Burtie178

I would really recommend it at least for road use - I got mine at the same time as the Tuning Developments NA package and lightweight pullies, really made a massive difference in terms of acceleration. 

Yeah it's the bit about piston area that i don't follow. By my maths the WRX 4 pots give you significantly more piston area, even if i'm being generous and assuming the OEM calipers act as a 2 pot (rather than a sliding single).
1 piston WRX = Pi x 20^2 = 1256.6mm^2      So 4 pistons = 4 x 1256.6 = 5026.5mm^2
GT86 OEM = Pi x 21.4 = 1438.7mm^2    So 2 pistons = 2 x 1438.7 = 2877.4mm^2
 

But the reality is I'm not going to mess about changing pads just to go on track. I just want something that does both very well. My setup does that and will out perform whatever pad/disc combination you have on the stock calipers. It's also just as good on the road. I've had over 30K miles out of them now. 

Depends upon what you mean by 'decent' tyres. Even with decent road tyres you will over come what the stock brakes are capable of after a few laps. It's about sustaining feel and keeping the consistency of it lap after lap. Even in a sprint which is only one lap I get the advantage of a BBK. It inspires confidence and the brakes simply consistent and don't fade. On a sprint I struggle with stock calipers. Uprated pads offer only a slight improvement. 
The other point you and most are missing is that if you trail brake the modulation of pressure and consistency of feel is key to being able to adjust the angle of the car when turning into a corner. I admit these are advanced techniques that I don't expect your average driver to thoroughly grasp, but having  a BBK even using road tyres has possibly been one of the best modifications I've done to my car. 

I’m looking to build a forged engine and on the look out for parts, before I go and buy from a vendor I thought I’d post up a wanted

Looking for the following:

Carrillo Rods with carr bolts
CP pistons (10:1 or higher)
ARP case bolts
ARP head bolts
XP racing PmaxKote rod bearings
XP racing PmaxKote main bearings
Uprated valve springs, retainers, etc

I’m sure there are other engine build related things I might be interested in too so try me......

I'd advise against retrofitting brakes from other car. Of course, illeffects may matter less for not tracked car, that is not pushed and driven with nannies on, but it still feels wrong thing to do. OE twins brembos IIRC will cost 2.5K for brake part + cost of wheels that will clear them (original IIRC didn't), or extended studs & spacers.
Still, can you tell what issues your brakes had that warrant caliper replacement? Usually most issues can be handled by simple rehaul of brakes. Replacing seals, regreasing, if worn, pad change, sometimes extra bedding, with calipers very rarely getting to state of not usable.

Short of going FI, the manifold is the only significant gain you'll get. Depending on where you live, @Mike@TD.co.uk at Tuning Developments is a good man to talk to. TD sell the manifold, filter, and remap as as a fitted package for a very good price - likely to be less than doing it separately.
It was such a good deal that I drove 3+ hours and stayed in a hotel the night before when I had mine done. Lots of people here are running that setup.

Not sure on that to be honest as I've not looked into seats too much. I'd imagine something like a Buddyclub rail might work though as I believe they're fairly universal for seat mounting? 

I was hoping that would be the case as it was with the Cup's and 595 RSR's I've run previously 

so just recent ive noticed like a knocking sound coming from under the car when i reverse on a slope or hill,this is the only time it seems to happen very strange,anyone got any ideas? 

I’ve just had the TD stage 1 turbo fitted and it pulled the clutch out on the Dyno. Mike fitted the stage 1 Exedy and although I haven’t done many miles it has all the feel of an oem but with the reliability of being uprated 

You'll probably find you'll want to lower it about ten seconds after putting the new wheels on. You just seem to notice the arch gap more with different wheels. But you don't have to of course. 
You can get camber bolts for the front, they are cheap about £25 a set. You can also get offset bushes of adjustable lower arms (more money but easier to adjust) for the rears. Sure having a bit more negative camber looks better, but more particularly so on the front helps eliminate understeer. As you've not changed the suspension though you can of course just bolt on the new wheels and be done. It's up to you of course. 
In terms of differences due to the bigger wheels, it really depends a lot on weight. If they are significantly heavier than stock wheels then you will notice a decrease in acceleration, braking and turn in. I can easily tell the difference between my lightweight 17's compared to the heavier stock wheels (1.8kg heavier). The trouble is an increase in unsprung mass has much more of an effect than it does on sprung weight as wheels rotate of course. Many say they don't notice the difference and you may be one of those. It just depends how sensitive you are to such things. 

1. Loads of choices for where depending on the wheels you settle on - wheelbase, demon tweeks, Amber Performance, etc
2. Stock are 17x7" et48
3. 18's will fit fine
4 & 5. These are just personal choice really, Google ones you like and see if there are pictures fitted to an 86/brz/frs
6. Some places will fit and balance, some won't just depends where you buy from
7. Not really. Just make sure you have the right bolt pattern and centre bore / necessary spigot rings (most places will supply these anyway)
8. Brand will come down to the style you want. Konig are fine. 
 
The wheels you've pictured were mine. They are some of the only ones with a ring on - you'll limit you're choice a lot if that's a must have. A 17x8 or 18x8 et35 is a good suggestion for a more flush look but you will need to lower it really for it to look properly decent. 

1) Dropped it off 1 weekend & picked it up the next.
2) I’m pretty sure the extra heat from the turbo kit will kill the cat in no time. There must be an alternative out there but you’d need to speak to mike.
3) friendly mot guy👍

My renwel actually went down some how, had all mods declared. £450 fully completed 30 years old and 8 years NCB.

Awesome. What kind of engine are you going to run?

Would like to keep the manifold and overpipe together for now.

Does the boot have OEM spoiler holes.

UEL is the way to go!

@mattt https://www.part-box.com/tycb-1201q2-circuit-sports-usa-resonated-cat-back-exhaust-system-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz?search=TYCB-1201Q2&description=true

Great description, I like the details, thanks 👌

Bump
Anyone interested in these items at all? Any questions please ask :)

The AD08RS's are certainly a hefty tyre weight wise coming out at 10.8kg compared to the Freeform wheels at 8.8kg

I used the NS2r in Time Attack street class, not so great on the 86. Would say a PS4 would be quicker especially in the wet.

Thanks Guys, some good advice.
Will probably replace just the pads and fluid to start off with and see how I get on, with as KevinA mentioned, shorter stints......
Unless a cheap BBK conversion comes up 🙈😂