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Pioneer AVH-X5800DAB double din multimedia unit. https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/avh-x5800dab The unit is in full working condition, with original box, and was a great improvement over the stock HU. The only reason for the sale is that I've recently upgraded to an Android Auto head unit. Some notes: The support brackets for mounting this unit are included; however you may need a new plastic fascia surround (I will include the slightly modified plastic surround the previous owner gave me, but they're a little tatty and need sticking in position on each side of the unit). An ISO wiring adapter is not included, so this will be need to be purchased separately. However, the adapter for the powered FM radio antennae is included already attached to the Pioneer loom. The unit supports DAB radio, however a DAB antennae is not included. The unit comes with it's own hands-free microphone (to be used in place of the stock mic on the steering column) - however, this will need a new sticky pad if you want to mount it to the windscreen. I am also including a Pioneer CD-MC20 Time alignment microphone. This can be used to set up the Auto EQ and Auto Time Alignment, which I found made a noticeable improvement to the speaker setup and sound quality (my new unit is a Kenwood, which doesnt support this, so no reason for me to keep the microphone). https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/cd-mc20 Price: £150 (inc. UK delivery) Location: Rochester, Kent

Might not be that hard a sell for me. I've owned a 2013 model for 7.5 years, primarily because there's little else on the market that offers what the GT86 does that I can realistically afford. I agree, the new model actually looks more like a big facelift. And exterior wise, I prefer the looks of my current car. However, if they've kept the same ethos of the current car (fun, modest power, fairly light, manual, NA, cheap to run, etc) while fixing the main deficiencies (ie, a slight power boost but more importantly, more torque in the mid range) and giving it a better, more modern interior, then I can definitely see myself moving to one when my own car becomes too long in the tooth.

Getting back onto the topic of the actual start up screen, I've had a go at making one for myself. I wanted one in the same style as the OP, but with the Toyota logo instead of Subaru. However, I then decided to add a little bit of flair. I just did a google search for "GT86 silhouette" and found a a beautiful outline image of the car posted by someone on Reddit years ago (so please, all credit to them as the original artist). I then also just searched for the Toyota logo on a black background and hey presto, manage to make what I think is a nice bootup screen Hard to take a photo of it in car due to the amount of glare, so I've attached the files here as well as .bmp images, if anyone wants to use them. You can just use them with @Shad's .txt file, just ensure the image is named "image1.bmp" on the USB stick. I believe this unit also supports custom wallpapers, so I might see if I can use the silhouette there as well. image1-logo only.bmp image1.bmp

Yeah, I am going to neaten it all up later, try and tape everything that's needed away neatly and make sure nothing is rattling around. If that's the case, I'll plug the GPS in at the same time then. Initial impressions are good, though. Screen is nice and responsive, and once I'd grounded the handbrake wire, Android Auto setup was a breeze. The mounting bracket doesn't fit fantastically, but it might just need a little fettling.

My unit arrived today. Spent my lunch break getting it set up basically, just to get power to it and take a look. This evening after work I will spend some time getting it properly fitted and make sure everything is neat and tidy. Pleased so far though @Shad - another question for you (sorry)...did you plug in the GPS antennae when you installed yours? It comes with it, but as far as I can tell, the unit doesn't have maps preinstalled...I didn't bother plugging it in yet, but navigation seems work work through Google Maps on AA fine. The only thing I can see it being needed for is the clock syncing and the compass widget. TO be honest, I'd rather not have to have an ugly GPS block sitting on the dash if I can avoid it.

Bugger. I'd hoped a flagship phone would be the one least likely to have issues. Yes, at the moment I have a magnetic fast charging wireless phone holder, so I can jut plop the phone on it, and it charges, and it's sitting in front of me if I need to use the map. My intention is to either bin that (or modify it), so that instead I have a wireless charging pad under the arm rest, with a 12v fast charger. So if I'm just popping to the shops, I can leave my phone in my pocket while still using AA, but if it's a longer journey, I can stick the phone on charge safely stowed away under the arm rest, with no wires trailing to the head unit One question you might be able to answer for me...does this unit have the ability to adjust the volume automatically based on the vehicle speed? I understand that the Kenwood units do have a Vehicle Speed Sensor pickup wire, and that it's needed if you use Apple Car Play. I don't need that, but I can't seem to confirm if the VSS wire will also allow the unit to boost volume to account for increasing road noise. It's another feature that seems to be missing from most aftermarket HUs - but our cars are pretty noisy when you get up to speed, and I hate having to fiddle with the volume regularly. For all it's faults, it's the one area where the stock unit is actually better, as it had automatic volume adjustment.

