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Ade

Ade's Road and Track Toy

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No worries, Ade. :)

Your car does seem very well sorted in all aspects and good driving too. Still think you need to turn the aids off though, may have helped in places. 

Just to clarify, Port Froid is not flat out in an NA car, you just cannot take the last left flat, I know I've tried. ;)

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I was trying to focus on technique and consistency so never quite got to the point I felt comfortable all off. If I hadn't lost the morning session I probably would have had a go.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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When I was at Nurburgring, an Australian who has a BRZ was talking to me about tyres he said Yokohama ad08R are some of the best out there. He mentioned in they were being in local race series and they were cutting serious lap times using them. May have to be on the list! 

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1 hour ago, Leosille said:

When I was at Nurburgring, an Australian who has a BRZ was talking to me about tyres he said Yokohama ad08R are some of the best out there. He mentioned in they were being in local race series and they were cutting serious lap times using them. May have to be on the list! 

If you want to use them a lot on the road  and track I'd suggest looking at the Michelin Cup 2's as they have newer tyre tech than the ado8rs which are getting on a bit. If it's just for track use and only a tiny bit of road (and not in the wet) the Nankang AR1's are not far off slicks and generate ludicrous grip. 

 

(Sorry to deviate from your build @Ade!)

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40 minutes ago, Deacon said:

If you want to use them a lot on the road  and track I'd suggest looking at the Michelin Cup 2's as they have newer tyre tech than the ado8rs which are getting on a bit. If it's just for track use and only a tiny bit of road (and not in the wet) the Nankang AR1's are not far off slicks and generate ludicrous grip. 

 

(Sorry to deviate from your build @Ade!)

Just had a look them Nankang AR1 look serious lol, what size tyres would you run on 17x9 ?

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The ad08r haven't been around that long @Deacon. Couple years. Before that it was ad08 which was a harder compound and before that it was the ad07.

Cups are the semi slick. Okay in the wet but and ad08r will have the faster lap times and far less likely to aquaplane. In the dry they are a bit slower though. Ad08r also have a higher thread wear so will last longer.

Not knock the cup2s thought which may be my next tyre just they are not aimed at the same performance segment. Ad08r are an extreme sumer tyre. Cup2s are a semi slick.

I'd put the ad08r half way between the cups and pilot super sport.

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21 minutes ago, Leosille said:

Just had a look them Nankang AR1 look serious lol, what size tyres would you run on 17x9 ?

For the AR1's it'd have to be 255/40/17 looking at the available sizes. 

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21 minutes ago, Leosille said: Just had a look them Nankang AR1 look serious lol, what size tyres would you run on 17x9 ?

For the AR1's it'd have to be 255/40/17 looking at the available sizes. 

That's massive for a near slick. You might struggle to get any heat in them. Could be wrong though. The TMG car runs 245 pirelli slicks but a soft compound.

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1 hour ago, Ade said:

That's massive for a near slick. You might struggle to get any heat in them. Could be wrong though. The TMG car runs 245 pirelli slicks but a soft compound.

They're so soft they don't take much heating

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Headlight Adjustment for lowered cars

I didn't like the idea of paying silly money for a couple of ball joints and a linage rod so I decided to make my own from a few ebay parts.

The ratio is 1:3 (thanks Nigel R32) so if you lower 30mm to need to shorten it by about a third ~10mm.

Hers's the stock vs my ebay special

20160821_164645_zpswomvxul1.jpg

and fitted

20160821_165844_zps1pczel7s.jpg

Ebay parts list:
 
 
 
 
 
I've only used one nylock nut because I didnt have any left hand threaded M6 nuts, but ideally you'd have one at each end.
 
Total cost ~ £18

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Passed MOT with my 10mm short adjuster Thumbs Up

 
Sadly the tester highlighted that I had a bit of play in my passenger side front bearing. It didn't fail the MOT because it was very slight but I will change it none the less. 
 
I suspect hitting a pot hole at Blyton, under breaking at around 60MPH is what caused it to wear prematurely, as not long after it started hearing a whirring at about 30mph, but I could hear on smooth tarmac and put it down to the tyres and surface.
 
Finding an aftermarket bearing is a pain as there are a number of wheel bearings from other Subarus that will fit but they dont have the ABS sensor ring. I had two difference vendors try to sell me an incorrect part!  I could only find one correct part and it was STARK branded and costs more than getting one through a dealer. I pick it up tomorrow.... 

