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smudge

Headlight adjustment for lowered cars

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Guest

But surely the OEM link isn't adjustable?

I've just read your post which I replied to Smudge. You have said " Can be adjusted with the use of these", I think you meant, " Can be adjusted without the use of these"?

I would have thought the adjustment could be made by physically moving the unit upwards, but the part you have bought is a truly bolt on option.

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Good news ! My car will be down with Adrian next month,  so I asked him to investigate altering the angle of the lights.

 

Today, Adrian has got back and confirmed they can be altered without this adjustment bar, but the bar does make it a little easier.

 

The good news is Fensports are getting a few made up and will be around half the price..

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Guest

Good old Fensport. I'm glad they've offered a more cost effective alternative.

The ball ends cost peanuts and the threaded central part could be knocked up on a lathe in minutes. I'm certainly going to make my own.

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Guest

I've made some measurements on my car to save you all having to do the same.

The pivot point to pivot point dimension of the lower rear arm is 470mm and the inner pivot point to the adjusting rod pivot point is 170mm.

So, we can assume the adjusting rod is acting roughly 1/3rd of the distance from the middle of the tyre to the inner pivot point, so the arm needs to be made roughly 1/3rd of your lowered dimension shorter. The standard rod is 85mm long. So, if you have lowered your car by 30mm, your new adjustment rod needs to be 10mm shorter for correct headlight beam adjustment. If you've lowered your car by 50mm, then you need a rod which is around 17mm shorter and so on.

The beauty of using the left and right hand threads on the ball joints, with the central nut on the linkage, means you could fine adjust your beam angle in situ.

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