Church

Many turbo even family cars & SUVs can win it in straight line. But in twin you can outbrake / outturn them, and enjoy better handling/more fun of driving. Don't expect from it what it isn't (fast straight line accelerating car), try it as it is meant to (relatively cheap good handling momentum car with slightly more practicality them mx5) at eg. some twisty road and very probably you won't be dissapointed. Hard to judge how many and to what extent mod them. After all, majority probably run stock, are not in forum and probably are not participating in any meets, while many forum users may mod to some extent theirs. It's hard to draw any statistics from niche of users that are here and try to generalize upon all the possible average owners of these cars.
BTW, i suggest first simply to test drive one, if it's what you really want. Nothing will tell you better if twins will be to your liking or not, and if lack of FI pushing into seats may set you off more then good handling in twisties. After all, different people do have different preferences, and there is nothing wrong with liking something else. And own testdrive will tell much better then words of people that may like different things

Honda were getting 100bhp/1lr 20 years ago, when emission requirements were way way way more lax. It was getting harder and harder to keep on and even they, in my eyes best NA inline-4 makers, gave up. Current type-R has forced induction - does it says something to you? High efficiency NA engines becoming thing of past (excluding poster super cars mere mortals won't own) and in that light i have high respect for toyobaru for FA20.

OE audio & satnav solutions almost for all vendors always lag a lot in features and support. It needs to be certified by many standards and adhere many obscure requirements, it often lasts alongside life of many car models for 5+ years, so no wonder that most OE solutions are prehistoric and only on very latest models with especially marketed for new multimedia features they are not prehistoric, but just dated. Only aftermarket car audio vendors more or less keep up with generic consumer electronic progress. I'd say, we are lucky to not have tape recorders in our cars :). As for music .. my own choice on OE headunits of these cars would be using usb flash with mp3. Flashdrives are hell of a cheap for 32-64-128G sizes and can fit most music from average music collections many have. Of course, there also are some limitations, as in what filesystem type needs to be used, specific dir structure to ease selection/navigation or having mp3 tags entered for all files (depending if having satnav module or not, as IIRC it changed also mp3 playback firmware bit), but overall by simplicity and ease of use my choice would be mp3 off usb.

Imho it's not about height, but also about body proportions, eg. leg length/body length/hands length and such. After all, for ideal pose one needs to be from pedals with legs still bent some to tire less and be able to push on pedals stronger, and also back of seat needs to be at certain distance, so that steering wheel can be held with bent lengths, again for less tiredness and finer control. I'm not too long, ~ 185cm, and i could manage ideal pose in stock car for daily driving .. but unfortunately that meant if i also was wearing helmet, as on track i do, i needed to compromise for helmet to not touch roof. Be it with too lowered back of seat and too far steering wheel with almost straight hands, or moving seat too close to steering wheel, resulting in too bent legs / knees interfering with steering wheel. Offset/closer to driver steering wheel alleviates that somewhat. Other option - aftermarket bucket seats with low profile mount (and such seats should also be used with rollcage (which in turn mandates helmet usage) and multipoint harnesses and all that combo is not street legal here).
Oh, for extra headroom there is also option of trimming seat cushions and slightly revelding base to sit lower, but so far i havent't yet decided on it.

Hi Kaltorak,
If you car is gently following the natural camber in the road that is perfectly normal I'd imagine? After all the car is following the path of least resistance and gravity. It's another thing if the car is pulling sharply then you might have a problem. 
The best thing to check is on a perfectly flat section of road that has no apparent camber and see if the car pulls in any direction. As Church has also correctly advised, check wheel nut torque, pressures and an alignment check. 
It may be that you have fitted directional or asymmetric tyres and I've found that they are more sensitive to tramlining where the car will follow grooves and ruts in the road. Tyres that have a continuous band of rubber are more prone to this issue. 
Hope this helps. 

Hmm, what? @UK they can fail MOT even for TPMS light lit? o_O

OllyW: thanks for link. At last i see pics of those stalks disassembled. Though still it's a bit hard to make out, if it's possible to move/mount/bend them a bit angled/closer to steering wheel, which is what i'd wish to do in my car (installed steering wheel that is with offset 20cm closer to driver, so would love to angle those stalks more too, to be as close to wheel like to stock's).

Imho if thieves really will decide on it, no increased safety measures will prevent it. Mine is insured, so i decided against adding/using extra safeguards like those of signal blocker bags for keyless fobs or hidden custom killswitches in car or gps trackers. If it will get stolen i'll get insurance money, but won't have to deal with extra hassles those extra safeguards may bring. It's just as with wheel lock nuts. They probably won't fend of thieves, yet will bring inconvenience.

