nerdstrike

Where do you suppose the energy comes from that makes the post-turbo air charge hot? It's proportionate to the temperature of the air coming into the turbo. Aside from a bit of soak from the impeller itself, it's mainly the compression that increases the temperature - see ideal gas law. The higher the starting temperature the more energy in the resulting compressed air,  and the more effort it takes to compress. The intercooler can take 10 degrees or more out of the intake charge, but I don't believe the cooling efficiency increases with temperature as much as the heat of compression does.
That's before you take into account the practical effects of a car that heatsoaks at idle and has to drain the engine bay of hot air, instead of just the intake volume. I've lost count of how many times I've seen people complaining about wobbly idles and erratic fuelling from replacing their intakes and filter boxes. Good air supply matters! At least to a point. NA ram-scoops have a tiny effect, and most cold air induction kits trade weather resilience for marginal improvements over OEM offerings.

Halfords got me a CR1632 battery for same day pickup within 2 hours from my local store. Ordered online, 2 hours later and ready for collection. Very easy to replace as well; take the emergency key out and use the small lip on the end to lever the key open using the slot (it's like they designed it that way!).

Welcome to the haven for RX8 owners in mourning. You will find 50-80% improvement in fuel economy, 50% greater tyre endurance, an easily accessible oil filter, reliable starting and the droplinks will still be attached. Also the sparkplugs are where you expect them, behind the wheel arches.
Enjoy your car!

I take it this isn't the supermarket store room?

I think this is the right place for it, as we shall be mocking it for its portly kerb weight, impractical cargo, "dynamic service intervals", 

Just went out with a commercial grade food thermometer and with the ignition on and the probe at a similar height it was reading the same, so I'm happy. Must of just been warmer than I thought all this time

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

I was wrong. It was a Lib Dem pamphlet highlighting the scandal of reduced green waste collection over christmas.

I haven't received my first post in 2019, but I put good odds on it being a "Manager's Special Event" from Steven Eagell

I haven't received my first post in 2019, but I put good odds on it being a "Manager's Special Event" from Steven Eagell

I'm pretty sure your BRZ was on their forecourt for a good while. I haven't seen one on the forecourt recently. I reckon it's on Street View. It's famous!

w.r.t. the speed-related squeal, you could try regreasing your pad carriers and checking whether the relevant shims are present. We are at the damp 'n' dirty part of the year, so these kinds of issues get more pronounced on top of the already squeaky OEM pads. It's unlikely you'd get a speed-related cyclic noise that's not in the wheel arches.
@Mike - it's called surface dressing, and I'm on my third windscreen now.

I had the lead mechanic at Bedford Bromham tell me, '[he] hates working on these cars, they're pains in the arse and we dont really know much about them'.
 
So my car goes to Fensport in Chatteris, near Cambridge now.

I'm convinced everyone on here is a total bass junky. I know the tyre noise raises the noise floor of the lows a huge amount, but some upgraded woofers have more oomph than the door cards can manage... they really thrum if you push it!

In my chemistry days I had to figure what solvents to use to preferentially dissolve things. The cleaning pattern in increasing severity went thus: soapy water -> scrubby brush -> acetone -> conc. hydrochloric acid -> ultrasound bath -> piranha solution. You're still at stage two so there's a few non-dangerous options to try yet!
See if you can cadge some nail polish remover and try that on a spot. It's just acetone with some perfume in it. Try to keep it away from the plastic and rubber parts.
WD40 is a lightweight and volatile oil blend, so it may or may not do the job.

I sense many bald tyres in your future!

I sense many bald tyres in your future!

Ok, so here's my attempt at a dimensioned drawing for you Nerdstrike...

 
Can't remember what First angle or Third angle projection is these days 😳 (was 20 years ago when I did my Engineering OND).
Anyway here's some more pictures with the right hand one (There's obviously a cut out in the left hand one for the phone holder bracket, but I guess you don't need the dimensions for that?!).

It's not a myth, but usually the adaptation is toward safety and economy rather than "gains". A remap takes away some safety margin, or puts some back in if you're adding boost.
Things that can change:
Derestricted intake (e.g. less effective air filter), leans out AFR, ECU applies a little extra fuel to compensate Dodgy intake misleads air meter, car makes more peak power by leaning out the AFR. May self-correct over time. Freer breathing engine makes more usable power - irrespective of fuelling, an engine under less load can generate more torque. Exhaust pressure is load, intake restriction is load. It may make a little extra on top due to unexpected leanness. Things that cannot change without intervention:
The base map. That safety margin for crap fuel, bad weather, high altitude and such is still there. Trims have upper and lower limits - you can't just add a turbo and expect the ECU to compensate. You might just about be able to handle a low pressure supercharger, but you would be living right on the edge. It doesn't know you need a different AFR, but it can at least add more fuel to match the observed airflow. Valve timing and lift settings, ignition timing In "closed loop" at low load the ECU uses the O2 sensor in the exhaust to compute a short-term fuel trim which it combines with long term and base map to decide fuelling. That informs the next fuel injection cycle and the long term fuel trim is tweaked. In "open loop" at high load, the ECU ignores the O2 sensor and blindly applies the long term trim to the base map. The learning is in the range of +/- 20%.
Disconnecting the battery and flushing the trims is usually less helpful than normal driving.

