Lmc

Looking for a set of 2017+ Brz headlights
cash waiting

If there's enough left to stick them to, they'll be fine. Just get some decent glue 

Bought AP BRAKE KIT, fitted it and the clearance wasn’t enough for the wheels. I had to borrow a company car while I ordered 10mm spacers. Now the car has sexy brakes and a nice +10mm fitment and it’s sexy🥰

hi guys i been on here for ages but never posted really,so thought it was time i started a thread on my 86 aero,ive had it nearly six years now and shes been as good as gold  shes a long term project so will update bits on here as i go,so far ive got a hks cat back and valenti rear lights with the fog light also,had her all ceramic coated in kamikaze enrei also

Well let's get to it. Marmite as she is now called is now at Stage 2 turbo 330 Hp after a little tweaking (done buy mike and brother at Tuning Developements). She's now also got a front big brake kit 8 pot & rear bbk on the way and various other mods windows tinted, Carbon fibre dipped wheels, side back vents and lots of other things such as a Decent set of coil-overs (olins). Blue GT 86 sold for more than I paid for her. looking at getting some pipes done in titanium and other bits and bobs. I noticed a lot of ppl moving onto other cars but well that's their loss the 86 is still a grate platform.

My car is running 290bhp on tuning developments turbo kit. The stock clutch lasted about 5 minutes before it started slipping.

All ready to be painted. Just need some stickers. Wish me luck getting the right size

It's ok you will get used to him. Does it to every thread.

I give up. You’re not arguing a point. It’s like you’re making a rebuttal but not actually arguing any point; just giving me a 101 on race setups. Please leave the thread so that people don’t have to navigate through the waves of nonsense.

You’re doing it again mate! It doesn’t have any relevance

Your first point which I could just about make out, was very wrong indeed. A car that ‘needs’ heavier braking doesn’t necessarily need to be heavier or faster/more powerful - it’s just the speed at which they want to decelerate. F1 cars are insanely light but require going from 100-0 in less than 2 seconds. The limiting factor is tyres, as to which i have 275s all round. I would also only put ceramic brakes or high performance pads under the category of potential ‘under braking’. Steel discs themselves wouldn’t, in my opinion. Their frictional coefficient decreases as heat increases, whereas ceramics and high performance pads are the opposite. The purpose of discs is to provide a mating surface for the pads and to dissipate the heat generated from the friction caused by the rotation of the wheels.

Okay guys, this is my first post but I have been on the scene for a while and would like to put forward some information for other people on a budget. If people could offer guidance or confirm that I’m taking everything into account I possibly could, then that would also be great!
 
So essentially, if people don’t know, there is a bracket kit from the USA that allows you to put on a brand new set of brembos that are from US specific cars, but at a low price. I had assumed that this would never work for anyone based in the UK, as import fees and the international shipping would discount the thought of even going down that route. Not to mention, maintenance costs for discs and pads would have to come from the US.
 
Anyway, I bit the bullet and decided to purchase this kit (it has not yet come) due to the fact that it is still a cheap option - as opposed to going for an aftermarket kit, or even swapping the scooby brembos over.
Both front brembo calipers have come from ACdelco/GM, and have totalled to £300 - this is not including import fees; I am yet to be hit with them. But for arguments sake, I’m paying £400 for a brand new set of 4 pot brembos. The discs required come from an 04 STi, which would be the case for people doing the scooby swap. If purchasing these calipers, you would need to buy the pins and carriers separately (about £30 for a set).
 
Next up is the brackets from ctsvbrakeswap. For the 4 pot upgrade (they do a 6 pot one too) it is $220 + $35 for intl. shipping. So $255 plus taxes will easily be £275. So we’re talking about £700 so far. The discs are about £150 for a decent grooved pair.
 
The pads have been the hardest part to find. I think this calliper is the same as the Volvo S60 R and V70 R.... I’ve managed to find some ferodo DS2500’s for thag calliper (I’m just waiting on confirmation of sizes).
 
So just to be on the safe side it’s about £1000 for this whole kit. If anyone has done this swap in the UK, or anyone knows anything about where I could source different pads from that would be great. It has been a nightmare to come close to anything.
 
If anyone has raised eyebrows as to why I have made this very difficult for myself when I could settle for going down the scooby route (which I worked out to be around £1500), there are a few reasons: Everything is brand new, but cheaper than an aftermarket kit. Once I have a hold of these brackets, I can then make a CAD drawing to then get some machined for people that would like to take this route even cheaper than I have - if that is something people are interested in?
 
Guys, please don’t talk about brake bias, or anything alike, as we already have heard about this on every BBK topic. The point of this post is that if anyone is savvy with parts coming from different cars that would fit this kit (especially if they can be sourced from the UK), as well as open up the market to find parts from different places, it would make this swap more comforting to people as they have more options to take and are not restricted to what pads they want to buy for example. And it would evidently be cheaper. This is also for people that have taken the same route as me that would like to give their feedback with running the setup!
 
Cheers,
 
Gaz

[mention]Church [/mention] I nearly had a stroke reading that

Well first of all, they’re 4 pots. They have a larger surface area of pistons, pads are larger and the disc is larger. If this didn’t have any difference over my current OE brakes I’d be really concerned. Also, this would be reflected in the reviews that I have seen. The fact that some brands are more reputable than others is not my fault. Brembos are the pinnacle, (or at least they’re made out to be; all the top spec cars such as F1 use them) so I wedged my bets on that. I understand that these callipers are not monoblock or forged aluminium or GT callipers. I also understand that there is someone more knowledgeable out there than I am, but you’re assuming that I’ve made the decision to go for this kit based on a sticker when that couldn’t be more far from the truth. The whole point of this is to express bang for buck. I haven’t found out the bang for myself just yet but I digress. This is about having the largest improvement to price ratio. It just happens to be that brembos fell right into that category.

We’re drifting off topic (pardon the pun) here and getting into semantics. I appreciate the advice for supporting mods for drifting, but this isn’t the topic of discussion.
You’re giving your opinion of what you would do and this isn’t the purpose of what I’m trying to seek out. Surely this is clear?

Recent one of mine
 

I can't get my head around the looks, to me the design looks older than the outgoing model and the proportions don't look right. The ride height with those 18s is awful, its jacked up, the bonnet line looks higher, the squarer headlights and frumpy boot pushes the whole car up, its gone from a sports car to a coupe (think 2 series, c class). That dashboard looks fit for a 4x4 or a pickup. I don't think there is any threat of me moving my GT86 along

Just used this fo mine.
works perfectly thanks guys👍

Getting back onto the topic of the actual start up screen, I've had a go at making one for myself. I wanted one in the same style as the OP, but with the Toyota logo instead of Subaru.
However, I then decided to add a little bit of flair. I just did a google search for "GT86 silhouette" and found a a beautiful outline image of the car posted by someone on Reddit years ago (so please, all credit to them as the original artist). I then also just searched for the Toyota logo on a black background and hey presto, manage to make what I think is a nice bootup screen
Hard to take a photo of it in car due to the amount of glare, so I've attached the files here as well as .bmp images, if anyone wants to use them. You can just use them with @Shad's .txt file, just ensure the image is named "image1.bmp" on the USB stick.
I believe this unit also supports custom wallpapers, so I might see if I can use the silhouette there as well.

image1-logo only.bmp
image1.bmp

I collected the rest of the brake upgrade today
I've gone with the Reyland AP BBK with curved internal vein J hook discs. These should hopefully work very nicely with the PFC.11 pads and Motul RBF660 fluid.
Discs are 330mm

The right parts cost, can you dont look like you want to pay for them so there is no wonder why people put them back to stop. For example if I was to look at mine:
12 plate 35K miles. 12k?
Cosworth kit 3.5k?
Ohlins 1.5k?
App BBK 1k?
Two sets of wheels 500?
Hayward and Scott Exhaust 500?
Stereo 200?
Tomms rear lights 200?
Scroth Harnesses 200?
Cosworth baffle this would never be worth taking off.
Full Siebon lip kit. (cost a packet new)
 
The car in bits stands as 19k+ and I think you could get more for the bits if patient. Doesn't sound like many would be willing to give that kind of money for a prepped car.
 
 

I hadn’t really planned the next mod but a little man maths and my inherent weakness for billet parts was just too much to resist
 
Initially I was thinking along the usual route of buying individual suspension parts control arms, toe rods etc but the Wisefab kits actually make more sense and they have the added benefit of beautiful billet uprights which have a built in 25mm drop on the knuckles all round.
 
I always associated Wisefab with drifting parts but they also make track kits that maintain the original track widths front and rear, giving pretty much all the adjustment you could ever want. More important for me though was that fact the kits correct the suspension geometry for lowered cars, whilst also saving 14kg on the rear and 7kg up front which is pretty significant on a suspension system.
 
Rear Kit
 

 
Front kit
 

 
I’ve only managed to fit the rear so far, unfortunately I couldn’t source the rear kit in black. Its a relatively straight forward install, but did require a few tweaks to the AP racing 4 pot calliper bracket to make it work with the billet knuckles mounting points.
 
Side by Side of the old OEM components and new Wisefab rear kit
 

 
New Bits installed on the rear, you can really see just how high the hub is placed in the new knuckle
 

 

 
Hopefully I’ll get a decent run at the front over the next week or so, and then carry out a quick alignment before the next track day.

Looks superb👍

Well without wanting to bore you lot with silly words. Here's the reveal video and a few of my favourite pictures!    
       

Also went with a new set of OEM main case bolts, they seem to be commonly used in a lot of builds so will be more than up to the job
 

 
For the head bolts I’ve gone with ARP hardware. The OEM are a bolt type whereas the ARP are a stud and nut design, but again pretty much every builder seems to use them
 

 
I had also been looking for some up-rated GSC viton valve stem seals and I finally found some with a supplier. But I was really struggling to get the new bearings. I wanted to go with KING racing p-max bearings and their newest polymer coating (p-kote) for both the mains and rods as it will give a little margin of safety in low oil supply situations, but a lot of suppliers were struggling to get me a set so the build ground to a halt for a little while.

With the engine torn down it was time to tackle the mountain of RTV that was on everything in sight. A combination of the three below with various types of scrapers and brushes was somewhat successful, with enough patients it would eventually take most of the RTV off a surface, and the remainder would come off with a pressure washer but it wasn’t giving the super clean finish I was after.
 

 
The other issue was the casting on the engine block and front cover are very rough from the factory and suffer badly with oxidation and no amount of chemicals and pressure washing at close quarters was going to leave them looking nice
 

 

 

 
So after losing the will to live, and valuing my hands and lungs I decided to send the parts off to a local guy who does Vapour blasting.
 
A friend had used him and he was highly recommended. As it turned out he was an absolute gent and a car nut, with a lovely 911 and BMW 2002 out the back of the workshop. I have to say his attention to detail was only what you could get from a proper car guy too, he was extremely careful to protect all the bearing journals and plug all the oil galleries.
 
Nevertheless I fully de-greased, and power washing all the parts again for good measure to ensure these is no small particles anywhere before they even go for machining where they'll get cleaned a few times again.
 
But I think the results speak for themselves, you can still see how rough the castings are, and nothing short of polishing them would remove that but they look better than factory fresh IMHO.
 

 

 

 
While at it he also de-carbonised the cylinder bowls, and each of the valves. the heads themselves will get skimmed so mating surface will be cleaned up when machined.
 

So with the engine out, I started to strip the block. First up was to strip off the inlet manifold and remove the fueling systems, the beauty of boxer engines it you have two of everything, two high pressure fuel rails for the DI system and two low pressure rails for the port injection etc etc....
 

 

 
Finally with some of that lot removed the main wiring loom is exposed so that it could be removed.
 

A short while later with two trackdays under my belt since fitting the supercharger, and after a few data logs the ECU tune seems to be dialled in. The only issue that reared its head was a slipping clutch. So at that point I decided to fit a metallic three puk Exedy clutch, and while at it I figured I might as well take the opportunity to fit a lightweight flywheel. There are a few choices out there but I finally decided on the RCM one, coming in at a very light 3.6Kg, well under half the OEM flywheel weight
 

 

 

 
As I was breaking out the tools, and dropping most of the exhaust system to remove the gearbox I decided to fit a new manifold/header to replace the OEM. I opted to go with an unequal length for the replacement, to help to increase the lower and mid range torque and result in a little more boxer burble, plus it would reduce the increased back pressures from the added boost of the supercharger
 

 

 
With the manifold removed it was a good opportunity to fit a new Racer X baffled sump I’d picked up too. 
 

 
Finally got it all fitted and manifold wrapped, as it sits quiet close to the sump I decided to double wrap the manifold, will be no harm for under bonnet temperature anyways.
 

 

 
Final bit of work was to change the brake fluid, engine oil, and diff and gearbox oils ahead of the next track-day.