Cheers Shad. I actually found your other thread where you listed the parts you'd bought, so I've ordered the same fascia adapter as well. I actually already have an aftermarket head unit (Pioneer DAB unit), but I really wanted wireless Android Auto (for music as well). I think the ISO harness that came with that should work, and I also have a DAB aerial and mic already installed (and I think the aerial and USB adapter), so I'm hoping I can just swap the head unit itself out. If I need any other bits, I'll order them after the head unit arrives. Glad to hear the screen is better, as that's one of my gripes about the Pioneer unit I have. The UI in the Pioneer isn't fantastic either (better than OEM), so as long as the Kenwood is "as good" then I will be happy, especially if the screen is more responsive. I have a modern and fairly common Android phone (Samsung Galaxy S10), so as long as the Android Auto works okay, I will be happy. I really just want a no-nonsense solution where I can get in the car with my phone in my pocket, and have the head unit access Spotify, Maps, Audible, etc, all without me having to faff with plugging the phone in or even getting it out of my pocket. I found from experience with my girlfriend's car that Android Auto is fantastic....but because it has to be plugged in to work in her car (OEM Kia), then I never go to the bother of using it unless it's a long journey.

Going by the videos I've watched, the DDX919WS is indeed wireless (long video here: However, as it needs to be imported from abroad, I've now ordered the DMX8020DABS, same as Shad. It doesn't look like quite the perfect fit that the DDX unit is, however, it looks nice and neat in his photo above, so I'm happy with that.

Hi Shad, I've been discussing wireless Android Auto head units on the other forum. In doing that, I found the DMX8020DABS and now I'm looking at one as a potential upgrade. How are you finding the head unit in general...easy to install, use, etc? I'm keen to get wireless Android Auto and was looking at the Kenwood DDX919WS as its a perfect fit for our cars, but it's not available in the UK so would need to be ordered from Malayasia. But the DMX8020 looks available in the UK and going by your photo, fits nice with a fascia adapter there. Also...this has a capacitive touch screen am I right? Currently have a Pioneer unit with a resistive touch screen which isn't great if I'm honest. The Kenwood screens do seem superior.

Make sure you adjust the clutch switch down as well (the little push switch that is pressed in whilst the pedal is up). When I adjusted my clutch, I found that although the bite point was more comfortable, the car would bog down sometimes when I was lifting the clutch to pull away. It turns out that as well as being the cut off switch for the cruise control and the gear indicator, the switch is also linked to the ECU and retards the engine power whilst the clutch is down. So if you lower the pedal but not the switch, you might find that the engine is retarding power for too long when lifting the clutch. He does mention it in the video, but I thought it worth highlighting - I initially didn't adjust it because my CC was still cutting off correctly while the switch was in the original position. I didn't realise it affected the engine power too. Car was much better to drive after correcting the switch as well.

Did the Colgate on the headlights work long term? My drivers side light has the same milky look that yours had. I keep meaning to buy a restoration kit, but if forgotten about the toothpaste trick. What do you do, just polish it in with a cloth, allow to dry then buff off? Oddly, my passenger side is fine. Also, car looking great in general, big up the pearl white gang

So you've had spacers on for 7 years but only done 10K miles? Jesus! What mileage did the car have when you put them on? I'm assuming not that much. I think that's my problem, when I put the spacers on, the car was already on 55K 68K miles, so I was accelerating wear on already well used bearings. I may go back to the spacers - hopefully as the car has new bearings and my annual mileage has dropped to about 5-6K miles a year, it will be more than 2.5 years before I have to worry about them again. EDIT: What an idiot I am. It turns out, I was reading my own MOT history wrong (that's about the only way I can remember my mileage year to year). I put the spacers on in about March 2018 if I remember, and my MOT history for January that year shows the mileage was 68K...so the car must have had about that when the spacers went on. I started hearing the worn bearings early last year, when the car had about 80K miles. So it's actually only been about 12K miles before they wore out - but as above, whereas I'm guessing you've put spacers on a low mileage car anyway, mine was already quite tired when I installed them.

Indeed. I'm guessing lots of people have those as well, so the question applies to them too. I'm not saying it is a common problem, I'm just trying to gauge whether my bearing failures were attributable solely to the spacers, or if they only become a problem for higher mileages. Hence why I'm trying to find out how long those who've had no problems have been running spacers (or lower offsets). I'd love to put the spacer backs on, but I wouldn't love to be replacing bearings again in 30K miles, as it was two swear-word filled afternoons of misery.

Those who have been running spacers long term with no issues...how long have you had them and what mileage/age of vehicle? I installed Eibach spacers about three years ago (15/20mm). Car was on about 55K 68K miles and 5 years old. Loved the look with them on, no effect on anything else apart from slightly heavier steering. Nice. At the start of last year, I started hearing the tell tale growl of worn wheel bearings. Long story short, I ended up having to replace both my rear bearings around the middle of last year (about 83K miles on the car by then). Fearing they'd failed as a result of increased load from the spacers, I took them off when I did the bearings and didn't put them back on - it wasn't a very nice job to do and I'd rather not do it again. I know spacers will place an increased moment on the bearing, so wear will be increased to some degree, but so many others seem to have them fitted and report no issues - and most seem to have larger spacer than I did. Have I just been unlucky, or is it simply a case that bearing failure will be inevitable and I just had it because I did more miles?

Update for future reference: Lauren was right, it was the drop links. On inspection they looked fine, but as I had the car in the air anyway, I replaced them, and the noise has gone. Surprised (and annoyed), as the old links looked and felt fine after removal...no splits in the boot that I can see, and they didn't feel too loose. I may cut the boots open later and check the rose joints. And they are a pain in the arse to remove, even after only 6 months on the car. Still, preferable to having the strut assembly out.