nerdstrike

I'm getting 36.3 mpg pump to pump in a standard 2014 car. It went up a bit after 1800 miles up to Scotland, around and back, which was more like 43 mpg. This car is very efficient from 30-50 mph, claiming over 50 mpg most of the time, but that comes back down to mid 40s at a steady 70 mph. Range is about 300 miles to just under 400 miles for pure motorway.
I'm spending £100 less per thousand miles on fuel than I did with my previous 22mpg car, and I'm quicker in the bends. No complaints here!

Some extra pressure helps stabilise the tyres under hard (and bumpy) cornering. It also has the side effect of making the handling sketchier. The surface is fairly slippery anyway, and I was surprised by how little stopping power I had.
A couple of the RX8s that didn't add pressure (or had aftermarket suspension doing funny things?) wore all the tread off the shoulder of the right front tyre. They were going at it hard, but it was a shame to have toasted tyres with good tread in the middle. A few extra psi like Angelina said might not go amiss, depends on wheel camber and what kind of lead boots you wear.

Some extra pressure helps stabilise the tyres under hard (and bumpy) cornering. It also has the side effect of making the handling sketchier. The surface is fairly slippery anyway, and I was surprised by how little stopping power I had.
A couple of the RX8s that didn't add pressure (or had aftermarket suspension doing funny things?) wore all the tread off the shoulder of the right front tyre. They were going at it hard, but it was a shame to have toasted tyres with good tread in the middle. A few extra psi like Angelina said might not go amiss, depends on wheel camber and what kind of lead boots you wear.

Did it say "Aus dem Weg du scheisse Japanisches Auto!"?

Then install aftermarket gearbox/tranny/diff bushings, so that other parts will whine in place of quiet supercharger

I think I saw somewhere that a one let go at less than ~280 bhp, and I forget whether it was a turbo or not, but at least there's a sticker for that:
https://mightycarmods.com/collections/stickers/products/rodney-the-piston-sticker
Boost shortens the life of the engine unless it's designed for it or otherwise overengineered, so you shouldn't expect miracles, but supercharging at low boost is probably the least risky version of FI.

If it was an RX8, I would already be thinking about a rebuild, an engine mount would be sagging, there would be bubbling sills, the coolant sensor warning would be permanently on, I'd be changing plugs and coils for the second time and I would be spending 50% more on fuel. It's a much better mannered car so far and the Toyota spares are a bit cheaper.
I don't believe it's that unusual for car club enthusiasts to see a few engine failures, as they ask the most from their cars and make "improvements". My cause for concern is that there are fewer '86s on the roads than there were RX8s. That might play positively or negatively in future.

Yet more nightmares for the V8 build.
Tom at Fensport got the mapping absolutely spot on for me to cruise it to Japfest this weekend, only to have this happen under no load whatsoever.
Gutted is an understatement, and I really feel for Tom who's done nothing but his best to get this on the road. Resulting in it trying to kill him twice!
Options going forward? New engine with more expense and effort? Or just give in to the fact that it clearly isn't meant to be and split the parts that are on the car?

Long answer: No.  Short answer: No

If it was an RX8, I would already be thinking about a rebuild, an engine mount would be sagging, there would be bubbling sills, the coolant sensor warning would be permanently on, I'd be changing plugs and coils for the second time and I would be spending 50% more on fuel. It's a much better mannered car so far and the Toyota spares are a bit cheaper.
I don't believe it's that unusual for car club enthusiasts to see a few engine failures, as they ask the most from their cars and make "improvements". My cause for concern is that there are fewer '86s on the roads than there were RX8s. That might play positively or negatively in future.

The 86 God's giveth and they taketh away... 
So the issue of the power steering was solved by simply finding the missing ECU and reconnecting everything. As to why it was removed in the 1st place? F**k knows... 
The car was taken from Carson Performance earlier in the week for it to be sent off for tuning. Unfortunately we've run into yet another issue where Nev didn't think to put any oil into the diff once he'd changed it to the Kaaz 1.5way that I supplied. So the on-road tuning came to an abrupt end with the diff locking up at 60mph. Luckily no damage or injuries to the people involved but it looks like the best part of a grand has gone up in smoke. 
We've also uncovered a few more niggling issues which need to be sorted for reliability down the line. Nothing major, but the list looks to be a multitude of 30min jobs here and there. 
So although she's taxed, MOT'd and insured, she's not ready for the open road just yet. 

Perhaps in the inevitable post-survey conclusions he can reflect on the difficulty of asking well-phrased but clear questions and sample answers. Some of the options were not very natural answers.

well thats the annoying squeaks and buzzing gone.
Buzzing was the light itself - mainly the underside element beneath the lens. There's 2 legs that should clip into notches inside and these were not hooked in - also added some silentcoat strips to reduce any other buzz.
Brakes now seem to be a lot better - been at TD for a service, current pads were down to about 3000 miles left so swapped them to new pads, also they thought one of the rear shields was just catching the disk to that had a little percussive adjustment. drive back was sqeal/squeak and chirp free!
 
