Keethos 842 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 So all I'm hearing is you tweaking your settings to make it go round corners faster......which isn't like you Lauren, I'd have expected you to start tweaking your settings to make the car go round corners sides more How different would the settings be for this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted April 14, 2014 Stiffer settings on the rear particularly for more sideways action I would think, though I dare say it'd drift okay in my usual mode as it goes pretty stiff when you load it up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Special K 442 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Agreed Lauren - we need a technical trackday to really get to grips with the system, the roads are just not the place to fiddle with setups... Pitman - you up for a 'techy' day? Donington mebbe? At least they've got a decently high DB rating... so you're not likely to get banned.... Spec K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Donington is a good idea. Great track. I've also noted that I prefer the Linear settings for G force running with my custom settings in Arrange mode for speed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Special K 442 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Hmmm. . . got me thinking. . . It hurts! Spec K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Agreed Lauren - we need a technical trackday to really get to grips with the system, the roads are just not the place to fiddle with setups... Pitman - you up for a 'techy' day? Donington mebbe? At least they've got a decently high DB rating... so you're not likely to get banned.... Spec K Keith, I am definitely up for a 'techy' day, especially at Donnington - never driven it, but it is without doubt my all time favourite track Hopefully, my car is civilised now noise level wise! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Special K 442 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Dave - how's it going? Are you happy with it? Apart from TSS I've got no weekends away planned - Lauren, I know you've got excursions on the horizon and Dave, you've got overseas work in the pipeline. What's a decent time-slot to look for a Donington date? Spec K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 May- July I would say for Donny. Could do with a month to recover from costs this month! I've also just changed my G-force settings to the more aggressive map on the G2* and G*2. Will see what it's like in the morning! Having tweaked my speed settings in Arrange mode, I'm quite happy with them now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Dave - how's it going? Are you happy with it? Apart from TSS I've got no weekends away planned - Lauren, I know you've got excursions on the horizon and Dave, you've got overseas work in the pipeline. What's a decent time-slot to look for a Donington date? Spec K Love it so far, Keith, although to be honest I haven't had much chance to play with them. I only picked up my car from Fensport late on Friday evening when I got back from the Netherlands, and then I had to 'supervise' my son fitting my AP Racing brakes on Saturday, and also had some carbon bits and TOMS tail lights to fit to my car. Hopefully I will have a chance to play this weekend As far as Donnington is concerned, realistically, apart from the Tuesday to Friday immediately after BHP, when I am off, I unfortunately will only be able to make a weekend for the foreseeable future Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 23, 2014 Some new settings I'm trying out. Note this is supposed to be a good all round road setup for general driving with the idea being it's full soft below 20km/h for speed humps and bad surfaces and then it stiffens proportionately. Note that the increases in lateral G are more than G2 stock settings. I haven't messed with longitudinal G, I just use G2 at the moment. Speed and lateral G have been changed though. Will be interesting to see how it pans out. The idea was for it to be comfortable when not trying that hard and then it stiffens up significantly when you push on and load up the G force. We'll see. NB: now corrected to show cumulative speed increase to stiffness. 1 Ridowh reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 Keith, Dave. I was speaking to Rob last night and he said that you guys were having problems on the handling circuit as it was deemed that your suspension was too stiff. Rob mentioned that they said that Dave's was difficult on the limit was it was skipping over bumps on the rear I can only presume. I would just be interested to hear your thoughts on this and perhaps comments the instructors made. I'm guessing the feeling was the rear was too stiff. In terms of your setting have you tried running the rear proportionately softer? I am currently running the same front and rear, it does mean the rear is quite stiff and it will oversteer easily, though I admit, I like that as there is better control, but it is more edgy. I feel like geting the car to handle well is not a problem, but I am still playing with it, trying to get the best ride quality and damping compromise. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark@Abbey M/S 235 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 Dave I hope won't mind me giving my feedback. Daves car was not riding the bumps well at all locking front wheels under breaking, bobbling over the bumps I feel this is due to springs maybe too hard and too much rebound damping. The rear of the car I feel is to low not enough rake in the set up and again it looks from watching the car is overly stiff on both spring rate and too much rebound damping which causes the suspension to jack down. I feel you need to turn of the speed/G loading compensation and get a good set up before playing with the other settings. A stock car handles so well on the handling circuit @ Millbrook even with added power/torque. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 Interesting. Dave is running 6kg front 6kg rear. I'm running 5kg front and 6kg rear. Good idea about really just trying it static at various settings to build up a feel for it. I'll have a go at that, see what I think. I think that with my slightly softer springs, it seems alright in respect of cornering and braking at the front end. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 It's why i wanted to opt for no Active pro straight away, play with the static first, see what works. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 Exactly as described by Mark - thank you. You just left out the bobble bit At the CAT training, once I had finished my gymkhana run in the Caterham (nothing like being the guinea pig and having to go first), Colin Hoad, the chief instructor for CAT took my car out onto the handling course to give it a quick evaluation. Damping definitely too hard - the way he was analysing it with a running commentary whilst going round at (to me, anyway) a totally mind blowing speed was unbelievable. Anyway, Keith and I have booked a half day with him at the end of July for him to do a full evaluation, and help sort it out. I am trying to arrange for Yukiko from Tein to join us for the morning, so she can make the adjustments as per Colin's advice. Colin is recognised as being the leading authority on vehicle dynamics in the country, so it will be money well spent. He didn't comment about the spring rates or roll bars, just the damping. The beauty of the Teins, is that the full ability is there to optimise them by an expert like Colin. Colin's knowledge coupled with the full facilities of Millbrook which he has at his disposal should result in us being able to get a really good set up for our cars, which Tein can then take and use as the base settings for the kits going forward. This will hopefully give us mere mortals (unlike the driving goddesses we have in the club - Lauren and now Faith with her recognition as being the driver of the day at the CAT training) the best settings to get the cars to the same balance as stock, just at a far higher level. Dave Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted June 2, 2014 It's why i wanted to opt for no Active pro straight away, play with the static first, see what works. Rob, if you can afford it, may as well get the active pro as you can change static setups in the car accurately and quickly. POP to put it in manual mode. That's interesting Dave. I am going to try running in various static settings for the moment, see if I can for the fun of it find an optimal road setting and then work it from there. I would love to come down in July for this, Dave, but the end of July will coincide with me being in Japan. If you could let me know dates costs, though that would be useful just in case you do do it say the first week in August and I might be able to make it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted June 2, 2014 True Lauren, very true. I can afford it, but i am trying to save also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Special K 442 Report post Posted June 2, 2014 Lauren - feedback from Colin on my car was that the EDFC settings I am using are good. I used my road settings, not track settings. However, I am getting a trace of bump steer which he analysed as too stiff rebound settings. As you know, you and Dave have the 'softer' valves, as per Adrian's recommendation - mine is as per original spec. Also, Dave was unsure whether both of yours were changed all round or just the rears. Colin suggested that, if I changed just the rears I would in all likelihood increase the understeer tendency, so I am likely to soften all four corners. As Dave says we will be looking more at this when we return to Millbrook in July - hopefully with Yukiko attending, it's only 20-odd minutes for her base. Spec K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted June 2, 2014 That's reassuring to know. So no issues with spring rates then? Keith, Dave and I have 20% increase on rebound on the rears (fronts not touched). So it's not softer, it's harder. Bump steer is of course the front end, so ours are the same as your's. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark@Abbey M/S 235 Report post Posted June 2, 2014 I think the springs are too stiff on Keith's/Dave's personally. Even a stock car feels stiff on the handling circuit @ Millbrook. These are light cars and with good damping control the car will run soft springs with good control. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted June 2, 2014 Well maybe we need to revisit the spring rates. Perhaps I'm slightly better off running the 5/6kg setup that I do. Or do we need to go softer than that? But I do remember Yukiko saying something about the dampers being designed to run 7/7kg springs which is what the Tein Street Flex would ship with ordinarily. Is there a point I wonder where softer springs end up being over damped given the range of the dampers in regard to bump and rebound? Although in saying that, it's not a mega job for Tein UK to revalve them and they could do that. Lots of food for thought here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridowh 8 Report post Posted August 23, 2020 Hello guys and gals, I know it’s been a while since this excellent thread last received a comment. I’ve just fitted Flex As and am about to fit the EDFC Active Pro with GPS sensor too. I was just wondering whether any kind soul can point me (ideally with pics, or video if available) to where the most convenient place to pick up the 12V accessory power feed, and negative points too, in the front and back of the car for the attachment of the EDFC power filter unit, and the front and rear motor controllers. I’ve seen a lot of vids and textual explains of how to fit EDFC but haven’t yet spotted how the wiring has been done. Really looking forward to meeting you at an upcoming meet Lauren, would be really interested to hear about all the things you’ve done to your car. Many thanks 😊 Richard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted August 24, 2020 Hi Richard. It needs to be a feed when the ignition is on. RRG Macclesfield fitted mine, so I don't know what they used in that respect. My TEIN setup with EDFC Active Pro has been on my car for 130,000 miles and 6.5 years now! It still works faultlessly and I've never had an issue with is. I expect the next national meet is going to be Japfest Silverstone next May. I will have my new car by then, but my fiance should be there in the GT. 1 Ridowh reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke 193 Report post Posted August 24, 2020 Depending on where you mount the controller you would probably be best taking a power and ignition feed off the back of the stereo. You’ll also find A few earthing points behind there as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 458 Report post Posted August 24, 2020 Rear driver unit - mine is placed passenger side in the rear quarter. There'll be an easy tap in point there as the cabling for the lights/boot run down that side. You then just route the cable to the drivers side motor along the back of the rear seats and back to the motor. Front driver unit - mine is placed behind/above the glove box, again, plenty of places you could tap into because of the stereo wiring etc. Controller is generally placed over the passenger air bag light below the stereo so you can pick up a power source from the stereo again. Earthing points - plenty behind the stereo, just pop an eye connector on and re-use an existing bolt. For the rear you can use one of the light nuts, just file some paint off so you get a proper contact to the body panel. Same as Lauren though, RRG in Macc fitted mine as I didn't fancy working out how to route all the cabling at the time I fitted but I'd probably do it myself now as it's not a difficult job really. When you do the motors, just remember they are different thread sizes front/rear... don't be an idiot and keep trying the wrong size like I did Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
