surrey86

That's a lot of GT86 for the money, especially considering the mileage.

Took me a while to find it ,this is the best review for FI kits with all sorts of data and slants just from across the Atlantic. Take your time and read it a few times over Jay. Edelbrock is very similar to Harrop as it uses the same charger Eaton TVS 1320. So reference it that way and enjoy making your mind up.

https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/showcase/the-2018-86-challenge-presented-by-eneos/2/


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They do, same as OEM.
Top marks for trying to justify a BBK to yourself by that issue though. 😁

Forrester, going through a puddle?
https://goflatoutph.com/2019/05/21/many-unibody-suvs-cant-go-off-road-and-then-theres-the-subaru-forester-with-video/

You don't want to mount it to the plastic under tray. If you go off on track and pull the bumper off....

They seize on better with a BBK. More stiction, enhanced seizure performance.
@VAD17's BBK is best for this. His kit performed so well he had to have his car recovered to a garage using a crane.

They're not all equal TBH, this will be controversial... that's why people are suggesting you search on previous discussions. 
There's a fair difference between a turbo and an SC. An SC feels more like you've got a big 3.0 NA engine, probably a touch easier to drive on the limit. A turbo is more of a punch, the sort of push you back in the seat feeling, bit more drama.
Cosworth SC's discontinued, getting replacements parts in the future might be interesting.
HKS SC - there were some issues with the SC unit itself failing but it appears to have been quietly resolved. Not as much mid-range as a PD supercharger (i.e. Cosworth, Harrop), more of a screamer.
Harrop SC's haven't seen much reliability issues reported, but they are expensive.
Sprintex SC's run hot intake temperatures on track, bit of a first-gen SC. Fine on the road. The track issues can be worked around but if this is for regular track use you'd be advised to look elsewhere.
TD Turbo - Can be clearance issues with the exhaust > coolant pipe, and the air filter with the oil cooler fittings. There's a regular trackdayer on here who has to take a spare filter with him to trackdays as the engine movement keeps contacting the airfilter and snapping it's mounting. I've seen it myself.
AVO Turbo kit - I don't know of any reliability issues with these but probably a lot more TD kits out there at the moment due to the big price difference until recently. I get the impression the turbo unit itself in the cheaper kits is not of as good quality as the TD one.
 
There you go, that's my unbiased anecdotal opinion guaranteed to annoy some people!
 
 

They seize on better with a BBK. More stiction, enhanced seizure performance.
@VAD17's BBK is best for this. His kit performed so well he had to have his car recovered to a garage using a crane.

They seize on better with a BBK. More stiction, enhanced seizure performance.
@VAD17's BBK is best for this. His kit performed so well he had to have his car recovered to a garage using a crane.

They do, same as OEM.
Top marks for trying to justify a BBK to yourself by that issue though. 😁

They do, same as OEM.
Top marks for trying to justify a BBK to yourself by that issue though. 😁

Great article in Feb issue of EVO mag!  GR Yaris versus 22b and Quattro Sport. GRY acquits itself well against these rally-bred giants. I had not realised that a 22B commands £150-200k, and a Quattro £500k. Makes the GRY appear great value to get that kind of buzz today.

The Fensport turbo kit used to be a lot more expensive, they brought the price down not long ago to be more competitive with the TD kit, which when it arrived blew the others out of the water on value.
Personally if I was going for a turbo, I prefer the design of the Fensport kit with the turbo mounted low and keeping an enclosed air filter so less heat soak. Also Adrian has done a lot of track development with it's design in sprint series, and supports those series financially. I believe the cheaper AVO kits have less headroom for power increases than the standard TD turbo units, though - and the TD is dyno mapped, which is nice to get real data on the improvements beyond the arse-dyno.

Not sure it's a good idea straightaway. I fitted coilovers to my Impreza, made it quite a bit more focused, changed the character quite a bit - a lot more so that fitting coilovers to the gt86. Nitron's won't be cheap either, I'd be suprised if there's much change from 3k.

