Test Drives Unlimited

Sorry guys It's like Rob said was catching up with the 86 Life as I simply not had time to post up plus I did say to Rob and the 2 Keith's  that I was start getting more involved with the day to day posting on the Forum and Club
There was a back log to go through
 
 

Sorry I will still be in Belgium  and not due back in the UK until 4pm approx 

The Toyota head unit, is really not that good. Fit something decent aftermarket and I think you will find it much better for just about everything. I had an Alpine INE 925R (fitted in April 2013), that has DAB, Satnav and an actual pre-out for an amp, far better sound quality etc. Okay, not cheap at £800 but when you compare to the cost of the sat nav, it really is a no brainer. 

That's the conclusion I've come to. Especially given that an aftermarket unit shouldn't look 'too' aftermarket in the Toyota dash, I reckon it'll be money better spent to simply get a decent double din dab/nav device installed along with whatever aerials etc are needed.

For what it's worth I have one of the small external magnetic DAB aerials on my Citroen, and whilst it's not exactly pretty, it works superbly. Supposed to be better than stuck on windscreen ones...

I replace mine with a Green 12 LED bulb and this is so bright now

I got mine from Fensport and fitted by them

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General information update
 
I shipped the broken trans back to Kris at SSP in the States. He promised to get into stripping it immediately and get back to me - it took five weeks.
 
He pronounced the problem as "overheating" but could not go into better detail as his technician was in Hawaii or somewhere on holiday.
 
He got back to me on Tuesday. 1st and 4th dog clutches had "disappeared" - completely burned out, not a shred left of the upgraded friction material. It's down to me and my driving, he implied ..
 
Then . . .  Hallelujah! He received back a transmission with *IDENTICAL" issues from another user - it is not down to me (spit on LFA).
 
The diagnosis, following analysis of both transmissions is ".. oil surge.." - the shallow sump, with the oil pickup sited towards the rear and 10mm off the floor, is allowing the pump to gulp air when the oil moves under G-force. The result is obvious . .
 
Kris suggests it is 'cornering forces'. It is not - Merkins don't do cornering on drag strips, hence his claim his trans can handle "600+bhp".
 
I have discussed the findings with Fensport. I am developing a modified transmission oil sump/uptake to my own ideas and with their technical input. I shall test it.
 
I am also inviting Kris at SSP to modify my spare trans to his specification/design and I I will ship that back to the UK to try it.
 
If both fail I will revert my car to n/a. Toyo are totally disinterested in "performance" or "mods" to the autotrans (knowing it is a crap detuned Lexus abortion). A perverse view, since autos are their biggest sales in the US / Far East.
 
This has been a public service announcement.
 
Spec K

I like the New Blue

Not sure about the New Custom Leather Seat design though

Think I prefer the look of the previous Custom Leather Seat design

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Lauren you forgot to mention " Plus £160 for the Map License "
So for a 10bhp gain the cost is £660 so far more economical to get Exhaust etc... done first

At least that way you would have a 20bhp gain instead

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I had a fantastic time with a group of nice friends

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Warranty wise, go on the basis that the part you replace will lose its warranty. It goes without saying really!
 
With regards to insurance, as Keith says, declare everything. Most small things they won't charge more for, for example my wheels, exhaust and kit haven't cost me any more with Sky, but my Supercharger did.It hugely depends on the unsurer you are with. When it's up for renewal, consider the mod friendly insurers
 
- Adrian Flux
- Prestige
- Sky
 
Other insurers are available

Another good tip is to declare things that you might eventually get done so you don't add them later and get charge Admin fees each time you add a mod.

1. It shouldn't but this will heavily be determined by your dealer, some dealers will claim you have voided your warranty completely because they either believe that (even though it's incorrect) or they just don't want the hassle/risk that they can't claim the work through Toyota. The actual fact is that if you change anything on your car, you lose the warranty on that part only, the rest of the car is still covered unless something happens due to this new aftermarket part. For example if you replaced your suspension and you then have problems with your engine, you'll still be covered as changing the suspension would have nothing to do with the engine failure, but if you had slapped a turbo on there and started to have engine problems, you might struggle to get that covered.

