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Deacon

Deacons '86

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50 minutes ago, Deacon said:

As do the goodridge from when I was looking before. This does simply seem to be a case of them not being properly tightened when installed though thankfully but I will be keeping an eye on them for the next few weeks to be double sure!

I've heard many horror stories about braided lines over the years, with varying brands....... you barely (if at all) hear that with OEM rubber lines. HEL and Goodridge more than others, but it's one of the reasons I wouldn't fit any on my car. I'd rather reliability over a little extra feel. If the metal outer part wears and rubs though the rubber inner then you end up with a very sudden failure, it doesn't take much for that to happen either if the kit isn't well designed to account for suspension and wheel movement.

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50 minutes ago, Deacon said: As do the goodridge from when I was looking before. This does simply seem to be a case of them not being properly tightened when installed though thankfully but I will be keeping an eye on them for the next few weeks to be double sure!

I've heard many horror stories about braided lines over the years, with varying brands....... you barely (if at all) hear that with OEM rubber lines. HEL and Goodridge more than others, but it's one of the reasons I wouldn't fit any on my car. I'd rather reliability over a little extra feel. If the metal outer part wears and rubs though the rubber inner then you end up with a very sudden failure, it doesn't take much for that to happen either if the kit isn't well designed to account for suspension and wheel movement.

 

I've not been happy with my hel lines. Will probably go back to oem rubber ones at my next fluid change on the front at least.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

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Just now, Rich said: What's the effect of the toe settings? I'm a bit of an alignment noob.

 

 

The front toe should make it a little more pointy but also a little unstable in a straight-line / under braking. The rear toe should make it more stable and heat the rear tyres quicker I understand.

 

 

 

I like a bit of teo out at the front for turn in feel. As you say makes it a little less stable under braking. Our front struts actually teo out a little under compression so braking and entering a corner.

 

 

Toe in at the back can reduce oversteer. I think @kevin has alot of teo in at the back iirc from blyton last year. Also helps stright line stability when putting power down. The back end toes in under compression so hard acceleration causes more teo in, probably for stability.

 

 

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9 hours ago, Ade said:

 

I've not been happy with my hel lines. Will probably go back to oem rubber ones at my next fluid change on the front at least.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

I'll do the same of I have further issues. Will you refit your existing OEM hoses @Ade or fit new OEM? Sure I read somewhere it's better to fit new than refit ones that have been removed but I may be misremembering.

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10 minutes ago, Deacon said:

I'll do the same of I have further issues. Will you refit your existing OEM hoses @Ade or fit new OEM? Sure I read somewhere it's better to fit new than refit ones that have been removed but I may be misremembering.

Yeah id fit new ones unless they are silly money. 

My Hels I had to cable tie them each side of the bracket to keep them from moving about and snagging when going full lock. Thankfully I notice this when I installed them, but I could see how they could snag when turning the wheel if they were no secured. 

 

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Just now, Ade said:

Yeah id fit new ones unless they are silly money. 

My Hels I had to cable tie them each side of the bracket to keep them from moving about and snagging when going full lock. Thankfully I notice this when I installed them, but I could see how they could snag when turning the wheel if they were no secured. 

 

We tried that while I was at Moton and it didn't seem to be an issue. 

I also seem to remember somewhere the suggestion that if you do track the car treating the lines as consumables to change every few years is a good idea so I'd probably go brand new OEM too I think.

See how the hels get on for a bit.

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I have just had my geo redone and SPL LCA's fitted. 

2 deg's camber front and back with bit of toe in on front and toe out on rear. Car feels a lot more balanced now and you can feel the difference accelerating out of corners.

I run goodridge hoses as never like hel 

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2 hours ago, Cerastes said:

Thanks to me right? :lol:

YES actually haha. TBF he's one of the only car related channels I'm subbed to but I hadn't seen that one :P

Sorry @Deacon, back to your car...

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6 minutes ago, Ztox said:

YES actually haha. TBF he's one of the only car related channels I'm subbed to but I hadn't seen that one :P

Sorry @Deacon, back to your car...

Haha! No worries. I too had watched the video 😂

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On the subject of brake hoses I've done about 75 miles since Moton tightened up the passenger side hose and had a good chance to have a look tonight. Good news is that it does appear it just wasn't quite tightened properly as there was no sign of any brake fluid. I also got my girlfriend to sit with her foot on the brake pedal for a while while I looked and still no signs of any fluid so hopefully that problem is sorted. The brakes definitely feel much better for having the hose properly tightened and now feel as if expected them to feel when they were installed.

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After getting lost in the post and having to be resent by dash vent gauge pod finally arrived today.

I fitted the SPA gauge in just to make sure it fitted and it's a very tight fit. I was going to ask @AJ124 to wrap it in alcantara to match my dash panels, etc but sadly I think the fitment will be too tight to allow this so now I need to decide what to do with it ahead of fitting.

IMG_20170608_122848_Hagrid.jpg

I've decided I'm going to get the gauge fitted first and gather some date on what the oil temperature and pressures are actually doing before I decide whether to go ahead with the oil cooler fitting.

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8 minutes ago, AJ124 said:

Could you trim 1mm off where its tight? Alcantara is 0.8mm and will compress a bit.

The pod is about as long as the gauge so it'd need the whole inside taking out by 1mm which I think would be tricky. How much overlap into the pod would the alcantara need to be stuck down safely? Wondering if I could dremel it out just that distance.

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30 minutes ago, AJ124 said:

The alcantara would only need say 10mm wrapped round just to stop it coming off. 

I'll have another look later and see if it'd be doable.

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Collected my car from Rogue Motorsport today having had my SPA combined temperature and pressure gauge fitted:-IMG_20170804_124546_Hagrid_Black.thumb.jpg.7355e572c36341a6c264be41111a46ee.jpg

It's a very neat installation into the vent pod and then gauge seems to work really well. I'm going to see what it shows from Bedford on Monday to decide whether to proceed with my oil cooler installation.

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20 minutes ago, Ade said:

 

 

looks very neat. Where are the sensors getting the readings from?

 

 

 

 

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Pressure is from the block, temp is from the sump.

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2 minutes ago, KevinA said:

Is that an add on as don't think OEM reads oil pressure.

It's not from obd it's reading from sensors plugged directly into the block and the sump 👍

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A quick video showing the SPA gauge on startup below:-

I was at Bedford for a track day yesterday and used the gauge to keep an eye on the oil temperature and pressure on track. The pressures were ok but the oil temperature was easily hitting 120° within 3 laps so I'm pretty sure I'm going to go ahead with the oil cooler installation.

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