Rich

and your Mrs would snap your credit card  

Nope. The oil lines and laminova don't hold that much anyway.
If you wanted to be anal you could change the oil, start the engine and let it mix. Then drain half the oil out and put fresh in using two 5 litre cans.
On the lexus lfa I believe they do two oil changes but no doubt that has a few oil coolers...

That 10psi was at the sandwich plate before and after which includes the restriction of the thermostatic plate, 1.5meters of oil lines and fittings.

You can also play with the water flow through the Laminova cooler to control the oil temps. Think make a Full/Partial Water restrictor for the Laminova cooler. 

You don't need to drain the oil just the coolant.
It pretty easy apart from getting the coolant pipe back on with the mocal laminova.
You can put the same coolant back in, its good for something like 12 years. However after seeing the casting sand from Nigels strip down I decided to change it.
I used Millers Alpine Red longlife. It meets all the requirements set out in the car manual. Plus it matches the colour of my car so its a no brainer really 😂
After draining I flushed it out with a few litres of deionised water first.

I'm aware of that, but as mentioned, Ade had a 99C thermostat on his plate and was still seeing oil temps around 80C while cruising on the motorway. That's a little low for my liking on a daily. I now you think oil to air is the better choice, and for a track it does give better heat rejection, but other considerations are also factors. For instance, aside from better daily temps, a water to air cooler is a much more robust solution; it's much less likely to pick up a pinhole leak from road debris or be damaged in a front end collision.
@Ade Am I right in thinking you fitted yours without draining the oil? Also did you use the eye-wateringly expensive Toyota coolant to refill?

Keeping the water temp cooler will help oil temp but not enough in this situation.
Running a water/oil cooler set up can cause issues with coolant temps rising due to the oil temperature being controlled by the lower water temp but I am sure Ade has reported his car suffers no issues with raised Water temps.. I doubt the Forester set up will be man enough to keep a GT86/BRZ motor oil cool on the circuit thou as the heat exchanger is very small in size.
 
 
 
 
 

I'm very tempted by a setup like Ade's. I'm wondering if the Forester oil cooler would be sufficient for an NA engine though. It looks like it would cost around £200 for the parts do that's a decent saving.

Meanwhile, I just see this:

So after 2 weeks without my car, I finally have her back and I missed her dearly! A massive thanks to Mike and Nick from Tuning Developments for their excellent service as usual, especially since they only needed the car for a day or two but was willing to look after her for a full 2 weeks while I was away. Also a massive thanks to Will for chauffeuring me there 
So I've had my GT86 modified with a Cobra Resonated Catback with 2nd Cat delete for many years now, not too long ago, I replaced the straight pipe for a Berk High Flow Cat ready to replace the exhaust manifold which would remove the remaining Cat on the car as well as that pesky torque dip, though now I've heard other people still failing their MOTs because the HF Cat doesn't get hot enough to pass but ah well.
Over New Year, as a late Xmas and Birthday present to myself, I decided to get the Tuning Development's increasingly popular Catless Manifold (Unequal Length version) and Overpipe, along with a another remap via ECUTek which was done on a dyno this time rather than purely on the road mapping.
The Cobra on it's own is a reasonably loud exhaust system, even when resonated (see my other videos on track for a idea of the volume) but with the UEL manifold, it's a fair bit louder when you are around the 3000rpm mark or are part or full throttle, not sure if my recent shunt at Croft has affected the back box in anyway but it is a bit rattly and resonates when you blip the throttle which makes it sound really loud.
However it does sound awesome, reminds me a lot of the Aston GT4 that I drove recently 😍 especially since it now pops and crackles more than it used to and once you are on it and you get above 4000rpm, the volume isn't much louder than it was before. I just hope that it won't cause me any issues when trying to get on track, I'm thinking that since the car needs to be tested at about 5500rpm, that it'll be quiet enough there....even though it'll be reasonably loud getting there  Suppose if it doesn't then I'll either have to get someone to weld in another silencer section or even going the whole hog and dampen the sound with a Turbo Charger 
Obviously I haven't yet full tested the car and really pushed her but so far I'm impressed, it does feel a lot more eager low down, so from 2000rpm onward, it just pulls constantly now and as you can see from the dyno plot, I gained a decent 30ftlb where the torque would normally dip. It's a shame that I didn't really get any more hp compared to some other people, and still can't figure out how I managed to drop from around 204hp to 198hp which was shortly after I had the car first mapped and the exhaust fitted, to just after my first crash with no major changes besides a quick update to the map in-between. I've managed to get back up to 202hp which I'm happy with (not really chasing numbers like) but it does bug me a bit how I've seen someone else with 213hp with a very similar setup to me.....just hope that there's nothing mechanically wrong with the car from the crash still.....as Mike and Nick did struggle to swap the manifolds over considering that all the ones they've done so far have all literally just dropped off and the new one slotted straight back on again 😖 But I keep telling myself that if anything was wrong, it would have failed by now so hay ho....just one of those things I suppose.
Also, while I was dropping Will off to pick his car up and for me to drop mine off a couple of weeks back, I had a quick play with Will's knob (waaaaay) and felt how good the MTEC Shift Spring was.....so I had to quickly dash out of the car and get Mike to add that to my job as well Highly recommended (along with the Whiteline Positive Shift Mount if you hadn't already done so), the stock gear shifts were pretty good but with these small lil mods, really transforms the feel of the gear changes, a lot more positive and assuring without any increase in stiffness (waaaaay)....now it has an even more bolt action feel to it.
 
