james_ly

Why have you decided to replace? Do you have planned particular usage that stock doesn't do well? Done right, upgrade to BBK is not cheap, without actual need (if for example you only daily drive yours) you won't experience pros of BBK (mostly higher heat capacity/better cooling rate) but will have to suffice cons (except obvious spending a lot of money for naught, also reduced compatible wheel selection, sometimes requiring buying new wheels and tires, possibly narrower compatible pads selection, possibly less resilency for corrosion issues if driven throughout winter with roadsalt and it's race caliper w/o dustboots & dual-piece rotors, sometimes extra noise issues). Done wrong (where i write off retrofitting used calipers from other cars with different layout/weight distribution/master cylinder ratios, considering only mechanical fitment and cheapness) may make braking even worse, introducing extra instability under heavy braking or making longer braking distances, depending to which direction such brake swap shifts front-rear brake bias.
In most cases for daily driving stock brakes are best choice. One already has them "for free", they are more then sufficient for most uses except long sessions on track, have much better wheel clearance allowing fitting most wheels including downsized ones, there are plenty of different pads for any taste available, and they are certainly MOT legal (for example here in LV legally most BBKs won't let pass MOT), and manufacturer engineers have spent lot of time to get brake bias fit best for this particular car.
Not sure why you need to know piston size/master cylinder size and other data for BBK upgrade. One just should choose BBK designed for these car models by reputable vendor that should dial with keeping brake bias close to stock, then all you have to care for, caliper wheel clearance. For later on BBK manufacturer sites usually there are downloadable brake fitment templates, which one can print out, glue on carton, cut out and check with own wheels or ones that planning to buy, if they clear particular BBK. Or if vendor lists wheels of checked clearance, or if such info on particular kit can be found in forums.
Who are "they"? There are several manufacturers/vendors making/selling BBKs for twins, often even several BBK models. There are plenty aftermarket parts shops that sell parts online. Yes, some BBKs are front-only and that's OK, if they are designed to work with stock rear brakes & retain brake bias (as fronts do most braking, and in this fashion one can reduce upgrade costs). Some upgrade both fronts and rears. There are many kits available for twins.

I’m running 16x7 fox racing wheels that are 3kg lighter than the stock wheel and tyre setup.
Using a 205/55R16 Dunlop winter sports. 
I think the car does ride better over the bumps and the unavoidable pot holes. The steering has lost a little of its initial turn in but once you get used to it the car feels more progressive from understeer to oversteer. 

What I always say, is the low grip tyres is kind of the point of the car?

Well, i'm maybe using it a bit different context, as main meaning, which can be for example googled, as "tendency of wheels to follow contours in the surface upon which it runs".
I'm using more with meaning like - "car has way too much grip for it's capabilities" / "over-tyred" / "car can be driven without care floored everywhere, not dropping speed anywhere" / "always having more grip then needed, needing intentional very stupid driver inputs to overcome grip/traction". In exaggerated fashion - "mini on formula track slicks", car drives like tram on rails no matter what you do.
Just that many may like for giggles some playfulness here and there, especially if those some tire chirps here and there, or small extra rear rotations, or some intentional tire spins do happen at still slow/legal speeds, and may miss with more grippier tires. With later - of course one can still loose grip .. subjective fun aside, problem being, the more grip tire has, that loosing grip now will happen eg. at higher speeds, in more abrupt manner, with less reaction time to correct.
Of course i've seen also line of thought - those "prius" primacies have too little grip, i need to install grippy tires, now car drives "as it should come from factory" .. but from my experiences, when i still had primacies (for around 10-15K daily driven miles and then 4 trackdays, to "finish them off" :)), i still could drive on average a bit faster then (admittedly heavier or less powerful family) cars i drove before (if average speed in same roundabout counts), and yes, car will loose grip/traction when eg. giving gas mid turn, or when going in some turn faster then tire grip allows .. but that doesn't mean that tires are bad, that doesn't mean that right way to "fix" is not to adjust own driver inputs to not mindlessly push everywhere but adding in that much tire grip for it to be more then own wrong inputs may overcome. IIRC twins with stock primacy hp tires pulled 0.89 g on skidpad. I'm not willing to classify that as "bad tires", and one can drive with them without any grip/traction loss aswell .. imho there is misimpression that normal cars have more grip comes from them usually having softer suspension>more roll, which subjectively tells driver to ease off, while twins roll less, thus one guiding by subjective feel/habbits push more .. till grip loss, and then labels these tires as gripless. As to mention that they do bad in cold & wet .. well, they are not winter nor all-season tires. So even if UK winters are relatively warm and snow-less, i'd simply change to all-seasons from mid-autumn to mid-spring. When i drive in rain, i simply push less, drive slower/more careful - it's common sense to do so on other cars, why it should be wrong to do same on these cars/on primacy tires? It's driver duty to drive within car capabilities/available grip/road specifics, adjusting oneself, not requesting that only right way is to mod car to enable not minding how one drives. Yes, for example mentioned PS4 have fenomenal wet grip, to level that it surprised me, remembering track day soon after fitting them, where speed/laptime didn't drop that much in morning when track was still wet, yes, primacies grip less .. but that change is not required, and primacies are usuable, and there are good bits too in having less grip like on Chris Harris video, where he changed all four tires to space-saver donuts on AMG merc and took around track .
So imho there is nothing wrong when buying twin to drive it on those stock primacies and they are fine for learning/familiarizing with car .. just that i wouldn't get them as next set because of price and because trackdays joined my hobby list

Enjoying the videos, they remind me of the DedicationBlog gt86 build vlogs 👍

Wow, 8mpg on track has to hurt! My MR2 does15mpg on track, maybe the 86 won't be replacing it for track duties.

Thanks for the offer but I’m not that desperate for the space.

Isn't it the entire point of the car?

Isn't it the entire point of the car?

Nice review! Not really my kind of car, but great to see Toyota bringing more sports cars, just need a new MR2 now.

Not in the UK/Europe, we only got cosmetic changes.
 
@Lussoman 33.2mpg is the new figure based on the WLTP test cycle - the older (NEDC) cycle that gives three figures was not representative of real-world driving and manufacturers were designing their cars to perform well on the test but getting nowhere near the claimed figures on the road.
No idea why Auto Trader have different figures.  Toyota did make some minor tweaks for the MY16 - the last pre-facelift year - to comply with the Euro 6 emissions standard, so I wonder if it was something around that time that could have caused a change.

Have a look here:-
 

Traded in my Porsche Boxster 986 last week, loving the 86 so far :)