nerdstrike

Scooby parps all round! It sounds fruity alright.

Do you have a service manuals? They have full specs and wiring diagrams for everything, so you should be able to trace the O2 sensor wiring schematic.
Available here if not: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8374

I've had a devil of a job finding CR1632 batteries. Had to resort to ebay.
No idea if these take the same battery. Best bet is to pry open the shell and look. It'll probably have a notch in the side you can twist something like a 1p/2p coin in to pop it open. Shouldn't be a problem as long as you're gentle with it.

I've added some weight in the front actually, because I'm running a half-quart more oil and an oil cooler.  Probably going to end up adding some more as well.  I'm planning to compensate for weight balance (as well as get some more space for future brake ducting) by replacing the windshield washer reservoir with a smaller one, getting a lighter weight battery, and doing a few other things.  The stock reservoir when filled to the top fill line is 15 pounds!!!  I'm looking at the PTuning windshield washer reservoir relocation kit, which should cut around 10 pounds of fluid weight as well as losing another 20 pounds by switching to a Braille lightweight battery and battery tray.  As you'll note they're in my list of planned changes this year still.  I'm hoping adding hood louvers will help with cooling and also provide a slight amount of front-end downforce as well to help compensate.
More major changes for the front are a bit more difficult, since this is where a lot of the structure required for crash protection on the street is.  If I were to go full racecar though I'd be redoing the entire front structure which would be able to cut quite a bit of weight, but I'd also need to fully cage out the car including building a sub-cage for the engine bay if I did that.  We're not quite there yet.  I could move the lightweight battery to the trunk though which would also help with balance.
While not as far into the front, I am planning on removing the stock seats and seat airbags, jumpering them out, and installing a harness bar and two lightweight (carbon kevlar) race buckets with harnesses.  I may get a custom half-cage fabbed for me locally instead of the harness bar.  I'm still evaluating my options because I want to keep the car street legal and safe for highway use, which in Texas means that I cannot wear a helmet while driving on public roads while in an enclosed space.  If I can't wear a helmet, that means I'm not doing a full cage.  If I'm not doing a full cage that means I need to keep the front and side impact airbags.  If I have to keep the airbags that cuts a lot of options for weight reduction in the front.  Since I don't like the idea of my head looking like a watermelon during a Gallagher show because an illegal immigrant love-taps me on the freeway, caging the car out and not wearing a helmet to drive on the street is a complete non-option.  Unfortunately that's a South Texas reality.  So, the only way I cage it out is if I go track-only and buy another car for use on the street.

When we got there around 11am, things had thinned out in that lovely row of 86s.  There was a row of 4 and a row of 6.  I imagine they split up so as not to be parked under the conker trees in the strong winds!


And around the event, I spotted another 9 GT/BRZs dotted about.  If only they could all have been parked together!
So near, yet so far!

And here are the 3 Le Mans Tribute liveried cars in the arena, and leaving the arena for a photoshoot in the New Forest.

 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Was talking to someone yesterday about the rear lens condensation issue and I mention I'd seen a TSB somewhere.
 
It was on the US FT86 forum here 
 
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21868
 
It has links to pdf versions of the TSBs, which include how to check if you have the issue and how to fix it.
 
So if you think you have one of these issues worth downloading and printing it out before going down to your dealer
 
Alec

I gather £2k a year is about par for the course no matter how lame your car at that age. Enjoy it @OllyW, I had to drive a 30 bhp Fiat Cinquecento when I was your age. It was impossible to break the speed limit on the motorway unless you were going downhill!
My big piece of advice would be to not turn off the traction control/VSC until you've driven through winter. It takes a good long while to recognise the conditions which can catch you out, and taking away your safety margin is unwise. If you do want to play beyond the limit of grip, save up for a skid pan or handling course. It's great fun and you learn things that might help you in general driving.

In fairness, running said Focal speakers off the 2013- Toyota headunit, I've never run out of volume knob, except when I wanted to go all Wayne's World on the bluetooth source. The lineout on the bluetooth module is quiet compared with the CD/radio part. Interior plastics start to thrum over a certain volume anyway...
I have no doubt a separate amp could drive a bit more authority into the speakers and distort less at higher volumes, but the OEM part isn't doing badly for day-to-day.
Not suitable for this kinda thing

The single traffic policeman in Devon must be busy chasing caravans. I've heard of quite a few people getting ordered to replace their plate in the greater London area and other busier parts of the country.
I like your choice of wheel!

I've put in a Huawei "wingle" (yes, I know) so have WiFi in the car. Means if someone steals the car can track where it is using 'find my device'. Sweet!

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I'd expect your insurance premium to go up £50-100 regardless of blame, but you shouldn't be liable for excess or anything of the sort.
It looks like it hasn't snapped any of the mounts off as the bumper is still sitting flush. That's good from the perspective of the repairer.  Official channels will source a new bumper, spray it to match your car, install the original parking sensors (possibly) and fit to the car. A bumper loses a lot of its safety properties after it has been stressed, so they will err toward replacement whether it needs it or not. I'd guess £700 or something, which may inflate rapidly depending on what the repair shop thinks they can get away with.
The thing to check will be that the reversing sensors are behaving properly after the repair before you get too far from the garage.

Then I suggest you need a more powerful alternator

Sorry, only just picked it up this evening
SU003-05827 (Plate Bmpr Upr)
That is just the metal strip, no clips, rubber etc.

I’m 99.9% sure that stock pads squeal coz they stick in the calipers!

What I found when cleaning up the calipers is that the rear pads fit very tightly into the shims. It’s takes very little dirt or corrosion on the pad or carrier to make them stick in place and cause the loud squealing.

I cleaned the rust and the hardened copper grease out of both front and rear carriers and shims, and used Cera-Tec brake grease back in December which stopped the squealing. Almost 6 months later and the fronts still don’t make a sound!





BUT the rear pads were nearly as loud as before after about 3 months and the squeal was so bad it sounded like it was the fronts as well - but defo only the rears.

A few weeks ago I couldn’t take any more of the squealing so I cleaned the rears again. They were nowhere near as bad as before tho, but I noticed this time that there was corrosion under the coating on the edges of the square tabs at the ends of the pads. This meant I had to use some force to remove the pads from the caliper.

I filed the edges of the tabs down on the pads to clean metal, greased up with Cera-Tec, and the pads were able to slot in and out of the shims on the calipers easily and there was smooth movement. Stopped all squeal. And I didn’t touch the pad or disc surfaces.

Didn’t take any pics but I’ve highlighted the bits I filed



The car is my daily driver and the brakes only get a lil workout every couple of weeks.

I think aftermarket pads must have a thinner or better coating on the tabs if they stop the squeal.

Sound pressure is exquisitely sensitive to measurement technique and distance. It's probably within error bars.
It's not like the guy doing the measuring has a scaffold that helps him get exactly the same relative position on each car, or that each person correctly dials up the right revs on the same amount of throttle.

To relearn fuel trims:
Make several slow (as slow as you can without feeling unstable) climbs to 5500rpm. I usually do this in 3rd or 4th. Once your LTFT has stabilized, and if your IAM is still at 1, it should be done.
Dead pedal fix:
When car is off, turn ignition to accessory, slowly press accelerator to floor 5-6 times.
Though i've seen also posts just to wait 30sec in accessory mode. And maybe repeat once more, (turn off, accessory, 30sec wait), and finished with starting engine and let 1min idle.

No doubt the banging choonz will repel any incoming debris...

No doubt the banging choonz will repel any incoming debris...

Depending on my day I quite enjoy these calls.  The last one I had I told them I work for euro ncap and one week while at work I had 14 crashes which were out of my control.  The girl on the other end of the phone got so excited by the scenario she transfered me to her superior for a compensation estimate.  Even when I explained that the car I was traveling in was dragged by a wire at exactly 65mph into a concrete block they didn't cotton on to the fact I was describing a crash test dummy.

The pedal is a hydraulic link directly to the gearbox casing, so it's going to transfer any vibrations from engine back to your foot. It's also common to have intermittent vibration from the gear linkage at high RPMs - it's probably the same resonance manifesting in different ways.

