wheels, will they fit?

[Daninplymouth 61]

Hi

Does any one know if an ET35 9" wheel will fit on standard suspension, car is completely stock 2017.

i think i read that a 9.5 wide would hit the suspension strut but not sure if the 9" will clear it and also not sure if that only applied to lowered cars

thanks

dan

[Deacon 1357]

3 minutes ago, Daninplymouth said:

Hi

Does any one know if an ET35 9" wheel will fit on standard suspension, car is completely stock 2017.

i think i read that a 9.5 wide would hit the suspension strut but not sure if the 9" will clear it and also not sure if that only applied to lowered cars

thanks

dan

I'd doubt they'll fit on standard suspension and would almost certainly stick out of the arch with no way of adjusting camber. On standard suspension they'd probably look pretty awful too

[KevinA 695]

I ran 9.5 et35 on oem suspension for a while, they do come out past the arches though. I have in the garage a set of 9x18 et35 if you want to try one. Obviously depends where you are based.

[McDude 40]

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7535 Every single option thought out and more often than not someone has done it before. 9" rims in either 17" or 18" diameters have been done and there are links to 'proven fitment' for both.

also: https://www.willtheyfit.com/ will let you know how much more poke/suck etc. your chosen wheel will give.

[Daninplymouth 61]

thanks i think i will give them a miss.

i understand about poke and the offset i know they will physically fit but the calculators wont tell you if they will hit the struts

[Lucas 244]

Fits, I run 18x9 ET33 on OEM style shocks from Cusco and only the front wheels were sticking out, not by loads.. you can sort it out with camber bolts  

I can show you some pics if you want

[Lucas 244]

18x9 ET33 poke. Doesn't look awful because of the stretched 225 tyre, but I've installed camber bolts and the wheels are now flush. Also, 9J ET33 are perfect flush fitment on the rear. No mods required

[Daninplymouth 61]

Just seen another set I like they are 8.5 ET38.

These would sit 3mm further out from the strut if I’m right compared to 9” ET35? And sit about 9mm further inside the arches

woukd this extra small clearance be enough do you think on day to day driving as I don’t want to change to

coilovers yet

thanks 

[mattt 29]

I know this is possibly a stupid question: but if the wheel is flush with, or protrudes from, the wheel arch... cant the wheel hit the wheel arch if you drive over a big pothole? Or is this prevented by the bump-stops on the suspension? 

[Lmc 27]

2 hours ago, mattt said:

I know this is possibly a stupid question: but if the wheel is flush with, or protrudes from, the wheel arch... cant the wheel hit the wheel arch if you drive over a big pothole? Or is this prevented by the bump-stops on the suspension? 

The wheels camber inwards as they go up  therefore given you the clearance to not hit your arches.

That said depending on what et you go for you may need to roll your arches flat.

[mattt 29]

The wheels camber inwards as they go up  therefore given you the clearance to not hit your arches.
That said depending on what et you go for you may need to roll your arches flat.

Ah thanks that makes sense

I've been looking at some alloys I like in an 8" width but they come in ET35 which would mean a little bit of poke beyond the arch. Just trying to understand if there are any other considerations I will need.

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[Deacon 1357]

2 hours ago, mattt said:

Ah thanks that makes sense

I've been looking at some alloys I like in an 8" width but they come in ET35 which would mean a little bit of poke beyond the arch. Just trying to understand if there are any other considerations I will need.

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I run 18x8 et35. There is no poke

[mattt 29]

Oh cool! I was just going off of what the ft86 forum post said. I'm planning on lowering 20mm using racecomp yellows. Do I need to consider anything else i.e. items to adjust camber? Thanks for being patient with my newbie knowledge

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[Church 209]

Due lowering, camber will increase by some 0.5-1degree naturally due geometry of suspension. If you are ok with resulting camber you can just ask alignment shop to dial in toe as needed. If you want more even, or back to stock alignment even on lowered car, or some specific alignment for specific uses (eg. for track), it's probable that you will need to adjust camber.