To be honest mine was probably the best track mod by far I did to my car, well that and the brakes. It's just nice not to have to worry about oil all the time. It was pretty handy to have blasting down the autoroutes in the South of France at 37 degrees ambient too!
The Mishimoto one might be a good cost/function compromise as that one doesn't have airbox clearance issues with the sandwich plate connections. (It uses banjos)

iirc even with a thermostat they are always slightly open, which means they run colder. Don't listen to people who say oil has to get to 100c to burn off condensation though - if that was the case puddles would never evaporate from the street, but they do.
The cheap HEL kits and possibly TD (I'm not sure) use generic angled couplings which have clearance issues with the airbox, and lot of people have to hack it up to prevent rubbing. I think Deacon spent a fortune making up a custom airbox to get around it. What you're getting with the HKS kit is a bit more thought put into it, and where the cooler goes.

I have an oil pressure gauge in my eyeline and only ever noticed pressure dropping at Coram at Snetterton, when I was using AD08R tyres on a really warm day. It wasn't dropping that fast but it was coming down. Never noticed it anywhere else.

I hope it wasn't that terrible he's sending me nudes later.

I have the HKS kit that sits behind the front-right fog light opening. Build quality seems excellent, no rubbing issues from the hoses on the airbox as it's properly designed and uses a banjo connection. Last winter trackday I did oil temperatures were barely getting over 100! Also fairly easy to block off the intake if you need to, although I haven't bothered so far.
The installation needs some plastics trimming behind the bumper slightly, and a hole cut in the wheel arch trim for a mesh to go on (for the heat to exhaust out of the back of the cooler). All documented in the instructions.

Probably worth mentioning a few people have had scraping issues with Reyland's own discs on track after they heat up. Seems they might expand more than say AP discs.
From what I've heard they take bog standard OEM discs from other cars and machine them down. 
The kit comes with the correct tabs to mount the lines to the shock absorber body.

They aren't tight on my ET40 18x7.5's.. but it does depend on the wheel design. Seems unlikely you would have a problem.
Also I think red wouldn't look good against orange FWIW.

Assuming your going for the 330mm kit with CP9200 calipers, there is massive amount of choice when it comes to pads. 
Here are the pads I've used:
Ferrodo DS2500 - Good pad, outstanding life but lacked feel and abit lacking when cold on daily use.
Endless MX72 - Excellent daily pad, will stand up to very light track work. I managed to over heated them on track so decided to switch back to the Ferrodo, before fitting the PFC 08's.
PFC 08 - Best pad I've tried so far and the pad I'm currently using, excellent daily charactistics (works when cold), and has much better feel compare the the Ferrodo and has the best bite. It will last easily last for a 1hour session, being an endurance pad it should last even longer than 1 hour but I've not been out for longer than an hour.
As for brake lines, I'm using the ones my kit came with which I got nearly 5 years ago and they're still ok. You should be able to use any lines for the GT86 and it's just a standard banjo fitting on the caliper, atleast I'm 99% sure it is. 
With regards to discs, I went for the genuine AP Racing ones as originally Reyland used remanufactured disc and the AP Racing discs had better internal cooling vains.
As for the face type I'd recommend you go for straight groved, I'm aware of a few people that have had some issues with the Reyland J hook discs, @3782mc being one.
Here's a list of all the available pad choices for the CP9200 caliper, that I can think of:
Carbon Lorraine:  
Part No: 5004W50T17
Compounds Available: RC5+, RC6, RC6E, RC8, RC8R
Approx Price: £210
Available from: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/cl-brakes/cl-brakes-browse-by-caliper/ap-racing/ap-racing-5200-caliper-cp3215-d50-pads-cl-brakes-race-brake-pads.html
EBC:
Part No: Various
Compounds Available: Bluestuff, Orangestuff, Yellowstuff, RP-1, RP-X
Approx Price: £90
Available from: https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/race-caliper-parts/ap-racing/cp9200/24000159
Endless:
Part No: RCP015
Compounds Available: MX72, MX72 Plus, ME20, ME22, CC-Rg, CC43, M-Sport
Approx Price: £200
Available from: https://www.nengun.com/endless/
Ferodo:
Part No: FRP216
Compounds Available: DS2500, DS3000, DS1.11, DSUNO
Approx Price: £150
Available from: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/ferodo/ap-racing-caliper/ap-racing-5200-caliper-cp3215-d50-pads-ferodo-race-brake-pads.html
Mintex: 
Part No: MDB1292
Compounds Available: M1144, M1155, M1166
Approx Price: £102
Available from: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/mintex/ap-racing-calipers-mintex/ap-racing-5200-caliper-cp3215-d50-pads-mintex-race-brake-pads.html
Pagid Racing:
Part No: 1361
Compounds Available: RSL1, RSL29, RST1, RST2, RST3 ,RST4, RST5, RS14, RSH42
Approx Price: £102
Available from: https://www.clutchstop.co.uk/products/pagid-e1361-rs29-brake-pads.html
PBS:
Part No: 8223PR
Compounds Available: ProRace
Approx Price: £130
Available from: https://www.tegiwaimports.com/brands/pbs/pbs-prorace-brake-pads-ap-racing-caliper-cp5200-cp3215-d50.html
Performance Friction (PFC):
Part No: 7767
Compounds Available: Z-Rated, 08, 11
Approx Price: £150
Available from: https://www.part-box.com/pfc-7767-z-rated-brake-pad-set-7767-10?search=pfc 7767&description=true
Project Mu:
Part No: F1076
Compounds Available: Type PS, HC-CS, HC+, R777, R999
Approx Price: £150
Available from: https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/?q=F1076
Winmax:
Part No: WMP814-17
Compounds Available: W3, W4, W5, W6.5, WN3
Approx Price: £235
Available from: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/winmax-brakes/ap-racing-calipers-winmax/ap-racing-5200-caliper-cp3215-d50-pads-winmax-brake-pads.html
Hope that helps.
p.s. Go for Red calipers, why buy a big brake kit if not to show it off?

