/C engaging as others has mentioned, but the brief rattle once it kicks in is unusual, although its something i wouldn't be concerned about.

Why it's not meant to? Isn't it normal operating mode of it, that it with that clunk engages when asked to by A/C climate control and disengages to save fuel when wished temps reached? Obviously louder if listening with hood opened, less from inside car .. which, to keep weight light has little noise insulation on these cars.

Maybe you just tuned into it. I'd been driving mine for months before suddenly becoming aware of a noise whilst cruising on a motorway. Turned out to the air-con clutch.

Agreed.  The only other thing that cycles like that is the electric fan.

clutch of airconditioning?

Yeah, that's my guess as well.

You'll be able to see the revs adjusting at warm idle in combination with that click if it's the aircon as it loads and unloads the accessory belt. It sounds like aircon, as (almost) everything else under the bonnet is tied directly to engine RPMs.

My last service kit. All fluids ( Engine oil, diff oil, Brake and clutch fluid) Millers top of the line CFS. I did say I am OCD on this though.
 
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Its just a branding gimmick. There is nothing in this oil that would stop you using it on a BRZ/86/Supra/GR Yaris etc.
Generally speaking, any fully synthetic 0w-20 would do. This is all thats mentioned in the owners manual.
 

Odd that you needed oil badly. Is your car burning/ losing oil as these motors rarely need a top up outside of regular service intervals.? How much did you need to use from that 1L bottle.

Oils are a very emotive topic. Easiest is to give it to a reputable garage who use quality branded fully synthetic oils like Mobil1, Shell Helix Ultra, Castrol Edge. With oil weight , you also should look for API SN certified.

Now to doing it the OCD way. Buy a Millers oil test kit for circa £50 and do an oil analysis everytime you change to test your oil and engine health.

What I will recommend is a Grade 4 PAO or Grade 5 Ester based synthetic. The big brands that I mention above are Grade 3.

This then limits you to Motul 300V, Gulf Competition, Fuchs Titan Race and Millers CFS or Millers EE Nanodrive which are the best of the best. Best place to buy these are online from Opie Oils.

Am sure this GR oil will be Ester based Grade 5 synthetic, hence the high sticker price.


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