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6 hours ago, Rich said:

I have some combined spigot rings with centre caps, in aluminium, that I got from the US forum. Only available for my wheels unfortunately.

TC105N-centering-caps.jpg

I'm surprised more places haven't done something like this. Over the years I've not had much problem with spigots but I have lost quite a few centre caps whilst on track!

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BTW, in case someone of you like me buys used aftermarket wheels that are discontinued (and/or manufacturer (or rebrand reseller) is not around anymore), and wheels lack center caps, so you cannot find out what type/model one should buy from looking at model on back of old caps, at the end i found this place of universal caps solving issue. They simplify measures to be taken to get right cap, due each one having many legs of different hight. Prior this i tried these, but no matter how close i tried to get measurements down, purchased ones were of poor fit and i already lost two of them falling off when driving over bad roads. I guess that there might be chance for some TWS caps to fit my Technicraft/Taneisya wheels due TWS being Taneisya's consumer wheels daughter-brand, but i did't want to buy several TWS caps sets off ebay for 100eur each to try which one fits or not.

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52 minutes ago, Deacon said:

I'm surprised more places haven't done something like this. Over the years I've not had much problem with spigots but I have lost quite a few centre caps whilst on track!

Not a problem for me, but I've seen that too - at Blyton earlier in the year someone's (I think it was Alex's) caps were literally pinging off in the paddock from wheel heat.

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About to order the OZ Alleggerita's. They did advise I check the offset as OZ only say ET48 is fine for the GT86 and I'd like to go for ET35. Anyone else running 18x8 ET35's? If I was with the car I'd go and measure it to see if it was OK but I can't see it being an issue

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Heres a performance wheel guide on weight.

 

http://soloracer.com/racewheels.html

 

I run enkei rpf1s 18x8 they weigh 8.6kg (no tire) which is lighter than stock. Also almost as light as forged. Ie te37 from volk. Used on race cars as they are about as strong and light as you can get without going forged and putting down the bigger bucks. Hope this helps.

 

 

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On 22/06/2016 at 8:30 PM, KobayashiMaru said:

Where are people buying there wheels from? Problem I'm finding is I see a wheel I like but finding it in the right sizes is a pain or even finding a UK supplier of Japanese brands. Enkei, Advan, Rays and Volk are on the list so far.

Yes Japanese on a Japanese car. Word. Performancealloys.com if Europe's largest alloy wheel supplier. If they don't have them on their site they will get them for you. Also send them balanced valved and tires fitted. :)

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Those wheel weights are fairly approximate, so give a rough guide. I'm not sure if something is lost as they seem to be listed in pounds. For example my 17x8 TE37 are said to weigh 7.57kg. But Rays list them at 7.2kg. Mine when powdercoated came in at 7.4kg which would seem about right with the addition of the powder coat. Not a huge difference, but I admit I can't work in antiquated bloody pounds and ounces! 

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5 minutes ago, Lauren said:

Those wheel weights are fairly approximate, so give a rough guide. I'm not sure if something is lost as they seem to be listed in pounds. For example my 17x8 TE37 are said to weigh 7.57kg. But Rays list them at 7.2kg. Mine when powdercoated came in at 7.4kg which would seem about right with the addition of the powder coat. Not a huge difference, but I admit I can't work in antiquated bloody pounds and ounces! 

I just do a Google conversion ;)

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In terms of suppliers, also try Demon Tweeks, Rarerims or Driftworks.

Usually they can all source you something specific on special order if it's available.

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8 minutes ago, KobayashiMaru said:

Wheel nuts? Thought I'd only need longer ones if I was spacing but if I'm going to 18x8 do I still need them?

I don't know my self where any one has used bolts on this car to hold wheels on I know you can get longer studs I think

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I would say get wheel nuts for the new wheels. Even better if you can get OZ ones, I got some Rays ones for my wheels. The stock ones look terrible , especially so with aftermarket wheels. Also check the angle on them as they may not be ideal for aftermarket wheels. 

But make sure you buy steel not aluminium ones. 

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1 minute ago, Lauren said:

I would say get wheel nuts for the new wheels. Even better if you can get OZ ones, I got some Rays ones for my wheels. The stock ones look terrible , especially so with aftermarket wheels. Also check the angle on them as they may not be ideal for aftermarket wheels. 

But make sure you buy steel not aluminium ones. 

Thanks Lauren. I didn't know if it was nuts or bolts as I've never taken the wheels off myself. Everything VAG group is bolts.

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Yep, just standard arse covering. The stock wheel nuts will probably be fine, but just check the angle of the pitch as they mate to the new wheels. Otherwise just get some nice steel nuts. Decent aftermarket wheel nuts will cost you £50+ the crappy aluminium ones that you can buy are not worth it really. 

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Generic wheel question for the wheel thread:

Does anyone with 18" wheels notice that it changed how the gearing felt?

I was thinking about getting 18s with a dual purpose of slightly lowering the final drive ratio. Is it at all noticeable?

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