It's not a myth, but usually the adaptation is toward safety and economy rather than "gains". A remap takes away some safety margin, or puts some back in if you're adding boost.
Things that can change:
Derestricted intake (e.g. less effective air filter), leans out AFR, ECU applies a little extra fuel to compensate Dodgy intake misleads air meter, car makes more peak power by leaning out the AFR. May self-correct over time. Freer breathing engine makes more usable power - irrespective of fuelling, an engine under less load can generate more torque. Exhaust pressure is load, intake restriction is load. It may make a little extra on top due to unexpected leanness. Things that cannot change without intervention:
The base map. That safety margin for crap fuel, bad weather, high altitude and such is still there. Trims have upper and lower limits - you can't just add a turbo and expect the ECU to compensate. You might just about be able to handle a low pressure supercharger, but you would be living right on the edge. It doesn't know you need a different AFR, but it can at least add more fuel to match the observed airflow. Valve timing and lift settings, ignition timing In "closed loop" at low load the ECU uses the O2 sensor in the exhaust to compute a short-term fuel trim which it combines with long term and base map to decide fuelling. That informs the next fuel injection cycle and the long term fuel trim is tweaked. In "open loop" at high load, the ECU ignores the O2 sensor and blindly applies the long term trim to the base map. The learning is in the range of +/- 20%.
Disconnecting the battery and flushing the trims is usually less helpful than normal driving.

It's not a myth, but usually the adaptation is toward safety and economy rather than "gains". A remap takes away some safety margin, or puts some back in if you're adding boost.
Things that can change:
Derestricted intake (e.g. less effective air filter), leans out AFR, ECU applies a little extra fuel to compensate Dodgy intake misleads air meter, car makes more peak power by leaning out the AFR. May self-correct over time. Freer breathing engine makes more usable power - irrespective of fuelling, an engine under less load can generate more torque. Exhaust pressure is load, intake restriction is load. It may make a little extra on top due to unexpected leanness. Things that cannot change without intervention:
The base map. That safety margin for crap fuel, bad weather, high altitude and such is still there. Trims have upper and lower limits - you can't just add a turbo and expect the ECU to compensate. You might just about be able to handle a low pressure supercharger, but you would be living right on the edge. It doesn't know you need a different AFR, but it can at least add more fuel to match the observed airflow. Valve timing and lift settings, ignition timing In "closed loop" at low load the ECU uses the O2 sensor in the exhaust to compute a short-term fuel trim which it combines with long term and base map to decide fuelling. That informs the next fuel injection cycle and the long term fuel trim is tweaked. In "open loop" at high load, the ECU ignores the O2 sensor and blindly applies the long term trim to the base map. The learning is in the range of +/- 20%.
Disconnecting the battery and flushing the trims is usually less helpful than normal driving.

It's alright Nigel, non-rotaries can usually tell when the sparks are not happening. It only gets troublesome when you have more than one plug per cylinder.

In my chemistry days I had to figure what solvents to use to preferentially dissolve things. The cleaning pattern in increasing severity went thus: soapy water -> scrubby brush -> acetone -> conc. hydrochloric acid -> ultrasound bath -> piranha solution. You're still at stage two so there's a few non-dangerous options to try yet!
See if you can cadge some nail polish remover and try that on a spot. It's just acetone with some perfume in it. Try to keep it away from the plastic and rubber parts.
WD40 is a lightweight and volatile oil blend, so it may or may not do the job.

I've experienced squeak-like behaviour on another car when the clutch slave seals started to go. That was 8 years old though, so probably not the issue here.
You know your clutch slave is the problem when the pedal doesn't come back up!

I petition to change the thread title to "TC at light speed"

The standard speakers weigh about as much as a pub coaster and are just as soggy. They're clearly the cheapest they could possibly be.
The only factory upgraded sound system from Toyota was the JBL kit, which costs a packet, and shouldn't offend you even if it's not the best value for money. You can confirm this by finding the JBL sub under the boot carpet.
The head unit is tolerable, and it's tricky to find ones that fit flush with the Toyota fascia, so that's a last thing I would attend to. I aim to replace it eventually, but more for Android Auto support than anything else.