2. With regards to insurance, I would personally declare everything, each insurance company work slightly differently so some might need to know the simplest of changes like stickers while some don't. So rather than risking voiding your policy, I'd declare everything. One of the guys on here had a small crash and had to claim it through the insurance company, now when they assessed the car, they almost voided the whole insurance policy because they thought he had a turbo fitted when in fact it was just some aftermarket hoses (retarded I know), so if you ever do claim, make sure you've declared everything or else they could easily void your insurance. Also something worth noting, some insurance companies don't like mods or only allow a small number of mods.

Is it worth mentioning that I have covered 68K miles on my original set of wiper blades and they still work just fine!

Can't believe I had to turn my PC on at this time of night just to reply 
 
I'll begin by saying, I have listened to every point you've made, and have replied to, or made comment on what you've said in every post, so I clearly AM listening to your points. In fact, I would counter that argument of "not wanting to listen", back to yourself. I have made my intentions quite clear on several occasions, and given my reasoning for doing so. At no point have you offered any advice that helps me. All you have said is that I'm wrong, and your way is basically the only way, as well as told me why your way is right by explaining how, where and how often you drive your car. That's all great, and I'm sure something I could read in depth in a topic that you've started covering the matter (if such a thing exists). This is not that place. I asked for opinions, explained why I wasn't sold on your opinion, and expected some other reply than being told I'm wrong.
 
As everyone else has said, this whole debate is opinion based, and I've never said otherwise. Some people have agreed with me, some have agreed with you, some are in between and can see both perspectives. My issue isn't that someone has a different opinion than mine, my issue is that my opinion is being passed off as inferior, and wrong, just because it's different.
 
Also, the fact that so many assumptions are being made about me, by a senior member of the forum who should know better, when in reality, nobody here knows anything about me.
 
I worked damn hard for this car. I saved, I worked extra hours and I shopped around for a long time to get a good deal. As part of that saving, I also put aside a bit of money to replace parts that I would consider worthwhile replacing after reading so much about the car, so I find it very disrespectful to have, what was a big deal for me (buying this car) brushed off as if it's some sort of everyday thing. I didn't just "spend £20k or 30k" on the car, I worked hard and achieved a goal I set for myself (try to remember how it was for you growing up in your early 20's trying to afford a decent car).
 
I also hate the fact that, due to the above, I'm being told I'm "skimping" on parts. No. Unlike some people, I can't just empty thousands out of my account willy nilly on parts so I can turn my PC on and brag about how great my car is. I have to be realistic, and balance what I can afford with what I want to get out. If I want to make my car handle a little better, £1000 on coilovers won't have as good of an effect as spreading that money equally on suspension, tyres, stiffening, lightening etc. and that's a fact. If I had money to spend on coilovers, I'd have already got them. I'd probably already have the car supercharged with a RB body kit and painted matte purple or something also, but I don't, so please, don't tell me I'm "doing it wrong" just because I don't have the luxury that some people do.
 
And as a final thing before I just turn my PC off and be done with this forum altogether, please don't assume that because I'm new here, I'm new to online forums. I help to run an online car forum with a couple of hundred active members, and have been signed up to various car forums since before I could even drive, probably over 10 years. I have even designed, owned and ran my own forum (unrelated to cars) for a good period. My opinions of online forums are not based on "preconceptions", but experiences.
 
I came from a club which some of you may have heard of, called "Rebel Motorsport Club" (I have no issue in talking about the situation as none of them have time for people outside of their group anyway). There were multiple people on that site who acted like spoiled little brats on a school yard. If somebody bought something for their car, a week later someone would buy something better, and all the people like myself, my dad, and a few friends of ours who had little interest in this competition, were looked down upon. Almost never invited to events, and had our opinions on anything dismissed. The funny thing is, none of the people on this site ever took their car on a track. They spent tens of thousands of pounds on their cars, just to brag about them online and explain how great their car was to people at car shows.
 
