Ade's Road and Track Toy

[Ade 517]

@Deacon I wouldn't mind knowing what yours are as mine looks low at the front?

 

 

[Deacon 1357]

7 hours ago, Ade said:

@Deacon I wouldn't mind knowing what yours are as mine looks low at the front?

 

 

I'll measure mine tomorrow and get it posted up @Ade. I believe it's about 330mm front and rear though and I measured mine as 370mm front and rear stock.

[long-gone 152]

On 10/05/2016 at 11:04 AM, Ade said:

 

Gave the car a good some much needed TLC. I've never done any "detailing" before but I had a load of autoglym stuff I bought when I got the car 3.5year ago and never used.

 

I started out washing the car thoroughly with autoglym car shampoo using the usual mitt and two bucket methods and drying with a few microfibres.

 

Then I used the Autoglym clay detailing kit. This took about 2 hours but OMG I had no idea how much crap was still stuck to the paint! Highly recommended if you have never clayed your car before. I wish I took pics to show the dirt ut it is rather satisfying to feel the silky smooth paintwork afterwards. 

 

I had tried using the Resin polish before by hand and found it needed a lot of elbow grease, so I borrowed one of these from my buddy:

 

 

 

Went over the car twice, left to cure a bit, then buffed. Lovely. 

 

Next was the Autoglym Extra Gloss protection. Apply with microfibre, let cure for an hour and buff to a gloss shine.

 

And the results 

 

 

 

 

 

and almost forgot to put on the cossy badge

Looks good, for a non-orange car.

I've always enjoyed the before and after feel of claying - such a difference. I've considered buying a DA polisher, the DAS-6 pro being towards the top of my list. How did you get on with it as a first time user?

[Ade 517]

On 10/05/2016 at 11:04 AM, Ade said:  

Gave the car a good some much needed TLC. I've never done any "detailing" before but I had a load of autoglym stuff I bought when I got the car 3.5year ago and never used.

  I started out washing the car thoroughly with autoglym car shampoo using the usual mitt and two bucket methods and drying with a few microfibres.   Then I used the Autoglym clay detailing kit. This took about 2 hours but OMG I had no idea how much crap was still stuck to the paint! Highly recommended if you have never clayed your car before. I wish I took pics to show the dirt ut it is rather satisfying to feel the silky smooth paintwork afterwards.    I had tried using the Resin polish before by hand and found it needed a lot of elbow grease, so I borrowed one of these from my buddy:       Went over the car twice, left to cure a bit, then buffed. Lovely.    Next was the Autoglym Extra Gloss protection. Apply with microfibre, let cure for an hour and buff to a gloss shine.   And the results            and almost forgot to put on the cossy badge

Looks good, for a non-orange car.

I've always enjoyed the before and after feel of claying - such a difference. I've considered buying a DA polisher, the DAS-6 pro being towards the top of my list. How did you get on with it as a first time user?

Lol thanks! Claying is a ball ache but satisfying for sure. How often should one clay ones car?

I don't really have anything to compare it with as its the only DA I have used. That being said I couldnt really think of anything that could do with changing to improve the experience. Maybe a clever way to keep the feckin cable out the way.

My mate bought it from clean you car with the meguirers package with the two cutting compounts, polishing pads and backing plates. Its the one im going to go for. I still remember the depth of the scratches in his BMW when he bought it and the aggessive cutting compound was able to remove them completely.

[long-gone 152]

Claying depends on the contamination. It's rare I've had to clay a car more than once a year.
Now you have it decently clean, polished and protected just keep on top of it and keep it well protected with a decent wax/glaze.

[Foulsmell 120]

I get away with doing it once every 2 years. In between you can use chemicals to remove the contaminants. These are just spray on rinse off. Like ironx to remove the fall out and Tardis to remove tar spots and biological contaminants. To be honest I use the sprays even before claying as it makes the claying quicker.

[Rich196 103]

You want to avoid claying the car as it will scratch it. Good sealants, to stop stuff sticking to the paint, and a splash of chemicals as above mentioned should stay on top of it.

[Deacon 1357]

23 hours ago, Ade said:

@Deacon I wouldn't mind knowing what yours are as mine looks low at the front?

 

 

Measured it today - I got approximately 340mm from the wheel centre to the flat edge of the arch. Dug out my measurements from the same place when the car was stock and I had 370mm all round apart from the drivers rear that was 380mm. So approximately a 30mm drop all round.

 

[Ade 517]

13 minutes ago, Deacon said:

Measured it today - I got approximately 340mm from the wheel centre to the flat edge of the arch. Dug out my measurements from the same place when the car was stock and I had 370mm all round apart from the drivers rear that was 380mm. So approximately a 30mm drop all round.

 

Cheers for that. I think im going to lower the back about 10mm on mine as it looks a bit odd from some angles and I really dont need any more grip at the front. 

I think i've decided on the SPC lower control arms. Its not a money thing, but rather Im too worried about the thread that controls the length of the arm shearing off on the convention aftermarket control arms. That would cause total failure whereas the tab breaking on the SPCs will just cause the camber to go out at the back. Its a quick fix with a welder! 

[Ade 517]

1 hour ago, Foulsmell said:

I get away with doing it once every 2 years. In between you can use chemicals to remove the contaminants. These are just spray on rinse off. Like ironx to remove the fall out and Tardis to remove tar spots and biological contaminants. To be honest I use the sprays even before claying as it makes the claying quicker.