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14 hours ago, Lauren said:

Why would you fit anything other than an OEM bearing? 

Well OEM bearing manufacturers change all the time. I was looking for a part made by an OEM manufacturer (e.g. SNR, SFK, SPARK, ect) but not specifically the same brand as the one fitted.  My dealer couldn't tell me the part manufacturer - because it changes.  Parts from a dealer are often expensive (due to markups) and I was quoted £130, so getting one of these parts online can save some £ - SNRs are typically £80-90 for subarus

I imagine our cars came with Japanese branded bearings but it changes all the time. Hopefully will find out when I fit my new hub/bearing assembly.

In the end of ordered one through the dealer as there is a lot of misinformation going around. Lots of parts fit but they don't have the ABS sensor ring. 

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I got the wheel bearing changed. Had to get the sledgehammer out to get it to crack lose but it came out in the end.

Old vs New

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a221/BD1985/Mobile Uploads/20160930_201705_zpsolenr7e2.jpg

Had a nice chat to the parts manager at another dealer near me. He said mine is the only modified GT86 they have seen and its likely the service guys will get funny about all the modifications when I ask for a new battery. No surprise there!...

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On Saturday I did the "cornering Masterclass" with CAT driver training at Milbrooke. It was an fantastic day and I enjoy both the driving and chatting with @Keethos @spikyone @CATDT (Jo and Paul).

Some Details of the day. 

We started on the mile straight were Paul and I worked on my left foot braking technique. What I didn't know was the affect of using the left foot and the throttle at the same time, as the brakes primarily affect the front but the throttle the back end, they can be used together to induce some extra turn in.

Next we went the high speed ring. We focused on double lane changes, first switching lanes smoothly while holding the throttle, then in sport mode, then all aids switched off. This is the point I realised that the aids are really holding me back at the track I would say seconds per lap. I found that even in sport mode it was using the rear brakes and scubbing speed during high speed transitions even though the back end was only slipping a little. This was particularly evident at blyton at the ump and wiggle where the quick left then right would cause the VSC to kick in if I went too fast. Next paul asked me to power out of the corner, but warned of oversteer with all aids of. 3rd gear 4k revs, turn in, ease and squeese out, lovely! little wiggle at the back and some great feedback through the wheel. I was buzzing so asked Paul if I could try it in 2nd where the car will be close to peak torque. Whoops too much throttle and before I knew it I was going sideways down the ring. :lol:

Then we went to the steering pad. Great fun trying to drift and control oversteer. Its a lot hard than it looks! I did get the most drifty crown at the end of the day :)

After lunch we were at the handling circuit. We got some laps in practicing consistency with input from Paul then came the 3 times laps where they were looking for consistency. The aim was within 2 seconds of one another. I managed 0.25 seconds between the first two and then 0.8s between the next one as I made a slight mistake. It was enough to win the bottle of champers though so I was quite happy about that! 

Finally we were on the alpine circuit were it could all get strung together. I really liked this as it was more about road craft and how to read the road not knowing the circuit very well, its a bit like driving a nice back road you dont know that well. 

Fantastic day and looking forward to perhaps some one on one next year to get to grips with over grip limit as I feel that's my weak point which prevents me from wanting to turn all the aids off.

20161022_185203_zpsgi4x1clo.jpg

 

 

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Good write up. Turning everything off is what you need to do though in order to learn how to control the car in a slide and work on recovery when you over-cook it. The car has a chassis that doesn't really bite, so it's a lot easier than some in that respect. 

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On 28 October 2016 at 5:16 PM, Lauren said:

Good write up. Turning everything off is what you need to do though in order to learn how to control the car in a slide and work on recovery when you over-cook it. The car has a chassis that doesn't really bite, so it's a lot easier than some in that respect. 

How restrictive are the aids, when I went Nurburging I didn't dare take them off? I consider them my saviours 🙈

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I've honestly never driven on track without everything turned off. However, I use sport mode on the road all the time. the answer is, if you drive within the limits of grip and not the slip angle of the tyres, they will not be a restriction at all. The problem comes when you drive in and beyond the slip angle of the tyres. Going quickly tends to hover in this area so, it will impede you under braking and particularly under power, though it does allow a very small amount of slip. Just not enough for what I want to do though. 

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