CHOSENMAN007

Active Pro is the one to get with the GPS module for the speed. I've spent a lot of time programming mine and I think that most of those with it have used my settings as a starting point. The good thing is you can stiffer the outer dampers under load more than the inner ones and you can choose this difference according to G-Force. I have ten settings on mine, but I only use one setting for track where it starts off stiffer, but still uses the same increase as what I use on the road. I turn off the speed settings for track as it's already starting out a fair bit stiffer, so you need to factor in how much range you are going to work with. It makes the car very, very progressive on track and well, on the road too if you're so inclined. I've driven a number of other people's cars without the EDFC and none seem to be as progressive as mine, it just doesn't bite, ever. 
Go for the 6/6kg spring if you want it nicely balanced and 5/6kg if you want it to tend to a bit more oversteer. I run 5/6kg. 
I've had mine fitted since my car had done 25K, it's now on 96K miles and the EDFC with the stepper motors has been absolutely faultless. 
Have a chat with Yukiko at TEIN UK.

Thats a shame, as you say would of been good to compare back to back, if the konis come off let me know as always interested to try different setups  
 
Ian

Active Pro has independent 4 wheel adjustment and lateral G force adjustment. So it can vary the stiffness left to right as well as front to back. Active just does front to back. I think it's worth it as the cornering adjustment is one of the best features of EDFC - it reduces roll without needing to fit overly stiff ARBs.
Also, Active Pro has ECU speed input, so if you opt for Active you'll need the GPS kit.
There's a table at the bottom of this page with a comparison of the kits: http://www.tein.co.uk/product/edfc_active_pro.html

My 86 came with Tein Streetflex with EDFC Active Pro and GPS kit, this means you can manually adjust things in car like normal EDFC, or set it to Active mode which monitors speed and G force and adjusts to suit, ive not really messed with the Active side of things so far (only had car a few weeks) and just used the manual settings, flicking between various settings depending what im doing. It seems pretty good and ive been playing around with front spring rates to try and get best balance for comfort and handling, still pretty firm even on soft settings for some of the truly awful roads we have here in Lake District mind.
Whereabouts are you located ?  I would be interested to see how the Koni setup rides on these cars as ive always used them on other cars with great success, would be good to meet up to compare on the off chance your in north of England.
Ian

For the EDFC, the adjustments are whatever you tell it to make - can be done from speed and g-force. The GPS I think is just for an "accurate" speed figure and if you don't have it, it uses the one from the ECU

They did. Then Stan's engine which was formally Keith's (having an HKS Stroker kit that we know is not forged) went bang, at the TSS at Anglesey last summer. So Stan had to have it rebuilt not using HKS parts of course. 

Thanks, certainly are. Only good thing about continental shifts is the days off midweek when roads are quiet.

sell the 0z's for lambo doors is that what you're saying?

paid 1050 delivered which im super happy about to be honest not sure whether to sell or keep my ultraleggeras
 

Your deal gets better and better. And get through them you will. Tread ware is rather quick. But sticky! By the way yokohamas are Japanese 😃

Some of us were in Hook last Sunday James
 

What Oz wheels are you on? Oz to xxr is quite a downgrade!

Haha but hope he gets a decent set of wheels after all this.

Those wheel weights are fairly approximate, so give a rough guide. I'm not sure if something is lost as they seem to be listed in pounds. For example my 17x8 TE37 are said to weigh 7.57kg. But Rays list them at 7.2kg. Mine when powdercoated came in at 7.4kg which would seem about right with the addition of the powder coat. Not a huge difference, but I admit I can't work in antiquated bloody pounds and ounces! 

Good deal on that. Well done.

By the way wait on choosing kits. There is a new turbo kit coming out and it's turbo is supposed to deliver linear power like a s.c. price will probably be competitive too. Not long now.

Too late, i found an AVO stage 3 billet with race breather and dump valve for just £2000, with 20k miles and previously fitted at fensport. They are gonna fit and tune tune so that will be taken care of responsibly. I'm not after more than 270/280 as don't want to risk the stock block either.
Obviously i'll be buying one of these coolers before i track it

Stark performance A.T cooler.
I had a sprintex with methanol injection on my car running 240 wheel stock A.T trans. S.c is off the car now. Had zero issues with the trans at that pwr level.
I'm pretty sure the trans will handle more defo. But not much more. For road you will be fine. Hard track use is what will blow it as the heat will cause the clutch packs to just fail. I've really looked into this subject as I've had a manual car and a auto.
A new torque converter won't do nothing for longevity. I spoke to various auto box specialists and they all said you will have to rebuild your clutch packs to handle more torque. The peak hp is not the worry it's the torque. 
 
Yeah you can put 350 on the box for sure it's been done but it's clear the box will give in no doubt. Proven. It's longevity you need. 
 
If it's big bhp your after you choose the wrong 86. 
You can run more power with a trans cooler but avoid the track. Or just a few Laps here and there.
 
By the way the box is straight out a older lexus and not designed for high performance 
 
If going turbo no more than a stage 1. 2 at most. 250ish wheel I'd say will be your limit.
 
Centrifugal s.c will be your best bet as torque is thin until top end. They can also produce bigger numbers your looking for top end.

Stock wheels are 9.2kg. So these are significantly heavier. It will blunt every aspect of performance a bit. I would look for lighter wheels. The stock ones aren't light. 
I would say look at lightweight Japanese wheels. Enkei, Work, Advan, Rays etc. 
Forged are the lightest, but also the most expensive. 

Just curious at what people think is the best BHP per Ton of a Gt86/BRZ. On paper 280bhp does not seem a lot by todays standard but if you look at power to weight is punches with some amazing cars standard. Hot hatches ie focus st produces far less.
I figure 240-250 seems the sweet spot as that is what most Forced inducted kits put out at stage 1. Turbo or s.c
280-290 (crank) to 1250kg car = 241 bhp per ton.
Just to put it in retro spec a

Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X FQ 400 -  is at 258bhp per ton
Porsche Cayman S 3.4l - [2012]  is 242bhp per ton
No end goal here just out of curiosity and to see where people are with their cars or if more power = less or more fun for a daily car : ) 
 

Probably the only ginger worth having, GLWTS

I agree with this. I've gotten away with no supporting mods other than the brakes. The car is soooo much better FI than NA. Taking corners really fast is no longer the only source of excitement.
If I built the engine, did the exhaust, did the chassis mods......there is no chance it would have the same transformative effect of just going FI in the first place.
going back to the original question......... taking everything in to consideration (including value for £££) I would say absolutely ideal power for this car is around 260-270whp. I.E just within what the stock internals can hold.

265/40/18 PS4 on the rear, 235/45/18 PS3 front. Needs arch rolling tho!
 
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I can't imagine ever wanting more than the 250bhp/ton that I have.
When it's as fast in a straight-line as a Cayman S and M3, but lighter and likely quicker through the corners...why should I want more?
I'd get envy if a supercar overtook me, but then his brake setup likely cost more than my entire car, so the envy would be fleeting!

Mine feels good at 172 bhp/ton, but I could use a bit more sometimes. Partly it's delivery too - the standard car feels slower than it is because of the lumpy torque.