Lauren 2259 Report post Posted October 26, 2014 Stag of course, amazing engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted October 26, 2014 In all seriousness, I would actually do a transplant, but as the FA20 is such a new engine,and I have one, I think the development will be fun. I can get cheap HP from a big V8, or expensive power from a six pot screamer, but none will be as light or low as my little boxer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DaveB 20 Report post Posted October 26, 2014 Land cruiser diesel. Too leftfield? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted October 26, 2014 Isuzu trooper 2.8 tdi. Hell of an engine!! I fitted one to a Defender once. Talk about transformation!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted November 3, 2014 Hi all, As some of you will already be aware, I want to make a new beam for the front of my '86, as I don't like the foam visible behind the grille. I want to use a piece of mesh for my grille and have a great big intercooler in there. Here's the stock view with no grille... I want this look... So.. how will I get there? I need to replace this beam... Which, when covered with the foam bumper looks like this... So.. I made this bar from 44.5 x 2.5mm wall annealed CDS Tubing... With the foam fitted... I now need to get on with making up the flat panel to support the upper dam and locations to clip the washer tubes to. Then, I need to find an insurance company who will cover me with this mod?? If not, I've wasted a lot of time and effort!! :angry: What do you think?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted November 3, 2014 I think exactly what you think, it would certainly look great but will it be worth the time and effort after finding an insurance company who will probably charge you more for the advantage of having what you want. In my opinion, it's not worth it, but i'm a lazy bugger when it comes to tinkering with my car. However, good luck with your adventure, i'll be watching it closely Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sideways? 33 Report post Posted November 3, 2014 I'm really confused, the foam is the same and in the same place, surely it will still be visible when the bumper is replaced...?? Why not just paint the foam or cut it away using the bumper as a template...???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted November 3, 2014 No, the foam is not in the same place, it is higher. Look at it compared to the headlight mounting. Cutting the foam achieves nothing and should still be declared to the insurance. If you look closely at the first two pics, you'll notice the foam sitting behind the number plate mounting holes. Keeping it as original as possible will help with the insurance in my opinion. I'm moving the whole lot up to get a bigger intercooler than the standard kits come with. I watched a video clip on YouTube, about fitting the GReddy Turbo kit, with it you have to cut the centre section out of the original steel bumper. I think my solution is a more substantial, sensible approach.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tweedbean 151 Report post Posted November 7, 2014 Interesting build you have going on here, I look forward to the progress as I am currently weighing up switching from a heavily modified mini to a GT86 and going FI with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee 82 Report post Posted November 7, 2014 Interesting build you have going on here, I look forward to the progress as I am currently weighing up switching from a heavily modified mini to a GT86 and going FI with it. Go for it (Floof) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tweedbean 151 Report post Posted November 7, 2014 Go for it (Floof) Hi Lee, good to see a familiar name. Just reading through the start of your project thread, I now have someone to badger about GT86 vs Mini questions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sideways? 33 Report post Posted November 7, 2014 Back on with the foam, my understanding is that it is there as part of the deformable crash structure and looking at the original configuration it is designed to work in harmony with the front chassis rails. In my opinion if you move it you dramatically change the crash dynamics, and since you've used a walloping bit of tube where there was only a flimsy bit of pressed steel, before you might as well not bother with the foam - since really it is not the amount of modification that is important to the function of the foam, it is the fact it has been changed at all... What I'm saying is, if you don't need the foam to mount something else on (i.e. does it provide support to the bumper??), you might as well remove it completely and save yourself the hassle, since changing it or removing it are the same in terms of insurance... Of course, I'm possibly being rather generous to the insurance company that they'll have the same understanding of the crash structure and dynamics as I have explained above but you never know... Perhaps it would be best to ask some insurers first before going any further???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted November 7, 2014 As much as I respect your comments, I disagree. The foam will absorb low speed impacts and protect the plastic over bumper. Without it the bumper would more than likely split and possibly cut a pedestrian? What does surprise me is that the stock car design has the foam around 60mm away from the extreme front of the bumper? The walloping but of steel you mention is actually annealed and formed to the same shape as the original beam. I do not feel it is any stronger than the stock beam. It may even be slightly weaker as it has much less load affected area at the end of the chassis legs. I have spoken to insurance companies about it and am awaiting replies. Prestige have already said they are not interested as they feel it would cause more damage to a third party vehicle than the standard beam. I am currently talking to them about having no beam at all, or preferably modding the stock beam to give the open snout look? Did you know the Greddy turbo kit involves cutting out the centre section of the beam to get their inter cooler in? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sideways? 33 Report post Posted November 7, 2014 Right, I agree about supporting the bumper from splits at low speed, I think I looked too quickly at the original beam and thought it was just a single sheet of pressed steel rather than a 3d beam.... I've not had any of this apart so I'm just going off the photos... Further to that, I think not having a beam between the front chassis legs (open snout?) is a bad idea since they need to be tied together somehow... I didn't realise the other turbo kit required a chop, and that leads me to my final question - do you need such a big intercooler!?!? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted November 7, 2014 Do I need an inter cooler that size? OHYES!! Cooler charge means safer boost and more power. It looks like Adrian Flux has decided to quote me. I'll let you know soon!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sideways? 33 Report post Posted November 7, 2014 Hehehe! I knew that would be your answer! Sounds like good progress though, will be interesting to see what they come back with...! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted November 24, 2014 So, moving along with my project, we have today removed the engine. I attended my Step dads funeral today and when I got back to the house, I decided that I should get into the Garage and get stuck back into my '86. Here are some pics of the progress.. note the cardboard preventing scratches on the inner wings..And, out we come!!Now I uust need to decide if I just fit the Fidanza flywheel and helix clutch, or strip it down for some trick pistons and rods??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted December 1, 2014 So, the engine is all stripped down now and I'm looking to buy some decent Rods, Bearings and Pistons.I thought I'd share with you all some images of what I found in my engine. This is all pretty disappointing if I'm honest.. I've stripped 50000 milers in better condition than this. My engine has covered an almighty 150 miles, all below 4000rpm I might add..This is No3 Big end bearing...Notice where debris has got embedded into the bearing surface... nice!! Luckily, the crank is nitride/tuftrided so is very hard and as a result, unmarked. I might add, all the mains are fine..Another big shock was found in the cooling system. I drained the coolant into a brand new orange bucket from B+Q, so I could see if there was anything dodgy in it as I want to keep it to give to you guys or re-use. Anyway, I noticed some black grit like substance in the bottom of the bucket and thou8ght it was casting sand, but then realised that all the casings look as if they're die cast?When I stripped the head off the no2 bank my eyes nearly popped out!!Look at this....I can only assume it's a type of rad sealant used by the factory/dealer "in case" there's a leak? A friend of mine is also stripping his GT86 and has found the same in his block?Here is the gunge removed, laid out on a Chinese takeaway lid to give an idea of the size of the "lump"...Perhaps someone with some good inside knowledge can shed some light on this.. it's really not good in this day and age now is it?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nikndel 509 Report post Posted December 1, 2014 interesting images we have all heard of GT86 ebola anyone heard of any bearing or oil related problems? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted December 1, 2014 That does suprise me and you say you've only covered 150 miles? Wonder what mine is like at 51000miles? Also interesting to see all that gunk in the waterways, again not what I'd expect really. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted December 1, 2014 That does suprise me and you say you've only covered 150 miles? Wonder what mine is like at 51000miles? Also interesting to see all that gunk in the waterways, again not what I'd expect really.I agree Lauren, I'd love to know what it is??As for the bearing, it's almost guaranteed that a piece of debris got left in the crank/block/rod as all the other bearings are "OK". They've all made contact with the crank, yet the mains are fine? The Crank in these engines is Nitrided or Tuftrided, so it is hard as nails. I once built a Lancia Twin Cam and had the crank Nitrided. It was bullet proof on the journals. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted December 1, 2014 interesting images we have all heard of GT86 ebola anyone heard of any bearing or oil related problems?I assume GT86 Ebola is issues with the Cam timing?All I can say is that there are two of these engines in a 2 mile radius currently stripped that I have seen and touched. They both have this "stuff" in the water jacket and they both had debris related issues with the bearings.Subaru's cleanliness leaves something to be desired I think?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nikndel 509 Report post Posted December 1, 2014 I assume GT86 Ebola is issues with the Cam timing?All I can say is that there are two of these engines in a 2 mile radius currently stripped that I have seen and touched. They both have this "stuff" in the water jacket and they both had debris related issues with the bearings.Subaru's cleanliness leaves something to be desired I think??yes it is or so I am lead to belive Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted December 1, 2014 Mines still going strong at 40k miles. So maybe these things aren't really problems? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted December 2, 2014 Mines still going strong at 40k miles. So maybe these things aren't really problems?Rest assured Jay, metallic debris in any bearings is a problem. With no oil pressure gauge and a pressure switch that operates at something like 4 psi, the standard car probably won't tell you there's a problem until it's too late?I can't say what that bearing would look like after 50k miles, it would probably be OK, but it's not what one expects in this day and age on a brand new car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites