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This is now provisionally sold, pending payment and collection. I will update when the transaction is complete and the thread can be closed.

Hi all,I'm selling this system on, as despite being one of the quieter systems available, I was running it with a catless manifold and sports cat, and it was still a little loud for my taste.I bought this off another member on the Owners Club in March, and he provided me with his original proof of purchase from new in April 2019. I've had the system fitted for only 4 months and have covered about a 1000 miles, at the most.The system is in excellent condition with no leaks, cracks or damage. There are a couple of tiny scratches on the tips...however, as the tips are burnt titanium, I'm told you can remedy this by heating them and the blueing should return. I've given the tips and most of the backbox a going over with Autosol, although a thorough clean wouldn't go amiss.Location: Item is located in Rochester, Kent. Due to the size and the fact I don't have a box, I can't post it, so collection only I'm afraid. However, I am often visiting family in east Anglia (Thetford, Stowmarket areas), so if you live that way, I'd be happy to bring to a prearranged place on the way. I'd also be happy to drive a little (say 30 mins) to meet if it would make collection easier.The midpipe is supplied in 2 sections with a clamp, so along with thr backbox, it can be easily transported in the boot of a GT86.Price: £600 ono. Pictures attached.

I can't help you with what size spacers you need, but I have 15mm front and 20mm on the rear (purely for looks, not functionality, bite me) and there is practically no effect on handling. The steering is maybe slightly heavier, but I'm not sure if I can actually feel that, or if it's just a placebo because I know that it should be heavier. One unintended advantage of spacers - slightly widened track makes negotiating speed cushions a bit easier

Just tried this and I'm not sure it's made a huge difference tbh. My gap was nowhere near as bad as some other examples I've seen though, so maybe it's just diminishing returns. On the plus side, I didn't have to remove the bumper...just undoing the side indicator and taking a clip out from there I was able to pull the bumper forward enough to fit this clip. Very fiddly (the clips are tiny), but managed it. Im not going to do the drivers side...it wasn't as bad, and now they look roughly even. It just looks like "bad panel gaps", rather than "bumper falling off". Stupidly, I forgot to take a 'before' picture, too.

Almost a year on from this post and I never got around to fixing it myself. But last month I was looking into the problem again and found that they sell these little clips on Japan Parts, and they aren't charging 15 quid each. Instead, I was able to get 2 of them for 17 quid, delivered. Overnight parts from Japan, yo! Although not overnight. I ordered on the 19th May and they turned up this morning. That's a little job to attend to in my time off this week

Oh no...

It sounds a little metallic. Do you have an aftermarket manifold? It sounds almost like it could be the manifold making contact with the metal undertray when the engine is twisting slightly under load. I had something similar, a metallic rattle, after fitting an Ace header - it would rattle on the undertray, but only when accelerating through certain RPM ranges. I fixed it by taking off the under tray and applying some "percussive maintenance" (ie, i found the raised rib portion of the undertray that was making contact with the manifold and flattened it with a lump hammer. If that's the problem, fairly easy to diagnose - just take off the undertray (only a few bolts holding it on) and go for a drive.

I would second this. Try and shift it backwards and forwards and see if it cracks off. I imagine it might take a little more exuberance with an automatic as the torque converter is allowing some slip.

I think it's this. There is an identical box mounted behind the trim which holds the Start button. OP - are you still able to open the boot with the key in your pocket while the car is locked?

Great stuff. Puts my mind at ease a bit. I'll ring them later to book it in. Thanks very much

Hi Mango...did you end up getting your recall work done at Beadles Medway? I've just had my recall letter through, and Medway is my closest branch, just wondering if you had any issues? I'm afraid I don't have a lot of faith in main dealers at the best of times, I'd be more comfortable knowing if Medway had some experience with this recall though. My car is also serviced and modified by Abbey (manifold/remap). Apologies for the thread bump.

If it's aftermarket manifold, I'd say checking the clearance between it and the undertray should be your first port of call, definitely. I have the ACE CS400, and when fitting, the undertray bolts needed some washers added to add some clearance, but even so, it would vibrate against it under load. The problem was solved with "percussive modification" of the undertray (ie, I flattened the part of it which was rubbing using a lump hammer).

I won't claim to be an expert on mechanical, but I think this guy might be correct. Generally a rattling noise is terminal, because it's something like a big end bearing failure, but surely this would manifest itself at all times when the engine is on - not just when the car is under acceleration. I would echo some of the suggestions above. Forget Toyota - they aren't going to honour the warranty for an engine failure as you've had it remapped, and to be honest, that's fair enough, so anything they do they will make you pay through the nose. Get in touch with someone reputable (as above Abbey Motorpsort or Fensport are probably your closest) and see what they say. Hopefully Gaham86 is right and it will be something like injector failure - it might still not be cheap, but hopefully it wont be terminal. Best of luck mate.

Thread bump! My bumper is sagging a little. Thought I'd phone the Subaru dealer, see how much those clips were in the service bulletin...looks like something I could fix myself in about 20 minutes. £15.82 each and no stock in the UK. Three week wait from Japan. Probably easier and cheaper to get hold of some scrap metal and make something yourself. As far as I can see, it's just a metal shim to reinforce the plastic and stop it from rounding. EDIT: In fact, thinking about it, there's can of Carslberg that's been sitting in my fridge since it was brought to my house for a barbecue about 4 years ago. Can't bear to drink it, but now I won't feel bad pouring it down the sink so I can recycle the can and make something myself

Managed to find an exploded diagram of the rear sub frame with the part numbers for the bushings...41651 and 41651A. Don't look to hard to replace so I'll see if I can get them from the local dealer before getting the Whiteline inserts.