There is no camber adjustment stock on twins, only for toe.

Cheapest way to add it for front is camberbolts. In rear - aftermarket adjustable rear lower control arms (cheapest are stock-like clones like SPC/Eibach/Whiteline) (well, theoretically rear camber bushings are of cheaper price, but they are PITA to adjust and resulting longer adjustment time in shop will eat saving).

[mattt 29]

Due lowering, camber will increase by some 0.5-1degree naturally due geometry of suspension. If you are ok with resulting camber you can just ask alignment shop to dial in toe as needed. If you want more even, or back to stock alignment even on lowered car, or some specific alignment for specific uses (eg. for track), it's probable that you will need to adjust camber.
There is no camber adjustment stock on twins, only for toe.
Cheapest way to add it for front is camberbolts. In rear - aftermarket adjustable rear lower control arms (cheapest are stock-like clones like SPC/Eibach/Whiteline) (well, theoretically rear camber bushings are of cheaper price, but they are PITA to adjust and resulting longer adjustment time in shop will eat saving).

By increase do you mean a more positive camber, or more negative?

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[Church 209]

Increase in value. More negative that is (IIRC OE camber front was 0, and rear -1.2). Think what happens when tire is pushed up till end. It doesn't go vertically up keeping it's orientation, rather it rotates/pivots around center of lower center arm inside mounts/bushings, with top of wheel going up and to car centerline. Hence some negative camber increase when lowering.

[mattt 29]

Increase in value. More negative that is (IIRC OE camber front was 0, and rear -1.2). Think what happens when tire is pushed up till end. It doesn't go vertically up keeping it's orientation, rather it rotates/pivots around center of lower center arm inside mounts/bushings, with top of wheel going up and to car centerline. Hence some negative camber increase when lowering.

Thanks Church. So without using camber bolts etc, lowering the car by ~20mm will result in cambers of about -0.5 to -1.0 front and -1.7 to -2.2 rear if I'm understanding that correctly.

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[Church 209]

Maybe less then that. Maybe up to 0.5. Amount may also change due different suspension front and rear, with mcpherson front, multilink rear. I was never considering lowering (at some point rather opposite), so don't take my worlds on range/value as given as i didn't pay much attention to what people had in configuration i never intend to use. Still, if one goes for suspension changes for some performance/handling change/upgrade, i'd rather get also camberbolts (cheap) and rear lca-s (less cheap, but not killing sum). I love to have suspension alignment exactly how i want it and even on both sides at that unlike stock with different grip bias to my liking and very uneven sometimes even in new cars.

[Rich 378]

Mine is lowered 15-20 mm and the rear camber is close to -2°, front is similar but I have adjustable top mounts there.

Front camber with lowering alone is tricky as it's MacPherson strut so while you will get a bit of negative camber as you lower it, it can actually go positive if you get it low enough, or if you corner hard on a lowered car. The double wishbone rear (it's not multilink Church) is more predictable and just gains negative camber with lowering and compression.

[Lucas 244]

My rear camber dropped to even -1.5° with 25mm Springs. Front wasn't affected at all, I had to add negative camber with camber bolts.

[mattt 29]

My rear camber dropped to even -1.5° with 25mm Springs. Front wasn't affected at all, I had to add negative camber with camber bolts.

Fascinating that it's not very predictable between cars even with the same amount of drop. Why would that be?

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[Lauren 2259]

4 minutes ago, mattt said:

Fascinating that it's not very predictable between cars even with the same amount of drop. Why would that be?

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It's tolerance and variance. Suspension geometry can change a lot even with very small differences.

[Lucas 244]

1 hour ago, mattt said:

Fascinating that it's not very predictable between cars even with the same amount of drop. Why would that be?

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Spring rates, current state of your suspension, geometry like Lauren says.. it depends

[MartinT 514]

My 17x8 ET35 with 225 tyres have no poke. They are as near as dammit flush.

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[mattt 29]

My 17x8 ET35 with 225 tyres have no poke. They are as near as dammit flush.

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Looks great!

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