When I join a forum and see someone say "don't do that, it's pointless, do this", rather than "if you have the budget, do this, if not, your best option for what you want is this", I can't help but recall that situation.
 
Now I can see that Lauren is clearly respected here by many people, from both a personality point of view and for her talent behind the wheel, so I'm sure I'm not getting the best side of her here and am more than happy to see that, but nothing gives her or anyone else the right to tell anyone that they're wrong because they can't afford to be as spendthrift as themselves.
 
I'm not even gonna get back into the other, completely pointless and rather pedantic discussion. I know I'm right, and I could write another 10 paragraphs explaining why, but at the end of the day, that's not what this topic was about, and quite frankly, proving that I understand a good part of how I make a living, just to prove someone else wrong on an online forum is not my intention. 

Well I would like to thank Fensport for fitting my New Reversing Camera yesterday

This was the first time that they had ever fitted such a Kit to the GT86/BRZ and now that they know how to fit such a Kit,they will be offering this service to other Customers

A couple of Photos Post below :

Just read the whole thread sorry to hear about your new car

Glad it's being repaired

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Mind you don't upset the Admin Nigel  . Only they are allowed to have opinions on THEIR forum

I too am Insured through LV and can't fault them
 
So far found Prestige useless !!!!

The EU has decided that all  Euro notes will henceforth be printed on Greece-proof paper

Hi,

I discovered the alarm control panel in the glovebox today, and the post on here describing how to turn on anti-hijack doors. This inspired me to find more codes. It turns out the alarm is a Sigma S32, shared with the 2014 impreza. Codes to play with (AT YOUR OWN RISK) are below. I haven't tried all of these (yet!):

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR PIN BEFORE YOU TRY THE ANTI KEY THEFT CODE - YOU NEED THE PIN TO START THE CAR!

(Hope that was clear! my mate's scooby was dead for 2 days until he got hold of the previous owner and his PIN!)


Sources:
http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/mechanicals/58018-2014-wrx-technical-issues-3.html
http://www.scoobynet.com/security-16/953357-sigma-s32-codes.html
The S32 Installation guide (i bought a copy!)
 
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Standard user controls 
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Ignition Must be ON, not on Accessory power
 
0 - Last Trigger Isolation --> Allows the alarm to ignore the last sensor that caused the alarm to sound.  Effectively used to disable faulty sensor but still turn the alarm on
1 - Turns off the alarm arming tone for the next time used (if tones are set)
2 - Turns off the ultrasonic sensors for next time used
3 - Turns off the sensor prewarning feature for next time used
4 - Turns off the single and dual trigger sensors  for next time used
5 - Turns off the ultrasonic, single and dual trigger sensors for next time used
6 - combination of 4 and 5
7 - switches safety lock on/off (so car locks as you turn on ignition)
8 - display battery voltage
9 - nothing
* - toggles volume of prewarn beep
 
To make the passenger door unlock at the same time as the driver door:
Ensure ignition is off, driver door left open. Hold the lock and unlock buttons together for about 5 seconds (it will issue a beep)
 
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Super secret squirrel programming codes
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To use : Ignition must be off

Reset to default settings:
*17856*880#

Auto arm with door locking 60 seconds after the last door has been closed, Note make sure keys arn't in the vehicle:

*17856 wait for the beep *004*1# turns it on. everytime a door is opened it will beep twice to inform you that its active
 
Auto arm without door locking 60 seconds after the last door has been closed:

*17856 wait for the beep *003*1# turns it on. everytime a door is opened it will beep twice to inform you that its active
  door unlock/locking beeps:
*17856 wait for the beep *000*1# turns the beep on when locking and unlocking although admittedly not very loud
 
*17856 *002 * 0 or * 1 then #
Turns on safety locking through the programming code (similar to pressing 7 in the user options) but with more options on lock timings and pulse
 
*17856 *005 * 0 or * 1 then #
Auto-Rearm & Relock (if the alarm is turned off but no doors are opened etc)
*17856 *007 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 4 Function
Can be used for boot release upon button hold or can be configured to allow Remote Engine Start/Stop devices (such as turbo timers i guess).  If you need more info please ask

