Kirsty80

First proper wash in a while 😀
 
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First proper wash in a while 😀
 
Sent from my E6853 using Tapatalk
 
 

@TTR are you really complaining about that? When I was 19 I was paying £2k for a fiesta.

Firstly, a MASSIVE thank you for all who have taken the time to post in support of the folly of a mad man 
As Mr Nicebiscuit stated so well in his post, for me the pleasure and challenge of building something unique and different is probably 90% of the pleasure for me.  After completing my Engineering degree, I started my working career as a Product Development engineer for Toyota, so cars mean a lot more to me than just the bragging rights as to how fast I can drive around a given bend, or hang the tail out on a public road!
It has been intimated that I am spending a lot of money on 'just' a Yaris - the reality is, I paid the princely price of £600 for the car, and all the T sport bits I have got to convert it have come via very judicious eBay and breaker yard shopping, and then refurbished.  I am MAKING as many of the special bits myself as possible (for example, the bias pedal box cost about £70, which includes the two master cylinders).  I could have bought a DC Electronics Power steering system for £2692 ( http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/electronic-power-steering/dc-electronics-motorsport-electronic-power-assisted-steering) plus their steering ECU for a further £1713 (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/electronic-power-steering/dc-electronics-ultra-race-ecu-for-motorsport-epas-system), but instead i have made my own (using exactly the same mechanical and electrical components which just happen to have been fitted to a certain small hatch back which cost me £30 from a breaker yard), and am making my own ecu interface which will take the speed signal from the ABS hub on the rear wheel to make the power assistance speed sensitive.  The result will be exactly the same functionality as the DC Electronics one, but at a cost of less than £50 all in.
The same applies to the fully adjustable front suspension, and the inlet and exhaust manifolds etc., all of which I have / will be making myself.
So, by the time the car is finished, it will have cost me a LOT less that what I could possibly hope to buy even the tattiest used GT86 to use as a basis of building a dedicated track car.  None of the 'high cost' items I have / will be buying - turbo, ecu, front brake calipers, electronic dash etc. are in any way unique to the Yaris, so if I do ever get bored of the car and decide to strip it down and sell off the parts, I will loose a lot less than the depreciation on any car on the road.  

Now sold thanks.

Just found a wild vaporeon 

I have heard a rumour that trading is being released next week..
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www.tuned.org.uk

I'm playing too. Amazed by how much stuff I've found in my local area I'd never noticed before and how many complete strangers it's led to conversations with. 

Ok. I admit it. I am a grown man and I'm hooked on Pokemon Go.
I wondered if I was the only one and so should seek medical advice, or if there are others on here. I defend my actions by being a fan of all things Japanese
_____________________________________
www.tuned.org.uk

First time I've felt well enough to clean my car for about 4 months. Grabbed a few slightly 'arty' shots:-
Metal flakes in the paint reflecting the sky:-

 
Front:-

 
Rear showing the carbon weave on the spoiler:-

Got to be 911

Grabbed a quick picture today of how it's currently sitting on the Motons after I had it raised approximately 10mm when I was last there:-

I'm going to have to disagree with Lauren and say don't worry about the weight of the wheels, I'm assuming you won't be chasing 10ths off lap times etc so I wouldn't worry about the weight of the wheel, it should be a bonus if they are lighter, not a major consideration.  I tried to find nice light weight wheels specifically for track use and I wasted a lot of time, it severely reduced my choice of wheels.  They were either relatively light but not very interesting look wise or they look really nice and were light weight but were mega expensive.
As for fitment, what people have suggested is fine, to hopefully clear up some of the confusion, the offset is from the centre of the wheel to the mating face of the wheel hub, so if your wheel is 8 inches wide, the centre line is 4 inches in (i.e. down the middle of the wheel) which means when the stock wheels are +48mm further out from the centre of the wheel, the wheel sits further into the arches, if you get a wheel with a +30mm offset, this means that the distance between the centre line of the wheel and the wheel hub has reduced which would mean then the wheel should sit further out:

 
Hope this helps.  As mentioned, the http://frsproject.com/ website is great to check this out and play with the wheel info to visually see roughly how the wheel would sit.

Yes, absolutely fine, no problem at all. 

Different Sizes and offset, but they look vey similar.

17x8 with an offset of 38 is what I have. Works perfectly. Be careful with your wheel selection, check the weight of the wheels. Stock are heavy at 9.2kg. Try hard to get lighter wheels than that as the benefits are well worthwhile. 

I forget to add the picture of the new rear remote reservoir positioning earlier:-

Should keep them better out of the way of dirt and debris.

this site is the best for us to decide if a wheel will fit, just stick in the wheel specs and see how it sits
http://frsproject.com/

I found this quite usefull
 http://www.willtheyfit.com/#isPage=1
 
 

If it was about change, I wouldn't like any of it  Fine with the lights / wing / interior (except the steering wheel controls) but the bumper/grill just looks wrong

Looking at it here perhaps I still have too much
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Once you've felt the power of his package, it's hard to go back... (God, I'm so childish... )
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What was wrong with the current one? That just looks fugly.

I've never taken mine through a wash or allowed anyone else to wash it from new and have always washed it carefully but still see plenty of swirls in the sunshine - it's the nature of modern soft points/lacquer unfortunately. What you could try though is a filler glaze before you wax as that should get rid of most of them. I like Autoglym Super Resin Polish, but for a black car I don't think you can do better than Poorboys Black Hole, it's an easy wipe on wipe off and then layer your wax on top (which will help it last longer - but any filler glaze is always a temporary (2 or 3 months) solution.
Also if you don't already give it a clay once or twice a year before glaze/wax as a good prep - the G3 clay mitt (Halfords) is really easy, use your normal car shampoo to keep it wet and gently glide it across the panels and it picks up all the crud/old wax leaving a perfectly clean and smooth surface in a matter of minutes.