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    Rochester, Kent
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  1. Conscript

    Knocking sound

    It sounds a little metallic. Do you have an aftermarket manifold? It sounds almost like it could be the manifold making contact with the metal undertray when the engine is twisting slightly under load. I had something similar, a metallic rattle, after fitting an Ace header - it would rattle on the undertray, but only when accelerating through certain RPM ranges. I fixed it by taking off the under tray and applying some "percussive maintenance" (ie, i found the raised rib portion of the undertray that was making contact with the manifold and flattened it with a lump hammer. If that's the problem, fairly easy to diagnose - just take off the undertray (only a few bolts holding it on) and go for a drive.
  2. Conscript

    Brakes seized?

    I would second this. Try and shift it backwards and forwards and see if it cracks off. I imagine it might take a little more exuberance with an automatic as the torque converter is allowing some slip.
  3. Conscript

    Identification request - what component is this?

    I think it's this. There is an identical box mounted behind the trim which holds the Start button. OP - are you still able to open the boot with the key in your pocket while the car is locked?
  4. Great stuff. Puts my mind at ease a bit. I'll ring them later to book it in. Thanks very much
  5. Hi Mango...did you end up getting your recall work done at Beadles Medway? I've just had my recall letter through, and Medway is my closest branch, just wondering if you had any issues? I'm afraid I don't have a lot of faith in main dealers at the best of times, I'd be more comfortable knowing if Medway had some experience with this recall though. My car is also serviced and modified by Abbey (manifold/remap). Apologies for the thread bump.
  6. Conscript

    Weird rattle...

    If it's aftermarket manifold, I'd say checking the clearance between it and the undertray should be your first port of call, definitely. I have the ACE CS400, and when fitting, the undertray bolts needed some washers added to add some clearance, but even so, it would vibrate against it under load. The problem was solved with "percussive modification" of the undertray (ie, I flattened the part of it which was rubbing using a lump hammer).
  7. Conscript

    Blown Engine?

    I won't claim to be an expert on mechanical, but I think this guy might be correct. Generally a rattling noise is terminal, because it's something like a big end bearing failure, but surely this would manifest itself at all times when the engine is on - not just when the car is under acceleration. I would echo some of the suggestions above. Forget Toyota - they aren't going to honour the warranty for an engine failure as you've had it remapped, and to be honest, that's fair enough, so anything they do they will make you pay through the nose. Get in touch with someone reputable (as above Abbey Motorpsort or Fensport are probably your closest) and see what they say. Hopefully Gaham86 is right and it will be something like injector failure - it might still not be cheap, but hopefully it wont be terminal. Best of luck mate.
  8. Conscript

    Front bumper 'sagging' / gap

    Thread bump! My bumper is sagging a little. Thought I'd phone the Subaru dealer, see how much those clips were in the service bulletin...looks like something I could fix myself in about 20 minutes. £15.82 each and no stock in the UK. Three week wait from Japan. Probably easier and cheaper to get hold of some scrap metal and make something yourself. As far as I can see, it's just a metal shim to reinforce the plastic and stop it from rounding. EDIT: In fact, thinking about it, there's can of Carslberg that's been sitting in my fridge since it was brought to my house for a barbecue about 4 years ago. Can't bear to drink it, but now I won't feel bad pouring it down the sink so I can recycle the can and make something myself
  9. Conscript

    OEM Differential Bushings / Whiteline KDT925

    Managed to find an exploded diagram of the rear sub frame with the part numbers for the bushings...41651 and 41651A. Don't look to hard to replace so I'll see if I can get them from the local dealer before getting the Whiteline inserts.
  10. Conscript

    OEM Differential Bushings / Whiteline KDT925

    Indeed. The good thing about this mod is it's easily reversible. I intend to give it a try but remove them if it makes the car too noisy.
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    OEM Differential Bushings / Whiteline KDT925

    This is where I get concerned. Most reviews have said there's only a small increase in noise, and generally at low speeds - but not even enough to be audible over a louder exhaust, or even the radio. My car isn't driven daily anymore, but I'd still like to keep increased in NVH to a minimum, but it can of course be a subjective measure. Did you install the inserts to the front and the rear bushing inserts? I read that you can just install the rear inserts(which are easier to access), which takes out a lot of the slack without increasing noise too much. This is probably what I'd do.
  12. Conscript

    OEM Differential Bushings / Whiteline KDT925

    I've not seen much from UK forums, apart from people mentioning they've installed them. There's more experiences on the US forums if you have a cast around, for instance: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64364 I'm not too badly affected by it, but seeing that vid of the movement and seeing how cheap the inserts are, it's the kind of minor modification I'd like to make to see if it helps how the car feels.
  13. (Cross-posting from Owners Club forum) I wanted to try a relatively common modification for this car which is to install the Whiteline KDT925 differential bushing inserts (rear inserts only). I can occasionally feel a little bit of slop when modulating the throttle - nothing major, but apparently the bushing inserts help make the car feel a bit more "taught", and also apparently help alleviate the slight clunk you get when shifting into gear at a stop*. Usually, I wouldn't bother, but they are relatively cheap and it's the kind of install that one can do on the driveway. That, and I fancy a bit of tinkering However, at the last service at Abbey back in January, Scott mentioned to me that the differential bushings were looking a little worn. Probably not unexpected at 75K miles, and not enough to cause concern, but he said keep an ear out for any clonking noises, etc, which might mean they need replacing. If I'm going to try the Whiteline inserts, I figured it would probably be best to replace the OEM bushing at the same time. But of course, I'm not having much luck looking for OEM parts, because most searches for GT86 bushings give results for aftermarket replacements. Anyone know (A) somewhere I can look up the part numbers for the OEM bushings and (B) is it possible to replace the actual bushings yourself? Installing the Whiteline bushing inserts looks easy enough. I just don't know about the bushings. If it's not possible then I'll just have to wait until I can get it to Abbey, but I'd like to have a try myself if it doesn't require any special tooling. *For anyone who isn't aware of the issue I'm talking about, there's a good demonstration here. This video is made by Whiteline to demonstrate the effectiveness of their subframe bushings. But if you keep an eye on the differential bushings (on the left of the video, in the middle of the subframe), you can see how much they flex on acceleration/deceleration). The differential inserts can reduce this. I should also add, that I would only be looking to do the rear diff inserts - the kit includes front diff inserts, but they are much harder to install, and you can apparently get almost the same improvement without them, with slightly less NVH. https://youtu.be/IDfJ_zYFPcs?t=24
  14. Conscript

    Faulty Electronic Wing Mirror

    Never had an issue driving the car daily, but I started to experience problems with my passenger wing mirror when I stopped using the car to commute and only used it infrequently. I once left it about a week and on start up, the mirror refused to unfold (I have the auto folding module so they unfold on ignition). I shut off the the car and press the ignition again and it unfolded fine. I squirted some WD40 into the mechanism which seemed to sort it for a bit, but the issue did come back. Next time I washed the car I gave the whole housing where it meets the support arm a good blast with the pressure washer. Again, this seemed to fix it, but it has happened once or twice since. I reckon it's just starting to stick now that it's being used less. A bit annoying, but now when I get in the car, I tend to just press the ignition only (which causes the mirrors to unfold) and check they open correctly, then I start the engine. If they don't unfold, they usually do so on the second attempt.
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    Rear Seat Covers

    Hmmm yeah doesn't look much better than my current solution. Something that would cover the front of the bench part would be best. Handsome looking fella there though. Here are the two dickheads I'm trying to cater for