*17856 *008 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 3 (Total Closure) Operation - on Arm
*0 = “Timed”. A passive, timed negative output is provided on Acc. Wire 3, every time the system is armed, to operate Total Closure (Total Closure Time *121 must be adjusted from 0 to select the output period if required). When held on arming, TX button 1 still operates Panic.
*1 = “Hold Down”. A negative output is provided on Acc. Wire 3 only whilst TX button 1 remains held on arming after 3 seconds, up to a maximum of 26seconds
(Total Close Time *121 will not affect the output time) When *1 selected, panic can only be operated from optional 2 button TX
NB: Only S30 & 34 models.
* 0 (“Timed” & Panic)

*17856 *009 * 0 or * 1 then #
Extend Standard CDL Lock Pulse - On/Off (only when TX button 1 held)
Can be used with the above or as an alternative total closure option, where the vehicle already has a total closure circuit that can be operated from the standard CDL lock connections. When switched on, the Std CDL Lock pulse is extended (second pulse in the case of double pulse settings) as long as the TX button remains pressed, up to a maximum of 26seconds.
When *1 selected, panic can only be operated from optional 2 button TX
* 0 (off)

*17856 *010 * 0 or * 1 then #
Arm/Disarm Indicator Flash - On/Off
For both radio key and direct switched systems
* 1 (on)

*17856 *011 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 8 Function -
*0 = Internal Panic Circuit. Configures system to activate Panic Mode whilst an earth input is detected on this wire.
*1 = Closed Loop Protection. Configures system to trigger when the circuit
becomes open when armed.
NB: Only S1, 4, 30, 32 & 34 models
* 0 (Internal Panic)

*17856 *012 * 0 or * 1 then #
Positive Door Switch Input or Internal Panic Circuit
*0 = Internal Panic Circuit. Configures system to activate Panic Mode whilst a
12v input is detected on this wire.
*1 = Positive Door Switch. Configures system to trigger when the circuit becomes
12v when armed.
NB: Only S12, 30, 32 & 34 models
* 1( “+” Switch)

*17856 *013 * 0 or * 1 then #
Key Theft Protection - On/Off
NB: Only S4, 30, 32 & 34 models
* 0 (off)

*17856 *014 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 6 (Headlamp Illumination) Operation -
*0 = Arm Only. Configures the timed output to occur only when the system is “actively” Armed (illumination does not occur when Auto-Arming or Auto-
Rearming).
*1 = Arm & Disarm. Configures the timed output to occur when the system is both “actively” Armed & Disarmed (illumination does not occur when Auto-Arming or Auto-Rearming).
NB: Only S30, 32 & 34 models
* 0 (Arm Only)

*17856 *015 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 1 Function -
*0 = Alarm Armed Output. Negative output provided whilst the security system remains armed.
*1 = Total Closure Output. Negative output on arming, this can be “timed” or on “hold down” adjustable using *008 and *121. Wire 1 then behaves and can be adjusted as Wire 3 would be if fitted.
NB: Only S4 models
*0 (Armed Output)

*17856 *016 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 2 Function -
*0 = Aux Siren/Pager Output. Negative output provided whilst the security system is triggering.
*1 = Total Open/Boot Release Output. Negative output on disarming, this can be “timed” or on “hold down” adjustable using *006 and *122. . Wire 2 then behaves and can be adjusted as Wire 4 would be if fitted.
NB: Only S4 models
 
 
 
 
 
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Other stuff I have if needed
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Sensitivity Adjustment Timings for locks and lock pulses (unlikely you will need this!) Diagnostic codes to hunt for reasons why your alarm is having issues Adding keys to the system Installation and wiring info

Which is fine if you're a normal human being. But I'm a compulsive fiddler so I can't leave alone anyway...

The most hideous watches i've seen! Sorry!

Well get you.....I'm 2 1/2 hours away :'( Anyone know what time it starts/what time we should get there for?

Can't stand him but will see how it goes.