On recommendation of a friend I have been using Auto Finesee Citrus Power, sprayed on before washing to soften bugs and grime. It seems to work quite well. 

Will Tardis remove the paint sealant? I've got Valet Pro Citrus Tar and Bug remover which, to be honest, needs leaving quite a while to soften tar enough to wipe it off. 

[Ade 517]

37 minutes ago, Rich196 said:

You want to avoid claying the car as it will scratch it. Good sealants, to stop stuff sticking to the paint, and a splash of chemicals as above mentioned should stay on top of it.

Recommendation for a good sealant?

I've got Autoglym Extra Gloss protection at the moment. 

I've also got the high definition wax I was planning to apply at some point (ran out of time at the weekend). 

[Rich196 103]

I would go for something ceramic based these days. Gtechnq, sonax, super natural infinity, carpro reload

[Mark-in-Stoke 488]

There's also Koch Chemie 1k, I have been told by a friend this is one of the most hydrophobic sealants he's ever used (he's used them all as he's a detailer). Will be trying this product myself in the next couple of weeks. Life expectancy is 1 to 3yrs.

Link to video

[Ade 517]

I need to use a more aggressive polish before I start using those hardcore sealants! Still some swirls/marks on the paintwork. Hopefully the meguirers stuff will do the job.

[Rich 378]

8 hours ago, Ade said:

On recommendation of a friend I have been using Auto Finesee Citrus Power, sprayed on before washing to soften bugs and grime. It seems to work quite well. 

Will Tardis remove the paint sealant? I've got Valet Pro Citrus Tar and Bug remover which, to be honest, needs leaving quite a while to soften tar enough to wipe it off. 

Pretty much anything strong enough to remove tar quickly will remove sealant unfortunately. It's the nature of the products.

[Foulsmell 120]

8 hours ago, Ade said: On recommendation of a friend I have been using Auto Finesee Citrus Power, sprayed on before washing to soften bugs and grime. It seems to work quite well. 

Will Tardis remove the paint sealant? I've got Valet Pro Citrus Tar and Bug remover which, to be honest, needs leaving quite a while to soften tar enough to wipe it off. 

Pretty much anything strong enough to remove tar quickly will remove sealant unfortunately. It's the nature of the products.

Yep this. It will remove the wax and sealant layers you've put on but then that's good because you will want to apply new coats anyway to clean, contaminant free paint or polish it.

[Foulsmell 120]

Just a thought. It's generally considered that a wax is better for darker cars like your red to give it a better wet gloss look. It's not all about how hydrophobic it is. Collinite 915 is brilliant and one tin will last you forever.

[Ade 517]

I took my better half out yesterday in my car for the first time since all the mods were done. She was quite impressed with the grip and lack of body roll. Also she agreed it rides very nicely when moving at speed and better than our Mercedes.

Straight line what she was expecting but breaking not so much. Stops very quickly with the AD08Rs

She liked the exhaust note too which is a bonus although like me found it a tad loud when cruising at 80upalongs.

So good result. My aim was always to keep it family friendly. :-)

[Ade 517]

Few pics taken at Snetterton:

also had a look at my stock calipers at the weekend. Dust boots seen better days, but also one of the pistons wasnt gliding smoothly at all. I'll rebuild/refurb them at some point.

[Foulsmell 120]

Nice pics! Apart from the last one.

[Ade 517]

 

Few good videos on chassis setup i've been meaning to share:

 

 

 

[Ade 517]

 

[Ade 517]

 

[Ade 517]

In Tapatalk I could only see two of the videos so I have separated them out. 

[Ade 517]

 

Blyton Park 30/07/2016

 

Saturday I was over at Blyton park with a few fellow GT86/BRZ owners. I’ve never been to Blyton before so there was some learning to do, but was a great day. 

Here's the circuit:

The wiggler was a bit of a challenge, touching about 110Mph before getting on the brakes down to 50-ish its tricky little corner, but I found going wide and turning in early to get a drive on exit was the best way through. 

Port Froid can be taken flat out in a N/A car but I was having trouble judging the speed right, either too fast and over running or scrubbing too much speed as I lifted off at turn-in. 

 

The event was organised by Lotus on Track and the GT86/BRZ Owners tagged along as well a a few caterams.

 

 

As you can see we were over run by Lotus’s…NOT! I think we out numbered them by 2-1 at least. 

 

I had some issues in the morning with my car cutting out which turned out to be dirty MAP connection so I only managed two good 20min runs in the morning but in the afternoon I was able to get four good long runs to work on improving sections.

 

I did have racerender on my phone, but I don’t like it in my pocket (too big) and I forgot to get some velcro so I didn’t use it in the end. I did however have a car cam and could measure lap time using the camera footage. Obviously there is a degree of error involved there but it’s a good indication none-the-less.

Here's an afternoon session with Lauren

 

and my fasted Lap 1min 15.8 seconds with knightly (Sam) in the passenger seat.

 

Definitely about 3-4 seconds to be had with some practice but I am not unhappy with that time after losing some of the morning session. You can hear me cuss going though wiggle where I lost some momentum in the fastest lap video.

I really enjoyed it and looking forward to go back to improve.

Thanks to Lauren and Kevin for the passenger laps and those that helped me with the car when it wasn't running.