Kodename47

I don't order off there but handy for finding part numbers and then just google it. Some turn up on eBay but most are listed in the US, it's only around $12 so why not call up the local dealer?
If you chuck the updated part number in Google (SU00305866) it find the updated item so there has been a revision. Amayama comes from Japan, I've bought from them before, but as above I'd see what Toyota charge.

Every time the topic of "forced induction" is brought up on this forum, the most popular argument against FI is "learn to drive on track before increasing power", or some other nonsense, as if driving the car on a track is the only way your opinion becomes validated.
People need to learn that not everyone who buys a sports car buys it for track use. I tracked my car twice in the 2 and a half years I owned it. I did everything from a full NA setup to a near 300hp turbo setup, yet, to some people, because I wasn't at every track day or didn't join the Sprint Series, my opinion is far less valid.
Nearly everyone on this forum will spend ~90% of their time driving a GT86 driving it on the road, and quite likely on a boring road. Simply put, for that ~90% of the time, the GT86/BRZ being "built for corners" and "fast enough on the right road" isn't enough, and you're kidding yourself if you think 200hp is "fun" on a straight road, or the daily commute through town.
Adding a turbo/supercharger doesn't detract from the fun the platform offers on the right road, or a track. It requires more concentration and more skill to master, as well as some supporting mods to really make the most of it. However, the extra power means the platform can be enjoyed for the other huge percentage of driving, such as motorway miles, as the enjoyment of keeping up with much faster cars is a joy in itself.
I've developed a theory over my time on here, that most of the nay-sayers on this forum (when talking about FI) are only nay-saying as they either can't afford to do it themselves, or are scared of the potential consequences to reliability (or similar). To those people, I'd suggest that your voice has been heard, so no need to keep repeating yourself.
To everyone else who wants more power, whether for better track times, more enjoyment on the road, or simply to get more "scene" points in the McDonalds car park, I say go for it. Your money, your car, your life  
 

Supercharged how? Is the MAP sensor the OEM one or aftermarket? Not all SC cars swap out the MAP sensor.

Probably the time to pull out this pic

Mark had the FA20Club manifold fitted to a UK car quite early on, I believe he still has it. The TD manifold came later and is incredibly similar  The thing is that TD have a kit that they fit, Mark has always done the tailored mods route.
Ps My car is looked after by Abbey.

Probably the time to pull out this pic

Probably the time to pull out this pic

That looks like a GT86 hybrid front end, grille wise. The spy shots make the front end at least a little FT-1-ish


 

All speaker bases are made of metal magnets.....

Tink spotted this afternoon parked up in HH. Keep seeing these CS now, most common facelift colour I've seen 

All speaker bases are made of metal magnets.....

Although based on your OP you're still insured by a LV subsiduary. I always find it Bizarre that brokers can get better prices than the actual parent company.

You have to be aware whether they are LHD/RHD and whether HID or projectors. @JRot has them, but the JDM ones so confirmed for RHD.
Apart from the differences noted above, all 86 and BRZ lights have the same fit and mountings, even the facelift MY17 models.
 

But it's not really the temperature that's the issue, was more my point. Let's, for example, pick a top of the range oil designed for high temp use. At 130C and 6k RPM after 2 laps, a 0W20 is at 50psi, 0W30 at 80psi, 5W40 is 95psi. Out of those, the temperature on the 0W20 is an issue as the pressure is dropping, the 0W30 is probably on it's limits but the 5W40 is still capable of more abuse. Yes this car could do with more oil cooling, but I would be more concerned with oil pressure than peak temperatures. Knowing the relationship between those 2 with what you run is where you want to be at. Any track car should be running an oil pressure gauge IMO. 

Why not take the bulbs off and see what happens? Getting the bubs in/out is a 10 min job, then if the fuses stop blowing you know it's the fogs. If it's the only thing that's been changes then it's the 1st place I'd be looking to prove.

Why not take the bulbs off and see what happens? Getting the bubs in/out is a 10 min job, then if the fuses stop blowing you know it's the fogs. If it's the only thing that's been changes then it's the 1st place I'd be looking to prove.

Why not take the bulbs off and see what happens? Getting the bubs in/out is a 10 min job, then if the fuses stop blowing you know it's the fogs. If it's the only thing that's been changes then it's the 1st place I'd be looking to prove.

CC: Push the button on the end to enable/disable it, the CC light will come on. Then you need to push it down to enable, up to restore, towards to cancel. SET appears on the dash when active. It's all ECU controlled so if the speed set light is coming on it can't not work without accompanying CEL. Otherwise I would look at a faulty switch, but you're not saying it's that.

Modern decent oil will protect better and last longer at higher temps than older oils. The issue is that with high temps you see the oil pressures drop and that is really more key than a temperature limit. Standard OW20 oils will likely be thinner at higher temps than a thicker oil, so a 5W30 oil would give you better pressures under extended running.

Around £250. Yes, you would need a remap as well to make the most of it.

I know it is, but that's no fun and not geeky enough  

Yes. Shown as the inner gauge circle on the MY12 and the lower left segment in the MY17 as per the genuine dash. Seems that maximum logged value is about ~60 so I've set the gauge to suit.

I know that this might appeal to a select few but for those who put any driving videos together I've been playing around in DashWare to recreate the GT86 gauge clusters. For those that don't know, DashWare is one of a few programs that combines videos with datalog info. This can be got via EcuTek, Torque, Tactrix etc


 
Everything is functional if you log the correct parameters:
Speed
RPM (Includes shift light)
Gear
Oil Temp
Ambient Temp
Accelerator
Brakes
Latitudinal G
Longitudinal G
Steering Angle on MY17
I can share these out if anyone is interested.
I just need to find a GPS app that I can combine with EcuTek's ECUConnect App.

I know that this might appeal to a select few but for those who put any driving videos together I've been playing around in DashWare to recreate the GT86 gauge clusters. For those that don't know, DashWare is one of a few programs that combines videos with datalog info. This can be got via EcuTek, Torque, Tactrix etc


 
Everything is functional if you log the correct parameters:
Speed
RPM (Includes shift light)
Gear
Oil Temp
Ambient Temp
Accelerator
Brakes
Latitudinal G
Longitudinal G
Steering Angle on MY17
I can share these out if anyone is interested.
I just need to find a GPS app that I can combine with EcuTek's ECUConnect App.

I know that this might appeal to a select few but for those who put any driving videos together I've been playing around in DashWare to recreate the GT86 gauge clusters. For those that don't know, DashWare is one of a few programs that combines videos with datalog info. This can be got via EcuTek, Torque, Tactrix etc


 
Everything is functional if you log the correct parameters:
Speed
RPM (Includes shift light)
Gear
Oil Temp
Ambient Temp
Accelerator
Brakes
Latitudinal G
Longitudinal G
Steering Angle on MY17
I can share these out if anyone is interested.
I just need to find a GPS app that I can combine with EcuTek's ECUConnect App.