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MartinT

Problem With Heat Wrap

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I had to pull over today after a smell of burning and other drivers tooting at me because of smoke coming out the back. Lifted the bonnet to see the smoke coming from the top hose silver wrap which was touching the TD exhaust. I did what I could, twisting the silver wrap on the hose to present a new section and driving home slowly so as not to heat up the exhaust too much. Let the car cool down and went out an hour ago to see why it happened.

Looks like the exhaust and top coolant hose are so close that they rubbed together over the last few months, causing the heat wrap on the exhaust to wear away completely, leaving a bald patch of bare exhaust almost touching the top pipe. Not good!

I've loosened the top hose clips and twisted it slightly to try to get a gap between the two pipes. I've also ordered some exhaust heat wrap on eBay for delivery tomorrow. I've just got to get the car to work in the morning and do the repair at lunchtime.

Has anyone else had this? Any suggestions on what to do other than the obvious re-wrapping the exhaust close to the top hose?

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I have the same setup but mine is not touching and there is no degradation of the coolant hose. Mine have been on for 20K miles +. I don't have any wrap on my coolant hose. Seems odd that yours is touching. 

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I'll take a picture tomorrow.  The clearance between coolant hose and exhaust pipe is only a few mm and the bulky wraps around both effectively then touch each other.

Perhaps @Mike@TD.co.uk could comment?

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That's my thinking.  It was always close, but the engine moving has worn the heat wrap right through over time.  Yes, mine is UEL.

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These manifolds also sit really close to the crankshaft pulley, which I'm not entirely comfortable with, but I think you have to be willing to accept some compromises when modifying cars.

Matt.

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Just a thought @MartinT, if you rotated the coolant hose through 180 degrees so that the bend is going the other way, would that give you any more clearance?

*EDIT* Just re-read your post and seen that you've already done that.

Matt.

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8 hours ago, Fenhopper said:

These manifolds also sit really close to the crankshaft pulley

Very close, I can't believe the small clearance!

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1 hour ago, Mike said:

Had a look this morning, probably got about an inch gap on mine.

Mine is similar. They all run close the crankshaft pulley, though this isn't  a problem as such. 

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My clearance is virtually zero.  You can see the discolouration from the burning.  Hopefully the heat wrap will arrive later and I can fix it before driving home.

45783813895_9f74aca226_o.jpg

Here is the crank pulley clearance.  Pretty damned close!

46646374922_bd8cdf9f95_o.jpg

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3 hours ago, MartinT said:

Very close, I can't believe the small clearance!

This is also a risk, if you get a bit of a frontal impact. the manifold can bend and impact the pulleys and make it a much more expensive repair than what it would be. Design wise Ace (not up and over) like design does have an advantage and also from a engine bay heat management perspective. 

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4 minutes ago, Andrew Smith said:

Can you rotate the top hose anticlockwise by a few degrees? Might give you a bit more room

I'm going to try that when I do the fix later on.

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3 minutes ago, MartinT said:

Subtle changes in model year, maybe?  Or else the engine mount variations mentioned above.

Could also be slight differences in the exhausts themselves as they are effectively handmade? 

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33 minutes ago, MartinT said:

Subtle changes in model year, maybe?  Or else the engine mount variations mentioned above.

No, there is no difference. It will be the slight changes in tolerance from a manifold that though made using a jig will have some variance at JP Exhausts where they make them. 

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40 minutes ago, Lauren said:

No, there is no difference. It will be the slight changes in tolerance from a manifold that though made using a jig will have some variance at JP Exhausts where they make them. 

The manifolds and exhausts are no longer made at JP. They are now made in house at TD.

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