Mark@Abbey M/S

I think your find the 600deg C is the controlled temperature of the element in the O2 internals. The sensor is heated for it to work quicker and more consistent.

The EGT readings that you can read on OBD readings is via the O2 sensor but this is the temp the element is running out , it is shielded from full exhaust gas flow so I would believe that temp.
 
SC car seem to run high EGT. Manufacturers CATS are far better quality than any of the CATS brick used on after market kits unless you spend a lot of money so they seem to last a lot longer when running on a FI car. Running the after market CAT as far away from the engine is the best way to make them last but this also causes issues with keeping them hot enough for MOT emission testing.
Thanks
 
 
 

The EGT readings that you can read on OBD readings is via the O2 sensor but this is the temp the element is running out , it is shielded from full exhaust gas flow so I would believe that temp.
 
SC car seem to run high EGT. Manufacturers CATS are far better quality than any of the CATS brick used on after market kits unless you spend a lot of money so they seem to last a lot longer when running on a FI car. Running the after market CAT as far away from the engine is the best way to make them last but this also causes issues with keeping them hot enough for MOT emission testing.
Thanks
 
 
 

The EGT readings that you can read on OBD readings is via the O2 sensor but this is the temp the element is running out , it is shielded from full exhaust gas flow so I would believe that temp.
 
SC car seem to run high EGT. Manufacturers CATS are far better quality than any of the CATS brick used on after market kits unless you spend a lot of money so they seem to last a lot longer when running on a FI car. Running the after market CAT as far away from the engine is the best way to make them last but this also causes issues with keeping them hot enough for MOT emission testing.
Thanks
 
 
 

seen this a few times on SC cars , seems it fails on the stress edge when the manifold parts where stamped They only fail on Charged cars not on NA cars
 

Sold

You can also play with the water flow through the Laminova cooler to control the oil temps. Think make a Full/Partial Water restrictor for the Laminova cooler. 

All thermostatic take off plates will have a small amount of trickle of oil as this is what passes the oil across the end of the wax stat that opens/shuts the oil flow to the cooler.
There are + and - for both Oil cooler sets ups , air to oil/water to oil heat exchangers.  The FA20 motors do seem to warm up pretty quickly oil temp wise we have seen this on the Nissan VQ motor as well the oil is used to control a lot of extra modern features than older cars so the oil is worked harder in its usage.
Also beware on cheaper make oil cooler matrix's the cheaper ones restrict flow and cause higher pressure drops than quality matrix like from Mocal/Sebtrab.
 
 

All thermostatic take off plates will have a small amount of trickle of oil as this is what passes the oil across the end of the wax stat that opens/shuts the oil flow to the cooler.
There are + and - for both Oil cooler sets ups , air to oil/water to oil heat exchangers.  The FA20 motors do seem to warm up pretty quickly oil temp wise we have seen this on the Nissan VQ motor as well the oil is used to control a lot of extra modern features than older cars so the oil is worked harder in its usage.
Also beware on cheaper make oil cooler matrix's the cheaper ones restrict flow and cause higher pressure drops than quality matrix like from Mocal/Sebtrab.
 
 

Keeping the water temp cooler will help oil temp but not enough in this situation.
Running a water/oil cooler set up can cause issues with coolant temps rising due to the oil temperature being controlled by the lower water temp but I am sure Ade has reported his car suffers no issues with raised Water temps.. I doubt the Forester set up will be man enough to keep a GT86/BRZ motor oil cool on the circuit thou as the heat exchanger is very small in size.
 
 
 
 
 

Keeping the water temp cooler will help oil temp but not enough in this situation.
Running a water/oil cooler set up can cause issues with coolant temps rising due to the oil temperature being controlled by the lower water temp but I am sure Ade has reported his car suffers no issues with raised Water temps.. I doubt the Forester set up will be man enough to keep a GT86/BRZ motor oil cool on the circuit thou as the heat exchanger is very small in size.
 