I didn't know about RRG when I brought my car from the Toyota dealer in Preston (wasn't aware or the two UK forums either until after being an owner), but thankfully by the time my first service came around I'd picked up on the good reviews and discussions on the forums and so have used them every year since. Funnily enough when my local dealer phoned me to book me in for that first service and I told them that I was going to use RRG instead the girl on the phone laughed and said something like 'oh no, not another one, I'll take you off the list as well'  so I think even then other dealers were well aware of the RRG effect on their return business!

As main goal from me when fitting camera, was to ease parallel parking in very tight spaces without having to leave the car to check distances, even while fensport's kit isn't pointed well to see far back, it does it's job showing from above edge of bumper and distance to bumper of car next in row (or other objects), letting me go "till last cm", so i don't care much about not the right angle.
After all, when while driving in reverse i want to see further back, i can use rear view mirror / sidemirrors, or turn head back with hand on passenger seat headest. Camera for me is just to ease judging distance when parking, given very bad rearwards visibility and hard to precisely gauge distance (compared to other cars i drove in past).

I've had a few. My car is on 120K miles and getting on for six years old. It will be free of charge and will not cost you anything. It's for the lifetime of the car, irrespective of owner etcetera. 

Believe all free and does not matter about who the own is. Its the manufacturer basically fixing something because its a security risk.

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Those powerblocks do well on otherwise completely stock car. For some loss near redline, they add noticeably at lower/mid rpms (which also happen to be used more at daily driving). They move "optimisation", power & torque peak to lower rpms.
They make a less sense to be used with custom ecu tune/other boltons though.
Imho best bet for NA power gains is aftermarket airfilter+catless header+ecu tune. And, if at local fuel stations available, E85 as fuel (+E85 tune or flexfuel kit & flexfuel tune).

Just better looking? Consider spray painting calipers. (of course using special paint that can stand better high temps). I guess, should cover 80% of that goal, for very cheap.

You mean something like Toyota Techstream?

Well my car has now covered 101,330 miles which have been faultless apart from the Smart Locking System that went wrong last year
Have renewed the Service Contract for another 30,000 miles which is 1.5yrs servicing covered
A couple of photo's taken at Spa last Tuesday..........
Just a quick question : How do you know when the Coil Packs need replacing on this car ?

Gains deleting soundtube: quieter cabin, including less road noise passed inside; some dislike "artificialness" of noise it produces; very slight weight gain and cleaner underbonnet space; no (bad) impact on performance (unlike deletion of resonators on intake too).
Cons: i prefer to have that extra noise. When tried to plug it off for test sake, even if it was just subjective feel, but car (with stock exhaust) felt more dull and lifeless, slower (even if just by placebo, as performance by dyno tests is same), so i ended up even going opposite way, installed trd soundtube changer (it costs cheap. In case if i want revert car 100% back to stock, decided to get trd's instead of gutting insides of stock angled plastic piece connecting soundtube to cabin) that made soundtube effect even louder; while some may dislike that soundtube "artificial" intake noise, with stock exhaust it's better then nothing, and much much cheaper then aftermarket exhaust; also unlike aftermarket exhaust, car still stays quiet from outside, it's inside cabin noise that is louder, good for keeping good relationships with neighbors yet hear that extra oumph when flooring :).
I'd say - worth deleting/plugging off if one has aftermarket catback of better tone and louder, but with 100% stock exhaust imho better leave it.
Which is best to you yourself can be easily found out. Just reuse cig-lighter plug cap from glovebox for plugging it off and decide for yourself after some driving, if you want it on or not. No money spent, easy/simply/quickly done, easy to revert. Also can be done temporary, eg. for less tiredness in long trips on autobahns for hours, even while keeping not plugged for generic daily driving. If one prefers by subjective feel during test how car/engine sounds with it plugged off in test drive, then one can go step further and remove soundtube alltogether (as mentioned above, for very slight weight gain and more & cleaner space under bonnet).

Sarah B: check what means "upgraded one". JBL? Some custom speaker replacement, eg. to those focals? Headunit replaced? Anything else? Or T&G2 in place of T&G of first generation .. T&G2 IIRC came .. hmm, don't remember exactly .. maybe since MY2015, or maybe since restyle MY2017 ones?
If my '99 corolla with stock stereo door speakers with only change being alpine mp3 headunit in place of stock tape player sounded MANY times better then stock twin audio multispeaker setup designed/made 15 years later .. that says something, lol :D. Luckily car makes up for it with much more driving fun.