 
 
 

Well I got her home yesterday with no issues. Snow held off and whilst it was wet, it was actually fairly sunny. Still took it easy on the way home, just cruised in the inside lane and was surprised when I got just over 47 to the gallon as an average across the 80 or so miles! 

Worth a read for anyone looking at Oil Cooler, http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114293 however I suspect most of you already know this.

80c yes @Rich Ours runs around 85-90c on the road.
 
Thanks

Blackburn is apparently almost snow free, or so a friend there tells me. You should have some time to get used to the car before having to worry.

I was sitting at around 130C for most of that day. I think aftermarket manifolds dump a fair bit more heat into the engine bay. I'm not doing much in terms of mods with my car this year, but I think an oil cooler may be on the cards for engine longevity if nothing else.

I'm in the northwest and the snow is pretty minimal up here. You shouldn't have a problem - I was able to drive to work without issues, it's more wet roads than full on snow conditions.

It's much less intrusive. I'll try to remember to take a picture of mine.

Post-charger air temperatures don't affect the density of air, so you won't get power falloff due to lower intake air density. You might get power falloff due to knocking causing the ECU to back off from the high temperatures, but that is pretty much the only way you would.
The reasoning is that the air density that matters is the pre-charger density, which is only determined by atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature. Once the air has been pulled into the charger it's in a closed system and so the density cannot change via temperature changes. Increasing temperature in a fixed volume system (such as a car's intake manifold) will increase pressure rather than reducing density.

I was concerned about how they would look on the car against the blue wheels. Turns out they work quite well though! All I need now is a union jack on the roof...

Little update, exhaust is obviously fitted. Overpipe was slightly catching the subframe but CGR made a new overpipe no problem and I went up and had that fitted this weekend. Exhaust sounds much better now it doesn't rattle  Booked in for some dyno time and alignment with @Mark@Abbey M/S for 20th in preparation for my Brands Hatch outing on 27th!
Brakes were also fitted before christmas but due to me being ill/drunk and the car being filthy couples with it getting dark too early i've struggled to get pics. Washed the car and took some earlier though! 


 

As its now 2017 its time for an update on my build, but first I'm going to start off by wishing everyone a Happy New Year.
Anyway back to the car, I'd originally planned to go supercharged at the end of last year, however due to a supply issue I cancelled this after a couple of months.
I then spent a couple of day thinking about what to do instead of the supercharger, I decided to stay N/A and purchase some more modifications. First on the list was a big brake kit as I've always felt the brakes on the car were lacking some stopping power. This provided a substantial challenge in deciding what kit to go for, after spending considerable time looking at the various options available I came to the conclusion that none of the existing setups matched my exact needs. After discussing this with @Ade he suggested I contact a company called Reyland Motorsport who make custom big brake kits. Over the following week I exchanged several emails with Reyland and we came up with a kit which meet my needs. 
The custom kit I ended up with consists of red AP Racing CP9200 calipers, AP Racing 330x28mm discs with custom hats, brackets and Ferodo DS2500 pads. Here are some photo's of the kit:



Fitted to the car:


I also decided to upgrade the rear disc's to match the grooved fronts, so I selected Stoptech grooved rear discs.

I still need to bed the brakes in, but they feel much better already. (Once I'm back on summer tyres that will help the bed in process massively)
The next mod I purchased was a Perrin 3" Cold Air Intake system with silicone intake tube, thanks to @James@Amber for providing this. 

I also purchased MTEC shift and clutch springs. In my opinion the shift springs are fantastic, a definite must for our cars. However I don't really like the change in feel of the clutch spring.
The final mods I ordered were a HKS resonated decat pipe and Powerflex front and rear subframe bushes. I decided against fitting the decat pipe due to the extra noise it'd produce (This will be put up for sale soon). 
Finally due to the change in intake I needed to get the car remapped again, this time I decided to get the car dyno mapped by Tuning Developments. 
Here is the before and after dyno graph:

As you can see @Mike@TD.co.uk managed to smooth out the mid range and get a little bit more power at the top end. 
One last comment, @Keethos thank you for providing the transport to and from TD.

I did have it on as well but it got a bit busy. It's between the red and green lines.
EDIT: Here's stock vs 4.55:

Are you getting the matching outfit?
 
 

You can do it from the front; manifold just drops straight out once you unbolt it, then wiggle the overpipe out of its slot after removing heatshields.
I had severely seized nuts on the overpipe heatshields and on the catback (the latter required some serious air powered impact gun action).

Stock overpipe won't come out without removing at least one heatshield, even with the manifold off. Aftermarket overpipes should just slide out once the manifold is off. Manifold side is much easier than front pipe for getting the overpipe in or out.