At least I don't need to degrease the inside of the windscreen now...

After the beneficent recommendations of those here, I ordered the IS165TOY kit (£130) made by Focal, along with a bumper pack of Silent Coat "noise isolator" foam from Audiovisual world. Shipping was prompt but package went AWOL, Audiovisualworld very quick to ship another after I informed them that I hadn't received anything. Annoying but all was well.
I took some photos, but in the end there were other photos of the same stuff on this very forum, so I've neglected to upload them.
On me:
I am a poor man's audio nut, liking classical, jazz and some occasional punk or rock. I've got some B&W speakers in my lounge and an amp to match, and my ideal instrument is 500kg of piano. I love it when the music grabs and involves. Not fond of massive volume but love quality. With that in mind, the GT86 is a dreadful place to spend lots of money on audio when I could be investing in my home setup instead! It's quite noisy, the speaker positions are a bit whack, and I like listening to the car as I drive. Therefore, I opted for the cheap-ass upgrade, as the default audio is truly painful to my ears.
Opinion on Toyota OEM system:
Barely tolerable, crashy treble, needs silly volume on the motorway to be enjoyable, and then it's exhausting. Headunit does ok, even over bluetooth, but doesn't do very well when you connect a different phone. That's what I thought before I took the door cards out and beheld the papier maché equipment they fitted! The tweeters look cheap, the rear speakers are like listening with your head under water, and the woofers... oh the woofers. They weigh next to nothing. I'm amazed they achieved as much as they did. Toyota obviously spent at least £3 on each of these.
On the Focal replacements:
The replacement tweeters are sturdy and much nicer than those they replace. Their better build unfortunately means they don't click fully into the speaker mounts, due to being a bit tall. I'm leaving them like that for now, but might want to look into more sturdy attachment.
The woofers are fibreglass affairs with more than twice the weight of the OEM. Much bigger magnet on the rear, a bit more depth to the assembly, but plenty of room in the door cavity. There is a foam layer where the mount fits around the cone which is very thin. I added a bit of extra material to make sure it seals properly. I'd have like something in kevlar or similar, but that would need more wiring, sourcing mounts etc. Lots more dosh!
A bunch of fittings are included in the box, but they're mainly intended for other Toyotas. The only bits you need are the wires (which only fit in one configuration) and the block which mates with the Toyota wiring.
On the fitting process:
Online videos quite informative in getting the lay of the land. I tackled the tweeters first. Nylon trim tools very helpful indeed! The dash material is weirdly spongy and very easy to scratch. Out comes the speaker cover with speaker stuck into it, now lots of swearing trying to release the tweeter cable. Likewise getting the tweeter from the grate is a forceful and made me nervous. New tweeter snaps into place, but not as securely as the original. Must be able to do this better!
At this point I had to stop and drive away to dinner. Just the tweeters alone made a big improvement to clarity of the audio!
Next to the doors. More action for the nylon tools. The door handle trims came away without feeling like they'd snap, but it would dead easy to scratch them. Door card needs to be pulled free from its mountings with moderate force. I found it easiest to start at the hinge side of the door and work outward. Then the whole card slides up and off its lip. Now comes the fun - unclipping the puddle light cable (easy), the window switch cable (easy once I used a large flat bladed screwdriver to release the plug), and the door handle/lock cables. I had to do this alone, but it would be a lot easier if someone could support the weight of the door card while you unplug everything.
If you take the door too far from the card without disconnecting the cables, they'll pull off the plastic liner which separates outside from inside. Driver's side is harder because of the mirror controls - that plug is connected in the most awkward position possible. Tricky on your own!
Speaker removal an absolute doddle, likewise fitting. I took some time to feed some noise-absorbing foam into the cavity behind the speaker, but didn't do the whole door because I didn't want to disturb the waterproofing - it had some moisture on it, so it has a purpose! Re-hanging the door card was nice and easy.
On the matter of sound deadening, dynamat etc.
While the tarry mass loading material provided by Dynamat or silent coat is useful for adding weight to a panel and damping resonance, I felt it would add both a lot of cost and weight to the installation. Some people suggest roofing material, but that will stink out your car with tarry odours. Don't go there! Yes, the boot floor and door skin boom like a drum when tapped, but as above, I didn't want to mess with the waterproofing and wasn't sure I would realise the benefits. Maybe I'm wrong!
