KobayashiMaru

Holy crap, an update. Rarer than a Blue Eyes White Pepe 

I'm famous. I'll take that 

I would love one of these

This does the same job but without the NVH the whiteline gives. Would be the route I'd take if buying again:-
http://www.amber-performance.co.uk/product.php?xProd=25518&xSec=8577

I like OZ, but then I would say that wouldn't I... Had them on my Griff, 350Z and now GT86.
Never tried HLT but I'd guess they're that much better again.

You're a forgiving lot. I think it's admirable that you take responsibility for your own cars, but we're paying through the nose for dealership (and indeed specialist service). Which is fine if you get what you pay for. This isn't the guy down the arches who'll service it for a tenner...
Anyway there are conscientious dealers around, and not so good. Takes a while to figure out which.
At least these guys took some responsibility in the end (kind of). I'd still look for another dealer though. I've been lied to by main dealers too. They only get to do it the once...
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I can't agree with some of the comments on here. Whilst I've been instructed by tyre fitters to return after 50 miles for retorquing (and it needs to be retorquing - a tyre brace doesn't cut it) I've never been asked by a dealer to do so.

The average motorist doesn't possess a torque wrench anyway. Plus the standard 'fifty miles' advice presumably gives some margin - I.e the wheel might need retorquing so that it doesn't loosen over the next x thousand miles, not that it'll be dangerously loose like the OPs at that point.

This is a safety issue. That wheel clearly wasn't secured at all and if there'd been an accident they should have been looking at charges for criminal negligence.
Depending on their response to the OP when he complains (mistakes happen, even serious ones and they may hold their hands up and respond accordingly) I wouldn't consider using this workshop.
I've had garages get things wrong, but the good ones agree with the customer and put it right. If they go the extra mile with the OP, it'll show that this is an unusual slip in standards, if they fob him off then it indicates they probably don't care

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Differential and just in front of the skid plate are your central jacking points.
All four corners on the pinch weld I would suggest using a cut hockey puck to distribute the load around the weld.

Ollie, I would think this is a warranty claim. 
I can't believe you took it to Kwik Shit. 

I'm sorry I don't get the appeal of a the rat look. Also I think it only works on old cars. Can you not get it repaired through insurance? 

Demon Tweeks
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That's 225/40 18 on an 8 inch rim. I think another half inch wouldn't trouble them.
I find that's just the right amount of tyre. I wouldn't want 235s particularly.
Try googling tyre size calculator. There's a brilliant site where you can enter your current and future wheel and tyre sizes and it shows you exactly how they'll sit on the car.
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225's on an 8" rim is fine. I'd go 8.5" to pull the sidewall slighty and give a little less flex whilst cornering. A 235 won't be as good as a 225, I would say. You'd certainly want an 8.5 or 8.75" wide rim for a 235. I think 235s are over tyring the car though. I run a 215 (stock sizes) on an 8" rim. I've tried 225, but didn't like it. Too much sidewall flex. 
Sidewall flex will be a little less on a 40 profile tyres versus a 45 like I had though. 

Lovely beads! Love Collinite.
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For me it's all new because I'm used to tuning Skoda's. A quick map seeing easy gains, change intercooler, exhaust system and intake for stage 2 and my Mk2 Octavia vRS has 282bhp. Now it's a boxer and N/A tuning I need to get my head around what mods actually benefit it as it's fairly tuned already. A catback and a downpipe saw good gains on my vRS but on the 86 it's better to change manifold first? That's probably one of the first things I change.

For now we'll stick with N/A as I don't want to lose the "86ness" of the car just yet plus he has to get used to RWD (came from a Swift Sport). I owned a Z4M a few years ago but this somehow this seems more playful and fun even though it's not as powerful and in mnay ways it's better. It's probably because it's limits are more achievable and it's definitely a chassis that's confidence inspiring. No doubt you'll see many silly questions over the coming days.


Detailed it and got a few more coats of Collinite wax on so it's beading well now.

The wheels have changed colour since this picture, but you should be able to see from this angle.

Quick spin out at lunchtime to try the new set up in the damp.
Wow - what a transformation. So much more confidence in the car. The decent damping keeps all four wheels on the Tarmac and thus grip levels much more predictable and the tyres actually grip. It will still step out but only if you want it to.
Now got the car I always wanted it to be. Grip and predictability without losing the feel and shift of balance on the throttle. Last time I felt this confident in a car on a B road was in my Puma fifteen years ago.
I think I might be in love
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And shortlist #2

225 on an 8.5, to me, is perfect. Enough stretch to look good and stiffen up the sidewalk, but not too much that you lose the rim protection.
You have to remembe that rim protection differs per tyre. Find a tyre with a good rim protector, and you'll still get the benefits with a 225 on an 8.5. I have Vredestein tyres which are very highly rated summer tyres, and they have great rim protection.

Watched the first couple of episodes with Alex. Makes very little sense in the best tradition of Japanese animation.
"Does your car do that Dad?"
"Yes, Alex. Yes it does..."

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Tareim: That also means that there is less chance to fsck up with completely wrong settings with unshakeable confidence "from internet" that it's "best". As in most cases it's driver behind the wheel, that limits speed, often better results can be got with one having more seat time & adapting for longer time to specific settings, even if they are not ideal, instead of endless fiddling with knobs. More driver confidence, better familiarity with car and what to expect from it at limit .. it all matters. Majority of us doesn't spend enough time on track to dial in something much better incrementally, checking impact of each change (eg. coilovers adjusting knobs turns) one by one, even more so to find specific best settings for each and every from those mentioned 'all ocassions'. Also unadjustable of same budget/price can be of higher quality, then eg. shiny colorful with loads of knobs cheap taiwanese coilovers that sometimes may be worse then stock (just like stereo hifi amp of higher class vs lower class surround multichannel one of same price). Hence weighing out all that imho there are more pros then cons to unadjustable ones. There are exceptions to this .. but not for majority.

Brilliant
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www.tuned.org.uk

Thanks bud!

Link won't be here forever. 55:15 in you see the GT86