It's not just headunit that sucks on twins, or rather it's not THE worst part from all that make up result of badly sounding audio.
Bad sounding speakers, lack of sound insulation, lack of amp or lack of own power from standalone stock headunit.
There are several options to make sound better, and changing headunit might be not the main priority. For basic budget audio enhancement i'd install focal 165toy speakers in doors and switch off sucky rear speakers. Step up - add also some sound insulation (though this can well fit in "base" package). Another step up, add also amp and sub. Another, replace all the other speakers too. If not the amp, then headunit to aftermarket one from leading vendors like sony/alpine/pioneer. Another step up, good well assembled set tailored to our cars (eg. OEM+ one, of amp, dsp wiith soundprofile tailored to headunit used (including stock), speakers upgrade, sub in boot). Another step up, good and expensive upgrade of anything at money-no-object budget at some big well known car audio tuning shop.
From all these i'd probably consider 165toy focals+some insulation, and OEM+ offering (it's oem+ audio US firm made set, not toyota optional JBL audio upgrade, which costs as much but sounds worse), or rather just first, as all "free money" goes with higher priority to track use wearables/performance & suspension mods with sucky audio lingering at low priority "nice to fix" but "i don't care enough" :).

VSC supposedly is much improved in MY2017 twins. Allowing higher slip angle prior engaging, and intervening in less abrupt manner then in older zenki twins.
In my eyes those old bmws have also another pro vs twins, if drifting is considered - wider max steering angle. When driving on ice tracks i found smaller steering angle (probably due wide boxer engine) during countersteer when drifting limiting sometimes.

Subaru. Toyota's only bumpers, audio headunit, front lights and fuel injection system. Even by VIN code it's assembled in Subaru's factory. It's possible that even toyota badges are made by subaru :D. Many of those faults can be found in other subarus aswell. Window scratches on frameless windows? Check. Rattling interior & especially rattling foldable rear seat U latches? Check. BUT! I still love my car despite all flaws for all the driving fun it provides, and all the somewhat close alternatives are worse as overall package, especially if one leaves price among evaluated properties. Possibly only MX5 would have been as good of alternative .. if i'd fit in it

Ouch. I hadn't even considered to check EU prices. They were so way cheaper in US shops with cost like $245 per wheel and such. Well, then looks like my suggestion too far out of stated budget.
Then how about Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2?

I'm always a bit sceptical about statements like that.  The Nissan 350Z has plenty more power, but has never sold in anything like the numbers that the GT86 has achieved.  There's a bit of discussion on that Jalopnik article (as there frequently is on Pistonheads) about what the enthusiast says they want, and what people actually buy.  A bunch of keyboard warriors saying "it needs more power" doesn't mean they'd actually buy it if it had more power.  The price would go up and people would compare it to the Type R, Focus RS, and Golf R, instead of comparing it to a Fiesta ST.  And they would probably say it was underpowered because it didn't have 300bhp.

Good bits for bucket seats - they have better side supports & usually weight less.
Cons - most of them are expensive, lack extras (such as heating or seating sensors for airbags), lack adjustment (and ease of adjustment if there is limited adjustment), limit visibility (especially with extra head protectors), limit ease of getting in rear for 2 door cars, way less comfortable to get in-out, may hamper proper working of stock safety belt and airbags (especially side ones). Also in some countries they might be non legal mod for car driven on public roads (mostly because not working well with stock safety mechanisms like airbags/belts and due lack of adjustment, which is also needed for safety mechanisms to work right).
Thus one has to choose according one's priorities. For example, if you track often and don't want to get bruises on knees anymore from pressing legs onto door/mid console while cornering hard, bucket seats are nice thing to have. Limited visibility might be worked around with not getting one with those head side supports. Lack of adjustment might matter less if you get seat that fits just right for you and you are the only one driving. Airbags can be switched off. Multipoint belts can be installed further better securing one in seat (but also more difficult to buckle/unbuckle for generic dailydriving).
But if you only daily drive .. or at most go to 2-5 track days per year at most and at easy pace on not too grippy tires .. imho best to stick with stock seats and enjoy their ease of generic use, and suffer through slight inconvenience at those rare track occasions
There is no seat option to get best of both without sacrificing something and compromising nothing. And imho not worth finding some half-assed interim compromise of jack-of-all-trades-master-of-none type.