I think I must be going mad, but it was reassuring to know I was not the only one when my 6am alarm went off this morning. Time for another Sunday drive. This time I had Richard from RRG Macc' out with me in their black GR Yaris demonstrator, Mark in my old GT86 along with his friend from work in a Golf GTI. As we headed out on the M56 from Manchester Airport, in the pouring rain and held a steady speed in all the standing water that was there, I pondered to myself, that this is absolute madness. As it transpired the GR Yaris took it in its stride, though Mark in the GT86 was having a few wake up calls trying to drive in a straight line. As we neared our rendezvous with Richard, I was seriously reconsidering why I had had such a bright idea to go out in these conditions. It was certainly hardcore. I reassured the convoy that things would improve as we headed down the A49 as it we emerged into daylight. I'd also pointed out that there would be no heroics and reminded all to take it easy.
 
As it turns out things did get better as we neared Whitchurch McDonald's for our breakfast stop, though it was all somewhat relative. Breakfast helped though and it when off in the direction of Market Drayton for the Eccleshall Loop. I had my car in track mode, stability on considering the conditions. My car felt so surefooted which was reassuring and I found I could launch it out of the corners, getting on the power earlier than I felt would have been reasonable. Mark at the back in my old GT86, was having a whole different kind of fun! To be fair, there was no way this was ever going to be more than a brisk drive in places and I still have to consider that I haven't yet driven my car in the dry. This car does give you confidence though. Traction is absolute and though I had the front wheels perhaps edging into clawing their way into the tarmac, it was nearly always surprising in the manner in which the car could be fired through the apex and just tear down the next straight. I would normally of course be looking for some really fast long radius bends, where I could properly load up the chassis, but in today's conditions this was neither the time or the place and caution as they say wins.
 
After losing Mark and his friend when they went the wrong way when we joined the M6 it was just the two GR Yaris for the drive back to Wilmslow. We took the back roads of course though inevitably there was the odd horse box and duffer along the way. Now we were two cars rather than four overtaking was a lot easier. There were a couple of times, when I went to overtake one car, only to think I may as well take the next as well. Getting to 6K rpm now I've got 500 miles on the clock, you can really make the car fly. The jet like sound from the exhaust as the revs climb to six thousand, does a bit addictive I admit.
 
Overall in these difficult times where going out for a drive is about all you can, do much fun was had. So much so that my friend from Toyota is now buying his own GR Yaris and it only took a day with the demonstrator for him to do that! This car does impress. I am now contemplating what it might be like come warm and dry roads. My alarm for the summer on a Sunday is going to be very early indeed! 
 

 

 

They are. Should be available from about now. These tyres are just bonkers. I was only saying to Richard earlier that I could scarcely believe how much grip they had in wet and cold (3C) conditions chucking it down a country road at 8am on Sunday morning. They must be mega in the dry in summer! 
 

That's awful, sorry to hear they have been so poor in resolving this.