 

My tip for first trackday is to leave the VSC on (probably in sport mode). If you have the skill to fool around with oversteer then fine, but most of us are not as good as we think we are. It won't limit you unless you're really good or drive with fists of ham, and it might just save you from spinning out at a bad time. Some people think stability control is emasculating, but I prefer to have backup until I know my way around the car and the track. Lauren can drift everywhere, but I suspect she can outrun me with only three wheels.
Top priority is to learn the lines - an experienced driver in the passenger seat helps loads with that. I benefitted hugely from guidance on my first day.

UPDATE: Toyota Auris - taken the car to a bodyshop for estimation of price and this should be booked in for repairs by the end of the week which will be claimed for the third party who hit me.
Toyota GT86 - the van man who hit me; his representatives called me saying he has accepted liability. I asked for some clarity and the representative informed me that based on his account of events, he is liable for the accident and he has been informed of this.
In both instances, the end result will be a no fault claim on the Auris and GT86.
Sort of just waiting around now for the garage to come back to me with a quote for the work before I send this off to my insurer for approval. Looks unlikely I'll have the work started until the next of next month as he is going on holiday when schools go on Easter break. My alternative is to go with another garage but it has been recommended that this guy is trustworthy so I'd rather wait a little longer than go to a random body shop and get a bad job. Decisions. 
 

I have a sneaking suspicion that I've lost airflow to the footwells now.
Sometimes I miss the big mechanical controls that used to do this job.

Don't forget where they wash your car whether you want them to or not, and you find innumerable paint swirls the next time it's sunny

Don't forget where they wash your car whether you want them to or not, and you find innumerable paint swirls the next time it's sunny

A bit of heatsoak can really mess with engine starting, as the perceived air temperature is out of whack. I'm thinking about minutes rather than hours between starts though.
An underperforming spark plug/ignition coil can lead to a weak start too. If it continues I'd think about inspecting them for signs of fouling, corrosion or arcing as well as checking battery condition under load. Shame the plugs are tricky to whip out.

Eyes wide open, you won't regret your choice. A bigger calliper, pad and disc will need a less severe pad to function well. There's nothing like having meaty callipers to make a car look like it means business.
I'm pleased to hear at least some of the relevant BBKs are fit and forget.

Where do you suppose the energy comes from that makes the post-turbo air charge hot? It's proportionate to the temperature of the air coming into the turbo. Aside from a bit of soak from the impeller itself, it's mainly the compression that increases the temperature - see ideal gas law. The higher the starting temperature the more energy in the resulting compressed air,  and the more effort it takes to compress. The intercooler can take 10 degrees or more out of the intake charge, but I don't believe the cooling efficiency increases with temperature as much as the heat of compression does.
That's before you take into account the practical effects of a car that heatsoaks at idle and has to drain the engine bay of hot air, instead of just the intake volume. I've lost count of how many times I've seen people complaining about wobbly idles and erratic fuelling from replacing their intakes and filter boxes. Good air supply matters! At least to a point. NA ram-scoops have a tiny effect, and most cold air induction kits trade weather resilience for marginal improvements over OEM offerings.

Welcome to the haven for RX8 owners in mourning. You will find 50-80% improvement in fuel economy, 50% greater tyre endurance, an easily accessible oil filter, reliable starting and the droplinks will still be attached. Also the sparkplugs are where you expect them, behind the wheel arches.
Enjoy your car!

I'm not surprised sliding calliper designs are prone to this sort of thing, but I am surprised it's happening already to '86s. I'm glad there are shims front and rear to work with - shimless rear callipers are a right pain.

Dear lord.

Where do you suppose the energy comes from that makes the post-turbo air charge hot? It's proportionate to the temperature of the air coming into the turbo. Aside from a bit of soak from the impeller itself, it's mainly the compression that increases the temperature - see ideal gas law. The higher the starting temperature the more energy in the resulting compressed air,  and the more effort it takes to compress. The intercooler can take 10 degrees or more out of the intake charge, but I don't believe the cooling efficiency increases with temperature as much as the heat of compression does.
That's before you take into account the practical effects of a car that heatsoaks at idle and has to drain the engine bay of hot air, instead of just the intake volume. I've lost count of how many times I've seen people complaining about wobbly idles and erratic fuelling from replacing their intakes and filter boxes. Good air supply matters! At least to a point. NA ram-scoops have a tiny effect, and most cold air induction kits trade weather resilience for marginal improvements over OEM offerings.