 
 
 
 

Keeping the water temp cooler will help oil temp but not enough in this situation.
Running a water/oil cooler set up can cause issues with coolant temps rising due to the oil temperature being controlled by the lower water temp but I am sure Ade has reported his car suffers no issues with raised Water temps.. I doubt the Forester set up will be man enough to keep a GT86/BRZ motor oil cool on the circuit thou as the heat exchanger is very small in size.
 
 
 
 
 

Keeping the water temp cooler will help oil temp but not enough in this situation.
Running a water/oil cooler set up can cause issues with coolant temps rising due to the oil temperature being controlled by the lower water temp but I am sure Ade has reported his car suffers no issues with raised Water temps.. I doubt the Forester set up will be man enough to keep a GT86/BRZ motor oil cool on the circuit thou as the heat exchanger is very small in size.
 
 
 
 
 

Well it has arrived;
 
No time to dyno for a few days thou :-(
 
looks lovely thou , built in Overpipe is a nice feature as well.
 

Hi Guys,
 
Just wanted to give Abbey Motorsport a shout out and thank them for helping me out yesterday.
 
Nice personal touch helping me get the parts i needed with the afterhours pick up, honestly cant thank you enough!
 
 
P.S you will be selling me alot more parts in the future! 
 

Small update on these Cobra HFC we have had a couple of NA cars fail on the CO readings while having a MOT test our SC car passed easily but both NA car's even with the HFC pre heated  the car/s wouldn't make the correct CO reading but not every car has failed with the latest Cobra HFC
 Abbey/Cobra are looking into updating the HFC to sort this issue.
We will be in contact with everyone that has brought this updated HFC from us after the holiday period with what is going to happen.
Thanks
Mark
 
 
 

1st kit had issues with pistons due to a duff in take lift pump.
We have a number of kits running in UK cars without any issues over the last 2 years
 

rear toe/camber also makes a difference to understeer as well we have found.
A lot of camber on the front makes a car not nice on our bad roads, a rear bar stops the understeer but allows a reasonable amount of front camber to be run that doesn't make the car tram line to much.

I don't know what I bother sometime's Ade.
I can drive pretty well, been around race cars for a long time proper race cars as well , listened to a lot of engineers talking about stuff , spent sometime building dampers.
I was only just adding my 1 pence worth what we have found that works and doesn't on a GT86 most people don't what to know why it works just want something that works.
1st thing on a GT86 I feel is go and have some tuition your then understand how the car works and what it is telling you.
Thanks
 
(sorry Rob for hi jacking your thread)
 
 
 

I don't know what I bother sometime's Ade.
I can drive pretty well, been around race cars for a long time proper race cars as well , listened to a lot of engineers talking about stuff , spent sometime building dampers.
I was only just adding my 1 pence worth what we have found that works and doesn't on a GT86 most people don't what to know why it works just want something that works.
1st thing on a GT86 I feel is go and have some tuition your then understand how the car works and what it is telling you.
Thanks
 
(sorry Rob for hi jacking your thread)
 
 
 

Just a rear bar upgrade is what I advise everyone seems pretty happy with this set up. Stay away from anything to big on the rear bar as it makes the car too stiff on the rear lifts an inside rear wheel loosing grip
calms the turn in under-steer but isnt too stiff to cause the car to lift a rear wheel , running without an uprated front bar helps front grip as running a larger bar will cause the grip to be removed from the inner front wheel when the car tries to roll.
 

Harrop SC has now been ordered , thanks @Mark@Abbey M/S. Can't wait to get some reasonable power. 

@AJ124 meet @ peasepottage services to swop over? wait for the funny replies....
 

Yes  1st 4 arrived on Friday, will be in touch very soon for payment.
 
Thanks

these cars suffer from not enough rear suspension travel , you can jiggle most dampers around so you gain some travel back after lowering but you loose some droop which will cause issues when braking hard (dive) the rear dampers top out ( unable to droop anymore) can cause handling issues and lack of droop can make a car uncomfortable on a bumpy road.