The isolating closed cell foam is for taking out higher frequency noise, and I figured it was ideal for dropping the ambient volume of the car on the move so I could enjoy the music more. I placed some in the door cavity, while mainly focusing on the rear wheel arches.
On adding sound absorbing material to the rear passenger space:
Unbolt seat. Just one 10mm bolt per seat! Makes those rear passengers feel all the more wanted as they lose sensation below their knees. Push down at the rear centre of the seat pad, where a single loop is hooked onto the chassis. This is tricky and took me a while. It doesn't help that you can't see what you're doing, and the seat is flexible. Now you can see the entry points to your fuel tank! Peel back door rubbers from top of door frame to the bottom, where you will have to lift the lip trim. It interlocks with the rest of the trim, but it comes up easily enough Unclip two trim clips that are behind the rear seat. You can do this by dropping the seat, or through the boot. Starting at the door, give it a heave-ho and pop the trim out. Force applied just right will pop one out, rather than trying to get them all at once. I found it easiest to pop the forward bits out, then half-drop the rear seat to release the rear portion and then slide it into the boot. You can also take the boot lining out to get to the rear part of the arch, behold the top of the teeny tiny rear suspension, and attend to some of the rattly wiring. You may now disable, or just plain remove the rear speakers and use them to occupy space in the refuse. and so the results:
Decent step up in clarity, especially the treble, almost to the point where it rather exposes the lack of mids, and the fact that you are much nearer one tweeter than the other. Once the system had run in a bit, these issues were less obvious, but I definitely get the feeling a second speaker on top of the dash would help with integrating the sound. There's plenty of low end, but obviously not on a par with a dedicated sub. Sound is still lost a bit at high speeds, but you don't feel so aurally violated by winding up the volume.
+ Very happy with return on investment, listening pleasure is up, it lifts it from "car sound" to "hifi".
+ Easy fitting, provided you have a good way to avoid scratching stuff, and a helper at times
+ Focal have some credentials in audio gear manufacture
- Still far from premium speakers
- GT86 cabin is a poor environment to install in, and would take proper wonga and time to sort out.
+ Subaru/Toyota snap-together design is pretty easy going for strip-down and refit of interior. It's nowhere near as involved as some other cars I've crawled around inside.
As for the sound isolation, it's still plenty noisy at speed but I think some road noise is gone, helping to expose more of the creaks and ticks of the other flimsy interior parts! I didn't do a superb job, and certainly didn't cover every inch with the stuff, but it has made a difference. I was foolish not to try a controlled measuring of the ambient volume on a known piece of road! Putting the sticky stuff in place is a time-consuming job, so I'd not recommend it unless you know that you need it, or are going for installation to the max! I'll refine my opinion over the next few weeks as I persuade myself it was worthwhile.
Who is it for?
Budget-minded people who can't stand the OEM audio setup. Maximum bang for buck, really very easy installation, no messing about. £130, job done. Limited extra weight needed.
Who is it not for?
People who must have banging choonz - fit a sub in the boot. People willing to get into the wiring, mounting cross-overs and supplementary amps. I reckon £300-£500 and some graft will yield another step up in quality. Think hard about adding a mid-range to the dash to compensate for speaker separation. This is what I would have done if I had more time and money to burn. People who want high volume - The standard mountings are flimsy, and many body panels are completely undamped. You should be spending time and weight on the full damping and isolation in all key panels. This will add tens of kilos. Full-time petrolheads. Rip it all out, swap out manifold and muffler for maximum brap brap bang rumble. You won't want that damped out with noise isolation!

Haha! I know.
It will however fit a cello. Just.


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Check out this thread for more info mate 

Car holiday aside, you've got some cojones climbing some of those routes on bicycles! Proper respect for that. Any clown can pay his fee and crash on the ring, but it takes a lot of commitment to pedal up those neverending slopes.
I have visions of the rear window glass lifting off and sailing away with your bicycles, but it can probably handle the drag.